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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/590-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

To My Loving Wife
Dr4Film
Funny heat pumps…
Pduggs
Funny heat pumps…
Dr4Film
Funny heat pumps…
Pduggs
To My Loving Wife
Capt Mike
Replacement Rear Wheel Stainless Simulator
Gary 05 AMB DST
To My Loving Wife
BradHend
To My Loving Wife
klcdenver
Loss of headlights
ok-rver
Funny heat pumps…
96 EVO
So far , so good
Flyinhy
So far , so good
Dr4Film
Trucks that cause the most headaches….
Chuck B 2004 Windsor
Valid ride height adjustment
philcarrell
Valid ride height adjustment
Old Dog
Installing new airbags
Hockeydiesel
Valid ride height adjustment
Ivylog
Valid ride height adjustment
Steve P
Beltline Trim
RBRODDER
Valid ride height adjustment
philcarrell
Beltline Trim
BobSchmeck
Idling a Cummins engine
Steve P
Zone 1 heat pump not showing
Wrayj1
Zone 1 heat pump not showing
Ivan K
Zone 1 heat pump not showing
nvrtoofast
The Trip from Hell Update
nvrtoofast

New Posts

Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Ivylog
8 hours ago, pwhittle said:

Dick,

I have a front Watts Link on an S-10 chassis.

Paul

Hopefully it might be in the Bville area…would love to drive it. How much of a difference did the Watts make. From the sounds of things if I had the Watts, I could put the cruise on and get up and go to the bathroom.


Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
tmw188
6 hours ago, Bill R said:

That is my bad, I think I accidentally posted it twice when adding pics.  My apologies to everyone.

I don’t know that’s what thought I did too? I think there are some issues when using the phone app. I have had similar problems. I found this app and the platform is not real easy to navigate, but that’s for another topic. Maybe it could be discussed at the Rally in February. 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52
7 hours ago, JDCrow said:

I thought the same and readjusted the steering back “looser”. Really didn’t make a difference. My short wheelbase I believe compounds things. We both share the same amount of weight from the back axle to the rear. Your 40 can act as a big lever and put weight out farther,  and mine cannot. 

I mentioned that I’m getting an alignment Monday, and hopefully it will answer some questions. I’m also going to invest in the rear Watts, and maybe the rear sway. Looking at the instructions for both, each will sit on opposing sides of the rear axle. Between all securing of front and rear H frames maybe I can get straight!

One thing on the rear sway bar that has me scratching my head. I’ve driven my fair share of class 8 trucks, and had repairs, but one thing that was never ever done was drill into the top or bottom of the C channel on a truck frame. You can put holes in the sides, but the top and bottom and your asking die cracks. 
 

It looks like the source kit drills 2 holes in the bottom of the C channel frame

http://sourcerv.com/1169-209.pdf
 

Any thoughts?

JD, the anti-sway bar will not make any difference in the wandering.  It has no ability to stabilize the H-frame, due to the links that connect it to the frame.  You may find other reasons for liking it, but it will not help your wandering problem, except between your ears, since you will pay a lot of money for it.

Try getting your Watts link lever more vertical.  I cannot imagine a reason that would make any difference--just grabbing at straws, because I cannot imagine why you are having the problem.  I think the only definitive difference you can make at this point is to move your Watts link further from the Panhard rod.  That involves reinforcing your genny supports and cross-bracing them.  I'll send pix if I have time.  Getting ready to take my wife to a specialist in Atlanta for her Trigeminal Neuralgia.


To My Loving Wife
Dr4Film

image.thumb.jpeg.63515a400e78b08bbbab5ed79e14cf09.jpeg


Funny heat pumps…
Pduggs

Please let me know if this is normal. My heat pumps will only run if the thermostat is set for “heat pump” on all zones. If I have any zone off or set for anything other than heat pump, none of three units will operate. 


Funny heat pumps…
Dr4Film

Doesn't sound correct to me. You should be able to run the heat pump just on whatever zone you choose without having to select heat pump on ALL zones first.

You didn't post what thermostat you are using but I assume it is the 5 button CCC or the 10 button CCC-2.

Are you positive that the dip switches are set correctly in the rooftop units for your specific setup?


Funny heat pumps…
Pduggs

It’s the five button. 

I’ve not checked the dip switches. 


To My Loving Wife
Capt Mike

🤣🤣🤣


How to Block up a Signature 40 chassis for HWH servicing
jjroxus

That's a great idea! 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
pwhittle
3 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Hopefully it might be in the Bville area…would love to drive it. How much of a difference did the Watts make. From the sounds of things if I had the Watts, I could put the cruise on and get up and go to the bathroom.

It was not as significant improvement as our 1994 Sig - non Tag, but I could sense an improvement.

Paul


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
2 hours ago, vanwill52 said:

JD, the anti-sway bar will not make any difference in the wandering.  It has no ability to stabilize the H-frame, due to the links that connect it to the frame.  You may find other reasons for liking it, but it will not help your wandering problem, except between your ears, since you will pay a lot of money for it.

Try getting your Watts link lever more vertical.  I cannot imagine a reason that would make any difference--just grabbing at straws, because I cannot imagine why you are having the problem.  I think the only definitive difference you can make at this point is to move your Watts link further from the Panhard rod.  That involves reinforcing your genny supports and cross-bracing them.  I'll send pix if I have time.  Getting ready to take my wife to a specialist in Atlanta for her Trigeminal Neuralgia.

Yeah I know it won’t help the wandering. I will be getting a rear watts when I get home. 
 

I do like the way the coach doesn’t roll in turns, and it’s bouncing is minimized with the front sway bar, so the rear should stiffen up the roll. 
 

Really at this point. I’m wishing I had the read outs from the first alignment. I’m anxious to get this in on Monday and see if there is anything just glaring at this point. If not, we Will nurse it home and move the front Watts and work on the rear 

I appreciate you taking time out for me, please take care of your wife, and yourself. I wish a resolution, or at least some relief from her pain. 
 

JD


Replacement Rear Wheel Stainless Simulator
lake49068

I destroyed a rear outer dual wheel, tire and the stainless steel wheel liner/simulator when I clipped a curb during a detour through downtown Joliet.  All set with the replacement wheel and tire but Veurinks could not find a replacement simulator.  The "on line" sources want to sell a complete set of 2 (or 4).  The center axle end/hub cover is fine so just really need the big, dished big part but will consider a "2-piece one side" purchase if available.  Wheel is for a 255/70R22.5 tire and is pretty generic according to the Goodyear shop.  Any ideas?

Adam

2010 Neptune 37PDQ


Replacement Rear Wheel Stainless Simulator
Gary 05 AMB DST

Adam, go for two. My theory, by practice is, if you have the part available, you won't need it.

GARY 05 AMB DST


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52
17 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Yeah I know it won’t help the wandering. I will be getting a rear watts when I get home. 
 

I do like the way the coach doesn’t roll in turns, and it’s bouncing is minimized with the front sway bar, so the rear should stiffen up the roll. 
 

Really at this point. I’m wishing I had the read outs from the first alignment. I’m anxious to get this in on Monday and see if there is anything just glaring at this point. If not, we Will nurse it home and move the front Watts and work on the rear 

I appreciate you taking time out for me, please take care of your wife, and yourself. I wish a resolution, or at least some relief from her pain. 
 

JD

I don't understand why you are having a problem, but adding a rear Watts link, in addition to your X-braces, is unlikely to make any difference.  You would likely get more improvement from moving your front Watts link further from the Panhard bar.  If you have any way of doing so, check for looseness in the Panhard rod and trailing arm bushings.


To My Loving Wife
BradHend

👍😂


To My Loving Wife
klcdenver

Nice to hear some good humor!


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
11 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

I don't understand why you are having a problem, but adding a rear Watts link, in addition to your X-braces, is unlikely to make any difference.  You would likely get more improvement from moving your front Watts link further from the Panhard bar.  If you have any way of doing so, check for looseness in the Panhard rod and trailing arm bushings.

Ok, will have a good shake down Monday. Bro, take care of your wife, I’m ok here. Thanks very much, I’ll keep posting how things are going. 


Loss of headlights
ok-rver

My headlight switch on 2004 HR Scepter gets very warm to the touch. Probably in the dimmer resistor for the dash lights. Headlight circuits include relays for high and low so minimum current. Do others notice the heat? Do you have a part number for a replacement switch?


Funny heat pumps…
96 EVO

None of mine will work if a zone is set to AC or Furnace, but will work individually if other zones are off or on fan mode.


So far , so good
Flyinhy

Update.....I had a few hours last night to go home due to the weather. I did what you guys suggested and cut all power off at the main box in the bedroom. When I cut everything back on I heard the "crackling" again..... I shut it down then  took the main fusebox cover off and tried it again......sparks galore! The breakers are arching to the main strip. Several are discolored on the backside. I will be replacing all of the breakers and all of the original outlets. Who knows what could have happened if I would have left the coach plugged in all week.


Cummins 400ISL Oil Change and Transmission Service
FishAR

Got a text, motorhome is done. Called and asked why they changed fuel filters as I had changed them right before I took it up there. They said Their mistake so they took that off the bill.
$3155.84

Generator repair
Oil and filter
Trans oil and filters
New belts
Grease
New air conditioning compressor
New fuel pressure valve

Now if it will just quit raining I'll go get it in a bit.

How much they charged me for the oil change will determine if I let them do it next year or not.


Cummins 400ISL Oil Change and Transmission Service
Flyinhy
3 minutes ago, FishAR said:

Got a text, motorhome is done. Called and asked why they changed fuel filters as I had changed them right before I took it up there. They said Their mistake so they took that off the bill.
$3155.84
Oil and filter
Trans oil and filters
New belts
Grease
New air conditioning compressor
New fuel pressure valve

Now if it will just quit raining I'll go get it in a bit.

How much they charged me for the oil change will determine if I let them do it next year or not.

Considering everything they did , that's not too bad. I'm sure the parts alone were 2000. 


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
Cubflyer
22 hours ago, JDCrow said:

55 tops no toad in wind. But drops to 45 at times. 40 tops with toad with some wind.

JD,

There has got to be something really loose/wrong with your coach...... when I was out west this summer, (No TOAD), on those 75-80 mph roads with the trucks running at least 70, I had no problem passing them at 70 plus....even on a curve.  I can not imagine that your shorter wheel base is making that much difference.... 

Hope you get to the bottom of this...!

Ken


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
JDCrow
1 minute ago, Cubflyer said:

JD,

There has got to be something really loose/wrong with your coach...... when I was out west this summer, (No TOAD), on those 75-80 mph roads with the trucks running at least 70, I had no problem passing them at 70 plus....even on a curve.  I can not imagine that your shorter wheel base is making that much difference.... 

Hope you get to the bottom of this...!

Ken

Thanks me too. It does seem surreal at times. Trying to convince the wife it will get better. And myself LOL! 
 

At this point it has to be something I can’t see, or is glaring and I’m to busy trying to be on vacation that I can’t Think. 

This all sucks as I’m at the Grand Canyon and I’m most anxious for an alignment on the Dip


So far , so good
Dr4Film

Excellent decision! 👍

Good luck with the change out and look closely at the entire electrical box for anything that look suspicious, blacken, charred, etc.

If in doubt change it out!


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Driving a coach 70+ miles an hour?  I cannot wrap my head around that.  If you were to have a blow out at that speed, you would get a one way ticket to the "promise land".  If you drive 60 mph, you are doing good to travel 50 miles.  Add to that the stress that speed puts on your body.  400 miles in 8 hours does not include rest stops, bathroom breaks, lunch, etc.  

When my coach is moving I require the DW  to be under a seat belt to protect her from any sudden stops.  I love and cherish her that much.  JMHO, Chuck


Valid ride height adjustment
philcarrell

I need to adjust the ride height on my 08 Exec with the valid system.  Is the procedure the same as the HWH system.  I did it on my 04 Windsor.  I tried to download the file but my browser said it was spam


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
jacwjames

I did get a response from Micro Air and they said they had units in stock.

Before I ordered the Micro Air thermostat I wanted to download the App that enables to control the thermostat via bluetooth and also remotely if you have an internet connection. 

I had never set my Iphone up to be able get any Apps, what a royal pain.  I had always been reluctant because I know the require a form of payment.  I have a Paypal account since I have had good luck with returns & disputes and they require a two step process to use.  Once I got the Iphone set up I was able to download the APP but since I don't have thermostat I really couldn't do anything but at least I have the App.

So I went ahead and ordered the thermostat from Micro Air, I was able to use a discount code from RVGeeks and saved $15, no tax, but had to pay $11 shipping.  So $245, cheaper then Amazon. 

So I've got the 2 Penguin II AC's, thermostat, and extra gasket set all ordered.  We'll see how long it takes for all of this to come in. 

I decided not to remove the old units until I have everything ready to go.  Worse case I can always put the rear one back together and hit the road, not like I need AC in the near future. 


Valid ride height adjustment
Old Dog

I have a 2007 Executive and in my owners manual the actual ride height dimension wasn't included. I went back to the 2006 owners manual for the procedure and actual height dimension. I doubt the measurement changed over that time frame. 2006 seems to be the last year that info is available in the owners manual, no idea why. The 2006 manual can be found on the Monaco website and contains a lot of useful info. Subject has been discussed extensively on this forum as well. Hope this helps, Don


Installing new airbags
Hockeydiesel

Very difficult to disconnect air line while working blind with one hand. Just cut the air line near the fitting (razor knife, pruning shears ). Deal with the fitting after you remove the air bag. Two inch steel pipe 11 inches long works great for blocking up the coach. Place one near each air bag. I hope this helps. Mike


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
nvrtoofast

Good choice on the Penguins. I look forward to hearing more on the micro air. I need to update my thermostat and have been indecisive.


Valid ride height adjustment
Ivylog

Doesn’t make any difference which leveling system you have…you’re adjusting the ride height valve/rod The S-10 chassis is 9” front/rear but I went to 10” on the front so the front cap clears curbs better when making tight  turns.


Valid ride height adjustment
Steve P

@Old Dog  Don - I need to read that manual and website.  Can you post the pdf of the manual or the url of the webpage?  The full width mudflap/rockguard on my '08 is dragging so bad on bumps and cornering it has worn off the rubber on the bottom edge about 2 inches.

1 minute ago, Ivylog said:

Doesn’t make any difference which leveling system you have…you’re adjusting the ride height valve/rod The S-10 chassis is 9” front/rear but I went to 10” on the front so the front cap clears curbs better when making tight  turns.

S-10 chassis?   Mine has a Roadmaster RR8R chassis ... I guess I need a different manual? 


Replacement Rear Wheel Stainless Simulator
Dennis-C

Try to find a local RV salvage yard.

-Dennis

 


1995 Roadmaster Chassis - Should the Ride be Smooth?
Joe Lee

Hi! I’m bringing a ‘96 Crown Royale Signature back from the dead. (And, right now, I don’t think it wants to live!)

My question is about the quality of the ride. When I go over bridges or hit the dreaded pot hole, sometimes it feels like my teeth could be rattled out of my head!  I have 4 year old air bags and new shocks. I thought it would ride like an old Ford LTD!  Perhaps my expectations were to high!

 

Please let me know what your ride is like and/or if you have ideas for me to improve my ride quality. 
 

Thanks!!


1995 Roadmaster Chassis - Should the Ride be Smooth?
Jim McFarland

I have a 2009 Monaco Knight DFT 40 foot. I put new Koni shakes on 1 1/2 years ago thinking it would improve the ride. It’s not better. I don’t know what the life expectancies of air bags are. Maybe that is both of our problems. Maybe some one will chime in that knows more than I. 

Jim m


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
Ivan K
2 hours ago, nvrtoofast said:

Good choice on the Penguins. I look forward to hearing more on the micro air. I need to update my thermostat and have been indecisive.

I just got the microair a month or so ago based on the feedback from others on this forum and absolutely love it. Turning and adjusting it from the driver seat or anywhere else is a breeze and what I wanted most. You can't go wrong, just pick the right model for your control board.


1995 Roadmaster Chassis - Should the Ride be Smooth?
Ivan K

Front tire change to a slightly larger size that allows 10 psi lower pressure made a very noticeable difference when hitting the bridge joints and such for me. 


1995 Roadmaster Chassis - Should the Ride be Smooth?
Chargerman

What tire pressures are you running with Joe?


1995 Roadmaster Chassis - Should the Ride be Smooth?
Jim Bob

My 95 is the same and I've got the original shocks and air bags.


Beltline Trim
RBRODDER

So digging into this a little bit further...I see trim cover with a lip and trim cover without a lip. What is the purpose of the lip and would it go to the upward or downward? Looking at the pictures I posted earlier, it looks like the driver side definitely doesn't have the lip, while the passenger side looks to have a lip. I currently don't want to start taking it apart as it is raining and cooling off. So I know it won't be very pliable. Thanks 

Rich 


Valid ride height adjustment
philcarrell
4 hours ago, Old Dog said:

I have a 2007 Executive and in my owners manual the actual ride height dimension wasn't included. I went back to the 2006 owners manual for the procedure and actual height dimension. I doubt the measurement changed over that time frame. 2006 seems to be the last year that info is available in the owners manual, no idea why. The 2006 manual can be found on the Monaco website and contains a lot of useful info. Subject has been discussed extensively on this forum as well. Hope this helps, Don

 

4 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Doesn’t make any difference which leveling system you have…you’re adjusting the ride height valve/rod The S-10 chassis is 9” front/rear but I went to 10” on the front so the front cap clears curbs better when making tight  turns.

Thanks

 


Beltline Trim
BobSchmeck
1 hour ago, RBRODDER said:

So digging into this a little bit further...I see trim cover with a lip and trim cover without a lip. What is the purpose of the lip and would it go to the upward or downward? Looking at the pictures I posted earlier, it looks like the driver side definitely doesn't have the lip, while the passenger side looks to have a lip. I currently don't want to start taking it apart as it is raining and cooling off. So I know it won't be very pliable. Thanks 

Rich 

You want the one with the lip. The lip on mine went to the top. That way you get a better seal when you caulk it. Some people don't seal the bottom side. They say that way if any water gets in it has a place to drain out. 


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
jacwjames

Ivan

One question that I have is on the heat pump and furnace operation.

Currently if the heat pump is on and it gets too cold for it to work the system automatically goes to furnace.  Is this the way the Micro Air works.  I've sent a question to their tech support but waiting on a response. 

 


Idling a Cummins engine
Steve P
On 10/21/2021 at 6:34 AM, willbo777 said:

I believe you should get the coach to ride height before bringing in the slides.  That is what Monaco always said.  

Maybe Monaco said that, even printed that, but the MH might not be level at ride height.  Common sense suggests to bring the slides in while the MH is level (on the hydraulic jacks).  Then retract the jacks.  Then I have no head bangers while disconnecting water and sewer.  Crank up the Cummins, raise the rpm to 1200 with 2 taps on the cruise.  While pressure builds, start genny, kill A/C's, disconnect shore power, start front A/C.  Drop Cummins to idle anytime during the process as soon as pressure reaches 115. Less than 3 minutes usually.  Finish up walk around and final check.  Park my carcass in the driver's seat and go.  It's loud, but brief.  5-7 minutes max.  I can put up with that from another MH owner, even at 6am, with a white noise app on my phone, or ear plugs.  And I don't have any hearing loss yet to further reduce the din.  If I couldn't bear it, there are islands for sale all over the world... Note to self:  make sure it isn't on the flight arrival/departure paths of any airport.  Example: Try camping at Sun N Fun, Lakeland FL airport now that Amazon is in and out multiple times every night to experience true noise pollution and annoyance.  Perspective is a valued companion. 


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
Ivan K

Jim, I really don't know, I have never been in that situation before so don't know if it does that or if it even has done it before with the 5 button. I have heat pumps and AH.


Zone 1 heat pump not showing
Wrayj1

I have the Dometic Ac/heat pumps with the dual zone comfort control thermostat on my 2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor.  In zone one the heat pump is not showing up on the thermostat, zone two has cooling, furnace, fan and heat pump.  Everything works in zone two and everything but heat pump in zone one.  Has anyone had this situation, if so what was the fix?

Thanks for any help on this.

Ray


Zone 1 heat pump not showing
Ivan K

If it truly is a heat pump unit, the dip switch (likely #7) up on the unit may not be set. Unless it used to work and then you may try thermostat reset?


Zone 1 heat pump not showing
nvrtoofast

There are also two pigtail usually with two small wires in each. I believe each one controls the reversing of the pump. Like Ivan K said there are Dip switches that need to be arranged accordingly.


The Trip from Hell Update
nvrtoofast

Just_John1,

The shop was able to get me on the road this afternoon. I hope your moving closer to that goal. I'm not wanting to get you down but the opposite. Encouragement to you and the wife. I hope you're back on the road very soon.

On a side note, If anyone is in Everett, WA. I can recommend the guys at Auto Truck Service. They were honest, direct, and let me park on site overnight. Also, even though they are backlogged for several weeks they prioritized me to get me back on the road. Good team there.

IMG_3542.thumb.jpeg.aefc6e1d25752f741459af78199cd6b2.jpeg

 


Beltline Trim
BobSchmeck

Beltline videos, I hope. LOL

Rivet measurement: https://youtu.be/2j2VCm6X7e0

Installing Rivets: https://youtu.be/ZWp1_zV9xiI


Zone 1 heat pump not showing
Wrayj1

Yes, it worked previously, zone 2 works.  Has anyone done the reset, I tried turning it off and holding the zone and the mode switches, but no luck. Is there a different way to rest it?


Zone 1 heat pump not showing
nvrtoofast

Apologies Beyond my knowledge.


Wanted - Base plate for 2011 Honda CR-V, tow bar and brake controller
ok-rver

Picked up Roadmaster from Jim. a day later I picked up a Blue Ox tow bar. Amazon had a CR-V baseplate at half price and should be here next week. 

Still looking for a brake system. 

Also looking for input as to how to wire in the tail lights. Not real wild about cutting the factory wires and splicing in diodes. If I drill holes and install additional lights in the the rear housings, the housings could be replaced if next owner not happy about the extra light bulbs. wondering what others have done.


1995 Roadmaster Chassis - Should the Ride be Smooth?
The Beast

All, I had the same problem with my 2002 Monaco Knight.  What I found out was my ride height adjustment was off and that the tires ( Michelin X2’s ) actually should only be running 88 psi in the front and 85psi in the back after I went and got each axle weight tested) in lieu of the 100psi it said in the manual.   The difference was night and day.  I made a 100 day trip across the US and could not believe the difference!!!!!!   


Beltline Trim
RBRODDER

Thanks Bob, Is that you in the video? 


Beltline Trim
BobSchmeck
5 minutes ago, RBRODDER said:

Thanks Bob, Is that you in the video? 

Yaper. That's my mug. lol 

Here's another opinion. 

I not an expert, fumbling through like everyone else. Do your research & do what you think is best. Toss out what you learn so others can learn. I appreciate the information. so I'm passing it along. 

From another site i am a member of.  You can google; RV Belt Line Cover, and you will see and read a lot of good info.

How to Repair a Popped Belt Line.
Belt line pops are very common in Monaco brand coaches. They
typically occur near the front and rear radiuses of the belt line but
can happen anywhere along the belt line.
To repair the popped belt line: 1.) Remove the outer rubber cover far
enough to where you see clean rust free screws or rivets. 2.) Find the
bad rivets or screws that are broke or rusted and drill a new hole 1/4
inch from the existing hole. 3.) You have 2 choices here. You can use
stainless screws or stainless rivets. I myself use 304 aviation grade
stainless rivets that are 3/16 in size with a 7/8 " grip. If you use a
screw use a # 10 no longer then 1 inch. Do not use aluminum rivets
as they will stretch and open the caulking line in the future. 4.) Begin
reattaching the belt line with the screws or rivets. 5.) Once the belt
line is attached re-install the rubber over the metal belt line. 6.) Seal
the belt line off on the top and bottom using ProFlex RV caulking. Do
NOT use silicone based caulkings.
* All belt line caulking should be replaced every 8 - 10 years.
* Inspect the caulking on top of the belt lines once a year and touch
up or replace.

 


Zone 1 heat pump not showing
Wrayj1

Where are the dip switches located?


1995 Roadmaster Chassis - Should the Ride be Smooth?
Joe Lee

Thanks for all the comments. 
Chargerman - I’m running 110 psi in the front and 100 in the rear. I’m just going by the book. I have Toyo tires. Not sure if I can lower the pressure, but I’m open to whatever could help!


Beltline Trim
RBRODDER
9 minutes ago, BobSchmeck said:

Yaper. That's my mug. lol 

Here's another opinion. 

I not an expert, fumbling through like everyone else. Do your research & do what you think is best. Toss out what you learn so others can learn. I appreciate the information. so I'm passing it along. 

From another site i am a member of.  You can google; RV Belt Line Cover, and you will see and read a lot of good info.

How to Repair a Popped Belt Line.
Belt line pops are very common in Monaco brand coaches. They
typically occur near the front and rear radiuses of the belt line but
can happen anywhere along the belt line.
To repair the popped belt line: 1.) Remove the outer rubber cover far
enough to where you see clean rust free screws or rivets. 2.) Find the
bad rivets or screws that are broke or rusted and drill a new hole 1/4
inch from the existing hole. 3.) You have 2 choices here. You can use
stainless screws or stainless rivets. I myself use 304 aviation grade
stainless rivets that are 3/16 in size with a 7/8 " grip. If you use a
screw use a # 10 no longer then 1 inch. Do not use aluminum rivets
as they will stretch and open the caulking line in the future. 4.) Begin
reattaching the belt line with the screws or rivets. 5.) Once the belt
line is attached re-install the rubber over the metal belt line. 6.) Seal
the belt line off on the top and bottom using ProFlex RV caulking. Do
NOT use silicone based caulkings.
* All belt line caulking should be replaced every 8 - 10 years.
* Inspect the caulking on top of the belt lines once a year and touch
up or replace.

 

I am a Aircraft mechanic and I work at Boeing...saw your shirt, assuming you possibly retired from Mesa? I am in St. Louis.  After the Navy, I went to work for McDonnell Douglas as a Sheet metal guy. During layoff times I did corporate jet repair. This should be fairly easy for me, I hope...just don't need to reinvent the wheel.  Your video is pretty much exactly what I thought I would be up against.  I will need to replace the scre trim cover as the previous owner ran screws through the cover... Thank you for your assistance! It is much appreciated...BTW, I am currently working on the F/A 18 SuperHornet line..


Zone 1 heat pump not showing
Ray Davis
22 minutes ago, Wrayj1 said:

Where are the dip switches located?

On the roof remove the plastic AC cover,  right front side there should be a metal electrical box, under that cover on the circuit board are the dip switches.

They are labeled and if you make any changes you'll need to do a reset.   Those little switches are delicate so be gentle with them.


Beltline Trim
BobSchmeck
5 minutes ago, RBRODDER said:

I am a Aircraft mechanic and I work at Boeing...saw your shirt, assuming you possibly retired from Mesa? I am in St. Louis.  After the Navy, I went to work for McDonnell Douglas as a Sheet metal guy. During layoff times I did corporate jet repair. This should be fairly easy for me, I hope...just don't need to reinvent the wheel.  Your video is pretty much exactly what I thought I would be up against.  I will need to replace the scre trim cover as the previous owner ran screws through the cover... Thank you for your assistance! It is much appreciated...BTW, I am currently working on the F/A 18 SuperHornet line..

20 years on the Apache. Never did much sheet metal. Mostly electrical & mechanical.  Putting the thing back together.  I  replaced every rivet on the beltline.  Used mineral sprites to clean the residue from the old caulking. Very important to get all the old stuff off. Used Lexel to reseal. Being a sheet metal guy you won't have the learning curve I had. When I find the trim number I'll pass it along.  


1995 Roadmaster Chassis - Should the Ride be Smooth?
Cubflyer

The "book" ... does that mean  110 and 100 were from the chart for the brand and size of the tire based on the weight on that axle?   My coach rode very hard when I first got it... tires were inflated to 100 plus psi, ran it across some CAT scales, got the front and rear axle weights, seems the tire pressure chart said for those weights I could run as low as 85 psi... I run 90 and the ride is much better.   I do not believe the rubber in the air bag gets hard with age and makes the ride rough.... JMHO.

Ken


Zone 1 heat pump not showing
Wrayj1

Ray, would the dip switches on both units be set the same?


1995 Roadmaster Chassis - Should the Ride be Smooth?
rmelling0

Joe,

Don't worry about your air bags.  If they are not broken then they are doing their job of supporting the weight of the coach.  The coach ride height system will adjust bag pressures using rear bags to adjust left and right level and front bags to adjust front to rear level.

Don't worry about your shocks either.  Your said they are new.  They dampen the bouncing of the suspension system as the tires hit bumps and holes.

What you can do is adjust tire pressures so they are adequately supporting weight while flexing enough to absorb bumps.  But first you need to weigh the coach so you know the weight at each corner so you know what weight each tire has to support.  Then your need to refer to tire manufacturer's tables to determine required pressures.  You said you have Toyo tires so you need to get the Toyo inflation pressure tables.  Info is available on their website.  Too high pressures will give you the jarring ride you are discussing.  Keep in mind these are big heavy coaches and you should expect to have some jarring.  Doubtful you'll ever get the floating smooth ride.  Best to shoot for stable controllable ride.

Rick M

2000 Executive 42ft


Beltline Trim
Ray Davis
18 minutes ago, RBRODDER said:

This should be fairly easy for me

LOL,   Every time I say that I promise myself I'll never say it again.   30 minute jobs have a way of taking a week, and of course the wife says " you still working on that? " 

I'm sure it'll be fairly easy for you though.

 


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
IEMan 1

All of the lights in the bathroom and the toilet room only stay on 1 to 3 minutes and then shut off. It is definitely annoying especially if you're taking a shower and the lights go out. We just got this coach last week and trying to figure out how everything works. Are these lights made to do that? and if so, is there a way to adjust the time?

Thanks,

Dave (In the Dark)


Zone 1 heat pump not showing
Ray Davis
14 minutes ago, Wrayj1 said:

Ray, would the dip switches on both units be set the same?

Well,  I don't know.     When I replaced my AC units I just set them the same way my old units were set.

I would take a look at the dip switches on your front unit.  I can't recall if one of the dip switches is for heat pump but I would think there is one.


Beltline Trim
RBRODDER
37 minutes ago, BobSchmeck said:

20 years on the Apache. Never did much sheet metal. Mostly electrical & mechanical.  Putting the thing back together.  I  replaced every rivet on the beltline.  Used mineral sprites to clean the residue from the old caulking. Very important to get all the old stuff off. Used Lexel to reseal. Being a sheet metal guy you won't have the learning curve I had. When I find the trim number I'll pass it along.  

Thanks, yeah the trim cover is my hang up right now, I really don't want to splice pieces together.  And with screw holes in it, I will need at least 45 plus feet a side(my coach is around 37 foot long)...when you find the material number, I will appreciate that too..

14 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

LOL,   Every time I say that I promise myself I'll never say it again.   30 minute jobs have a way of taking a week, and of course the wife says " you still working on that? " 

I'm sure it'll be fairly easy for you though.

 

Being an aircraft mechanic...I am very thorough...so yes, the 30 minute jobs take longer..🙂. My wife always tells me that I don't have to be perfect...34 years of working on aircraft and building fighter aircraft...yeah, it has to be perfect!


Zone 1 heat pump not showing
Wrayj1

The rear unit is the one that is working I'll see how it's set.  Thanks again.


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
Ray Davis

 Welcome Dave in the dark,  I like it,    No that's not normal.  I don't think mine does it but I turn the lights off to take a shower,  just kidding.               Is that the only lights that go off?   There is a similar problem with Monacos where a switch by the door controlling a relay will malfunction but that usually kills all the 12v lights.  The switch by the door is often referred to as the Salesman sw,   salesman can flip the sw when leaving the coach killing all the lights.  It's the relay/solenoid that usually malfunctions and most of us just bypass it, that solves the problem permanently


HWH air leveling part #’s for pressure switches and solenoids for a 2002 Monaco Signature 40
jjroxus

Does anyone have the part numbers and a source for HWH air leveling components?

I need to purchase replacement solenoids and 20#  and 85# pressure switches for my 2002 Signature 40.

Thank You,

JJ


The Trip from Hell Update
just_john1

Thanks for the encouragement. I'm glad your on the road again, Safe travels and maybe we will meet again.  The bus was towed to the mechanics shop so he could work on it. He is extremely busy so it may take some time. At least it is off the street. Starting to feel a little more optimistic.

John


Beltline Trim
BobSchmeck

Here is the thinner molding.  I  went ahead and used it because it was about 75% of the cost to return it.  Some day I  may regret it.  The better stuff is quite a bit thicker but it runs around $4 to $5 a foot. For a 38ft rig you will need about 50ft. Its from automotive authority. 

 

 

20211029_220953.jpg


New Photos

2CD2ADFD-A75C-404A-9718-E6AAF79C0856.jpeg
Jdw12345
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