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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/589-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Anyone know what this is?
Ivylog
So far , so good
Dr4Film
Installing new airbags
rpasetto
The Trip from Hell Update
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
The Trip from Hell Update
Chargerman
Installing new airbags
99 dynasty
Installing new airbags
Mike in Va
The Trip from Hell Update
JDCrow
Anyone know what this is?
96 EVO
Wind noise coming from the windshield
tomevansfl
Side view cameras
tomevansfl
The Trip from Hell Update
Ray Davis
Wind noise coming from the windshield
klcdenver
front windshield 2004 Knight
tomevansfl
Wind noise coming from the windshield
tomevansfl
Wind noise coming from the windshield
tomevansfl
The Trip from Hell Update
Chargerman
Anyone know what this is?
Ivan K
Under-Awning LED Lighting 2006 Diplomat
tomevansfl
Side view cameras
BobSchmeck
The Trip from Hell Update
nvrtoofast
Wind noise coming from the windshield
Tom Wallis
Carefree Door Awning Not Opening
tomevansfl
The Trip from Hell Update
just_john1

New Posts

Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Ivylog

Van, thanks for taking the time to explain BUT there are 4 (guess they are P H Bars), 2 on each side from beside the frame to the H frame that keeps the H frame from twisting in your shaft and wheel example???

Guess my question is: do the 10 bushings in the 5 P H Bars wear over time so the H frame can twist… does the handling start out OK and gets worse as you put miles on the rig?


Anyone know what this is?
Ivylog
6 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Nope.

My 08' has the fuel tank, followed by the 100gal fresh water tank, and AH in the first bay

Guess I should have said around 2006 Monaco moved the fuel tank on the S-10 chassis (Dynasty and above) to the second bay.


Battery monitoring shunt install location with Xantrex inverter
Ivylog

Pretty sure the house + batteries cable is a Y to the inverter and the Rear Run Box. Everything the “Salesman” switch controls is powered from the RRB. The alternator charges the engine batteries and once they get to 13.4+/- the BIRD energizes the BigBoy in the RRB connecting the 2 battery bank’s together letter the alternator charge the house batteries…this could be hundreds of AHs that go unmetered.

Sorry, but I think you’ll be wasting $40 and the time to put the shunt in the wrong place at the inverter.


So far , so good
Dr4Film
On 10/26/2021 at 8:51 AM, Steven P said:

I like that camera.  Have you gotten used to using it.  Likes, dislikes?  I've been thinking about getting one. 

I haven't had the chance to use enough to form any negative opinions. To me it appears to be well worth the money. I like the size of the monitor, length of cable, it comes in a well built case and also includes a 32GB memory card. I like this one because it has it own screen/monitor so you don't have to mess with your phone.

Both models recommended on this thread from Amazon offer Free Returns so order both and keep whichever one you like better then return the other one.

 


Installing new airbags
rpasetto

Safety note:

Use blocking or jack stands to support coach before you go under.  When air hose is pulled, bags will deflate quickly.


The Trip from Hell Update
wayne.cerven@gmail.com

Morning 

One of my clients has a inspection station for commercial vehicles,  they service my coach, crawl all around and underneath to find something wrong or possibly things that could go wrong. I have 100 900 miles on my 500 Cummins and I ask the question about valves and adjustment and he says "not even close" one of the things to watch for would be over fueling which in turn could see lots of black smoke, if it were me I would find a Cummins (Motor). Mechanic, someone who services generators and or rebuilds. I would keep my hands out of there.

Good luck

Wayne 

1999 Signature Caesar 


The Trip from Hell Update
Chargerman

Sorry but that’s not a Helicoil. It is the threaded material from the head. With the bolts being loose the constant variable pressure at high speed with the engine running has stripped out the threads. I think you may have an issue trying to torque the ones that look like this to the required spec. Not being torqued to the proper spec by someone is likely what caused them all to loose over time. 


Installing new airbags
99 dynasty

Does anybody know how to get unsubscribed from this. I have sent unfollow messages. Tried to change preferences to one email a month with list. Nothing gets a response and my mail box blows up. If anybody has an idea how I would appreciate it. Sorry it’s not on this topic but nothing so far works. 
thanks

jim


How to Block up a Signature 40 chassis for HWH servicing
jjroxus
18 hours ago, SteveC said:

Bill, it depends on what you are wanting to do. Blocking between the frame and the suspension allows for changing the air bags and working on the control valves safely. The ramps allow more room between the suspension and the ground but doesn't keep the body from coming down onto the frame. There are probably times where you might want to do both.

As mentioned by others in previous posts. There's a lot of ways to build ramps.   In my case I've got HWH issues with travel mode leveling and the automatic leveling.  That's going to require a lot of testing of the three banks of solenoids & pressure switches to find what's not working. I will eventually be removing, repairing and or replacing manifold components.  For safety I'm using ramps and blocking.  I completed my rams yesterday and will be cutting up an 8 x 8 and a 4 x 6 to make my blocking material.  After that the fun starts...

image_6487327(4).JPG


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
jacwjames
11 hours ago, DrDon4u said:

I got my RV AC parts from dyersonline.com. They have a lot of RV AC parts.

They had everthing I needed. Good Luck!!!!

Don

I spent hours yesterday looking for parts, most places that list the part are out of stock.  I called one place that showed it was in stock but it was not and they wanted me to order before they could tell me delivery time.  Not going to do that.

The only thing I was able to order were the rubber grommets.   Tried to find a new blower wheel, again none in stock.

 

 

Does anyone have an opinion as to whether having a heat pump is worth it??  As I've been doing my research one model I looked at said heat pump was only ~5KBTU,, 

 

Also, which make/models are quieter.  Our Duotherms are pretty loud, even after I installed a new motor & mounts in the front AC it is pretty loud.  That's what prompted me to look at the rear as it was loud and I found the rubber bushings gone. 


Installing new airbags
Mike in Va

Keith I was able to find the bags at Anythingtruck.com 309-623-4440. Give them a try and better get them while you can. 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
6 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Van, thanks for taking the time to explain BUT there are 4 (guess they are P H Bars), 2 on each side from beside the frame to the H frame that keeps the H frame from twisting in your shaft and wheel example???

Guess my question is: do the 10 bushings in the 5 P H Bars wear over time so the H frame can twist… does the handling start out OK and gets worse as you put miles on the rig?

Radius arms, alignment arms. Keeps the axle from moving forward/backwards in the range of motion up/down. 
 

Ford/Ram use a similar set up for their front axles. 2 radius arms and  1 pan hard rod/arm. Biggest differences, 2 points of contact axle to frame (coil) and that distance is straight up, not 5-6 feet length. 
 

I’ve wondered about coils or timberen taking the place of the air bags on the Roadmaster 

24557552-81C2-46E7-95DB-449E112D029D.jpeg


The Trip from Hell Update
JDCrow
2 hours ago, Chargerman said:

Sorry but that’s not a Helicoil. It is the threaded material from the head. With the bolts being loose the constant variable pressure at high speed with the engine running has stripped out the threads. I think you may have an issue trying to torque the ones that look like this to the required spec. Not being torqued to the proper spec by someone is likely what caused them all to loose over time. 

Yikes!


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
JDCrow

So for those of us that suffer from the occasional truck passing, what models give you the most grief?

After all this freeway driving, getting passed by these is the worst for my Dip

Kenworth T2000

True auto haulers, ones with cars over their cabs

 Box Trucks

Single screw pulling triples, heck they barely stay on the road like me

Trucks stacked with those POD containers

Some will laugh, “What me Worry?” And I envy you 

E5BF21B2-E817-4706-9396-A53758EE6183.jpeg

B540CBC4-6600-4BE4-9FDE-48689FD1DE9E.jpeg

443B4DCC-F854-415A-8D85-8963DE89A52D.jpeg

74E09CA4-BE45-4DC0-BF42-BD5F2295465D.jpeg

D96BC987-AE9E-4E69-86DB-014FA738C059.jpeg


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Ivylog

I don’t see how a coil spring does anything more than support weight in a linear way. If I had coil springs on the back of my rig, the hitch would be dragging the ground in the slightest dip.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52
6 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Van, thanks for taking the time to explain BUT there are 4 (guess they are P H Bars), 2 on each side from beside the frame to the H frame that keeps the H frame from twisting in your shaft and wheel example???

Guess my question is: do the 10 bushings in the 5 P H Bars wear over time so the H frame can twist… does the handling start out OK and gets worse as you put miles on the rig?

The Panhard rod is the single 2" square tube that runs crossways of the frame. One end is connected to the coach frame, the other to the H-frame.  The other four 2" square bars running front-to-rear (two on each side) are the trailing arms.  They locate the H-frame (and therefore the axle) front-to-rear, but are long and spindly.  If there were NO Panhard rod, the H-frame would wallow INCHES side-to-side.  The SINGLE Panhard rod stops that extreme movement, but does not stop the H-frame from twisting along a vertical axis with its pivot point being the end connection of the Panhard rod.

Bushing wear is only a problem on approximately 1999 and older coaches.  There are much stiffer bushings available from ATRO and I have installed several sets.  On 1999 and older coaches, they make a very large difference.  On coaches with the later design bushings, the difference is minimal.

In short, the wandering is from a design defect in the Roadmaster chassis, not from wear.  They wandered when brand new.  The chassis needed TWO Panhard rods, or ONE with a very long engagement distance at each end--instead of one bushing in each end, it needed two in each end, housed in a tube (I'm guessing) about 6-8" long.


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
jacwjames

Also looking at one or these versus the new Dometic thermostat

https://www.microair.net/products/easytouch-rv-thermostat

Anyone install on on with 2 or more Penguin II new AC units?


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
jacwjames

I'm usually the one doing the passing🤬


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
Tom Wallis

I think the speed and direction of any winds plays a major part of this equation. Also, alignment, tire pressure, and suspension will make a difference on how bad they affect you. My rig improved considerably after some suspension upgrades.


Has anyone added monitors, usb ports, 12 vdc ports above dash?
tomevansfl

In my RV, I use waze for maps at the moment and mount my cell phone to the driver's side window with a suction mount. I have a 10' power cord that I run to a Sig-lighter style outlet in the middle of the dash; it's at a convenient eye level without blocking mirror or view ahead.  Not the most elegant solution but it's temporary until I can get around to upgrading to a GPS.  I, too, have the same problem with my factory back-up camera. and would like to replace it with a hardwired unit.


Battery monitoring shunt install location with Xantrex inverter
Ivan K

Yes I agree that positive battery branches out but negative should only go to ground through inverter and originally Lambert, now AMP-L. In my case, the only way the battery banks would connect is with boost solenoid and that would only be a manual emergency action. Don't have a BIRD. I am not really concerned with what happens when alternator runs while driving, only when longterm stationary boondocking. But no doubt, to take full advantage of the $40 'investment' I should put the shunt in battery negative lead. Just trying to figure out an elegant installation since my battery compartment regularly gets nasty with all the vents and flooded batteries. A picture of the install would help. Thanks for the comments to keep me thinking.

20211028_112115.jpg


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
JDCrow
12 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

I'm usually the one doing the passing🤬

See you had to go and pee on my parade. 
 

LOL, these trucks are flying. I can take them on the hills no issues, it’s the flats and downgrades. I-40 is 75mph for all, so that means 85+ for all. We saw more than a few swerve and misses between autos and trucks 

6 minutes ago, Tom Wallis said:

I think the speed and direction of any winds plays a major part of this equation. Also, alignment, tire pressure, and suspension will make a difference on how bad they affect you. My rig improved considerably after some suspension upgrades.

That’s the road I hope to be on…..working towards. What have you done to help? 


Anyone know what this is?
96 EVO
7 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Guess I should have said around 2006 Monaco moved the fuel tank on the S-10 chassis (Dynasty and above) to the second bay.

Make sense! I would have preferred if they had at least moved the fresh tank and AH closer to the rear axles, but I do have great access to service my AH, and, still have a few hundred lbs to play with before reaching front axle limit.

Have a friend with a Tiffin Bus which has the AH about the centerline of the coach, in a narrow bay, behind the cord reel ! 


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
Flyinhy

Ugh.....dump trucks with those magical bouncing rocks


Wind noise coming from the windshield
tomevansfl

When we bought our Diplomat, the dealer installed a residential style refrigerator.  I don't know, but I think they took one side of the windshield out to pass the fridge through.  The noise is very annoying, especially to the co-pilot. Once at a dump station I jacked up the curb-side of the RV to help with flow.  The noise went away until I made a 90 degree turn at an intersection and the rear wheel dropped into a deep mud-hole.  Then it seemed to immediately return.

Is this something that could be corrected by re-installing the windshield?  Or does this mean I have another, more serious, problem?


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52

JD, you said you had rear X-braces.  Please take a few pix and post.


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
96 EVO

I won't pass a truck pulling triples on any kind of curve in the road. That third trailer usually doesn't stay in their lane very well.


Side view cameras
tomevansfl

I understand the "can't get the parts" because of CO

On 8/4/2021 at 8:11 PM, woodylmiller said:

Update.  Out of the blue TadiBrothers contacted me today by phone.  They got the dispute from the credit card company.  Almost a month of no contact from them.  I gave up on them.  I bought two side view cameras from Rear View Safety.  Excellent company.  Customer service was great.  There was some mix up on their end and the cameras I wanted were not available any longer.  To make things right the over knighted by FedEx to get me the cameras.  Couldn't ask for anything more.  Plus follow ups to make sure I was pleased with the purchase.  They sure weren't the cheapest source, but the cameras look great.  I must remember; "don't go broke trying to save a buck".

Back to TadiBrothers.  I have disputed all charges with them since I thought they had gone south.  I have 3 curbside and 1 roadside camera to return to them.  I will never do business with that company again and I would advise all of you to steer clear.  They would like to blame all their troubles on the rona, I get it, but enough was enough, their customer no-service was bullcrap.  A month?  Really?

Woody Miller

VID, the parts are probably sitting off the coast of Long Beach, but there is no excuse for not returning calls/emails.  Too many people teleworking for COVID being the issue for not contacting you.


The Trip from Hell Update
Ray Davis
3 hours ago, Chargerman said:

Sorry but that’s not a Helicoil. It is the threaded material from the head. With the bolts being loose the constant variable pressure at high speed with the engine running has stripped out the threads. I think you may have an issue trying to torque the ones that look like this to the required spec. Not being torqued to the proper spec by someone is likely what caused them all to loose over time. 

I am not a mechanic but I have seen and used Helicoils before, and they all had threads on the outside portion of the coil just like the inside.   After all,  their function is to screw into a hole that was striped and then drilled and rethreaded to a larger size.  The coil brings the threads back to the correct size.   I don't know if a Helicoil is acceptable for this application or not,  hopefully it is acceptable and that's all that's wrong.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
1 hour ago, Ivylog said:

I don’t see how a coil spring does anything more than support weight in a linear way. If I had coil springs on the back of my rig, the hitch would be dragging the ground in the slightest dip.

Depends on the rate of the spring. 

11 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

JD, you said you had rear X-braces.  Please take a few pix and post.

Yep was just outside on my way to the store 

950F3A81-8CE3-4F2A-B432-8E484C0894DD.jpeg

D788ABC1-A830-4AEA-82EB-78EE9F3AF740.jpeg

841A962E-E3F0-4594-996F-FD457BB05BCC.jpeg


Wind noise coming from the windshield
klcdenver

Windshield is not installed correctly. I would have it reinstalled by someone who knows what they are doing before it pops out. You will also probably be getting water leakage and damage.


front windshield 2004 Knight
tomevansfl
On 8/16/2021 at 12:35 PM, SigPIlot said:

Just wondering if anyone knows a good windshield replacement shop in central Florida? Had the name of one a couple of years go but can't find it. I know the guys name was Chris, in Orlando or nearby.

Let me know if you find out the name of the company, I may need to get one side of my windshield re-installed because of whistling noise when I get up to 35-40 MPH.


Wind noise coming from the windshield
tomevansfl
Just now, klcdenver said:

Windshield is not installed correctly. I would have it reinstalled by someone who knows what they are doing before it pops out. You will also probably be getting water leakage and damage.

Haven't noticed any leaking, but that doesn't mean it isn't.  I kind of suspected it just needs re-installation.

Anyone know of a windshield company that does RV windshields in Orlando, FL?


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
Tom Wallis

Most gas rigs will benefit greatly from some suspension upgrades and mine is a gas rig. I took it to Henderson's Lineup in Medford Oregon where they added sway bars, track bars, a Safety Steer and aligned it. Diesel chassis are general much better to begin with but I'm sure some of them still have room for improvement.


Wind noise coming from the windshield
Wrayj1

Google RV windhield repairs in your area, read reviews to see quality of work.


Wind noise coming from the windshield
tomevansfl
Just now, Wrayj1 said:

Google RV windhield repairs in your area, read reviews to see quality of work.

Thought someone might have experience with someone in Orlando.  Looking at reviews is not the same as personal feedback from someone with the same brand of RV.


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
JDCrow
7 minutes ago, Tom Wallis said:

Most gas rigs will benefit greatly from some suspension upgrades and mine is a gas rig. I took it to Henderson's Lineup in Medford Oregon where they added sway bars, track bars, a Safety Steer and aligned it. Diesel chassis are general much better to begin with but I'm sure some of them still have room for improvement.

Loads of room for improvement. The F53, Hendersons seems to have those dialed 

20 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

I won't pass a truck pulling triples on any kind of curve in the road. That third trailer usually doesn't stay in their lane very well.

They always be cracking the last trailer like Indiana Jones 


The Trip from Hell Update
Chargerman

A Helicoil can be used in this instance if there is enough material to drill out what’s left of the old threads and tap it to accept the Helicoil. It’s hard to tell from the picture with the cap and rocker shaft in the way. I can assure you what can out of the head is not a Helicoil. It is smooth on the OD which is a sure sign that it is stripped threads


Anyone know what this is?
Ivan K

Our 00 Sig has 200 gal tank in second bay past steers and holding tanks in the very last bay just before drives. Nothing but batteries and drivetrain past the tags.


Under-Awning LED Lighting 2006 Diplomat
tomevansfl

Was considering getting the type that slides through the accessory groove in the awning tube, but I like that you can use the lights without having the awning extended.  I don't like to leave the awning out when not at the campsite but sometimes you have to return after sunset.  Have had experience with rain and awning collapse...not a pretty picture.


Side view cameras
BobSchmeck

Tried Tadi Brothers.  What a joke & waist of time.  

Started look at the reviews, all of them were old. When I did a review it never showed up.  What a surprise! Won't take the time to put down what we went through over 2 months.  

Ordered 1 through RV CAMS.  Twice the price but was worth it.  Got a bad monitor from them was replaced. Everything up and running in less than 2 weeks.  


Cummins 400ISL Oil Change and Transmission Service
Pduggs

Used the Speedco this morning near Lansing Michigan. I called this morning at 7:30 and they said no waiting. I was there about an hour later and pulled right in. I had engine oil and chassis lube done. Gave them a diagram showing all the lube zerks on my chassis, just in case. I supplied the three filters. I had them use Loves 15W40 bulk oil.  Done in less than an hour. Cost $195 plus filters. 


Wind noise coming from the windshield
Wrayj1

True, it gives you a starting place. 


The Trip from Hell Update
nvrtoofast

Just_John1,

We just crossed paths this morning. My quick departure was abrupt.  Apologies. I was on my way down the street to get my compressor looked at. The air has been leaking down and I had low air on the road 3 times last night. Not fun.

After leaving, your question made me remember a problem I had with an old Chevy motor. A rocker kept loosening. We would tighten it up but it would loosen again. Come to find out the threads were bad on the head. Had it worked on at a machinist. New threads and the problem never came back. Similar? Maybe, maybe not.

I am a few blocks down from you now at a shop called Auto Trucks. I mention it because they do Diesels and have a Machine shop here if you need it. Hopefully you don't. I hope you can torque it down and go!

Reach out if you need anything. I'm nearby.


Wind noise coming from the windshield
Tom Wallis

I thought I had windshield noise once. It turned out that some of the little drain covers on the side window were missing. They make quite a difference on the noise.


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
nvrtoofast
3 hours ago, jacwjames said:

I spent hours yesterday looking for parts, most places that list the part are out of stock.  I called one place that showed it was in stock but it was not and they wanted me to order before they could tell me delivery time.  Not going to do that.

The only thing I was able to order were the rubber grommets.   Tried to find a new blower wheel, again none in stock.

 

 

Does anyone have an opinion as to whether having a heat pump is worth it??  As I've been doing my research one model I looked at said heat pump was only ~5KBTU,, 

 

Also, which make/models are quieter.  Our Duotherms are pretty loud, even after I installed a new motor & mounts in the front AC it is pretty loud.  That's what prompted me to look at the rear as it was loud and I found the rubber bushings gone. 

I swapped to a new AC unit over the summer. It's a 15K. Super happy with it until last month. It's not a heat pump model. I was in South Dakota and temperatures started to fall. The wife started to complain because the front unit is  heart pump and blows warm air fast. Rear is now AC only.

Her preference. Heat pump. BUT. the heat pump cuts out at 40 deg or thereabout. After that it kicks to Furnace. Took a minute but I figured out the prefered settings for Furnace. Haven't heard another word about the heat pump.

However. if you're on shore power consistently  and above 40 degrees then you're saving money. If you're boondocking or below 40 then you're burning diesel either way so no savings.

I hope this helps think about it. By the way, one 15K made HOT SC summer afternoons a breeze. I was never left wanting.

It cycles a bit more often but the other ran ALL the time.


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
BobSchmeck

After reading everything that you have gone through I feel fortunate that my rig doesn't do all that bad. 

What I find the faster I go the more my rig reacts to the wind turbulence. So I have found 55 to 60 its perty stable. 65 on a smooth road with out a lot of traffic. 70 + just isn't worth it.  Passing or being passed is always a little stressful.  I  can do 75 to 80, but why have the added stress? 

 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
waterskier_1
On 10/26/2021 at 11:07 AM, JDCrow said:


 

Question on air pressure:

I always check air pressure before I leave, every time. 
 

I run 95 front and 105 rear based on the weights from the scales. 
When I left Yuma a week ago, it was hit outside and all the tires were at 110 psi, so o dropped them to my normal “cold” pressure. Was this a mistake? It’s the first time for me in the heat with tires and got to thinking maybe my wandering was amplified with my air pressure. Any advise on what I should have done?

You should never re-adjust tire pressure based on outside temp changes unless you have a valid reason to suspect they were not adjusted correctly originally.  This could occur when you have a tire replaced outside at a temperature different from the "cold" temperature (70°F) standard.  Tire pressure changes about 2% for every 10°F (assuming it's dry air).  From charts available online to estimate the changes, if you set your 95 PSI pressure @ 68°F (as close as the chart gets - it's based on °C) you should have read about 103.6 at 110°F.  Now, if you re-adjusted the pressure when the tires were at 110°F to 95 PSI, when you get back to the "standard" "cold" temperature of 70°F, you'll only have about 86.3 PSI, which is likely underinflated.  I won't bore you with the math for 105 PSI, but you get the idea.  If you have to adjust tire pressure, especially when it is quite different from the "Standard Cold" temperature of 70°F, you must use temperature compensation.  This applies to colder than "Standard Cold" also.  


Carefree Door Awning Not Opening
tomevansfl

I have the problem that my Carefree door awning doesn't do anything.  I thought it was supposed to automatically extend when the patio awning went out.  I understand the patio awning is 110VAC and the door awning is 12VDC but I haven't found a fuse labeled door awning.  I have found the patio awning in the 110VAC fuse panel but I haven't found any 12 VDC labeled for awning.

I have found nothing in the manual that tells me there is a difference in power for the two awnings nor how to operate the door awning.

Earlier it was said the door awning fuse is behind the panel above the passenger seat.  How do I get to it to check it?


The Trip from Hell Update
just_john1

nvrtoofast. No problem. I'll trade you one air problem for a blown engine! I have a Mechanic and hopefully he can get it torqued down and get me a turbocharger  and we can be on our merry way. This is one heck of a community. Stuck in a foreign state in a wet town and already I have me 2 nice people.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
22 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

You should never re-adjust tire pressure based on outside temp changes unless you have a valid reason to suspect they were not adjusted correctly originally.  This could occur when you have a tire replaced outside at a temperature different from the "cold" temperature (70°F) standard.  Tire pressure changes about 2% for every 10°F (assuming it's dry air).  From charts available online to estimate the changes, if you set your 95 PSI pressure @ 68°F (as close as the chart gets - it's based on °C) you should have read about 103.6 at 110°F.  Now, if you re-adjusted the pressure when the tires were at 110°F to 95 PSI, when you get back to the "standard" "cold" temperature of 70°F, you'll only have about 86.3 PSI, which is likely underinflated.  I won't bore you with the math for 105 PSI, but you get the idea.  If you have to adjust tire pressure, especially when it is quite different from the "Standard Cold" temperature of 70°F, you must use temperature compensation.  This applies to colder than "Standard Cold" also.  

Thanks for answering. We are all square now, I’ll leave them alone! Just put in the TMPS so hopefully it will keep me straight 


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
JDCrow
27 minutes ago, BobSchmeck said:

After reading everything that you have gone through I feel fortunate that my rig doesn't do all that bad. 

What I find the faster I go the more my rig reacts to the wind turbulence. So I have found 55 to 60 its perty stable. 65 on a smooth road with out a lot of traffic. 70 + just isn't worth it.  Passing or being passed is always a little stressful.  I  can do 75 to 80, but why have the added stress? 

 

55 tops no toad in wind. But drops to 45 at times. 40 tops with toad with some wind. 


front windshield 2004 Knight
Chuck B 2004 Windsor

The procedure used to replace a front windshield has a lot to do with the way it ends up working.  On my 1998 Dip I had several windshields replaced by various shops.  The procedure that worked best was at the service center in Elkhart, Indiana.  The coach needs to sit on level ground.  The sealer used needs to dry flexible, not hard.  The coach needs to sit for 24 hours for the sealer to cure.  Good luck, Chuck B


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
Chuck B 2004 Windsor

If you do not want to deal with trucks, stay off the interstate.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
waterskier_1
27 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Thanks for answering. We are all square now, I’ll leave them alone! Just put in the TMPS so hopefully it will keep me straight 

Just remember that as you drive, the tire temperature will increase, and so will the tire pressure.  The Tire Engineers designed the tire knowing this.  I just watch all my tires, and as long as they are are going up about the same amount, I don't worry.  The Actual Pressure (or Temperature) is not as important as the TREND in temperature and/or pressure.  

 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
2 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

Just remember that as you drive, the tire temperature will increase, and so will the tire pressure.  The Tire Engineers designed the tire knowing this.  I just watch all my tires, and as long as they are are going up about the same amount, I don't worry.  The Actual Pressure (or Temperature) is not as important as the TREND in temperature and/or pressure.  

 

Ok, will keep an eye on them all. I had one sensor go to no signal in first 10 mins so need to Change out the battery. Kinda bummed this thing doesn’t turn off at all. 
 

And you have one of the all time great engines, Series 60. You have the 470/500 or a newer model? The 470/500 was just a reliable beast. 


loose mirror glass
derylehinson

Thanks to all of you, that replied to my post. I contacted Ramco. They were very helpful. Told me how to remove my glass. I found the motor had some play in it. A new one is on order. Hope this solves problem.   Thanks to everyone.


loose mirror glass
Gary Cole

On the topic of mirrors. If you snag a Ramco mirror on something and break it off that can be fixed by filing the two faces flat and tapping both pieces with a 3/8 pipe tap. I used a stainless steel high pressure nipple to join the pieces however I suppose any non corrosive metal would suffice.


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Steve P
On 10/27/2021 at 9:23 AM, Dr4Film said:

Steve,

Yes, 24/7 Protect Motorized is the Emergency Roadside Service you would need for your coach.

New members are charged $249 for one year. Whenever I renew my membership they offer a one year for $169 or a three year for $489, I always sign up for three years at a time to get a slight discount.

Here's Coach Net's packaged offer, itemized:

Roadside 24/7 Protect Coverage ($239) includes:

- Unlimited Towing

- Unlimited Technical Assistance

- Unlimited Tire Change

- Unlimited Lockout

- Unlimited Fuel Delivery

- All vehicles owned, rented or borrowed

- Discount Programs

- AIR MED Benefit

 

Hazard Protect Coverage ($309) includes:

- Sign and drive, no deductible

- Up to 2 tire replacements per year (no limit on cost)

- Up to 2 wheel damage repairs per year (up to $600 max)

I am debating with myself about adding Hazard Protection.


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
BobSchmeck
1 hour ago, JDCrow said:

55 tops no toad in wind. But drops to 45 at times. 40 tops with toad with some wind. 

Wow,  now I know why your working so hard to improve it. I'm learning a lot. 


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
JDCrow
2 minutes ago, BobSchmeck said:

Wow,  now I know why your working so hard to improve it. I'm learning a lot. 

Yeah there’s just a general uneasy feeling all the time. I’m trying to get “looser” with my body while driving. I’d love to get the the 2 finger, LOL. I just have had nothing but mild wind this whole trip. Maybe I need to move out of the west! 

Just made an appointment at TIC RV in Kingman on our way home (Monday) will get to see what the alignment looks like. 


Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
Bill R

I am sure this has happened to others and must be common.  My first windy day in the new motorhome (new to me) and I noticed a tremendous amount of wind coming around the Samsung residential refrigerator cabinet during gusts.  I quickly realized that it is coming through the vent on the outside for the previous Norcold refrigerator.  My question is can I now seal up those vents, and if so, how is that done?  Or is it better to seal around the refrigerator inside?

IMG_0509.JPG

IMG_0510.JPG


Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
Bill R

I am sure this has happened to others and must be common.  My first windy day in the new motorhome (new to me) and I noticed a tremendous amount of wind coming around the Samsung residential refrigerator cabinet during gusts.  I quickly realized that it is coming through the vent on the outside for the previous Norcold refrigerator.  My question is can I now seal up those vents, and if so, how is that done?  Or is it better to seal around the refrigerator inside?


front windshield 2004 Knight
SigPIlot

Yes, Chris Throgmartin (Talin) gave me a lead to a lead RV Glass Tech. Talk to Shelly. 813-780-8080. Going to have them do mine (1 piece) wen I rescue rig from Josams.


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
just_john1

I didn't know about the hazard protection coverage. I could have used it on this trip. Blew driver steer, in the middle of no where. They found use 2 new Michelins and had them hauled and installed from over 100 miles away. Cost $1400 for tires. Seems like a good deal to me. I only had to pay for the tires.


Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
Joe Lee

Hi!  I have a ‘new to me’ coach as well and had the same issue. I used a foam insulation board and caulk to seal out air and bugs!  Here’s a pic:

 

91A60210-86CB-4034-8F3C-CF8D25260FBE.jpeg


Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
nvrtoofast

I ran into the same culprit last week. Joe Lee. Any effect to the fridge? any reason to keep the vent open?


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
jacwjames

When I was ND in July temps got to 105F, my two 13.5K BTU units could not keep up.  That's what's pushing me to the 15K units. 

Still up in the air regarding a heat pump, I do not recall ever using it but my wife said she uses it.    But is it worth the $$$$. 


Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
vito.a

Whoever installed the Samsung refrigerator should have sealed both the side wall vent and the roof vent.  

If you installed this refrigerator in your home it would not be vented to the outside.  

Our 2007 Monaco came factory equipped with a residential refrigerator and it had a special non-vented side cover and the roof vent was sealed.  


Wind noise coming from the windshield
Gary 05 AMB DST

Ask the installer if he uses urethane with primer in the tube. That stuff isn't the best. Find someone that will prime the gasket first then use pure urethane. I had problems for years till I found a shop in Waco TX that does it the correct way.

Gary 05 AMB DST


Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
klcdenver

Get you some insulating foam board and cut it into strips to fit the vents. I used the foil air conditioning tape to fold it into place and seal it. Do this to top and bottom vent. Do not seal the sides of your fridge because it requires air flow. I love my Samsung.


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
JDCrow
2 hours ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

If you do not want to deal with trucks, stay off the interstate.

👌Thanks for the obvious LOL 


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
lotosrggp1

Has anyone used or compared RA from 

https://www.escapees.com/benefits/escapees-roadside-assistance/ ?


Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
Dr4Film

I agree with Vito, the two vents should have been sealed up from outside air, both the side input and rooftop vent or if the frig is in a slid the upper side vent BEFORE the fridge was installed. The side vent will be easy to do however the roof vent will now have to be sealed from the roof.

Also I agree with Kenneth that you should NOT seal the sides of the Samsung fridge as it needs to breathe and have air circulation around the sides.


Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
Bill R

On it......thank you Kenneth, Richard and Vito.


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
OhReally

Count me as one "What me worry?" Cruise set at 62 to 64 and no problems!

Correct setting for ride height and tire pressure made the most difference.

-Jamie


Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
Joe Lee

The vent was design for refrigs that burn LP, from my understanding. I have run my residential refrigerator for 5 months with the vent closed as shown in the picture.  No problems. Since there is no fuel being burned, there’s no need for the vent while using a residential refrigerator.  And, with the vent closed, easier to heat/cool and fewer bugs!


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Dr4Film
3 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

You should never re-adjust tire pressure based on outside temp changes unless you have a valid reason to suspect they were not adjusted correctly originally.

Sorry, but I have to disagree with what you stated about not re-adjusting tire pressure based on outside temp changes. Whenever I leave Florida or California and head for Alaska I always set the cold psi for the ambient outside air temp on that day we are leaving. Then usually sometime while up in Canada I have to re-adjust the cold psi as the outside ambient temps have gotten a lot colder than in Florida or California when I first started so the air pressure in the tires can be 5 psi or more lower. So I will add more air to compensate for the difference in morning temps. If I don't then all of the sensors are alarming until I am miles down the road. My Low Air Pressure alarm is set for the minimum cold psi needed to carry the weight so I never want to go below that level.


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
DrDon4u

I had mine fixed by a AC guy, when he was done they worked better than they ever did. Only cost me $250. They are just house window AC units that they put on the roof and charge you $1000 more for. Call around to some AC guys and ASK!!!!!


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52
4 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Depends on the rate of the spring. 

Yep was just outside on my way to the store 

950F3A81-8CE3-4F2A-B432-8E484C0894DD.jpeg

D788ABC1-A830-4AEA-82EB-78EE9F3AF740.jpeg

841A962E-E3F0-4594-996F-FD457BB05BCC.jpeg

Those look fine.  I've always LOOSELY criss-crossed multiple loops of 3/16 nylon cord around the crossing point of the bars just on the off-chance one ever broke loose.


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
JDCrow
13 minutes ago, OhReally said:

Count me as one "What me worry?" Cruise set at 62 to 64 and no problems!

Correct setting for ride height and tire pressure made the most difference.

-Jamie

I’m hoping Monday to see where I’m at ride height and alignment 


The Trip from Hell Update
Ray Davis

I haven't had my valve cover off to see what mine looks like but I'm amazed at how clean yours is.  Has it been worked on recently?

Has your mobile mechanic seen the bolt with the threads in it?    Personally I don't see how that bolt will tighten down properly without a helicoil installed.                         

If the hole is threaded deep enough a longer bolt might work,  but I would want an experts advice on it.

Good luck 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
waterskier_1
52 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Sorry, but I have to disagree with what you stated about not re-adjusting tire pressure based on outside temp changes. Whenever I leave Florida or California and head for Alaska I always set the cold psi for the ambient outside air temp on that day we are leaving. Then usually sometime while up in Canada I have to re-adjust the cold psi as the outside ambient temps have gotten a lot colder than in Florida or California when I first started so the air pressure in the tires can be 5 psi or more lower. So I will add more air to compensate for the difference in morning temps. If I don't then all of the sensors are alarming until I am miles down the road. My Low Air Pressure alarm is set for the minimum cold psi needed to carry the weight so I never want to go below that level.

IF you are setting the cold PSI COMPENSATED for the difference between ambient air and the "Standard Temperature" that the Tire Manufacturer bases his pressures upon, then that is okay.  

Done correctly (meaning compensated correctly), then yes, your air pressure will be less at a lower temperature.  But if you apply the compensation factor to normalize it back to the "Standard Temp" of 70°F, you'll see there is no need to adjust.  The key thing to remember is that all the pressures relate ONLY to Standard Temp of 70°F.  If it is not that temp when you check the tires, then you need to compensate for the difference.  This is all based on Boyle's Law.  As the temp increases, the pressure will increase.  As the temp decreases, the temp will decrease.  

Since the tire manufacturer's have no idea if you'll be checking the pressure at Dead Horse, Alaska when is -50°F or in Death Vally at 125°F, they have to settle on a "Standard Temperature" to make any sense of their tables.  Get back to me if I might help clarify or explain how your experience doen't mesh with science.  This is a quite misunderstood subject.  


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Ivylog
5 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Replace airbags with springs…Depends on the rate of the spring. 

One person posted a drive axle of 17,000 lbs but mine is 23,000 lbs…a 6,000 lbs difference and why I’d be dragging the hitch. Also, you couldn’t adjust the amount the tag supports.


The Trip from Hell Update
just_john1

I agree with you. He is making arrangement to get it to his shop. I thought I did good getting the valve cover off. I agree with you about the cleanness. Never seen one that clean.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
20 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

One person posted a drive axle of 17,000 lbs but mine is 23,000 lbs…a 6,000 lbs difference and why I’d be dragging the hitch. Also, you couldn’t adjust the amount the tag supports.

All good. Just trying to point out there are other suspension that will carry weight that are not air bag based. 
 


The Trip from Hell Update
nvrtoofast

Just_John1, I'm glad you have a direction. I've got my fingers crossed it will bear fruit.

On my side they pulled the dryer and it was filled with awesome sludge. Putting in a new one tomorrow and hopefully on the road. No guarantees till I'm on the road. I'll likely need a new compressor in a month or so.

Let us know how you get on.


front windshield 2004 Knight
Bob Wightman

I have a 2004 Knight with a rock chip on the right side too, would like to get it replaced as it annoys me but somehow doesn't seem to bother the wife (I say she's in a phone coma when "I" am driving).  In West Palm Beach, FL if somebody has an idea who does this around here.


Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
tmw188

If you have a roof style vent it too needs to be closed off. Pull the vent off and if you don’t want to pull the collar off you can cut the screen back and seal down thru it. Buy some foam insulation board and fill that opening with a snug fit. If you have two wall vents in a slide you’ll have to seal or cover those too. That’s the problem with most of these installs they are not done correctly. 

 

DD3CAF65-DF5E-4EE1-A9D1-2C69FC5786E3.jpeg

91AE3BED-44B5-4BFD-BF50-13B66EC01509.jpeg

0B4A22A1-24D7-4F8D-8033-72112AB15836.jpeg

EC8EA4AD-B547-42EC-A632-377B3AC0CA39.jpeg


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
Hypoxia

It's a motorhome.  Some part of the heating system will break.  It will be on the coldest night of the year and you will be much happier if you have a heat pump for a backup.  I always preach to get the largest capacity heat pump possible.  It may be so efficient as to run the fan on low and eliminate some of that annoying noise.  On a hot day it will perform better and keep you comfortable as you enjoy your beer and contemplate the wise choice you made.


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
jacwjames

Well, after making some more calls and spending several hours on the internet looking at options and getting feedback both on Monacoers.org and IRV2 I decided to go ahead and get two Penguin II high capacity units from PPL, seemed to be the best price and they had them in stock (or at least they said they did).  I am also going to go with the Mirco Air thermostat. 


Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
tmw188

Most who do these installs don’t do them correctly and don’t understand the ventilation differences between the two, or they want them done as fast as they can. One of the first things I looked at when I bought my recent coach with the Samsung was this issue and sure enough everything was open and had been for yrs. I made a metal pan insulated with 2” of Armor Flex to close off the wall vent. Not everyone can do this but get creative. Used 4-5 layers of 1” foam board for the roof. This is the second roof and wall vents I’ve done on my coaches. 

FA6E16CF-7D01-45D2-B292-1418BD22E7EA.png

DB2B7E93-9258-494F-BFA1-91D824C7C8A3.jpeg

BB856E2B-856E-46F7-8C34-3C3FAE4FF743.jpeg

8F11A627-98B7-4545-91F2-CFB1316A6596.jpeg


How to Block up a Signature 40 chassis for HWH servicing
Pduggs

I have used wood ramps as others have mentioned. I needed to get to my auxiliary compressor behind the genset in the center of the coach. The wood ramps didn’t seem protective enough. I went to a steel supply shop and had four round heavy steel posts cut to measurements by each of the four front airbags. I inserted them then lowered the coach down on them. This avoids any chance they could kick out. 


The Trip from Hell Update
just_john1

Kind of like my deal. New starter and every thing else is haywire. Glad your getting back on the road. Wish I was there.


Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
tmw188

Are there Two of these topics going at the same time. Something seems off here tonight, maybe it’s me but I’ve replied twice accidentally when going in to edit and now I see both? 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
pwhittle
On 10/27/2021 at 7:38 PM, Ivylog said:

Has anyone put a Watts link on a S-10’s front axle? I would love to drive it to see what I’m missing.

Dick,

I have a front Watts Link on an S-10 chassis.

Paul


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Cubflyer
On 10/27/2021 at 9:56 PM, JDCrow said:

Really hunting the road left and right. After I took truck off, it was better, still not solid, but better it took less effort to keep it between the lines. 

JD,

You now have the same set-up,  (watts link, sway bar in the front and cross bars in the rear) as I have on my coach which is a 40'  (vs 34').... The only difference is your steering box... mine is not adjustable and quite loose.  You also have said that you adjusted your steering box..... could you have gotten it too tight?  and sensitive? 

With the watts and the cross bars, tires shocks and sway bar in front, my coach runs true down the road even with wind and passing trucks.... seems like yours should be pretty solid too.  How many miles do you have on the chassis? I'm just over 70k... and a couple of years younger.... maybe your drag and pan hard bushings are soft..??

Ken

 


Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
Bill R

That is my bad, I think I accidentally posted it twice when adding pics.  My apologies to everyone.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
9 minutes ago, Cubflyer said:

JD,

You now have the same set-up,  (watts link, sway bar in the front and cross bars in the rear) as I have on my coach which is a 40'  (vs 34').... The only difference is your steering box... mine is not adjustable and quite loose.  You also have said that you adjusted your steering box..... could you have gotten it too tight?  and sensitive? 

With the watts and the cross bars, tires shocks and sway bar in front, my coach runs true down the road even with wind and passing trucks.... seems like yours should be pretty solid too.  How many miles do you have on the chassis? I'm just over 70k... and a couple of years younger.... maybe your drag and pan hard bushings are soft..??

Ken

 

I thought the same and readjusted the steering back “looser”. Really didn’t make a difference. My short wheelbase I believe compounds things. We both share the same amount of weight from the back axle to the rear. Your 40 can act as a big lever and put weight out farther,  and mine cannot. 

I mentioned that I’m getting an alignment Monday, and hopefully it will answer some questions. I’m also going to invest in the rear Watts, and maybe the rear sway. Looking at the instructions for both, each will sit on opposing sides of the rear axle. Between all securing of front and rear H frames maybe I can get straight!

One thing on the rear sway bar that has me scratching my head. I’ve driven my fair share of class 8 trucks, and had repairs, but one thing that was never ever done was drill into the top or bottom of the C channel on a truck frame. You can put holes in the sides, but the top and bottom and your asking die cracks. 
 

It looks like the source kit drills 2 holes in the bottom of the C channel frame

http://sourcerv.com/1169-209.pdf
 

Any thoughts?


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Cubflyer

Looks like they are relatively small holes and they are sandwiching the frame between two plates which should spread the stress out. Use a step drill and or ream and debur the holes if you are really concerned....

Ken


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
3 minutes ago, Cubflyer said:

Looks like they are relatively small holes and they are sandwiching the frame between two plates which should spread the stress out. Use a step drill and or ream and debur the holes if you are really concerned....

Ken

7/16 

It is interesting that on the sway bar, the attachment point in down on the axle, but the rear, ( for obvious reasons, there’s no bolts on the axle) is the H-Frame itself. 


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