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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/591-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Idling a Cummins engine
willbo777
Beltline Trim
RBRODDER
To My Loving Wife
miacasa_2000
Beltline Trim
Twomed
Beltline Trim
BobSchmeck
Idling a Cummins engine
Steven P
Ground mounted solar panels
ok-rver
Ground mounted solar panels
jacwjames
Idling a Cummins engine
Steve P
To My Loving Wife
vegaman19760
Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
Chuck B 2004 Windsor
Trucks that cause the most headaches….
Mel S - '96 Safari
Rear Camera
FishAR
Idling a Cummins engine
woodylmiller
The Trip from Hell Update
woodylmiller
Rear Camera
Old Dog
Idling a Cummins engine
96 EVO

New Posts

Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
Dr4Film

Dave L,

Welcome to the most knowledgeable, helpful and best Monaco group on the Internet. You have come to the right place.

Your coach has what they call a Multiplex Electrical system which consists of multiplex modules and a multiplex computer/brain. I am definitely not a multiplex guru as my 02 Windsor has all standard type Carling Technology analog type switches. I am just beginning to learn about the multiplex system as I have recently committed to purchasing a 2006 Monaco Dynasty.

However, the most knowledgeable person that I know on multiplex systems is Frank McElroy who is also a member here. If he doesn't see this thread you may want to send him a private message seeking for his professional help. He will solve your problem so you will no longer be left "in the dark."

Safe travels!


1995 Roadmaster Chassis - Should the Ride be Smooth?
Dr4Film

Joe,

Rick M "hit the nail on the head" !!! Your tire pressures are most likely way too high for the weight plus cargo.

Get your corner weights done first with the coach loaded for travel, plus waste tanks empty, fuel tank full, fresh water tank full.

Then as Rick said consult the weight/psi charts for your brand, model and size of tires you are using.

The attached Michelin Brochure on page 5 & 6 has a good chart to use for having your coach weighed correctly to obtain the needed information in order to inflate your tires to the proper cold inflation psi.

Safe travels!

Michelin RV Brochure June 2009.pdf


Idling a Cummins engine
willbo777

The coach doesn't have the tendency to flex and possibly impede the slides at ride height.  Even if level especially with jacks the chassis could be twisted.  This subject has been coming up for years, Monaco built the coach at ride height, says in the manual to move the slides at ride height, and that's what I do.  It's your coach so obviously you can do it anyway you want.


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
willbo777

Or you could call M&M Electronics 419-965-2662.


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
Dr4Film

Jim,

You won't be disappointed with the new Penguin II's. I purchased two from PPL back in 21018 when my front one quit completely and the rear quit on our way back home. I also purchased a CCC-2 as the Microair thermostat was only in its design stage. I bought new drain cups which came with the extra gaskets form Amazon.

While installing the new Penguins, when I removed the cover I could definitely see a BIG improvement in quality and construction.


Cummins 400ISL Oil Change and Transmission Service
Pduggs
18 hours ago, FishAR said:

Got a text, motorhome is done. Called and asked why they changed fuel filters as I had changed them right before I took it up there. They said Their mistake so they took that off the bill.
$3155.84

Generator repair
Oil and filter
Trans oil and filters
New belts
Grease
New air conditioning compressor
New fuel pressure valve

Now if it will just quit raining I'll go get it in a bit.

How much they charged me for the oil change will determine if I let them do it next year or not.

Was this work done at a Speedco?  If so, I didn’t know they could all that work. What was done to the generator?  


Beltline Trim
RBRODDER

Thanks Bob, That's one of the vendors and items I was looking at while searching for it..


To My Loving Wife
miacasa_2000

Haven't laughed out loud in a while  Thank you

Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty 


Cummins 400ISL Oil Change and Transmission Service
FishAR
49 minutes ago, Pduggs said:

Was this work done at a Speedco?  If so, I didn’t know they could all that work. What was done to the generator?  

No, a local truck shop.

Generator wouldn't start. I changed the oil and filter, fuel filter, air cleaner. Still wouldn't start.

They said I had a leak in a fuel line. No fuel on the floor though so I guess it was sucking air? 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Bob Nodine
21 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Ok, will have a good shake down Monday. Bro, take care of your wife, I’m ok here. Thanks very much, I’ll keep posting how things are going. 

JD,

I ran the front and rear sway bars on our 2006 Diplomat for 13 years and never had any problem from the way they were mounted. The sway bars were the second thing I did in my quest to improve the handling of the coach.

On your coach have you looked real close in the rear for broken welds? If there is a broken weld that will allow movement of the rear axle then taking the truck off would make a difference. Often towing a vehicle reduces wandering but in your case it seems to exacerbates it.

Bob

 


Beltline Trim
Twomed

https://www.all-rite.com/    More vinyl trim...had posted to you over on irv2.

CH 47 Chinook Maint Officer and Test Pilot Project ZYA back when they were A and B models...Long time ago.  🙂


Beltline Trim
BobSchmeck
9 minutes ago, Twomed said:

https://www.all-rite.com/    More vinyl trim...had posted to you over on irv2.

CH 47 Chinook Maint Officer and Test Pilot Project ZYA back when they were A and B models...Long time ago.  🙂

They now have a Chinook program out in Mesa because we have 360 days of flying weather.  

Thank you saved me the time hunting for it. This is the better stuff.  

Here's were I got the cleco's. Good people to work with.  

20211029_193128.jpg


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Bob Nodine
On 10/29/2021 at 6:36 AM, Ivylog said:

Hopefully it might be in the Bville area…would love to drive it. How much of a difference did the Watts make. From the sounds of things if I had the Watts, I could put the cruise on and get up and go to the bathroom.

An advantage of the Dynasty and above coaches often overlooked is the rigidity of the chassis. Because the motorhome structure is a steel frame welded to the frame the frame is very stable and does not flex. When we purchased the 2006 Diplomat it was only a year old and I think it was traded in because it handled so poorly. The ride height was way off and when we would hit a dip in the road the bathroom door would fly open. Being a newbie to the motorhome scene I did not understand what was going on but later understood that the frame was flexing. After getting the ride height adjusted the bathroom door did not fly open. Still when driving on the interstate and getting hit by a gust of wind or passed by a semi the coach would jump a foot in the lane. Very unnerving. That is why we spent so much time and effort on the Watts link. So besides the tag axle you have the stiff frame in your corner of the ring. If you pay much attention to the forums you will notice that the folks who are always complaining about wandering and handling are those who own the non tag and non S-frame Monaco coaches. Another downside to these Indiana built coaches is they usually have a Shepard steering sector that has lots of dead motion. It would be nice if everyone could own a coach like you have but that is not always the case. Even the lower end Monaco coaches have a well built house with nice cabinets and often folks are sucked in by the eye candy and the quality of the coach. Once they purchase the coach they love everything about it except driving it on the interstate in windy conditions. You may not see the value of the Watts link or the cross bars because they add little improvement to the Dynasty and above coaches. They make a world of difference on the lower end coaches.


HWH air leveling part #’s for pressure switches and solenoids for a 2002 Monaco Signature 40
planodp

Here is what I have when I did my.

Replacement HWH Air Solenoid RAP1940 IN STOCK TODAY

Product Code: RAP1940    $103.95

From <http://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/RAP1940.html>

 

image.jpeg.a7f6d3bb5c95f025f10f551671b282a5.jpeg

Replacement HWH Air Solenoid RAP1940 

HWH Air Solenoid RAP90989

Straight Hatching, Normally Closed, 5/32" Orifice. 

From <http://www.nwrvsupply.com/158/RAP90989.html>

Coil assembly av a5983-103

HWH Computerized Leveling Control Panel RAP24249(RAP91137) -CHECK LEAD TIME-

Product Code: AP24249

Price: $285.62

From <http://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/AP24249.html>

HWH AIR Manifold Pigtail AP25285

Product Code: AP25285

Price: $19.95

From <http://www.nwrvsupply.com/158/AP25285.html>

HWH Check Valve Kit for AIR RAP6553 Two(2) Pack - Ships Today!!

Product Code: RAP6553

Price: $19.95

From <http://www.nwrvsupply.com/158/RAP6553.html>

85 PSI

RAP90570 HWH Air Pressure Switch -CHECK LEAD TIME-

Product Code: RAP90570

Price: $114.95

From <http://www.nwrvsupply.com/158/RAP90570.html>

20 PSI

HWH RAP1720 (AP15197) Pressure Switch by Nason

Product Code: RAP1720

Price: $85.00

image.jpeg.a0464d4ec4de15dd963d86bc82d1acb0.jpeg

 

my post https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/hwh-2000-leveling-leaning-in-travel-mode-538584.html#post5767342

HWH Computerized Leveling Control Panel RAP24249(RAP91137) $285.62

From <http://www.nwrvsupply.com/158/AP24249.html>

PART CHANGED TO RAP91137.  2000 Series Leveling


Idling a Cummins engine
Steven P
12 hours ago, Steve P said:

 Crank up the Cummins, raise the rpm to 1200 with 2 taps on the cruise.  While pressure builds, start genny, kill A/C's, disconnect shore power, start front A/C.  Drop Cummins to idle anytime during the process as soon as pressure reaches 115. Less than 3 minutes usually.  Finish up walk around and final check.  

Steve, if memory serves me right, I believe my Cummins manual says to not raise the RPMs  from idle until the engine temps have risen close to normal for operating. 


HWH air leveling part #’s for pressure switches and solenoids for a 2002 Monaco Signature 40
Corkman

I was going to provide some info, but I see that Duey already provided some really good info


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
Ivylog

Agree it sounds like a multiplex problem BUT I didn’t think a Dynasty got the multiplex system until 07.

OP, do you have rocker switches or pads will buttons that light up when pressed?

Congrats on a great coach having owned a 04 Dynasty for 14 years.


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
Dr4Film

Dick,

I just spent this past week going through a 2006 Dynasty and it most definitely had a house multiplex system. What it doesn't have is a chassis multiplex system which is a GOOD thing.


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
Steven P
13 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Ivan

One question that I have is on the heat pump and furnace operation.

Currently if the heat pump is on and it gets too cold for it to work the system automatically goes to furnace.  Is this the way the Micro Air works.  I've sent a question to their tech support but waiting on a response. 

 

Microair has been outstanding in email replies to me when I've had questions about mine.  I am looking at replacing both my old Dometics w new ones soon.  One caution,  the PO put a 15k in the bedroom and due to the small room size, it does run in short cycles a lot which keeps it cool, but doesn't lower the humidity much.  That may not be a big issue where you are,  but our humidity is about 175% 🤪 on a normal day.  When I replace that one, I'll likely drop back to a 13.5k which is what originally came on the MH.  

 


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
Ray Davis

Congratulations Richard,  06 Dynasty sounds great.  Parting with the Windsor will probably be like losing an old friend.   Y'all have been many miles together.  

Will it fit in your parking place?


Valid Air Leveling System Rookie Question
W7BE_Bob

Valid is very aware  that Monaco incorrectly installed the check valve. They can send you the connectors (threads are different) to move the check  valve to the output of the compressor instead of downstream after the pressure switch. The reason is obvious. Compressors can and do normally have small leaks which results in low pressure but not not past the correctly installed check valve  which Monaco installed down stream of the pressure switch. Valid is in BC so there are extra shipping and customs considerations. I decided to order from Valid rather than trying to get the parts locally. My coach will now stay level for a month with Valid turned off, but if you have leaks then not so much. And leaks are why some choose to install a switch to disable the Valid pump.

The valid pump/air tank is not connected to the main tanks or brakes. The valid air is connected to the air manifold with valves for each axle and the leveling system operates the valves for each wheel position as needed to level and maintain level. ie Inflating/deflating only the air bags. This is different  then the system to maintain ride height.

The service brakes are not designed to work when parked with the engine off. They may but only until the tank pressure is low. The ebrake has a seperate chamber with a very strong spring on each dual to activate the brake which occurs when the console ebrake air switch is OFF (meaning closed or pulled up) or the tank pressure drops below about 60 psi. The brake is disabled when there is suficient air pressure to pull back the spring and release the air brake. This is a standard design to active the air brakes when pressure is lost.


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
Dr4Film

Nope, it won't fit under the house even with the air bags deflated like I do the Windsor. The maximum height allowed to pass under the house is 11 feet 11 inches without causing any damage. Unfortunately, it is 2-3 inches too tall even with the old Penguin AC's. Bags deflated on the 06 Dynasty is 12 feet. My Windsor with new Penguin II's is 11 feet 9 inches with air bags dumped. That gives me 2 inches to spare. I will have to park it in the rear driveway in the meantime and use my 50 amp extension cord to reach the 50 amp RV outlet at the rear of my RV Port.

Maybe this will start me thinking about moving to a different house some year in the future eliminating having to climb stairs. In the meantime I will just have to deal with the situation. I just couldn't pass up this opportunity on the 2006 Dynasty solely because it won't fit into the RV Port at my house.


How to Block up a Signature 40 chassis for HWH servicing
dandick66
On 10/28/2021 at 9:33 AM, jjroxus said:

As mentioned by others in previous posts. There's a lot of ways to build ramps.   In my case I've got HWH issues with travel mode leveling and the automatic leveling.  That's going to require a lot of testing of the three banks of solenoids & pressure switches to find what's not working. I will eventually be removing, repairing and or replacing manifold components.  For safety I'm using ramps and blocking.  I completed my rams yesterday and will be cutting up an 8 x 8 and a 4 x 6 to make my blocking material.  After that the fun starts...

image_6487327(4).JPG

Those ramps look nice.  Do you have the lengths/dimensions for them?

Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT 


Ground mounted solar panels
ok-rver

New to MH. No solar on roof, 2004 HR Scepter, 40 ft diesel. On the 10 or so trips we have taken, about half have been parked in the shade. Installed solar on sailboat so pretty familiar with the equipment. some of the boats we traveled with could tilt panels to get best orientation or some even had panels on tilt/rotation mounts to manually track the sun. They typically got 20 % to 40% more output, much closer to the rated wattage of their panels. 

We plane to spend Jan/Feb/Mar on the Gulf coast of Texas. RV park does not have big trees. Electricity is $0.14 a kilowatt. Been told $50 electric bills are typical. If you had enough solar, you might provide half of that during the day with enough panels.

Does anyone have ground mounted panels and do you track the sun during the day? Panels are getting pretty inexpensive and thinking about maybe building slide in rack in basement to hold 2 or 3 200 watt panels. Last winter was brutal with the power outages. Having the solar panels might have reduced the need to run generator. 

Not sure how must boondocking with out shore power we will do in the future. Just a mental thought process as it probably does not make economic sense. 

 


Replacement Rear Wheel Stainless Simulator
nocreek141

I did a similar thing last spring. Lucky for me I was going past Colaws Salvage in Carthage MO. Stopped in and purchased a used perfect condition simulator for $40. Not only in perfect condition but heavier metal.  They have a large number of them. Their number is 877-548-2125


Replacement Rear Wheel Stainless Simulator
lake49068

Thanks!  Will give them a call Monday...

Did stumble on JAE Enterprises in Almo, KY and they may have a suitable substitute for those installed by OE by HR/Monaco/Navistar.

Adam


Ground mounted solar panels
jacwjames

I actually started looking for a couple of panels myself.

I have 325 watt on the roof but like you say, because they are flat mounted they don't get the full benefit of the sun and worse if there is any potential shading.  I took a trip this summer and my current solar definitely helped, on days of full sun I didn't have to run the generator at all but this was rare.   Plus, if there was an opportunity to park in the shade during +90F days that's where I parked.   I thought if I had ~400 watt of portable panels it might be enough to keep my batteries charged.   I could leave the existing system in place and add a separate charge controller in the basement compartment and use a heavy duty extension cord  to hook the portables up.  You can move the portable to either side of the coach and get full sun.  A simple adjustable  frame would allow different angle of tilt. 

Finding panels that will easily fit in my basement and/or making a rack to carry them on the back.  

But it will be hard to justify the cost since on my last trip I only had to run my generator ~1 hour a day, this was during the summer with long sun days.  So figure a couple hours a day of generator time.  When the generator was running I also used the time use the electric water heater and possibly run the microwave.  If you frequently move the engine tops the batteries off.    So I don't know if the economics will work but having the flexibility to not run the generator would be good. 

I'll be watching this thread.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
2 hours ago, Bob Nodine said:

JD,

I ran the front and rear sway bars on our 2006 Diplomat for 13 years and never had any problem from the way they were mounted. The sway bars were the second thing I did in my quest to improve the handling of the coach.

On your coach have you looked real close in the rear for broken welds? If there is a broken weld that will allow movement of the rear axle then taking the truck off would make a difference. Often towing a vehicle reduces wandering but in your case it seems to exacerbates it.

Bob

 

I’ve been all over this thing, and my mind never shuts off trying to figure it out.

You mentioned right height in a post above. I’ve remarked in the past that I don’t think there is enough weight on the front axle. (A little over 8K)

Looking at it when it’s aired up it looks tail low or front high. I want the shop to check it when it’s in on Monday.

Another thing that’s been bugging me; did the guys who put my TRW on do the proper procedure to engage the poppets? Is the pump staying “on” and keeping pressure at full charge when I engage the steering wheel one way or the other? So Monday morn I’ll lift up the Dip and turn it lock to lock, just for kicks 


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
Ray Davis
35 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

I just couldn't pass up this opportunity on the 2006 Dynasty solely because it won't fit into the RV Port at my house

Yeah,  seems like not so great of an inconvenience when you consider just john stuck away from home with engine problems.

Hey,  just jack the house up,  that's what they did to most of Galveston way, way back in 1900 after the great hurricane.   😏


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
jacwjames
1 hour ago, Steven P said:

Microair has been outstanding in email replies to me when I've had questions about mine.  I am looking at replacing both my old Dometics w new ones soon.  One caution,  the PO put a 15k in the bedroom and due to the small room size, it does run in short cycles a lot which keeps it cool, but doesn't lower the humidity much.  That may not be a big issue where you are,  but our humidity is about 175% 🤪 on a normal day.  When I replace that one, I'll likely drop back to a 13.5k which is what originally came on the MH.  

 

We live in TN but travel all over so no idea what humidity would be so really didn't think about having too much cooling capability. 

I did hear from Micro Air and they basically said the AC units are the brains as far as switch from heat pump to furnace so t depends on how they work.  I had one report that the Penguin II does not automatically switch to furnace so I was just trying to confirm. 

Probably won't be that big of issue for me since I can't ever remember running the heat pump side of the AC.   I also think that that running a couple small cube heaters does a better job and definitely quieter.  Furnace will be for only very cold days or taking the chill off in the AM. 

 

I did download the Micro Air manual, looks like it is pretty robust.  I will be traveling with some sort of hotspot so will have internet capability so as long as have access to a connection/internet I can communicate with the thermostat.  Like the idea of being able to change everything from the phone and being able to set up alerts, my wife as asking about some sort of system anyway so this takes care of two issues for ~$100 more.  


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
Dr4Film

The Dip Switches on the control boards of the two Penguin II's determine how the thermostat communicates with them and how the two AC's work together.

Check out pages 16 & 17 of the attached installation manual for the Penguin II.

Dometic AC Penguin II Installation Manual.pdf


Idling a Cummins engine
Steve P
1 hour ago, Steven P said:

Steve, if memory serves me right, I believe my Cummins manual says to not raise the RPMs  from idle until the engine temps have risen close to normal for operating. 

Well, time to get out the manual. Again.


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
RC2018

I just received 2 new Penguin II 15k A/C H/P and a 10 button ccc2 thermostat to replace my old 13.5K units.  Ordered from Camperid.


How to Block up a Signature 40 chassis for HWH servicing
jjroxus

Dan,

Yes they work fine and give enough room to access the rear manifolds located above the drive axle with the system air dumped.  I built four separate ramps to accommodate the drive  tires.  There is just enough room for me to use a creeper I purchased from Harbor Freight to roll under the coach.  On the down side--they are very heavy and will require some storage room. The levels are minimally screwed together so they are easily disassembled if desired.

The lumber is 2 x 12's from Lowes

Dimensions are 6,' 5', 4', 3' and top board is 27".  I cut a 45 degree angle on each step face and then used a grinder to take off the sharp edge. Each level is screwed onto the level below with 3 or 4 galvanized exterior screws 2 1/2" long.  I pre-drilled a hole for the screw  in the upper level to minimize cracking.

All The Best,

JJ


1995 Roadmaster Chassis - Should the Ride be Smooth?
Neil Loveless

After adjusting my tire pressures I still experienced quite a bit of porpoising, especially at bridge joints, etc., at first I thought that shocks were my problem, however, ruled that out after learning that I had fairly new Bilstein shocks.  The solution came when I installed (4) new Comfort Control Valves on my front air bags, they are manufactured by Source Engineering, Inc., in Elmira, OR, they sell for $100 each and take about 15 min. each to install in the air lines to the air bags.  Our '05 40' Beaver w/tag has a much smoother ride and even handles better on curves and when being passed by trucks.  This has been the least costly upgrade we've made to date!  Look up Source Eng. on line, call and ask for Jim!

 


1995 Roadmaster Chassis - Should the Ride be Smooth?
Joe Lee

Wow!  All great information. I will weight it, consult the manufacturer’s chart(thanks for the chart, Dr4Film!) and look into new comfort control values. 
 

This is a great community of people!  Thanks for the support!


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow
On 10/27/2021 at 11:41 AM, Flyinhy said:

The headlights look great. After spending 5k on tires , I'm on a pretty tight budget for now so I'll have to use the old lemon and baking soda trick to clean up my dingy headlights. 😁 I think they're from caddy sevilles? Like 98-2003? 

Deep woods off 100% deet makes headlights look new . Works on filon sided RVs as well 

On 10/27/2021 at 10:31 AM, tomevansfl said:

Headlights look good.  I didn't think I would like these, but I do.

I splurged a bit and picked the ones with LED strip of lights. Also got the LED lights in the shrouds that turn Orange (flashback) when turn signal is on. And had the throw in LED bulbs for the turn/marker lights. The kits come with new lenses anyway 


Wanted - Base plate for 2011 Honda CR-V, tow bar and brake controller
Mel S - '96 Safari
13 hours ago, ok-rver said:

Also looking for input as to how to wire in the tail lights

This is a plug/play CRV tail light wiring kit for a 2011 CR-V: https://www.etrailer.com/t1-2011_Honda_CR-V.htm


To My Loving Wife
vegaman19760

Subscribe (free) to RVTRAVEL.COM which has lots of different subject columns for all RVers.  This piece of humor was from that daily newsletter.  The original person posting (in my opinion) should have listed its source.  Stay safe, Stay well 


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
Ivylog

Lower the floor or deflate the tires???

I was concerned the raised rails would impact getting the Navigator into the MH bay in my house…fortunately it just fits.


Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
Chuck B 2004 Windsor

What does the frig manual say about clearances around the frig i.e. top, side, and back?  If the clearances are not correct, it could violate the warranty.  Chuck


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
Mel S - '96 Safari

When traveling 10-12 hours a day we average 50 MPH, including rest stops, bathroom breaks, lunch, etc.  


Rear Camera
FishAR

Aladdin Jr system
I have to back up the road to get in my driveway. I noticed yesterday that my center rear camera was showing a gray snowy screen. I'm pretty sure it worked before even though I haven't had this motorhome long.

Side cameras work.

What should I look for?


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
JDCrow
6 minutes ago, Mel S - &#x27;96 Safari said:

When traveling 10-12 hours a day we average 50 MPH, including rest stops, bathroom breaks, lunch, etc.  

Agree, I’ll turn on GAIA maps and record the day and average around 50 with stops for lunch and bathroom breaks 


Idling a Cummins engine
woodylmiller

My ISM500 would take several miles, maybe more than that of driving to get to temp.  On idle I'm not sure it would ever get to normal.  As to slides; coach is built on a concrete floor which is perfectly level to begin with regardless of coach "height", therefore my reasoning would be to bring coach to level for both extension and retraction of the slides.  That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.  Also, my "ride height" has never been spot on level under any circumstances.  For the most part everyone is pretty much on the same page and it seems to be working.  No reason to sit and idle for 30 minutes prior to leaving.  

I have air only with my Valid system, no jacks.  From time to time while parked I have to relevel after the Valid "brain" goes to sleep.  But I wait till daylight hours, run the engine long enough for the low air alarm to stop and then hit the auto level button and shut down.

Since I'm beginning to see more and more "gas" class A's, maybe the diesel idle thing is going away, NOT!!  3 Tiffin gas coaches in this park right now, OK, whatever, saved some money.  Maybe it's just me, but lugging around 40,000 lbs with a gas engine after 50,000 miles, what's left in the tank?  Re-sale??  Friend bought a gas class A, tried to sell it, couldn't give it away, finally let the bank come and take it.  But that's a whole different topic.

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty


The Trip from Hell Update
woodylmiller

That's the cleanest valve train I've ever seen.  Good luck.

Woody Miller


Rear Camera
Old Dog

Frist thing I would check is the programing set up. Is the correct video feed selected etc. Many times a button get pushed accidently. Not familiar with your setup or whether it's a standard Alladdan. Start with the simple stuff first.


Cummins 400ISL Oil Change and Transmission Service
georgecederholm
23 hours ago, FishAR said:

Got a text, motorhome is done. Called and asked why they changed fuel filters as I had changed them right before I took it up there. They said Their mistake so they took that off the bill.
$3155.84

Generator repair
Oil and filter
Trans oil and filters
New belts
Grease
New air conditioning compressor
New fuel pressure valve

Now if it will just quit raining I'll go get it in a bit.

How much they charged me for the oil change will determine if I let them do it next year or not.

Did they change the A/C receiver dryer as well? Supposed to be standard every time the R134 system is opened up.

A/C compressors don’t just burn up. They fail when they run with low (or no) refrigerant, or due to debris in the system. Did they check/change the pressure switch that’s supposed do disengage the compressor clutch if the pressure is too low. Expansion valve OK? Did they let you know what the high and low pressures were after they recharged the system, and the output air temperature differential?

Not saying they didn’t do a thorough job, but “we fixed it” might not be enough info…

 

On 10/6/2021 at 8:45 PM, Flyinhy said:

I'm in the process of changing all the fluids on my executive. $600 in filters and oil alone so far and I haven't started on the generator yet. Im tackling the transmission tomorrow. It shouldn't take more than a hour or so.  Taking the pan down doesn't make sense at all. The two filter housings are hard to miss. I'm curious as to what they charge you for that mistake. 

Sounds like you’re getting some pretty good prices. Assuming the Exec has the Allison 4000, I’d have expected almost $600 in Transynd alone! 😂


Valid Air Leveling System Rookie Question
96 EVO

Interesting Bob!

I haven't had too much issue with the check valve mounted where it is, but a few years ago misted a bit of lube oil into the compressor while running. One time since, I lubricated the check valve itself.

I've never had any issues with the air springs bleeding down over time, and if I park with full air tanks, level, then turn off the leveling system, I can go over 10 days before the aux compressor will need to top up it's tank.

I may give Valid a call and purchase their relocation kit.


Idling a Cummins engine
96 EVO
3 hours ago, Steven P said:

Steve, if memory serves me right, I believe my Cummins manual says to not raise the RPMs  from idle until the engine temps have risen close to normal for operating. 

Never heard of that!

Mine goes to 1000rpm hi-idle within 30 seconds of starting.


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
Dr4Film
39 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Lower the floor or deflate the tires???

The floor is a 10 inch thick slab of concrete which I installed an 8 inch thick fiber reinforced extension to the rear end so the 40 foot coach would fit entirely on the concrete. I thought about the tires but then each time I want to use it I would have to inflate all 10 tires back to the cold inflation specs. Plus not sure if it's a very good idea of releasing that much air from the tires then backing up into the RV Port letting it sit with such deflated tires. Probably not to good for the sidewalls, etc. 


Rear Camera
RNMCBR

Mike,

Your configuration is probably the same as mine.

My rear camera was intermittently loosing picture. I took the camera off and fed the cable out far enough to get to the connector. Then I disconnected the connector and cleaned it and reconnected it. My issue went away.

Unfortunately, the cable just hangs across the cavity between the back wall and rear cap. If you drop it, you will have a tough time retrieving the end. I clipped a hemostat on mine while I worked on it.

Roy


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
woodylmiller

AAA is no longer any good.  Good Sam?, no way.  I have Coach Net and so far have needed them for tire issues, which I found to be worse than nothing at all.  The first thing they want to do is replace the tire, the call center folks don't know a lug nut from their rear end.  I tried for an hour arguing with the call center that the bead had broken and it was an air failure, the valve extension failed, surprise, but no they wanted me to wait on the side of the road for a new tire.  I gave up.  Went with a Les Schwab tire center, another piece of sh*t outfit in the Dalles in Oregon.  They charged me two hours for an idiot to come out and re bead the tire which Coach Net paid for one hour.  Coach Net will pay to get a guy to you, they do not cover any parts or labor to fix your tires, so beware of that.  I hate Coach Net, but I have them due to their towing coverage and I will keep them for that.  On the side of the road another time, exhaust pipe separated at the turbo outlet, after dealing with the call center for 30 minutes that got me nowhere, they said a "tech" had to call me to get me some help.  I fixed it myself enough to get home.  The "tech" called me two hours later. All I needed was the name of a mobile mechanic to come and help me, but no, that was too much for the call center to deal with.  Did I mention I hate Coach Net?  I had to tell one of the call center guys if he raised his voice to me again I would need to talk to his supervisor.

Different roadside company: gen wouldn't start, problem was no 12 vdc to lift pump.  Call center solution: a tow instead of a mobile mechanic.  The call centers seem to be the biggest problem.  No offense but it seems like before working for the roadside companies they had worked on a phone bank boiler room trying to sell solar panels in the Antarctic. 

First clue you're dealing with really stupid people is when the first thing they want to do is tow your 45 foot class A, or, replace your tire instead of fixing it.  Nuff said.  They are all garbage, good luck. If you need a tow, then Coach Net is the best.

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
jacwjames
2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

The Dip Switches on the control boards of the two Penguin II's determine how the thermostat communicates with them and how the two AC's work together.

Check out pages 16 & 17 of the attached installation manual for the Penguin II.

Dometic AC Penguin II Installation Manual.pdf 4.29 MB · 0 downloads

I downloaded the manual from the Dometic site and saw the section on dip switches. 

But it does not describe if the furnace takes over if it gets too cold for the Penguin II to operate in heat pump mode.  Hence the question will the furnace automatically take over. 


1995 Roadmaster Chassis - Should the Ride be Smooth?
OhReally

Three things...

Just to echo what has already been said, NEVER, NEVER go by the manual to determine correct tire pressure for your rig. It will probably be bad for the rig and offer a bad ride. The manufacturer is the only one that knows how his tires behave under load.

One more thing, be careful when replacing tires. You can find tires that fit your rig that are actually made for trucks that typically carry loads greater than your rig. Those tires have heavier sidewalls and you will regret the ride difference. Ask your tire supplier or the tire manufacturer if their tires are designed for a Class A RV.

And lastly, don't think your rig is porpoising if it lunges down and up once after hitting a bridge joint. Once down and up and then settling for normal ride height is normal for good shocks.

-Jamie


Idling a Cummins engine
RoadTripper2084
4 hours ago, Steven P said:

Steve, if memory serves me right, I believe my Cummins manual says to not raise the RPMs  from idle until the engine temps have risen close to normal for operating. 

That doesn't sound right. AFAIK You are supposed to keep it a low idle until oil pressure is showing on the pressure gauge, then high idle. 

If it's cold out (<50f) I'll give it 30 secs anyway before high idle to hopefully give the oil a chance to warm up and circulate. Running the engine at a high idle is actually better for it than low as this will increase the temps and lubricity of the oil quicker.


Idling a Cummins engine
Pduggs
52 minutes ago, woodylmiller said:

My ISM500 would take several miles, maybe more than that of driving to get to temp.  On idle I'm not sure it would ever get to normal.  As to slides; coach is built on a concrete floor which is perfectly level to begin with regardless of coach "height", therefore my reasoning would be to bring coach to level for both extension and retraction of the slides.  That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.  Also, my "ride height" has never been spot on level under any circumstances.  For the most part everyone is pretty much on the same page and it seems to be working.  No reason to sit and idle for 30 minutes prior to leaving.  

I have air only with my Valid system, no jacks.  From time to time while parked I have to relevel after the Valid "brain" goes to sleep.  But I wait till daylight hours, run the engine long enough for the low air alarm to stop and then hit the auto level button and shut down.

Since I'm beginning to see more and more "gas" class A's, maybe the diesel idle thing is going away, NOT!!  3 Tiffin gas coaches in this park right now, OK, whatever, saved some money.  Maybe it's just me, but lugging around 40,000 lbs with a gas engine after 50,000 miles, what's left in the tank?  Re-sale??  Friend bought a gas class A, tried to sell it, couldn't give it away, finally let the bank come and take it.  But that's a whole different topic.

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty

I do the same after parked for awhile. I have found my coach seems to stay level longer if I hit the auto level, wait for it to finish, then hit auto level a second time. 


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
Ivylog

OK, what’s the ceiling height? Any pictures of the entrance?


RT 66 Ash Fork to Kingman
JDCrow

Headed home on Monday and stopping in Kingman for the nights. 
 

Anyone Drive RT 66 from Ash Fork to Kingman lately? Thinking about getting off the interstate and seeing some sights. 


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
96 EVO
16 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Jim, I really don't know, I have never been in that situation before so don't know if it does that or if it even has done it before with the 5 button. I have heat pumps and AH.

Mine never has, and I've tried it with the AH up to full temp on diesel.

Nothing...... Heat pump just chugs along!


Beltline Trim
RNMCBR

Rich,

I got two 50’ rolls of the plastic cap in black at NW RV Supply in Eugene Or about 4 years ago. I think I paid around $25-30 per roll. They had a pallet of it on hand.

Roy


The Trip from Hell Update
JDCrow
52 minutes ago, woodylmiller said:

That's the cleanest valve train I've ever seen.  Good luck.

Woody Miller

Kinda Erie eh? I’ve pulled valve covers off many a V8 and the are sludge filled. Especially the one with PCV valves 


1995 Roadmaster Chassis - Should the Ride be Smooth?
rmelling0
2 hours ago, Joe Lee said:

Wow!  All great information. I will weight it, consult the manufacturer’s chart(thanks for the chart, Dr4Film!) and look into new comfort control values. 
 

This is a great community of people!  Thanks for the support!

Just a reminder here.  You need to get the chart for Toyo tires.  Micheline tire inflation tables show lower pressures than Toyo.

Rick M

2000 Exec

2 hours ago, Joe Lee said:

Wow!  All great information. I will weight it, consult the manufacturer’s chart(thanks for the chart, Dr4Film!) and look into new comfort control values. 
 

This is a great community of people!  Thanks for the support!

Here is the Toyo table.

rv_inflation_tables.pdf


So far , so good
Flyinhy

Well.....I finally made it home and the MH is really cold inside. I opened the electrical box and took breakers out to find this

home depot....here I come! 20211030_125958.thumb.jpg.092a4476ea5aa7fa045d31f01e0a9c44.jpg20211030_130020.thumb.jpg.97ffcce187c450549df77ac8bbb76c9c.jpg


So far , so good
JDCrow
8 minutes ago, Flyinhy said:

Well.....I finally made it home and the MH is really cold inside. I opened the electrical box and took breakers out to find this

home depot....here I come! 20211030_125958.thumb.jpg.092a4476ea5aa7fa045d31f01e0a9c44.jpg20211030_130020.thumb.jpg.97ffcce187c450549df77ac8bbb76c9c.jpg

One on the left it looking a bit old as well. Is the metal in the panel deteriorated as well?


So far , so good
Flyinhy

A few of the other breakers look bad. I'm just gonna replace the whole box. If you look at the contact strip on the box itself , it's been arching for a long time. Half of the contact face is gone


Idling a Cummins engine
Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Guess I am getting too old because it is hard for me to follow the air leak issue.  Once I got all the air leaks on my 2004 Windsor repaired, I did not have the many problems that come with air leaks.  Chuck B


So far , so good
96 EVO

What does the 50A breaker (2nd from left) power?


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
dl_racing427
On 10/28/2021 at 2:04 PM, JDCrow said:

55 tops no toad in wind. But drops to 45 at times. 40 tops with toad with some wind. 

Driving significantly below the prevailing traffic speed makes YOU a road hazard. 

As long as you're not exceeding your tires speed rating, you should drive with the flow of traffic, or slightly (2 to 5mph) below. I find that this speed minimizes how much I have to change lanes, while keeping me from impeding other drivers. 

I drive cars MUCH more than RV's, and many truckers and RVers are seriously selfish, and block traffic for miles when trying to pass each other. 🤬

I don't want to be that guy when driving my coach. 


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Then how do you explain California's speed limit laws?  Chuck


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
96 EVO

True enough!

10mph speed limit difference between vehicles sharing the same road.

I haven't seen it causing problems!


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
BobSchmeck
17 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said:

Driving significantly below the prevailing traffic speed makes YOU a road hazard. 

As long as you're not exceeding your tires speed rating, you should drive with the flow of traffic, or slightly (2 to 5mph) below. I find that this speed minimizes how much I have to change lanes, while keeping me from impeding other drivers. 

I drive cars MUCH more than RV's, and many truckers and RVers are seriously selfish, and block traffic for miles when trying to pass each other. 🤬

I don't want to be that guy when driving my coach. 

All the signs I see says "speed limit " meaning maximum speed, not "speed minimum". That's why they also say slower traffic stay to the right. 


Fault 111 Engine control module defective
whaley96raw

Going down the road with our 2006 Monaco Cayman diesel pusher, 42000 miles, the check engine and stop engine light come on.

We pulled over and , before shutting down, noticed that there was adequate oil pressure and the temperature gage was right where it had always been. Went to the back, checked the oil-full, didn’t check the coolant because of fear of blow off.

Called nearest Cummins in St. Louis, and the service person said we might be able to limp to the next exit and wait til the service truck and technician arrived-cost &256 per hour (on overtime) who would not work on anything “on the roadside”. We chose to limp along without the service call to the next exit and pulled into a Pilot for the night.

While parked I checked for codes and found #111 which came up “engine control module or component faulty.”

In the am, Cummins still starts and runs smoothly, still has the check engine and stop engine lights.

Trying to determine if we should chance  60 miles to nearest Cummins at 45 mph or call roadside assistance for a tow?

Anyone ever had an “engine control module problem”?

Whaley 96 raw

 


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
Paul A.

This formula was very popular when we full timed for 10 years. 3x3 or 4x4 or 5x5. Leave at 9 and in by 3= 300Miles, leave by 8 and in by 4= 400 miles, leave by 7 and in by 5= 500 miles. Includes stops for what ever. I cruised at 61-62 MPH. Best sweet spot for Maximum MPG. ISX 525, 07 Executive.

zpfile001.jpg


Fault 111 Engine control module defective
JohnnyDiesel

I looked up code 111 on the Cummins app and it says it's due to internal failure of ecm circuits or supply voltage. Interesting that you say the engine still runs as the app says condition is a no start.

I'm a retired auto mechanic and IMHO if it runs with good oil psi and normal temp, I'd drive it without worries. Hope that helps. Good luck.

 


Fault 111 Engine control module defective
BradHend

Sorry to hear of your problems, I did a search as well off the Cummins quick-serve site to see if I could help at all, but doesn’t look like there’s much you can do.  

ShopTalk for the fault from Cummins states:

This fault code can only be caused by an internal ECM problem. Repairs are not possible for the ECM.”

Possible reason states:

Engine Control Module - critical internal failure. Error internal to the ECM related to memory hardware failures or internal ECM voltage supply circuits. Engine may not start. 

Not sure what you should do.  If it’s running okay, I would probably chance it if it’s not too far.  
Good luck, keep us posted.  

 


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
JDCrow
43 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said:

Driving significantly below the prevailing traffic speed makes YOU a road hazard. 

As long as you're not exceeding your tires speed rating, you should drive with the flow of traffic, or slightly (2 to 5mph) below. I find that this speed minimizes how much I have to change lanes, while keeping me from impeding other drivers. 

I drive cars MUCH more than RV's, and many truckers and RVers are seriously selfish, and block traffic for miles when trying to pass each other. 🤬

I don't want to be that guy when driving my coach. 

I can’t drive that fast, that’s the point. My coach is not able to. I have the thread open in the suspension part of the forum 

Almost 50, kinda got the whole driving thing figured out 

Uggg, I kinda wanted this to be a fun thread about trucks and such. 

16 minutes ago, Paul A. said:

This formula was very popular when we full timed for 10 years. 3x3 or 4x4 or 5x5. Leave at 9 and in by 3= 300Miles, leave by 8 and in by 4= 400 miles, leave by 7 and in by 5= 500 miles. Includes stops for what ever. I cruised at 61-62 MPH. Best sweet spot for Maximum MPG. ISX 525, 07 Executive.

zpfile001.jpg

Pretty slick. My Dip isn’t as tech. GAIA app has great maps, for on/off-road and can track any route intake, Coach, truck, bike, foot. 
 

For those who are kinda curious. It’s a great app

4F6E1D87-2D03-4CEC-96A0-07AF44F02EFF.jpeg

FE33A68E-29DA-493F-B51B-531C0A7AD682.jpeg


Idling a Cummins engine
willbo777
2 hours ago, woodylmiller said:

 

I have air only with my Valid system, no jacks.  From time to time while parked I have to relevel after the Valid "brain" goes to sleep.  But I wait till daylight hours, run the engine long enough for the low air alarm to stop and then hit the auto level button and shut down.

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty

I have a Valid system as well although I also have hydraulic jacks which I seldom use.  Your statement is confusing me.  When I level I hit Auto, and when the light goes from steady to blink  I shut off the coach.  It is still blinking after the engine is stopped and every 2 hours it wakes up and checks level, and if needed relevels.  After some time if it needs air to relevel the aux pump comes on.  I don't understand "goes to sleep"?  And doesn't your aux pump work?  I never start the coach to air up.  Just curious.

 


2215 fault code
BradHend

Update on the 2215 fault:

The MoHo is alive again! Installed the new CP3 pump, ensured the supply side was clear of air (I had previously changed the fuel filters as first step of troubleshooting) and she fired on the third crank. Took her for a test drive for some diesel and she seems to be running just fine.  
Little tip for anyone who has to change their CP3 with the same setup as me however… When you loosen the rail supply line clamp that is right beside the pump, don’t use a 10mm ratchet wrench that only works one way (no ratchet selection) like I did. 🤬 I was loosening it off in the dark with a flashlight and just as it was getting loose and I figured it would come out, it started getting tight again:

4623A388-A99A-405C-9796-8CC10243620D.thumb.jpeg.abbd8fe5387fe9cc89e91ec9c1046402.jpeg
 

Yup.  Got it wedged up on the hose connector and couldn’t get the darn bolt out.  Silver lining was that it was a swivel wrench, so I was able to separate it and hand turn it in enough until the ratchet piece could fall off.  Bit of a pain, but lesson learned none the less.  
Thanks again everyone for the input.  Truly appreciated and so lucky to have access to a site like this.  


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Chuck B 2004 Windsor

There is a national pool of providers that the various road side insurance companies use.  Those providers tells the insurance company how much the insurance company pays them for their service.  I once had a flat tire in my home driveway. I lived in a large metro area with a million population.  The lowest bid provider was a 3 hour away drive.  There were about 25 providers within a 20 mile drive from my house.  Guess which service company got the dispatch?   Chuck

OPPs.  The insurance company tells the providers how much pay they receive.  Sorry


Zone 1 heat pump not showing
vito.a

Probably a different model than yours but the dip switches are the same.  Look at Fig 23 on page 13.

6/14/18 640312 640315 CCC 2 3312020 Electronic Control Kit Ducted 3105007 Air Conditioner Installation Instructions (dometic.com)

On this model switch #7 is for the heat pump.  As Ray said, they are delicate.  

What is difficult to understand is if it worked before, the dip switch didn't move by itself.  I'd clean ALL the RJ11 (telephone cord) connections with some contact cleaner and do a thermostat rest.  Black switch on the bottom off.  Hold down top and bottom buttons while turning it back on.  FF in display.  Then release and check your options.  

Best of luck!


Fault 111 Engine control module defective
DrDon4u

Try calling DAVE'S DIESEL DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE at 605-999-0720. Dave has been working on diesel engines for over 50 years. Maybe he can help.


Idling a Cummins engine
Steven P

From my manual:  I know high speed idle is not the same as no load, but this is what my manual says.  I'm pretty sure I remember someone who has done this way longer than I have saying he doesn't high idle until his Temps are up.  Another sentence says to use the high idle. 

20211030_150213.jpg

20211030_150725.jpg


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
Cubflyer
1 hour ago, BobSchmeck said:

All the signs I see says "speed limit " meaning maximum speed, not "speed minimum". That's why they also say slower traffic stay to the right.

If only they would 'stay to the right'...... and not initiate a pass on a hill, up or down, unless you have enough "wheaties" to do it (actually pass)...


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
jacwjames

I emailed someone who installed the Penguin II high capacity AC/Heat pump.  

He said that if it gets too cold for the heat pump it shuts down and the furnace starts up. 

So there ya go, now you know, problem solved. 


Wanted - Base plate for 2011 Honda CR-V, tow bar and brake controller
hex_nut

All the CRV's I have converted to toads ('99, '06 and '13), had an open port in the taillight housings.  The port is molded in but not drilled open (for use in European vehicles).  It is an easy task to open up that port and put in another bulb totally separate from the vehicles wiring (I do not like cutting into the wiring harness to install diodes).  (A cheap trailer wiring kit from Harbor Freight with LED bulbs and sockets completes the objective.)  Also, I happen to have an old style NSA Readybrake inertia type brake unit in my garage that I no longer use.  You may have it if you want to stop by and pick it up (I live in Tulsa).  You would have to purchase a cable kit in order to install it on your vehicle (NSA RB-011, about $65 on Ebay).  Drop me an E-mail if you are interested.

Richard    hex_nut@yahoo.com

 

 


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Steve P

Woody - I'm sure they'd be more helpful or we might get a Tier 2 tech who knows RV's if we coughed up the add'l $370/yr for Hazard Protection... right?  Sorry, I couldn't resist.   I hope I never need them, but if I do, the tow company better know their stuff!  Best regards - Steve


So far , so good
jacwjames

You were very lucky, surprise it didn't catch fire. 

Hope your able to find the same make/model box or compatible one. 

Good question, what is the other small 50 amp breaker for?


So far , so good
Flyinhy
3 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

You were very lucky, surprise it didn't catch fire. 

Hope your able to find the same make/model box or compatible one. 

Good question, what is the other small 50 amp breaker for?

Man!!!! Lucky isn't the word for it.....Found the same box at home depot. 68 bucks....easy swap. 

The 50 amp single is for the floor heater.20211030_162118.thumb.jpg.a5c541901063c16bf19fd9e3f075bdad.jpg


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
Dr4Film

Maximum ceiling height is 11 feet 11 inches.

IMG_1557.JPG


Inspection Camera
jacwjames

There was another thread discussing an electrical problem and the subject of inspection cameras came up.  A little off topic.

I suggested this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/264797559966?hash=item3da72a1c9e:g:6ucAAOSwcLBfClPA

I didn't have one so I decided for the cost it would be worth trying so I ordered one.  It came in today.  It is suppose to be for Windows/ iso androdid based phone which I don't have so I hoped it would work on my Microsoft tablet I just got, it didn't, I didn't have access to internet so could investigate adding a device.  But I have a Dell Laptop so I tried it, it accepted the device and set it up without a problem.  Seems to have pretty good resolution, the camera is lighted so it can look into dark areas, and the cable (5M) is semi rigid so you can push it in (no sure how far. 

So looks like a decent value, may not be as easy to handle vs a small display but I tested and I can take a video and then play it back.

I'm going to play with it tomorrow and do an inspection of the AC duct, since I'm installing new AC units it wouldn't hurt to make sure the duct work is clear. 


Idling a Cummins engine
David White
9 minutes ago, Steven P said:

From my manual:  I know high speed idle is not the same as no load, but this is what my manual says.  I'm pretty sure I remember someone who has done this way longer than I have saying he doesn't high idle until his Temps are up.  Another sentence says to use the high idle. 

20211030_150213.jpg

20211030_150725.jpg

I assume this is the Monaco manual, not Cummins.  If my memory is correct, all the Cummins reps I’ve heard during presentations at Monacoers Gatherings, and others, state that only a short time idle is needed before increased idle to get air up. That is usually a question someone asks.  In fact, they don’t call for a 5 minute warmup before moving because you’re normally adequately warmed up by the time you leave a site to exit campground and getting on the road.


So far , so good
jacwjames

Go buy a lottery ticket, you may win!!


So far , so good
Dr4Film

New box and all new breakers is what I would do. That way you start fresh with with all new electrical supply panel and contents.


So far , so good
Flyinhy
3 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Go buy a lottery ticket, you may win!!

My nickname isn't "hard luck Chuck" for nothing......

Just now, Dr4Film said:

New box and all new breakers is what I would do. That way you start fresh with with all new electrical supply panel and contents.

I did.....I just finished. The only breaker I didn't replace was the 50amp single....I couldn't find one. I will just leave it off for now. 


Idling a Cummins engine
saflyer
6 hours ago, Steve P said:

Well, time to get out the manual. Again.

At a rally I attended the Cummins rep said it’s OK to drive before 150°F coolant temp, just don’t floorboard it. If on a lower speed limit road with light traffic I sometimes start driving but limit the RPM to about 1500 until 150° coolant temp. (For some reason I believe my HR manual says 160°.)

Ed         
‘05 HR Ambassador 


2215 fault code
Flyinhy

And you put a reman/refurb in right? Be on the lookout for a spare....lol

Good job 👏 👍 


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
Ivylog

Time to enlarge the deck.


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
Dr4Film

The deck height is 12 feet. The house ceiling height is 12 feet. There is a border between the deck and the ceiling which is 11 feet 11 inches. The Dynasty is 12 feet with deflated air bags. No way no how...

New one story house with a RV Port built off to the side works for me.


Idling a Cummins engine
RoadTripper2084
57 minutes ago, Steven P said:

From my manual:  I know high speed idle is not the same as no load, but this is what my manual says.  I'm pretty sure I remember someone who has done this way longer than I have saying he doesn't high idle until his Temps are up.  Another sentence says to use the high idle. 

20211030_150213.jpg

20211030_150725.jpg

Yeah, so "no load" means not driving (by my interpretation, anyway). So fast idle is fine so long as you have oil pressure registering before you engage it.

I've also read in my manual that you can use the PAC brake to accelerate engine warmup by engaging it during idle. I've never tried that yet since I'm usually running around doing other things and not sitting there to push the floor switch for the PAC brake.

 

 

 

 


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
96 EVO

Yeah, I don't know if that is just a feature with propane forced air furnaces.

Like I said, I've tried to get mine to switch to Aqua Hot heat, unsuccessfully. Maybe there are dip switches in the heat pumps that need to be set for this to happen.


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
IEMan 1

Hello, It does have the multiplex in the closet.

Do you think it has to do with the DIP switches on the multiplex modules?


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
redstickbill

Dave, be very careful about messing with the multiplex system unless you have a computer back-up of the system. As was mentioned, Frank McElroy or M&M Electronics are your best places for help. I have a back-up of my multiplex system that Bill G put on a flash drive for me several years ago.

Richard, congratulations on the "new" coach, I am sure you will like it as well as I like my 07.

Bill B 07 Dynasty


Can’t pull side awning out
Irishman1

I can’t seem to disengage the brake lever to deploy the manual side swing. It only seems to move forward or back about 1/4 inch. Any ideas?


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
Chargerman

Don’t mess with the DIP switches or you will really be in deep s***. One of the first things M&M recommended to me when my bath fan kept turning on and off was to get rid of all of the fluorescent ballasts. I converted mine over to LED. I ended up taking my Coach to them for another issue. They are the best and fixed me up in one day


Can’t pull side awning out
Gary M

I had to get on a ladder with some lube and twist drum back and forth while messing with the lever to brake it loose.


Inspection Camera
Gary 05 AMB DST

You could put a light into one duct opening and look down with a mirror in others.

Gary 05 AMB DST


Bathroom Lights and Vanity lights Time Out. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV
Hypoxia

Look at the multiplex modules and see which one lights up when that  light switch is turned on.  Once identified, if there is an empty position on that module you can move the wire to the empty position and see if it works.  If you have the same module in another position you can swap it for troubleshooting.  If you do that make sure to record any dip switch positions.

Intellitec MPX Output Module 00-00844-120.pdf


Rear Camera
Tom Wallis

If you're talking some picture but very foggy to the point you can't see much, mine will do that when I'm in wet conditions in which case I can just wipe it off.


Replacement bolts and bushings on Lippert 2 step model
ok-rver

New to us MH, 2004 HR Scepter. The steps were held up with a bungee cord when we checked out the MH. Condition of purchase was that steps worked correctly. Little did I know, there is more to steps than just the motor moving the steps in and out.

6 of the 12 bolts had been replaced with 5/16" bolts and double nutted to keep every thing in place and one additional bolt thread was bunged up and not usable. Lippert sells the shoulder bolt, flanged bushing, washer, nut for $17 an assembly. over a $100 for parts seemed a little expensive. Measured shoulder bolt and pretty much exact replacement available. Washer has 0.4" hole and is .025" thick. Nominal washer is around 0.05" thick. Flanged bushing available in .25 or .5 length. Original bushing in step is only .312" long. Flanged nuts available.

I bought 10 of the .5" long bushings, 8 shoulder bolts, and way too many washers and flanged nuts for $60 delivered from McMaster-Carr. Needed to come up with a way to cut the bushings to .312" OAL. Digging thru my junk box I came up with a packet of 3/8" anchor bolts. Slide flanged end of bushing on first then washer and nut. Nice thing about these anchor bolts is there is a taper at the transition from the thread to the wedging part that the bushing would just slide up on. Chucked in drill, tightened the nut just a bit. Added spacer to the side of a hack saw blade to cut the bushing to length while spinning with the drill. This can be dangerous if the blade grabs and starts spinning around so I am not recommending you do it this way. If you do cut bushings off, find a safe way. Cleaned up cut end of bushing by pulling down a mill file. First pic shows bushing, washer and nut on the anchor bolt chucked in drill just before the bushing was cut into 2 pieces. A shoulder bolt, washer and cut to length bushing are next to it.

It is best for a bushing to only rotate against a smooth surface, like the shoulder bolt inside the bushing. The inside of the holes in the step frame are not very smooth and a bit oversize so looked for a way to expand the bushing to fit a bit tighter in the hole. Found a 3/8" diameter punch with a nice taper. In the picture, the bushing (flange exposed) is installed thru the hole in the step linkage. The shinny cylinder is a deep socket that just fit on the the punch. Set the end of the socket on concrete, slide all the surfaces together, whack the punch a couple of times with a hammer and the taper on the punch expands the end of the bushing opposite the flange. The flange on the bushing is used to space between the step frame members. 

The length of the combined bushing and washer has to be less than the .375" bolt shoulder length so that when the nut is pulled up tight, the bushing and frame member can swivel. My measurements showed .04" clearance with the factory parts. The thicker washer has taken up .03" of this. Keeping this clean and lubed will be important. At .312" OAL, the sleeve that fits into the .25" thick linkage is .25" long (.312 OAL minus .062" length of the flange) so it's not just cutting the bushing shorter. The original thinner washers are all dished out, maybe from the frame twisting on loose bolts.  This is one of the reasons I went with thicker washers.

One of my original bolts did not have a nut, the thread was just hung up in the hole and might have contributed to a nasty fall if it had slipped out. Several of the nuts on "good" bolts were loose and over of time probably would have come off. McMaster had grade 5 and grade 8 shoulder bolts. I bought the G8. The normal bolt was out of stock and McM recommended a replacement that was available. The difference is that these shoulder bolts have a Nylock insert that should keep the nut from backing off. Maybe $.50 more expensive.

WD40 has a no drip grease in an aerosol can. I used this as I was assembling parts. 

If you are local to Tulsa, I have nuts and washers to spare. A bushing and shoulder bolt are under $7 plus shipping.  Might even throw in a anchor bolt if you can come up with a safe way to cut the bushing to length. I can send part numbers if you send me a PM.

My wife never calls me cheap but does say I sometimes have difficultly letting go of money. I now have a few spares for the future, learned a few things, feel good about taking on a project and getting it resolved, and saved a few buck. Step is now pretty solid without the movement from the undersize bolts and no bushings. Mission accomplished.

HRS step bushing mandrel finished.jpeg

HRS step bushing tapered punch.jpeg


Can’t pull side awning out
Irishman1

Thanks, that’s good advice!


RT 66 Ash Fork to Kingman
JetAburner

Have driven it a few times. Seligman to Kingman. Last was in 2016. Road was in very good shape. Stop in to go through the Grand Canyon Caverns. And they have a real nice rv park. Sites have power. You won't be disappointed. 


So far , so good
JDCrow
3 hours ago, Flyinhy said:

Man!!!! Lucky isn't the word for it.....Found the same box at home depot. 68 bucks....easy swap. 

The 50 amp single is for the floor heater.20211030_162118.thumb.jpg.a5c541901063c16bf19fd9e3f075bdad.jpg

Wow 


Can’t pull side awning out
Wrayj1

I carry a can of blaster for those problems, it needs to set a few minutes.


Replacement bolts and bushings on Lippert 2 step model
JFitzloff

I got mine on Amizon!

 

Lippert Components - 216567 Motorized Step Wet Bolt Replacement Kit for Coach Step

 
 
 
  1. Lippert Components - 216567 Motorized Step Wet Bolt Replacement Kit for Coach Step
  2. 41p1P0NmJHL._AC_SY1000_.jpg
  3. 51ahb+l1syL._SY350_PKmb-play-button-over
    `

 


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
Dr4Film
3 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Yeah, I don't know if that is just a feature with propane forced air furnaces.

Like I said, I've tried to get mine to switch to Aqua Hot heat, unsuccessfully. Maybe there are dip switches in the heat pumps that need to be set for this to happen.

Have you checked the DIp Switch settings on each control board to make sure the Furnace Dip Switch is set to ON?


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
96 EVO

My AH works on furnace setting on the thermostat, so I assume they are turned on. 

Whether there is another switch in there that will go to furnace if there is a large temp difference and the heat pumps are not cutting it.... I don't know.


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
Ivan K

I guess this not a road for everyone then...

Screenshot_20211030-202713_Rove Stealth 4K.jpg


How to Block up a Signature 40 chassis for HWH servicing
dandick66

JJ,

Thanks for the info.  I will probably build a set next week.  I know I have a leak under there somewhere.  Now I’ll be able to safely look for it.

Dan


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
96 EVO

Where is that Ivan?

That's pushing my toad's towing speed right to the limit 😀!


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
Ivan K
4 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Where is that Ivan?

That's pushing my toad's towing speed right to the limit 😀!

Texas 49 from I-20 towards Tyler.


Wind Blasting in Around Refrigerator from Outside Vent
tmw188

Don’t know without digging it up. Give what you can give it. Think how much room you may have with your house frig. Maybe 1/2” on the sides and a couple on top. The bottom front is a grille, not sure which way the air is moving. My frig in my house is a slip fit on the sides and about 2” on top. 

 


Rear Camera
Idoc57

I had the same problem with one of my side cameras.  Just like Roy said above, I took the connector apart, cleaned it and sprayed a little Corrosion-X on both sides of the connector.  Problem solved.  While on the topic of cameras (particularly side cameras) I had a very hard deposit on the inside of the lens which was degrading the image of one of my side cameras.  I tried to clean it off, but it just wouldn't come off.  As a last resort, I tried polishing it off with my work bench buffer.  I got it off, but it left some optical distortions in the glass.  I didn't like that, so I got online and did some searching.  I found that you can buy flat watch crystals in many different sizes on Amazon for just a few bucks.  Mine were 36mm.  Got 10 of them for about $8.  It worked beautifully, and I've got extras to share with a fellow RV'er if I ever come across someone with the same problem!

Carey


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
just_john1

I ad just the opposite reaction from Coach Net. Had the for 4 years and didn't need them, this trip I used them twice. First a driver steer blew and they misunderstood the tire and when they figured out I needed 2 tires they found me a set from over 100mi. away. Second time I blew my Turbo Charger and valve train (still on going, covered under different thread). They towed me over 125mi. to the Cummins dealer in Everett, WA. Very polite and helpful.

John

97 Dynasty


The Trip from Hell Update
just_john1

Same here, I thought it was weird too. But that was what was there.


Idling a Cummins engine
Frank McElroy
On 10/16/2021 at 9:25 AM, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

Cummins does not recommend running their engines while not driving for a long period of time because the engine plus the associated transmission does not reach operating temperatures.  Should I mention that while running your diesel in a campground can be irritating to your neighbors.  Why do you not go for a 25 one way drive?  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

That information is correct.  I looked up in the Cummins Operation and Maintenance manual for the ISC and ISL engines and for most with an ECM there is a fast idle option in the Insite software settings that after 5 minutes if in slow speed idle, under certain coolant temperature and air intake manifold temperatures, the engine will go into a fast idle mode to warm up the engine faster.  Monaco did activate that feature on my ISL.  On my engine Monaco did NOT activate the Engine Auto Idle Shutdown option so that if the engine idled at low speed for too long the engine would give a warning to alert that driver before turning off. 

Cummins considers idling a diesel engine too long before reaching normal operating temperatures engine abuse and that is one of the main reason for having the fast idle option.  Most engines with ECM will track the amount of engine low speed idle time.

In practice, once the engine starts and the oil pressure builds up to normal, you should activate the Fast idle option via the cruise control to shorten the time needed to warm up the engine.  The objective is that you want the engine once started to reach operating temperatures as quickly as reasonably possible.   Driving the engine slowly under minimal load as in driving through a campground to exit while the engine is reaching operating temperature is not a problem.  What you do not want to do is to accelerate under full load - foot to the floor - until the engine temp is at the normal operating temp. 


Trucks that cause the most headaches….
dl_racing427

Ivan,
I just wish they'd actually write tickets to those driving below the minimum, and/or not staying in the right lane unless actually passing another vehicle.  (Driving 1mph faster while beside another vehicle isn't "passing", by the way.) SMH


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