Jump to content

Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
 Share

Recommended Posts

Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/588-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Roadside Assistance Suggestions
rpasetto
loose mirror glass
eddie4ne
loose mirror glass
seadoo200hp
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
ABS light came on
seadoo200hp
Roadside Assistance Suggestions
eddie4ne
Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Dr4Film
So far , so good
Dave Pumphrey
TDS fuel card
Ivylog
2215 fault code
jacwjames
ABS light came on
Mike in Va
ABS light came on
Ivylog
ABS light came on
jacwjames
loose mirror glass
OhReally
The Trip from Hell
RoadTripper2084
Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Dr4Film
ABS light came on
RoadTripper2084
Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Bill R
Sharp Microwave being replaced
Steven P
The Trip from Hell
just_john1
The Trip from Hell
RoadTripper2084
The Trip from Hell
just_john1
2215 fault code
BradHend
ABS light came on
Ivan K
ABS light came on
RoadTripper2084
2215 fault code
Flyinhy
TDS fuel card
Steve P
TDS fuel card
Gary M
Beltline Trim
RBRODDER
TDS fuel card
FishAR
2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
tomevansfl

New Posts

2005 Signature passenger front HWH X-Slide chain replacement
amphi_sc

Curiosity got me so I pulled the curtain back.... Following this thread as it appears I have found a broken roller.  Is the chain you ordered a AP32669 (RAP91695)?  (My Front X arm is a AP27708, Probably same as yours.)  I don't have a malfunction yet, but only a matter of time I'm sure.

Looks to me like bring slide in 3/4, loosen cylinder adjustment bolt so can take out the chain attachment bolt in the arm.  Pull chain down then rotate cylinder out slightly and remove two pins (space may be difficult...snap rings?) and reverse procedure. Hopefully don't have to remove the hydraulic lines as I think I have a little slack there.

2007 Winchester III

PXL_20211020_202020255.jpg


2005 Signature passenger front HWH X-Slide chain replacement
pwhittle

Call Paul Maddox from HWH ((602) 549-3638) with the part numbers. He can supply the correct replacement chains. He is in AZ.

I was not able to replace the chain in place, but others have. I even struggled to get the chain installed with the X-Slide on the bench and had to drill some of the holes for the 1/4” bolts that replaced the pins oversize.

Paul


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

I believe the Esco switches are solid. And Xantrax as well is a great inverter. 
 

I rewired the way power was delivered in my Dip. Not sure how your going to camp/live with your coach, sounds like you are tracking down some noises 

 

Few things while on the road 

Rear Tires

Front Sway Bar

969587A5-4F2C-4D7C-88F6-E7BDB3ED6F68.jpeg

11C8A31C-0D48-4075-829F-600B2A7411FE.jpeg

5211172F-B139-44A9-BFB5-F42C0F47387F.jpeg

EBF206CD-4649-4204-8652-3083F21FF542.jpeg


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
rpasetto

We had GoodSam when we didn't know any better.  That was 2 decades ago.  Changed to CoachNet and they've been far better.


loose mirror glass
eddie4ne

The driver mirror became loose for us. We discovered that the bracket that held it had broken on one side. A piece of double sided gorilla tape did the trick. Is still holding about 3 years now.


loose mirror glass
seadoo200hp

Drivers side fell off years ago (2014) and now passenger fell off in September.  This is my 2nd replacement and Ramco can usually tell what kit you need by your year and model.  $34 was the price but brace yourself for shipping...........$27 in my case for Colorado! I saw units on E-bay (with free or low shipping) but decided the factory for this one.  I plan on using Gorilla tape which held up the temporary blind spot mirror purchased from Wal-Mart while on last trip. 

Ramco's phone number is 574-266-1455


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs

To follow up, I decided to replace two of the old pumps with the new Behler pump. I have four pumps. One is for engine pre-heat. The front two zones I replaced. I now have plenty of heat throughout the coach. After installing the new pumps, I ran the system for a day or so. I could see air bubbles in the lines, but they worked themselves out after a few hours of operation. 
 

I had to remove all four pumps to get enough room to replace the two old pumps in the back, with the Behler pumps. That meant pinching off the all the intact lines. I probably lost a half gallon of fluid during this process. Since the Behler pump has larger diameter hose connections, you have to use a reducer. This makes things difficult because the back two pumps have very short intact hose lengths, but I managed to arrange the pumps to make it work. 
 

If you do this job, take lots of pics as you go. Make sure you match up the correct electrical connections to each pump. I used all new hose clamps and gladly threw away those worthless wire clamps AH used, that are nearly impossible to remove. I checked all four check valves to see if they opened and closed freely, and they did. So, no need to replace them. 
 

The job took me about four hours to complete, while sitting on the ground. I had a hard time getting up after all that. I recommend getting up and moving around every so often.


ABS light came on
seadoo200hp
On 10/15/2021 at 2:14 PM, jegall said:

ABS will not effect normal braking my ABS has been on for 11000 miles. Hooked up to computer it said a rear sensor was bad I was  quoted $1500 to replace.

My ABS also is on all the time.  Have to prioritize what needs fixing, so far in 25k miles haven't had a problem.  The motorhome has taught me to be a defensive driver and aware of my situation more than anything else I have driven.


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
eddie4ne
11 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

I started with Coach-Net back in 2010 prior to leaving CA and traveling full-time. I am still with them and will not switch to any other ERS. I have had three different tows, one in Oregon, One on the Cassier Highway in northern British Columbia and one on I-81 in Virginia. Each time the tow company had to bring two trucks, one for the coach and one for my 30 foot cargo trailer I was towing at the time. The tow in northern BC would have cost me close to $7000 as it was over 200 miles one way. It only cost me a signature.

They have always dispatched the proper equipment to handle the job safely without causing any damage.

I have put together a list of critical information needed whenever I have had to call them for a tow.

Here is the list below for my coach - 2002 Windsor.

Towing Information for Towing Company

Length of Coach = 41 Feet

Width of Coach = 108 inches

 

Weight of Coach = 36,000 lbs

 

Rating of Front Axle = 13,000 lbs

 

Rating of Rear Axle = 23,000 lbs

 

Total Weight Coach and Trailer = 48,000 lbs

 

Height of Coach = 12 Foot

 

Type of Suspension = Air Bag

 

How many Air Bags = 8 – 2 on each Wheel - Outboard

 

Front Cap Slide or No Slide = Front Cap Generator Slide

 

Transmission Model Number = Allison 3000MH

 

Distance from Front Cap to Front Axle = 96 inches

 

Clearance from Ground to Bottom of Coach = Varies

 


 

Always ask for a Class 8 Tow Vehicle

 

 

 

Invaluable information since we have the same coach! Thank you!

I am also going to take the recommendation of getting CoachNet. We had GS and had several occasions that we called and were told that a service would be long time coming for service. All times we were able to figure a way out of our problem. NOT IMPRESSED!


How to Block up a Signature 40 chassis for HWH servicing
Ivylog

For the front I made 2 ramps out of scrap lumber I had…I glued and screwed the 3 layers of 2X10 together plus used one layer of plywood. They are 3’ long and have not had any issues driving up on them although I did cut the ends of the 2X10s at a 45.
For the rear, once on the ramps, I raise the coach up and put 40” long 6X6 crossways under the hitch, not just the receiver. Won’t post the picture of a wrecker towing a rig by the hitch so we don’t get off topic again. The hitch structure is strong enough to support the back of a S-10 chassis.

I don’t like steel on steel supports/Jack stands as it only takes a slight angle to have them kick out.

881C8871-7836-445F-BB0C-F5DFE086D1FF.png


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Dr4Film
25 minutes ago, eddie4ne said:

We had GS and had several occasions that we called and were told that a service would be long time coming for service. All times we were able to figure a way out of our problem. NOT IMPRESSED!

Well that's exactly how Marcus Lemonis operates. Grab peoples money by offering them huge promises and guarantees, then deliver crap. I won't touch anything affiliated with him.

I did have to purchased a new Aqua-Jet water pump back in October 2019 from Camping World as they were the only store within hundreds of miles in northern New Hampshire that had that model pump. But of course they charged me my left arm and right leg for the pump AND that was AFTER signing up for their Good Sam Discount (yeah right!). It was $350 but we were leaving that day for a 1500 mile trip back to Florida and needed to have water.


So far , so good
Dave Pumphrey

This is the camera I have, I think it was recommended by Chris Talin.

Wireless Endoscope Camera,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P5RZK44?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


TDS fuel card
Ivylog

Made a quick trip to Tampa in my PU…580 miles. Didn’t take my TSD card as it’s best price was $3.38 (a good discount from the $3.90 bend over price) as WalMart was $3.32 (2 blocks off I-75) less 16 cents with my credit card… $3.16 so filled up there in both directions. 

6D459019-8515-47C0-8F19-E06ED3A79D61.png


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
Rikadoo
2 hours ago, JDCrow said:

I believe the Esco switches are solid. And Xantrax as well is a great inverter. 
 

I rewired the way power was delivered in my Dip. Not sure how your going to camp/live with your coach, sounds like you are tracking down some noises 

 

Few things while on the road 

Rear Tires

Front Sway Bar

969587A5-4F2C-4D7C-88F6-E7BDB3ED6F68.jpeg

11C8A31C-0D48-4075-829F-600B2A7411FE.jpeg

5211172F-B139-44A9-BFB5-F42C0F47387F.jpeg

EBF206CD-4649-4204-8652-3083F21FF542.jpegHey JD i see you retained the Safe t system stabilizer, im intrested to get your opinion with that, i have concidered getting one for mine. On the you tubes it looks like it takes a while to get set up, is it a continual resistance either direction or is it more like just a dapmpner like cars an pick ups?


2215 fault code
jacwjames

Yikes, yup that's your problem

Glad you found it, good luck getting the replacement in, keep us posted. 


ABS light came on
Mike in Va
52 minutes ago, seadoo200hp said:

My ABS also is on all the time.  Have to prioritize what needs fixing, so far in 25k miles haven't had a problem.  The motorhome has taught me to be a defensive driver and aware of my situation more than anything else I have driven.

Seadoo the previous owner of my mh  had a problem with the abs light staying on. He had the sensors replaced and then lost confidence in the garage and stopped trying to fix it. I had it checked and found the abs module was bad. Found a new/ old stock one on Ebay for 250. Replaced it my self and that took care of my problem.  I was told before I fixed it that having the light on would not effect the brakes, only no abs system . 


Ride Height Not working in Front Properly
Dr4Film

I had the same problem back in 2018 but it was the front passenger side that would drop and lean heavily as soon as I released the park brake. I would raise that corner back up using the manual mode on the HWH panel but it would not stay there.

What I had to do in order to continue on our trip from the Adirondacks to Old Town Quebec was to bring the right front corner up to a reasonable level condition, then while holding one finger on the HWH panel to not let it turn off I released the brake, put it in gear and drove on. So I was driving with my left hand at the HWH panel and one hand on the steering wheel. I drove like that for about 10 miles from Golden Beach Campground to Blue Mountain Lake then pulled over to take a break and go through the variety store there. When we returned to the coach, I dump all air from the bags and started the engine. The coach raised up to proper ride height correctly and we drove on.

That condition has never happened again ever. I can only imagine that some solenoid got stuck open which caused the air bag to dump all air and not hold it at ride height.

Bill, the front 6-pack has 6 solenoids, two for ride height, two for raise and two for lower. The front air bags are not plumbed together, they are separate. In my case I believe that the right air bag Travel Solenoid had stuck open not closing properly. Whereas in your case it would have been the left air bag Travel Solenoid that has stuck open.

image.png.b37c59726bc7a7c0e08bcf78a791324b.png


ABS light came on
Ivylog

ABS is idiot proof braking… you cannot lock the brakes up making it easier to steer around the object you are about to hit. Not having ABS on slick pavement might make a difference but on dry pavement it may actually increase the stopping distance, slightly.


ABS light came on
jacwjames

I've had a problem with my ABS light off and on since I've owned the coach so I've gotten fairly competent at checking for codes and fixing things. 

First thing anyone needs to do is determine how to check codes, some are different then others but it should be explained in your manual.  In my case I have an ABS diagnostic module in my front drivers side electrical bay, in my case it is located on the lower left hand side of the compartment.  It looks like this http://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/16614041.html  one issue though is that it is obsolete so be careful with it.  NW RV Supply offers a repair service but that's not a guarantee.

In my case I have to turn the key on not starting the rig, press the brake pedal one time, go outside and press the small black button on the module for <2 seconds.  It will then flash the fault codes.  I believe a 1-1 code means all is OK. 

I have a code for the front drivers side sensor bad, pulled it and cleaned and reinstalled and light went out.

Periodically over the years I have an ABS light come on and it turned out to be that the black button was stuck, dirt gets in it and the road vibration eventually holds it in causing the light to come on.  I can take compressed air and blow it out while rapidly pressing the button.  The last time this happened the compressed air didn't work.  I had to take the button apart, underneath is a small spring plate that closed the connection to start the diagnostic process, it has 4 small legs that provide the spring action.  I GENTLY bent the legs in a little and put the button back together and the board back in an that worked.

The one code that I had that was the hardest to figure out was showing the ABS system was in Dyno mode.  This happens if you hold the button down for more then 2 seconds, which I must have done when checking for codes.  All the books say that if you put the system in Dyno mode and then drive the coach it is suppose to clear but in my case it didn't.  After hours of searching I found a process to get the system out of the Dyno mode, which involved pressing the brake pedal and pressing the black button in a sequence (took me and my wife to do it).  That got rid of the light and taught me not to hold the button down for more then 2 seconds. 


loose mirror glass
OhReally

Auto body shop or RV collision repair deal with this kind of thing all the time. Take yours to them after you call for an appointment. Also, beware of duct tape. If it's on your paint, it will take paint off when you remove it. Anywhere else, it will leave all of its adhesive on the coach after being sun drenched for a short while.

-Jamie


The Trip from Hell
RoadTripper2084
11 hours ago, just_john1 said:

I was asked for the GoFundMe link, I hadn't planned on posting it here, but here it is.

https://www.gofundme.com/f/getting-out-of-everett?utm_source=customer&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_campaign=p_cf+share-flow-1

Thanks. John

Thought I would provide an update. Cummins has cameras, but of course they don't aim in the right direction. I contacted a Mobile Mechanic and he came out to look at the rig. He confirmed the turbo is out. Doesn't know why it won't fire. Does anyone know where the diagnostic port on a 97 Dynasty is located? The OBD2 plug on this rig is useless it only has 4 contacts in it. The mech. said it should be round with 6 contacts. Am calling Cummins to see if they know. We are making progress kinda slow, but progress.

Now for something up beat. Met a Forum member, who  lives here. Really nice guy and knows the area and offers his assistance. Doesn't feel so lonely now. Thanks Gary for being here.

The 97 Dynasty is a mechanical engine, so no electronic diagnostics for the engine. The Allison tranny is electronic, but that's not your problem.

On 10/21/2021 at 4:48 PM, just_john1 said:

They figure the turbo shaft  broke and blew the engine

Sorry, I'm just trying to figure out where you sit. The Turbo has failed, that much is certain? And Cummins said that the engine is blown? How did they determine that? Did they open it up?

 


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Dr4Film
12 hours ago, Steve P said:

Coach Net sounds like THE choice... is their best service the 24/7 package?   It seems to be $249 (per year), which in my book, is a deal.  Is that rate pretty steady, or does it change significantly in future years? 

Steve,

Yes, 24/7 Protect Motorized is the Emergency Roadside Service you would need for your coach.

New members are charged $249 for one year. Whenever I renew my membership they offer a one year for $169 or a three year for $489, I always sign up for three years at a time to get a slight discount.


ABS light came on
RoadTripper2084
12 hours ago, Ivan K said:

I don't think it should be happening on every start. Maybe you don't wait for the lamp test to complete its ÷2s cycle before going from ON to START. The first thing an air brake endorsement examiner is looking for is the light to come ON and OFF before continuing the test.

Nope. On my rig it's the expected behaviour. 🙂

IMG_0818.thumb.JPG.098870a08b593245bd6ab8150e88de24.JPG


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Bill R

Thank you EveryONE!  I am so much better informed about EMS now.  Will for sure be checking out Coach.Net.


Sharp Microwave being replaced
Steven P

 

19 hours ago, thomasgibbens said:

There’s a fuse in the unit under the cover that likely blew. Might check it. 

Thank you,  but it all works properly now after the changes above. 


The Trip from Hell
just_john1

To the best of my knowledge they didn't. The valve cover wasn't taken off, so maybe they have x-ray vision. I just frustrated. The mechanic said it should start with out the turbo, that is why he wants the location of the port. You would think for $2300 the would go a little deeper. I uploaded the paper work here https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/folders/14hAoUhg-q3FDcM066VdwZSUli_MJzVJB . The people that have seen it seem to scratch there heads. Hope you can make sense out of it.  


The Trip from Hell
RoadTripper2084

Okay, I am not a mechanic and I don't know what I'm doing, so consider yourself warned.

Does the starter turn over, but the engine won't fire up?

If so, a very common problem on these mechanical engines is the fuel lockout solenoid will fail or stick. Based on your description of the the engine just stopping all of a sudden it could explain it.

Here is a page from my manual that talks about it:

IMG_0819.thumb.JPG.84d14fc776ef5345555177b5311a1d50.JPG

Under your bed, on the left top side of the engine you will find it. If you turn your key to the ON position (but not cranking), and then use your hand to push the solenoid all the way up/in, this will open the fuel valve and allow fuel into the engine. While you (or someone else) holds the level all the way in, have someone else try to start it with the key. If this was your problem it should fire right up.  Likewise, when you turn your key "off", this solenoid shuts down and the valve closes, turning fuel off to the engine. This is literally how the engine starts and stops (well, with the additional of turning over via the starter to start).

Note that if the solenoid has failed you may need to manually pull the lever down to stop the engine, even when the key is "off".

If it were me, I would follow the procedure above to ensure that the fuel valve was fully open to see if that gets it started. 

 

 


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

Rik

Good Morn!

I took it off for the trip to Havasu from Yuma, and honestly it was harder to keep the Dip from wandering.

In Yuma I adjusted all the play out of my steering box. Todays trip will tell me if putting it back on will help. I honestly would rather have it on than off. 

I’ve had it on for awhile and yes you have to adjust it very slightly to find “center”. It will pull one way till you get it just right.

I’ll report this eve


The Trip from Hell
just_john1

This makes sense and will check it out. The way this trip is going I'm not very optimistic. God willing and the creek don't rise this will work. Thanks for the tip.


2215 fault code
BradHend

Flyinhy, I’ve heard all kinds of numbers,  but the average seems to be around 5-7K PSI minimum during cranking to get it to fire.  
 


ABS light came on
Ivan K
1 hour ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

Nope. On my rig it's the expected behaviour. 🙂

IMG_0818.thumb.JPG.098870a08b593245bd6ab8150e88de24.JPG

Interesting, did not know there was a system like that. Mine only stays on if there was a trouble present.


ABS light came on
RoadTripper2084
1 minute ago, Ivan K said:

Interesting, did not know there was a system like that. Mine only stays on if there was a trouble present.

Yeah, that's the normal way it's done these days. I suspect they changed it since the behaviour on mine would probably be concerning for people who didn't read the manual (why is my ABS light still on?).  


2215 fault code
Flyinhy
52 minutes ago, BradHend said:

Flyinhy, I’ve heard all kinds of numbers,  but the average seems to be around 5-7K PSI minimum during cranking to get it to fire.  
 

That sounds more like it. On the older mechanical 5.9.....pressures were 20k. I don't think it's an underlying issue either. Again....good job!


TDS fuel card
Steve P
3 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Made a quick trip to Tampa in my PU…580 miles. Didn’t take my TSD card as it’s best price was $3.38 (a good discount from the $3.90 bend over price) as WalMart was $3.32 (2 blocks off I-75) less 16 cents with my credit card… $3.16 so filled up there in both directions. 

6D459019-8515-47C0-8F19-E06ED3A79D61.png

Got me thinking... maybe I'll replace my toad with a diesel pickup, and put a large auxiliary tank in the pickup bed, with a refueling hose.   Then I can fill that up easily at places that won't accommodate a 60' rig, and do a fuel transfer to the motor home when I get back there with the pickup.  Any thoughts on that? 


Replacing and source for Nason pressure switch air parking brake
ok-rver

Bob Nodine has a very good, detailed method to replace the Nason pressure switch with a reliable spst, (on/off), switch and relay. When mine started acting up a week ago, I came very close to using his method but I did not feel I had the time to get it working. REV wanted $140 plus shipping for the switch. Airline Hydraulics had the part for under $45 with $22 shipping (ouch, no free Prime). Received part in 3 days.

A brief discussion of how I replaced mine in a 2004 HR Scepter. About 8 screws around the perimeter of my side console plastic filler plate with the air switch, Allison pad and other switches. Two of the three screws the cup holder were holding the plate down. There is a trim ring on the cup holder that pops off and gives access to the screw. The plate would only come up an inch or so. Pulled the 5 or so screws holding the side console to the wall of the motorhome. It turns out the Nason connector was the short wire. Once it was disconnected, the console tilted away from the wall. Remove the air switch knob and lock nut, unscrewed the very long bolts that held the valve to the plate and the valve was accessible. Unscrewed the pressure switch (very tight) and screwed in the new one with thread lube. bolted back together and everything worked correctly. Less than an hour of time.

New switch is slightly different than the old. Failure mode was as Bob and others have discussed. . The NC contact with out air showed open. Now that I have a failed switch, I will cut off the wiring harness and maybe pick up the parts needed to make up Bob's system. Or if this one lasts the 18 years the first one did, I will never replace it.


TDS fuel card
Gary M
20 minutes ago, Steve P said:

Got me thinking... maybe I'll replace my toad with a diesel pickup, and put a large auxiliary tank in the pickup bed, with a refueling hose.   Then I can fill that up easily at places that won't accommodate a 60' rig, and do a fuel transfer to the motor home when I get back there with the pickup.  Any thoughts on that? 

Well I guess the extra weight of fuel and truck would have to be figured in to see how much extra fuel u would burn towing.


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

Just fired up the tire minder to see how it works. I’m not thrilled about the suction mount, so I’ll have to see about a Ram mount. The pattern on the first adjusting nut looks similar to a GoPro. 

1CA6AE6B-4EDC-4E13-BE99-09A0E583B7FA.jpeg


Replacing and source for Nason pressure switch air parking brake
JDCrow

I’ll have to find Bobs thread as this is new and Greek at the same time. Thanks for a new system to learn and project to add to the mental file 


Beltline Trim
RBRODDER

Thank You Ivan!


TDS fuel card
FishAR
1 hour ago, Steve P said:

Got me thinking... maybe I'll replace my toad with a diesel pickup, and put a large auxiliary tank in the pickup bed, with a refueling hose.   Then I can fill that up easily at places that won't accommodate a 60' rig, and do a fuel transfer to the motor home when I get back there with the pickup.  Any thoughts on that? 

I thought about doing that with my 2018 Ram dually, I already had that kind of 60 gallon tank in it.

But I thought I might be crowding my 10,000 pound tow limit closer than I wanted, plus who wants to pull a crew cab dually around, and I got offered so much money for it I couldn't turn it down.

More than I paid new.


Changing out Norcold to Fisher Paykel residential
biloxi_dad

This past summer I replaced my Norcold 1200 for a new Samsung in my 2005 HR Ambassador.  The furnace is under the frig and there was little/no excess headroom with the Norcold.  I took it to an RV shop that specializes in doing modifications.  They were able to lower the platform 5" without affecting the furnace.  All's good...glad I had it changed.  Much better frig and much more space.

PS...mine runs on MSW inverter just fine.

Screenshot_20211027-122630_Gallery.thumb.jpg.5d3a167723feb9825e8956657f37ed21.jpg


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
tomevansfl
On 9/6/2021 at 9:39 PM, JDCrow said:

Found some time today 

A0D4E120-C567-4893-ACC2-F54107DFFAC0.jpeg

01C1182A-1B0D-4E68-B049-0A16A186E9DD.jpeg

41C04094-96C6-43BA-980F-54599EF6B405.jpeg

725E62FB-BACE-432D-A929-D7192F2DC025.jpeg

BC91C4D7-CD3E-4F0A-A142-8505501B27D5.jpeg

Headlights look good.  I didn't think I would like these, but I do.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52
12 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Ken,

Yeah flipping the bolts would have been the ticket. I just have a thing for bolts on bottom. Don’t know why. I did flip the long bolt that went in the arm side of the frame hanger mounts. Though the end didn’t touch or mess up the arm swinging, I just wanted more space. 
 

Heading out 12ish for Grand Canyon for a few days. 5 hrs or so of driving to see how she feels 

Here’s a Van or Bob question:

This week been trying to get a fab guy to come and build a frame to move the front watts from behind the front axle to on front of it. The idea expressed was needing 2 things: 1) get it away from panhard rod as much as possible, and 2) tie the front of the H frame to the solid center to get it stabilized 

As I’m under the coach today, I’m looking it and thinking about the issues I’m having, then I wonder, is there anything wrong with having 2 Watts set ups on the front? Other than a dent in my wallet? 
 

Also as I’m looking at the rear when the tires are off, it looks like the rear watts will be right next to the panhard rod as well. 

C79BE0D2-A681-4D2F-9F93-67370BEBE5E7.jpeg

The Panhard rod and the Watts links do not have coincident travel arcs.  (Image two hinges with the hinge pins not in line with each other--one hinge "fights" the other.) The Panhard rod, when the H-frame moves up and down, causes a slight sideways motion of the H-frame.  That is the reason it is placed as nearly horizontal at normal travel height--to minimize that sideways motion.  The Watts link tries to keep the motion of the H-frame PERFECTLY vertical.  So, the Watts link and Panhard rod are "fighting" one another.  As it applies to curing wandering, that conflict is definitely NOT a problem.  The farther the Panhard rod is from the Watts link, the less the conflict.  However, if you were to couple TWO Watts links to the H-frame (one toward the front, one toward the rear) that conflict of motion between the Panhard rod and two Watts links would develop some huge forces.  Something will probably break.  DON'T DO IT.

OTOH, if Watts links were rugged enough (ours are NOT), you could eliminate the Panhard rod altogether and depend on the two Watts links (one front of H-frame, one rear of H-frame) to thoroughly stabilize the H-frame.  Similarly, TWO Panhard rods (with NO Watts links) would accomplish stabilizing the H-frame.  Had the original Chrysler design incorporated those two Panhard rods, "wandering" would never have been a topic of conversation.


Battery monitoring shunt install location with Xantrex inverter
Ivan K

I am going to install a battery shunt to monitor charge/discharge/SOC status and deciding on a location to install it out of the elements since these are not weather proof. I was thinking to put it right beside the inverter ground terminal (where my solar charge also grounds) since I don't know where the other side of the ground cable terminates. I know some of you are using Victron shunt or similar type that uses ground path and had gone through this already and could offer an advice.  Thanks.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
9 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

The Panhard rod and the Watts links do not have coincident travel arcs.  (Image two hinges with the hinge pins not in line with each other--one hinge "fights" the other.) The Panhard rod, when the H-frame moves up and down, causes a slight sideways motion of the H-frame.  That is the reason it is placed as nearly horizontal at normal travel height--to minimize that sideways motion.  The Watts link tries to keep the motion of the H-frame PERFECTLY vertical.  So, the Watts link and Panhard rod are "fighting" one another.  As it applies to curing wandering, that conflict is definitely NOT a problem.  The farther the Panhard rod is from the Watts link, the less the conflict.  However, if you were to couple TWO Watts links to the H-frame (one toward the front, one toward the rear) that conflict of motion between the Panhard rod and two Watts links would develop some huge forces.  Something will probably break.  DON'T DO IT.

OTOH, if Watts links were rugged enough (ours are NOT), you could eliminate the Panhard rod altogether and depend on the two Watts links (one front of H-frame, one rear of H-frame) to thoroughly stabilize the H-frame.  Similarly, TWO Panhard rods (with NO Watts links) would accomplish stabilizing the H-frame.  Had the original Chrysler design incorporated those two Panhard rods, "wandering" would never have been a topic of conversation.

Thanks for the lesson. I’ll stick with trying to move the Watts when I get home. 
 

To install another panhard seems daunting, unless it was adjustable. Aligning the H frame to the frame and to go straight down the road. Maybe I’m over thinking it as it’s not my line of work. 


Changing out Norcold to Fisher Paykel residential
cbr046
33 minutes ago, biloxi_dad said:

This past summer I replaced my Norcold 1200 for a new Samsung in my 2005 HR Ambassador.  The furnace is under the frig and there was little/no excess headroom with the Norcold.  I took it to an RV shop that specializes in doing modifications.  They were able to lower the platform 5" without affecting the furnace.  All's good...glad I had it changed.  Much better frig and much more space.

PS...mine runs on MSW inverter just fine.

 

5 inches?  Wow.  I have a drain line for the sink that runs over the top of the furnace, and your galley is in the same location as mine.  Any idea what they did with that drain line?

- bob


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
Flyinhy

The headlights look great. After spending 5k on tires , I'm on a pretty tight budget for now so I'll have to use the old lemon and baking soda trick to clean up my dingy headlights. 😁 I think they're from caddy sevilles? Like 98-2003? 


How to Block up a Signature 40 chassis for HWH servicing
Bill R
On 10/26/2021 at 12:42 AM, jjroxus said:

Hello,

I need to service My HWH manifolds/six-packs/pressure valves, aux compressor,etc.  I have been reading a lot of good info here on troubleshooting issues, finding and repairing leaks and replacing components in the HWH system.  It is always mentioned to block up the chassis before going under the coach to work on it.  I need some insight on how you guys did the blocking to give you room to work and protect yourself and the coach.   I dumped my air bags today and slid under for a quick look and soon realized there's no room to work when the air bags are deflated, especially where the rear manifolds are located above the drive axle.  What procedure did you follow and where did you put the blocking material?  What materials did you use to block it up.

Thank You,

JJ

2002 Signature 40

 

I am in the same situation as JJ to do some work on the air system under the coach.  It appears to me there are TWO methods being described.  ONE is using wood ramp to raise the entire coach and TWO blocking between the chassis and suspension.  Am I correct in what I am reading?  Is it best to do both methods or just one is needed for the best and safest approach to lifting the coach to check for leaks and work on the air system?


Replacing and source for Nason pressure switch air parking brake
ok-rver

Articles/Technical papers/ a closer look...  will get you to his PDF that has all of the post combined.


Changing out Norcold to Fisher Paykel residential
biloxi_dad
45 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

5 inches?  Wow.  I have a drain line for the sink that runs over the top of the furnace, and your galley is in the same location as mine.  Any idea what they did with that drain line?

- bob

The Samsung is not as deep as the Norcold, so they didn't need to touch the drain line...the platform and Samsung sits in front of that drain.


Battery monitoring shunt install location with Xantrex inverter
KevinH

Not sure what inverter you have I just installed one last winter and I went with the BMK by magnum. I installed the Shunt and module in the battery compartment and put the module in a weatherproof electrical box. I looked into Victron shunt and After reading others that had installed them I opted not to use that. It had something to do with the Bluetooth capabilities. I think the one I installed is awesome I know exactly what the batteries Capacity is  and I know exactly how many amps are being drawn from the batteries at any given time. Hope this helps


How to Block up a Signature 40 chassis for HWH servicing
SteveC
32 minutes ago, Bill R said:

I am in the same situation as JJ to do some work on the air system under the coach.  It appears to me there are TWO methods being described.  ONE is using wood ramp to raise the entire coach and TWO blocking between the chassis and suspension.  Am I correct in what I am reading?  Is it best to do both methods or just one is needed for the best and safest approach to lifting the coach to check for leaks and work on the air system?

Bill, it depends on what you are wanting to do. Blocking between the frame and the suspension allows for changing the air bags and working on the control valves safely. The ramps allow more room between the suspension and the ground but doesn't keep the body from coming down onto the frame. There are probably times where you might want to do both.


Battery monitoring shunt install location with Xantrex inverter
Ivan K

Thank You Kevin, does the shunt get hot in the box? My inverter is by Xantrex, 3kw. My concern was also with tension on the cable when sliding the battery shelf out but suppose a good rigid mounted box would take care of it. I also read the Bluetooth range concerns and that's a shame because my controller and volt/temp monitor are Victron and work fine with their network app. I decided to test this cheap $40 monitor because of it's good reviews. No BT and no history but crazy low price. The display cable routing would be a pain with our floor plan so I would mount the display in a basement compartment for now which it usually open to watch outside TV anyway.

16353629705121532290984637215721.jpg


Battery monitoring shunt install location with Xantrex inverter
vito.a

The ground for our Trace Xantrex inverter was in the main basement compartment from the inverter up to the frame rail.  I added the shunt to the basement ceiling and made up one new cable to go from it to the frame rail.  

I later upgraded to a Magnum inverter with a Magnum ME-BMK, but the wiring remains the same.  

Magnum ME-BMK installed.jpg


Battery monitoring shunt install location with Xantrex inverter
Mark B

Ivan, I installed the Victron BMV-712 in the electrical bay next to my battery compartment. I made my own cable for the monitor and ran it to the cabinet where my inverter controls are. That was a chore. The Bluetooth comes from the monitor so no issue for me. If you opt for the model that has Bluetooth and no display it could be an issue to get signal to the pilot. I have a DC to DC smart charger and I rarely see the signal up front, My mppt solar controller sometimes has issues with the signal as well. As long as I know the SOC I'm good. I learned a lot when putting this stuff in. My system works great for me.

 

Monitor.thumb.jpg.96a53ee417eebcdbd3ba2061445eb4f8.jpg

Inverter.thumb.jpg.93feb03bf2601b6851f15f9bb6224b99.jpg

 

2051043287_ElectricalBay2.thumb.jpg.4cf15ce86ae821209bf817bc01d9da3d.jpg


The Trip from Hell
RoadTripper2084

To be clear, I meant it is on the top left side of the engine if you in the bedroom facing the back of the coach.

Here is another diagram of the solenoid that I found:

1871826861_FuelSolenoid.gif.534bbe039a9cdff5ca9678c921930796.gif.e79800f6ecc075802da3985e92be2bf4.gif


TDS fuel card
Steve P
3 hours ago, Gary M said:

Well I guess the extra weight of fuel and truck would have to be figured in to see how much extra fuel u would burn towing.

2500 lbs more for truck and fuel increasing rig total to about 40000.  Can't see that increasing fuel burn significantly.  Wouldn't necessarily carry much fuel in the aux tank of the pickup bed while traveling.   Typical day is 300 miles.  6.5 miles pret hall worst case.   Could fill the aux tank while out for dinner, unless I don't feel like unhooking.  Then transfer fuel when I return from dinner, or just before departure in the morning.  Truck could be a gas burner (e.g. Ram 1500 or F-150).  Then the bed tank would be self- contained, not aux of course.  This setup would increase my options and potentially save on fuel.  It makes refueling 2 steps, and it would be crucial not to spill in a campground.


The Trip from Hell
just_john1

Did that and it does seem to be sticky, but that ain't the problem. It was suggested to start a new thread to up date everyone. It just keeps getting weirder and weirder.


Battery monitoring shunt install location with Xantrex inverter
Ivan K

Great pictures gentlemen, thank you! Very nice work. I do not have an electrical bay since most of that 12V stuff is in the engine room and my inverter and Victron controller hang on driver side basement ceiling. Seems similar to Vito's configuration. I'll try to trace down the inverter ground to frame rail connection, that would make it easier if in the compartment. Just need to take down the huge ceiling cover for the hundreds time to see if I missed it previously. But if there, I can route the display cable up through toilet cabinet into the hall just like for the EMS. Fingers crossed. Thanks again!


TDS fuel card
Ivylog

I have a 80 gallon tank/pump/long hose in my PU but it had off road diesel in it… I stay legal in what goes in the PU’s tank. I would not use it as a toad (to heavy) or use it to transfer fuel (10 gallons/minute) as I go into the cheapest stations with my rig.

 The time involved taking the truck to get fuel and then transfer it into the MH exceeds even my frugal nature. OK, I have used it to gas my boats instead of the local marina and then I’ve put high test in one tank of the airplane but these’s a $2 price difference.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
dl_racing427
5 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Thanks for the lesson. I’ll stick with trying to move the Watts when I get home. 
 

To install another panhard seems daunting, unless it was adjustable. Aligning the H frame to the frame and to go straight down the road. Maybe I’m over thinking it as it’s not my line of work. 

I think finding room for another Panhard rod would be difficult.
Both rods would need to have similarly located mounting points at each end, as well as be the same length for them to work together properly.
That would be the ultimate in simplicity, strength and stability though.


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
jacwjames

My wife took the rig to a dog show near Nashville last week and when she came back she said the rear AC unit was making a lot of noise.

So finally got a chance to look at it today, the main problem was that the rubber grommet type isolators were shot. The motor seemed to turn freely.  I went ahead and ordered a set.  I then went about getting the old ones out, what a pain.  One of the nuts on the support was seized, ended up having to take the whole motor and condensor blower wheel and metal shroud out to be able to work on it.  It took a lot of effort to get the blower wheel off the shaft, i didn't destroy it but it buggered up one side of the mount area.  I will be able to use it but it's just a matter of time.

I decided to see if I could find a motor kit, no luck.  I then tried to find a new blower wheel, no luck.  The AC units are ~20 years old so finding parts will be impossible going forward.

So I am looking for suggestions and recommendations on new units.  I'd like to up size to a 15K unit, has anyone recently done this, if so where did you get them. 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Ivylog

I still put in 12+ hour days to-from the West…impossible to do if the rig didn’t handle well. A tag axle rig doesn’t porpoise as much as a non tag which may explain the better handling. The front suspension is the same on tag and non tag rigs…my 04 Dynasty and 08 Navigator do not wander down the road., I love driving them for over 100K miles.
 

Guess I’m still confused. If the amount the pan hard bar moves the H frame side to side results in wandering, what about the changing steering input from the tie rod when the axle moves up/down??? The side to side movement is on a 200+” arm (rigs wheelbase) while the tie rod moves a 12” arm. Yes, the tie rod is longer than the p hard rod but it still affects the steering but not adversely???

Has anyone put a Watts link on a S-10’s front axle? I would love to drive it to see what I’m missing.


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
Wrayj1

Jim,   I don't know the model, but news rigs today have a much quieter ac system, not sure if your existing ducting would accommodate the new quiet units, but might be worth investigating,  One thing that might prohibit their use is they the return air is not jn the unit, it's a separate return air in the ceiling.  The ducting might be snake to be adapted?  Good luck with your search.


Battery monitoring shunt install location with Xantrex inverter
Ivylog

The shunt needs to go between the batteries and the ground, not at the inverter… you have other things drawing on your batteries than just the inverter and my alternator charges my house batteries.

Like Ivan ^^^ I went with a $40 SOC/shunt on my 600AH of Lithium batteries I built. Was able to mount the round indicator in the BR…handier than the basement.

Planning on adding another 600AH of Lithiums with another $40 SOC/shunt with the indicator in the BR too. I need to run 120V power to the battery area so I can heat it (light bulb or heater) when it’s below freezing. Will run the indicator’s cable through the same hole in the floor… hopefully one already in it.


Anyone know what this is?
georgecederholm
On 10/26/2021 at 4:59 PM, 96 EVO said:

What's your axle weights with 60-65psi in the tag air bags?

Minimal difference in weight between same year 10 and 12.5k Onan generators! They both run the same engine.

Ben,

I'm about 14500 on the steer, 24000 on the drive, and 7500 on the tag. Still over slightly on the drive. Haven't weighed in a couple of years so due for that, as well as putting the rig on a diet. I'm running 315s on the steer and tag and 12R22.5 on the drive, so I have the weight covered (except for the 23k drive axle). Just did maintenance this summer and differential oil analysis looks good so not burning it up.


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
vito.a

I replaced one of our A/C units with a Dometic 15k Penguin low profile heat pump plus a retrofit control board.  I purchased it from PPL motorhome parts and they drop shipped them directly to me. 

Do you still have the old 4 button thermostats?    

I ask because the new units come setup for the new CCC2 programmable thermostat.  The A/C unit control board configuration must match the thermostat.    

You can purchase the new CCC2 thermostat, or a retrofit control board.  But, the retrofit control board will only go back as far as the 5 button CCC thermostat, not the 4 button.  And you can't run your other original A/C from one of the new CCC2 thermostats.  So, if you decide to go with the new CCC2 thermostat you are forced to replace both A/C units.  

If you already have the 5 button thermostat, you can purchase one new A/C along with a retrofit control board and still control your old A/C.  

 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Dr4Film
1 hour ago, Ivylog said:

Has anyone put a Watts link on a S-10’s front axle? I would love to drive it to see what I’m missing.

I believe Dave Pratt had one installed on his 2005 Exec before he sold it. I think Mike H. owns it now.


Anyone know what this is?
Ivylog

Around 2006 Monaco started moving the fuel tank from just behind the front axle to the 2nd bay taking a fair amount of weight off the front axle. My 08 Nav’s axle weights are 14, 23, & 10 (60 psi in the tag’s airbags).

Not sure why you are using 315s on the tag…I’m using 11Rs.


Battery monitoring shunt install location with Xantrex inverter
Ivan K

Yeah, that is true in my case too, however my charts show that the only element bypassing the inverter ground is a maintainer. I realize that it could possibly take up to 15A of unaccounted current but since I have a dedicated panel and controller setup just for chassis, I think the only time I see it maintaining is when plugged in under carport. I'll have to decide whether to accept some yet unknown inaccuracies in lieu of possibly easier install... I am imagining that as the solar quits in the evening,  house voltage drops below AMP-L trigger and maintaining quits, taking itself out of the equation. Evenings are when I watch that batteries most since we tend to stay up late. Not quite sure what that may do to SOC calculations. 


Installing new airbags
Mike in Va

Getting ready to install new air bags on the rear of my 2001 HR Ambassador.  I went under the MH this evening and would like to know how to remove the air lines from the T fitting that comes out of the top of the bag. Was a little hard to get a good look at this area. Is it a slid in fitting and do I need a special tool to get this done? Thanks      


The Trip from Hell Update
just_john1

Well things just keep getting weirder and weirder. For those who have been following my original post you saw how things went from bad to worse. Still in a hole but more optimistic. I found a Mobile Mechanic who is working with me. He's and old guy whos been at it a while. He's as dumb founded as me. Well I got sick and tired of not doing anything. So I pulled the valve cover. Now I have been under a lot of covers. This one was the cleanest I have ever experienced. No build up,  no filings nothing. This is where it gets weird. I garbed the first set of valves and the block was loose. Eureka, Something wrong! I started checking around and damned if all 6 are loose. The bolts I can remove with my fingers. They all seem in about the same position. It's like someone got in there and loosened them up. Told you it was weird. The only thing I can come up with is someone didn't tighten them up and they just vibrated loose. The push rods all look straight and all of the springs are tight and the same height. Boy am I confused.

So does anyone have a clue, o heck a hair brain idea? I plan on torqueing them down and see what happens. If it starts then I can get a Turbo and maybe get out of this town.

On the police front, the cop doesn't give much hope on finding my wife's scooter or any thing else.

Life is grand.

John

Forgot the pics.397922657_BoltwCoil.JPG.cd50afad8828333a7cfe521cbed2ee98.JPG

Heli Coil.JPG

IMG_0331.JPG

IMG_0332.JPG

IMG_0333.JPG

IMG_0334.JPG


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
DrDon4u

I got my RV AC parts from dyersonline.com. They have a lot of RV AC parts.

They had everthing I needed. Good Luck!!!!

Don


Source Engineering Ride Enhancement Kit
Mike in Va

Ncsteve I sent you a message a while back about installing the ride kit on my 2001 HR Ambassador. I ordered the kit shortly after and went ahead and bought the shocks and put them on. Jim is having trouble getting the front air bags from firestone now. I may have to go back with the standard air bags on the front because mine are getting really worn and I don't want them to go flat while on a trip. I just bought the rear bags and am getting ready to put them on but I have a question. How does the air lines attach to the T fitting ? Do I need to get a special tool? Thanks Mike 


Installing new airbags
Michael Powell

No go buy one at home depo and you may see how it works use an adjustable wrench Make it the size of the hose and push it against the fitting and pull the hose at the same time... look it up on YouTube...


Installing new airbags
Mike in Va

Thanks for the help Mike looking now. 


The Trip from Hell Update
Trinidaddave

Very interesting, We have had our 2005 Safari Gazelle since March, 31,000 miles.  Every time I ask my CAT service center(Sacramento), to do the overhead adjustments, this basically sets valve  clearance on my C9 as I understand it. He just laughs at me, says it doesn’t have enough miles.  After reading your post I think I should be more persistent. 
good luck with your repairs and safe travels.

I will keep following your post 


Anyone know what this is?
96 EVO
1 hour ago, Ivylog said:

Around 2006 Monaco started moving the fuel tank from just behind the front axle to the 2nd bay taking a fair amount of weight off the front axle. My 08 Nav’s axle weights are 14, 23, & 10 (60 psi in the tag’s airbags).

Not sure why you are using 315s on the tag…I’m using 11Rs.

Nope.

My 08' has the fuel tank, followed by the 100gal fresh water tank, and AH in the first bay!

2 hours ago, georgecederholm said:

Ben,

I'm about 14500 on the steer, 24000 on the drive, and 7500 on the tag. Still over slightly on the drive. Haven't weighed in a couple of years so due for that, as well as putting the rig on a diet. I'm running 315s on the steer and tag and 12R22.5 on the drive, so I have the weight covered (except for the 23k drive axle). Just did maintenance this summer and differential oil analysis looks good so not burning it up.

Yeah, you are heavy!

I'm about #300 lighter on the steer, about the same as you on the tag, but luckily I'm only a little over #17,000 on the drive axle.

My drive axle is rated by Monaco as a #20,000  axle, but while researching parts for it, I discovered the manufacturer lists it as a #19,000 axle!


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52
2 hours ago, Ivylog said:

I still put in 12+ hour days to-from the West…impossible to do if the rig didn’t handle well. A tag axle rig doesn’t porpoise as much as a non tag which may explain the better handling. The front suspension is the same on tag and non tag rigs…my 04 Dynasty and 08 Navigator do not wander down the road., I love driving them for over 100K miles.
 

Guess I’m still confused. If the amount the pan hard bar moves the H frame side to side results in wandering, what about the changing steering input from the tie rod when the axle moves up/down??? The side to side movement is on a 200+” arm (rigs wheelbase) while the tie rod moves a 12” arm. Yes, the tie rod is longer than the p hard rod but it still affects the steering but not adversely???

Has anyone put a Watts link on a S-10’s front axle? I would love to drive it to see what I’m missing.

Tag axle coaches wander less because there are TWO fixed axles.  It is simply harder to cause the coach to change direction.  That is why you are advised to raise the tag when sharp turns are required.  The lack (or an extreme amount) of  "porpoising" has nothing to do with the wandering.

"If the amount the pan hard bar moves the H frame side to side results in wandering..."  It does not.  The amount the Panhard rod moves the H-frame side-to-side is negligible when traveling down an straight highway. It amounts to very little side-to-side movement even during its full range of travel. The wandering is due to the H-frame "squirming" under the coach and changing the direction of the wheels.  Prevent the H-frame from "squirming and twisting" under the coach, and wandering ceases.

As an illustration, imagine a vertical shaft was welded to the  H-frame and extended through your floor, where a steering wheel was mounted to it.   Have someone twist that steering wheel back and forth while you are driving.  The H-frame will twist with it, changing the direction the wheels are pointing.  And, of course, your coach will go where its wheels are pointed.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow

Just rolled into trailer village at the Grand Canyon. 
 

I had to ditch the Truck and have my wife follow me. Really hunting the road left and right. After I took truck off, it was better, still not solid, but better it took less effort to keep it between the lines. 
 

I guess I’m going on I have the rear buttoned up with a watts. She’s squirrelly back there.  The truck on must sway what’s already a unsteady set up. There’s a Speedco on the freeway and going to call Tomorrow to see about an alignment and ride height adjustment for the drive home.

The sway bar did what it’s supposed to, body roll is way minimal now. And porpoising is diminished as well. I’ll most likely spring for the rear sway bar as well. Not sure with the age if the air bags if I shouldn’t just put them on the list as well. If they spongy I reckon it’s contributing to the rear sliding around. Really hated leaving 80 degree days 

461677B8-1D8C-4619-BBC4-0EC82A6F1A3E.jpeg

3C334D40-5909-4812-B106-96D830F4672F.jpeg


The Trip from Hell Update
Gary M
1 hour ago, just_john1 said:

Well things just keep getting weirder and weirder. For those who have been following my original post you saw how things went from bad to worse. Still in a hole but more optimistic. I found a Mobile Mechanic who is working with me. He's and old guy whos been at it a while. He's as dumb founded as me. Well I got sick and tired of not doing anything. So I pulled the valve cover. Now I have been under a lot of covers. This one was the cleanest I have ever experienced. No build up,  no filings nothing. This is where it gets weird. I garbed the first set of valves and the block was loose. Eureka, Something wrong! I started checking around and damned if all 6 are loose. The bolts I can remove with my fingers. They all seem in about the same position. It's like someone got in there and loosened them up. Told you it was weird. The only thing I can come up with is someone didn't tighten them up and they just vibrated loose. The push rods all look straight and all of the springs are tight and the same height. Boy am I confused.

So does anyone have a clue, o heck a hair brain idea? I plan on torqueing them down and see what happens. If it starts then I can get a Turbo and maybe get out of this town.

On the police front, the cop doesn't give much hope on finding my wife's scooter or any thing else.

Life is grand.

John

Forgot the pics.397922657_BoltwCoil.JPG.cd50afad8828333a7cfe521cbed2ee98.JPG

Heli Coil.JPG

IMG_0331.JPG

IMG_0332.JPG

IMG_0333.JPG

IMG_0334.JPG

I hope that’s not part of the internal threads from the head on your bolts.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52
3 hours ago, Ivylog said:

I still put in 12+ hour days to-from the West…impossible to do if the rig didn’t handle well. A tag axle rig doesn’t porpoise as much as a non tag which may explain the better handling. The front suspension is the same on tag and non tag rigs…my 04 Dynasty and 08 Navigator do not wander down the road., I love driving them for over 100K miles.
 

Guess I’m still confused. If the amount the pan hard bar moves the H frame side to side results in wandering, what about the changing steering input from the tie rod when the axle moves up/down??? The side to side movement is on a 200+” arm (rigs wheelbase) while the tie rod moves a 12” arm. Yes, the tie rod is longer than the p hard rod but it still affects the steering but not adversely???

Has anyone put a Watts link on a S-10’s front axle? I would love to drive it to see what I’m missing.

Tag axle coaches wander less because there are TWO fixed axles.  It is simply harder to cause the coach to change direction.  That is why you are advised to raise the tag when sharp turns are required.  The lack (or an extreme amount) of  "porpoising" has nothing to do with the wandering.

"If the amount the pan hard bar moves the H frame side to side results in wandering..."  It does not.  The amount the Panhard rod moves the H-frame side-to-side is negligible when traveling down an straight highway. It amounts to very little side-to-side movement even during its full range of travel. The wandering is due to the H-frame "squirming" under the coach and changing the direction of the wheels.  Prevent the H-frame from "squirming and twisting" under the coach, and wandering ceases.

As an illustration, imagine a vertical shaft was welded to the  H-frame and extended through your floor, where a steering wheel was mounted to it.   Have someone twist that steering wheel back and forth while you are driving.  The H-frame will twist with it, changing the direction the wheels are pointing.  And, of course, your coach will go where its wheels are pointed.


The Trip from Hell Update
Flyinhy
48 minutes ago, Gary M said:

I hope that’s not part of the internal threads from the head on your bolts.

Yea.....that's what I was thinking. That's not good. Your rocker arm bolts are all loose? Head bolts are tight though right? It looks like you have metal on those threads. 

Without trying to crank the engine , I'd spin the engine over with a big ratchet and check my valve lash. I'm not sure what engine you have ....5.9? 


Installing new airbags
Keith Richards

Keep us updated how it goes, I am a DIY and plan on doing this come spring on our 8 bag Beaver. Hopefully you can locate the bags you need, I have read it can be tough to locate them nowadays.


The Trip from Hell Update
just_john1

I'm sorry I didn't point this out before. That is a Helix Coil. I can just un screw it. No lock tight involved. I'm checking the rest of the bolts tomorrow. Never seen a Helix Coil stripped. The engine is a 8.3-325 and it turns over well. All I have right now is Lash. I don't think the valves are being compressed.


To unsubscribe *|member_name|* click here:https://www.monacoers.org/settings/?area=newsletters

We welcome your comments and suggestions for our newsletter.  Please send comments to newsletter@monacoers.org 

Copyright © 2020 Monacoers, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...