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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/597-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Dash Vents/Louvers
Happycarz
Dash Vents/Louvers
klcdenver
Refrigerator power ??
Steven P
Slide adjust
lake49068
Coach Paint job
Ray Davis
Electric power chord reel
RS lakeshore
Dash Vents/Louvers
bgfleck
Dash Vents/Louvers
klcdenver
Heat Pump Compressor Died? - FIXED
Scotty Hutto
Coach Paint job
BobSchmeck
Heat Pump Compressor Died? - FIXED
Trinidaddave
Front flat tire protection
dl_racing427
Dash Vents/Louvers
klcdenver
Coach Paint job
dl_racing427
Thanks for the add
traveltimes3
Thanks for the add
Dr4Film
Refrigerator power ??
BigNick
Wireless HDMI adapters
RNMCBR
Refrigerator power ??
Ivan K
Refrigerator power ??
96 EVO
Coach Paint job
waterskier_1
Wireless HDMI adapters
waterskier_1
Wireless HDMI adapters
RNMCBR
Coach Paint job
Hypoxia
Coach Paint job
Ray Davis
Refrigerator power ??
johncvandoren@gmail.com
Refrigerator power ??
96 EVO
Refrigerator power ??
Dr4Film
Coach Paint job
BobSchmeck
Refrigerator power ??
BigNick
Refrigerator power ??
Dr4Film
Thanks for the add
Gary M
Thanks for the add
Corkman
Block Heater operation?
96 EVO
Coach Paint job
BobSchmeck

New Posts

Dash Vents/Louvers
Happycarz
FREE- Used Trace Engineering RV 2012 Inverter/Charger w/RC7-GS Remote
GranPrix

I would be interested, I am in Delaware


Dash Vents/Louvers
klcdenver

Harry,

The one you found is very similar. I will contact them to get the dimensions. The diameter of the vent needs to be 4” on the face to cover the the screw holds of the old ones.

Thanks,

Kenneth


FREE- Used Trace Engineering RV 2012 Inverter/Charger w/RC7-GS Remote
AlanC2

Gary,

Sent you a PM about the Free Inverter/Charger w/remote.


Refrigerator power ??
Steven P

@saflyerold style outlets from me just meant the single receptacle that came in the coach. They just look old (to me) and when I looked for a replacement, I could only find em on Ebay making me think they were not made anymore,, therefore old style.  Sorry if I termed them wrong. 


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
jacwjames

Well, the supply chain doesn't seem to be too much of an issue for me. 

I ordered the Penguin II from PPL on Oct 28th and 6 days later got a call from a trucking company that the units were there and they scheduled delivery for Nov 5th but I decided to just go ahead and pick them up on Nov 3rd. 

I ordered the Micro Air thermostat later on Oct 28th, it was shipped USPS priority mail and arrived Nov 3rd also.

Ordered new gasket sets from Amazon on Oct 28th and they arrived Nov 1.

Started the install on Wednesday and ran into a snag right off the bat.  After installing the drain cups on the rear AC and setting it in place I hand threaded 2 bolts in and used a small ratchet to screw in more and one cross threaded, YIKES.  Had a heck of a time getting it out because the nut portion which is some sort of insert nut into the sheet metal started to turn.   Only way for me to get it out was drill a small hole next to it from the top and use a pin to hold if from turning,  What a pain.  

One issue with this is I had to have the unit upside down for a period of time, which I know isn't good for a compressor I won't try to start for 48 hours.  My neighbor is an HVAC guy and he says I should be OK.   Thoughts????

It almost appears that the hole pattern on the new units is slightly larger as it is difficult to get the bolts aligned with enough clearance to get the bolts started. .  On the front unit I put the two front bolts in and then had to push the unit all the way forward to allow clearance for the rear bolts.  On the old units it wasn't a problem.   But either way I got the two units set and bolted down.

Got most of the wiring done and today will set dip switches, finish wiring, install thermostat.   Probably won't try to test until tomorrow.


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
Steven P

@jacwjames I ordered 2 Wed from PPL also and am calling the freight company today.  I guess I should've asked a couple more questions about the gaskets.  I assumed they came w the new heat pumps? From your post,, I guess they don't?  I replaced one of mine w one from Steele Rubber before and liked the quality of it.  How are the Amazon ones?


Slide adjust
lake49068

Elkhart Sales and Service if you're anywhere near Elkhart, IN.


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
Dr4Film

Steven, the new AC's come with gaskets already attached to the bottom of the AC's. The additional gaskets Jim is referring to are the ones that are included with the drain cup kits.

https://tinyurl.com/y56y5jn6


Coach Paint job
Ray Davis
11 hours ago, BobSchmeck said:

He deals in cash. No credit card or checks

I understand he will meet you on this side of the border to inspect and quote a price.  Then you drive it to Algodones to his shop.   All of that seems ok, but crossing the border with $10 to $15 thousand cash is a little scary.  Does anyone know how the money thing is handled?  


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
jacwjames

Yes, the new AC were shipped with gaskets but if you add the drip cups you cut out a portion of that gasket to set the drip cups in place, seal around the hoses with silicone and then add another gasket on top of that. 

The gaskets I ordered from Amazon were similar to the ones that came with the AC units, slightly different material but look OK to me.  They were Camco 25071 universal 14X14" gaskets. 

 


Electric power chord reel
RS lakeshore

I definetly will check out side wall access. There is my manual pull out tray next to it. Thanks


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
Ray Davis

Steven has a Diplomat.  I'm pretty sure he does not have those drain pans.  So anyone with a Diplomat or lower on the scale, the extra gasket and drain pans are not used.

 


Dash Vents/Louvers
bgfleck

NWRV site is hard to navigate. here is the dash vent page

 

http://www.nwrvsupply.com/category/DVTS.html


Dash Vents/Louvers
klcdenver

Thanks Brian. I am sure that is the correct one. I had looked on that site several times and never found them.

 

Kenneth


replacement motor for older Carefree Windshield Power Visor?
Twomed

Generic 12V DC 60 RPM Reversible High Torque Gear Box Speed Control Electric Motor

Search Amazon for the above.  This is the motor that I used to replace mine.  Plastic ends with two ears that break off?  Same ones still used in 2006.  About $15


replacement motor for older Carefree Windshield Power Visor?
StellaTariche

This is what shows on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Reversible-Torque-Control-Electric/dp/B00M6Q9B3S

I haven’t taken the old motor out, so not sure of the shaft shape and diameter 

Does this one look correct? (physically as well as RPM)

Thanks for the help.

- John

 

IMG_3165.JPG

IMG_3164.JPG

IMG_3163.JPG


Heat Pump Compressor Died? - FIXED
Scotty Hutto

All,

Just wanted to share a recent experience with my Penguin Duo-Therm heat pumps that might help someone else...

My heat pump compressor stopped operating last weekend.  I went through a quick trouble-shooting process and determined that my start capacitor was bad, so I replaced the start cap.  No joy - the compressor still didn't run. 

Pulled out the Dometic Heat Pump troubleshooting manual (available in the files section) and went through the process of checking everything with my multi-meter and couldn't find a problem.  compressor, caps, relays... everything tested fine, but the heat pump compressor wouldn't run.

At this point, and because I have 15+ year old heat pumps, I started thinking I needed to order two new Pengiun II units to the tune of $3,000 (give or take taxes, shipping, etc.) and just replace everything.

But... I decided to go back and check the wiring one more time, and found that the run wire (blue wire in my unit) to the compressor had fallen out of the little "holder", had fallen on the axle of the fan, and been cut in two.  For a short-term fix, I found some similar gauge wire and spliced it in place. Everything works fine now.  For a long term fix, I will completely replace the wire once I get a chance, so that I don't have a splice.

347007538_heatpumpwire.jpg.cbc78c5d3e2bee88bfe9b5b9679ad2c7.jpg

Just a reminder that:

1. Sometimes its the simple things that trip us up, and

2. Next time you have the cover off your AC or heat pump, put a $0.10 zip tie on the wiring so you don't suffer a similar fate. 

Scotty


Coach Paint job
BobSchmeck
3 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

I understand he will meet you on this side of the border to inspect and quote a price.  Then you drive it to Algodones to his shop.   All of that seems ok, but crossing the border with $10 to $15 thousand cash is a little scary.  Does anyone know how the money thing is handled?  

Just talked to a gentleman who had his done 2 yrs ago.  Payment cash, they picked him up on the American side. He paid 1/2 at that point then Navarro drove him to his shop looked over the coach then paid the rest. That information helped my comfort level a lot. 


Heat Pump Compressor Died? - FIXED
Trinidaddave

Thanks Scotty, you saved some $$ this time 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
dl_racing427
On 11/4/2021 at 7:21 AM, Hypoxia said:

If you decide on ATRO it is a good idea to call them to see about availability before ordering from one of their vendors as they are normally drop shipped.  When I needed them they were not available for a few weeks but they can tell you their stock and/or ETA.  I installed a mixture of ATRO and Monaco bushings due to that.  FWIW I got the Monaco ones from Veurinks in Grand Rapids, MI.

ATRO MO10000

Monaco Bushing

Thanks for the part numbers.

Will these ATRO bushings fit all years of Roadmaster chassis?
I have a 1993 Dynasty, that I'm certain has the older style bushings.

Also, when replacing, I suspect removing one bar at a time to press out and replace the bushings would be the best method.

Thanks,

David


Front flat tire protection
dl_racing427

The Tyron bands only keep the tire beads from falling into the drop center and rolling off the wheel.
This prevents the tire from jamming your steering causing total loss of control.
They've been out a long time and appear to have a proven history.

The Retrobands are newer, and as such have a lot less historical evidence.
I do like the weight-supporting design of them, and will be considering them at my next set of tires.
Hopefully there will be more evidence by then. 🤔


Dash Vents/Louvers
klcdenver

Found my vents at Badger Truck and refrigeration. Very reasonable at $9.00 each. Talked to Paul Tiller @ 800-873-6811. www.btrac.com Paul was super nice and they have roof A/C's also.

Thanks for the help guys.


Coach Paint job
dl_racing427
13 hours ago, JohnC3 said:

We haven't used them, but did get a quote around January of this year.. They preferred to do full paint. That and their being further west were the reason we didn't use them. We only needed clear coat repair around the top radius and touchups for a total of $2500. 

I believe if memory holds that at the time they quoted us 12-15K for full pain all inclusive. They come highly recommended.

 

John

John,
I'm in VA, and my Dynasty has some peeling clearcoat on the front and rear caps.  Everything else is still in good shape.
Were they able to repair just the clearcoat without getting into the basecoats?

Where did you get the repairs done, and are you happy with the results?

Thanks,
David


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52
17 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said:

Thanks for the part numbers.

Will these ATRO bushings fit all years of Roadmaster chassis?
I have a 1993 Dynasty, that I'm certain has the older style bushings.

Also, when replacing, I suspect removing one bar at a time to press out and replace the bushings would be the best method.

Thanks,

David

Yes, David, they fit all years.  You can anticipate some rusting inside most, if not all, the bores of the trailing arms.  You will need an expanding sleeve sanding drum to clean up the bores.  Also, in the cases I've worked on, the O.D. of the ATRO bushing is too much of a press fit in the bore of the trailing arm, and there is some danger of collapsing the bushing when you press it in.  When you have the bushings and are ready to do the job, contact me and I'll give you some more advice and loan you some tools to help with installation.  Your greatest problem will likely be getting the rear bolts out.  Most of the time, you have to saw through them on either side of the original bushing to get the trailing arm out.


Thanks for the add
traveltimes3

Thanks for adding me!  My husband and I have a 2001 Monaco Dynasty.  We really enjoy it and are learning so much as we go.  I have read several threads on here that have helped us either fix issues on our own, or guide us to the issue so that we can find someone to help us.  We are looking forward to reading more and learning more about the coach we have owned for a couple of years now.  


Thanks for the add
Dr4Film

Rachel, welcome to the very best Monaco forum on the Internet.

Enjoy the ride!


Refrigerator power ??
BigNick

Well, I think I found the answer to my question. I have a book of schematics, I guess that receptacle doesn't get power from the inverter CB box. The only thing I can think of to correct the situation is to run a set of wires from the CB panel up to the refrigerator backside. I'm guessing this is like this because the original refrigerator ran off propane, I know this because the gas line is capped behind.

Beaver Electrical Schematic.jpg


Wireless HDMI adapters
RNMCBR

I ran Cat 5e cable down the driver’s side in the channel that is formed by the roof curving over to the upper beltline. Then I used a HDMI extender over cat5 to get the signal from my Wally to the rear tv. 
I previously used an Actiontec wireless HDMI extender for about 7 years with success but lately the signal was being affected by some other signals, particularly when near airports. The cat 5 extender seems to work great.

The upper channel can be accessed by removing the A-pillar covers above the driver’s seat at the corner of the windshield. At the rear, I removed my CB panel to find a wire bundle at the back wall. I cleaned out the foam and was then able to snare the wire I had pulled to that point. 
For pulling the wire, I used a Magne Pull which is a strong magnetized roller on a handle and a torpedo that I attached a pull cord to. My wife fed the pull cord as I pulled it down the channel from the outside. A good snake might also work. 
 

Roy


Using a Hybrid Inverter with Intellitec EMS
waterskier_1
On 11/3/2021 at 9:16 PM, JohnC3 said:

Rick,

Thank you for your clear and knowledgeable responses. I would like to clarify my current and proposed setup.

Partial present power flow:

Shore/Genset->Auto Switch->Main Panel

     Main Panel 30A Inverter Breaker-> Magnum ME2012 Inverter.

Inverter has (2) 20A popup breakers that feed 1) Microwave, 2) Inverter supported outlets.

Proposed Changes for Multiplus II 2x120 Inverter:

1)      6/3 line from Auto Switch to Main panel will be now go from (AC out) of Multiplus II to feed Main Panel.

2)      New 6/3 line will be run from Auto Switch to (AC in) of Multiplus II

3)      Two loads that were on ME2012 inverter (microwave and outlets) will have new breakers in the main panel. These breakers will take the place of the 30A inverter breaker (using ½ size 20A dual breaker). There will be a junction box in the inverter bay and two new 12/2 lines run to the main panel to connect to the two loads.

4)      Since the inverter will be increasing in size from 2000VA to 3000VA, a 2nd 4/0 12V cable will be run from the batteries to the inverter. This is to meet the Victron recommendations that two 4/0 12v power cables be used if the batteries are > 15ft from the inverter.

New Power Flow

               Shore/Genset-> Auto Switch->Multiplex II

                              Multiplex II -> Main Panel feeding all 120v loads.

Hoped for results:

Since all power will be running through the Victron Multiplus II 2x120 inverter. The following power assist should be possible:

30A Shore + 25A Load Assist = 55A total possible supported load with a battery draw of about 288A

20A Shore + 25A Load Assist = 45A total possible supported load with a battery draw of about 288A

50A Shore or Genset would require no load assist. It would work in pass-through mode with the inverter.

What would I expect to run:

With 30A Shore, I should be able to run Base load (5A), two Air Conditioners (30A), Microwave or Washer/Dryer (13A) but not both for a total of 48As. I would need to pay attention to the loads and only run what would fit in my power profile.

Issue I was Concerned about:

Since all power runs through the inverter, when the inverter gets shore power < 50A, both Legs are the same phase. My understanding is the Intelletic 750 uses this (L1 and L2 in phase and no 12v signal from the Genset) to determine the need for Load monitoring and maybe sheading. So in this situation, I would have (with a 30A shore connection) the load assist inverter able to provide up to 55A total 120 power, but the Intellitec will begin disabling loads when the power exceeds 30A.

My solution to this was to make the Intellitec think it was running on Genset; then the Intellitec would not shed below 66A 120V. I would do this by providing power to pin 2 on the Intellitec control panel. I am still working out the fine details, but want to have a switch to force the Genset mode, when the inverter is on. I would turn this on when I was on 30A or 20A Shore power.

Possible issues: I will be relying on the Multiplus II’s ability to limit output. So if I draw too much power, the inverter might shut down, with the possibility of voltage spikes, etc. (Not sure how well the Multiplus II handles an overload situation).

 

I would welcome comment on this proposed setup.

Thanks for your time.

John Crowder

John,

I now understand what you are trying to do - put the whole coach on the inverter.  Here are some problems, concerns, questions I think you need to consider.

1.  6/3 line from Multiplus II (AC out).  Which AC out?  Are you thinking of using L1 and L2 inverter circuits? How will you decide which circuits (in the main Power Panel) are on L1 and which are on L2.  Are you aware that only L1 has the hybrid boost function?  Are you considering using the second (Auxiliary) output which is live only when Shore/Gen power is available?  I use this on my MultiPlus to power the second electric Aquahot element for my 600D which replaces an Aquahot with only one electric element.  This would be for things that you know you don't want powered by the inverter, usually things Electric Heater elements in Aquahot (use diesel) and electric water heaters (use propane or diesel) and A/Cs (I know you want to have that on the inverter).  I understand that you want to take advantage of the hybrid function when you don't have 50-Amp Shore Power.  But have you thought through what happens when you have no Shore or Gen power.  Everything in the coach would potentially be running off the inverter.  But it's only rated for  2400 Watts (3000 VA is into a purely resistive load, like an electric heater, not a motor/compressor, like an A/C which has inductance.  2400 Watts is only 20 Amps @ 120 Volts (even if you use the 3000 VA that is only 25 Amps @120).  This shows that the inverter, when no Shore Power is available, can, at best only supply 25 Amps and you are unhappy with the 30 Amps from Shore Power not being sufficient.  

2.  You will need power entrance switch type of cutoff between the Transfer Switch and the Inverter.  Codes require that there be a means of turning off all power, which would include the inverter.  That is not difficult (just a double 50-Amp Breaker in a box) but something you didn't mention.

3.  This sound fine, but be aware that running lines from the Circuit Breaker Panel (it will no longer be the Main Panel - see #2 above) is not easy to access without cutting walls.  But electrically, this will work.

4.  Good.

HOPED FOR RESULTS:

If you plan on exceeding the 50A rating of 6/3 cable, you'll need to replace the cable from the MultiPlus II output to 4/3 cable.  Personally, I don't think it would be worth it for the extra 5Amps.  I'd set the MultiPlus up so that you would never exceed the 50 Amp max.    Other than that, what you present is correct.  But, remember this is TOTAL current.  That is, L1 and L2 will be tied together when you don't have split phase 50A shore power.  That is not a real problem, as long as you recognize that.

I think your base load is way low, at least mine is about 2X that, but I likely have more electronics running - even though most are in standby, my router and MiFi are always on. But you basic expectations are correct, for operation on 30 Amp Shore, for a finite time (less than 4 hours) before the batteries will need to be recharged.  And that would take over 9.5  hours, assuming you cut all the loads during that time low enough to let the battery charger run at it's maximum charge rate of 120 Amps.  And that will be derated when the weather gets hot.  

But you have not addressed what happens when you have no Shore Power/Generator.  To do this correctly, you will have to program the MultiPlus to shut down completely before you start to draw more than 50 Amps (it will on it own once that 50Amp limit is hit).  Note that the current to run the inverter at 50 Amps would be about 575 Amps, or less than 2 hours.  But more importantly, how will you replace that current?  Run the Generator for 10 hours?  

Lastly I can't address the Intelletic, because I don't have one.  But I recommend against forcing it to thinking there is power when there is not.  If you were to do that, I'd recommend simply removing it completely, since it would never work again as designed.  Then it will be up to you to make sure you don't exceed the maximum current.  Note that, at least through 2005, Dynasty and above did not have the Intelletic EMS or any other automated EMS.  

Possible Issues:  From a design point, you should NEVER rely on a devices internal protection to be the only protection.  So, you will need to make sure that the output (and inputs) are properly fused or circuit breakers such that the device's internal protection is never needed.  In many devices (I haven't reviewed how Victron does it) the shutdown is not graceful, that is, it may blow a protection device to save itself, and have to be repaired to regain functionality.  The protection built into the device is a last resort protection.  You should already have some sort of Surge Protection/Energy Management on your coach to protect against over/under voltage, bad neutrals, along with voltage spikes.  If you don't, that should be a priority of your modification, to protect your MultiPlus, if not the entire coach.  Again, the input voltage spike protection, if it has it, is likely a destructive protection, meaning that the protection device is sacrificed during protection, and will require replacement (not generally user replaceable). 

I'd really like to hear more about how you plan on connecting the output L1 and L2 to the Breaker Panel ( as far as which circuit go on which breaker) because that will be required to balance the load on the split phase 50 Shore Power, but it will inhibit some things on one leg from being "boosted".  I'm sure it can be done, and I can see you have put a lot of thought into this.  I'm just pointing out some things that you may not have considered.  

  -Rick N.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
dl_racing427
32 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

Yes, David, they fit all years.  You can anticipate some rusting inside most, if not all, the bores of the trailing arms.  You will need an expanding sleeve sanding drum to clean up the bores.  Also, in the cases I've worked on, the O.D. of the ATRO bushing is too much of a press fit in the bore of the trailing arm, and there is some danger of collapsing the bushing when you press it in.  When you have the bushings and are ready to do the job, contact me and I'll give you some more advice and loan you some tools to help with installation.  Your greatest problem will likely be getting the rear bolts out.  Most of the time, you have to saw through them on either side of the original bushing to get the trailing arm out.

Thanks Van,

I'll probably be doing this next spring, unless we get a warm spell over the Christmas holidays.
My storage building isn't insulated or heated, and the doors on my shop aren't quite tall enough to get the coach inside. 😢


Refrigerator power ??
Ivan K

Nick, I think you are right there. Looks like both of our configurations are outside of the assumed normal, in different ways. Hopefully you'll find an easy way to hook it up to a nearby source.


Refrigerator power ??
96 EVO

If your coach came with a fridge with no built in ice maker, they had no need to install a inverter powered receptacle back there. 


Coach Paint job
waterskier_1
On 11/4/2021 at 10:28 AM, JDCrow said:

I don’t know recently, but posts claimed for big coaches (38-40) in the $5000-$6500 range, Full body paint 

If you can get a quality full body paint job for that price, I'd jump on it!  I suspect that the paint alone will be close that that, not including labor, for quality paint and clear coat.

I have a friend that had his coach painted at Navarro 2 years ago.  He went around all the coaches parked at Quartzsite for the Big RV Show, and he and his wife found a paint job (colors and graphics) that they fell in love with.  It was not a Monaco (I think it was a Tiffin, but I'm not really sure).  They took lots of pictures, from all angles, and took those to Navarro's and asked if that could be painted on their coach.  They were looking for full paint job, meaning starting with the base colors, not just sanding down and re-clear coating.  The cost was insignificantly more.  I was amazed how Navarro's was able to properly scale the graphics, and match the colors from just (very good quality) pictures.  Their work is quite good.  This was before Covid hit.  Not only is the labor rate mush less in Mexico, they don't have the EPA regulations down their.  This allows them to work cheaper (less hours) and they don't have the costly regulations regarding the type of paint and what's in it, how the fumes must be captured and disposed of, etc.  I'm not making this an issue about the validity of the EPA Regs, only explaining how they can do the job so much cheaper in Mexico.  They are just across the border from Yuma, AZ.  The main problem is the streets to get there, through the border crossing are very tight.  I know someone who scraped the side of their newly painted mini-van by not being very careful.  Don't be rushed and take it slowly.  At that time, Navarro would meet in the USA to inspect the coach and give an estimate, but I'm not sure they are doing that now.  Their reputation is so good that it's hard to get a time slot to get the job done.  If/when I decide to paint my coach, I'll likely use them. 


Wireless HDMI adapters
waterskier_1
55 minutes ago, RNMCBR said:

I ran Cat 5e cable down the driver’s side in the channel that is formed by the roof curving over to the upper beltline. Then I used a HDMI extender over cat5 to get the signal from my Wally to the rear tv. 
I previously used an Actiontec wireless HDMI extender for about 7 years with success but lately the signal was being affected by some other signals, particularly when near airports. The cat 5 extender seems to work great.

The upper channel can be accessed by removing the A-pillar covers above the driver’s seat at the corner of the windshield. At the rear, I removed my CB panel to find a wire bundle at the back wall. I cleaned out the foam and was then able to snare the wire I had pulled to that point. 
For pulling the wire, I used a Magne Pull which is a strong magnetized roller on a handle and a torpedo that I attached a pull cord to. My wife fed the pull cord as I pulled it down the channel from the outside. A good snake might also work. 
 

Roy

I haven't checked the price of HDMI over Cat5 transmitters/receivers recently.  When I did mine, I elected to simply purchase an HDMI Splitter, and run HDMI cable from the front to the rear.  They make quality HDMI Cable for runs over 50 feet, and the splitter has an amplifier.  I don't think there is much difference in the difficulty in running HDMI vs Cat5.  I'll have to look into them the next time I need to do this, it would be better if it got around the problem with multiple resolutions.

  -Rick N.  


Wireless HDMI adapters
RNMCBR

Yeah, HDMI would be simpler. It should be pullable through that channel about as easily as Cat5.


Coach Paint job
Hypoxia
5 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

All of that seems ok, but crossing the border with $10 to $15 thousand cash is a little scary.

Do not carry more than $10,000.00 across the border, that's the law & has stiff penalties.


Coach Paint job
Ray Davis

I haven't been to Navarro's shop but I have been to Algodones and yes the passage through the border is crazy tight,  I can't see me driving my coach through.

Somewhere I read that you should cross at I believe it is Summerton,  it's just a few miles not far at all.  Summerton is a real crossing that can handle trucks so                    navigating RVs through should be easy enough.

 

13 minutes ago, Hypoxia said:

Do not carry more than $10,000.00 across the border, that's the law & has stiff penalties.

Good point,  I hardly ever have that much on me anyway.  😏

Correction,  I never have that much on me. 🤑


Refrigerator power ??
johncvandoren@gmail.com
On 11/2/2021 at 9:16 AM, 59Chriscraft said:

That plug is not wired into the inverter circuit do to the drain on battery if you are off grid very long. I’m trying to figure out how to wire around that plug to be able to use the inverter while driving instead of running the generator.

My rig had a duplex outlet, with one socket wired from the breaker panel (for the ice maker), and the other wired from the inverter.  Check both with multimeter. If inverter socket is hot, use it, ignore the other.  You didn’t say what make/model inverter, so can’t tell you how or where to troubleshoot it.


Refrigerator power ??
96 EVO
18 minutes ago, johncvandoren@gmail.com said:

My rig had a duplex outlet, with one socket wired from the breaker panel (for the ice maker), and the other wired from the inverter.  Check both with multimeter. If inverter socket is hot, use it, ignore the other.  You didn’t say what make/model inverter, so can’t tell you how or where to troubleshoot it.

Did your coach come with a factory installed residential fridge?


Refrigerator power ??
Dr4Film

Or you could locate the nearest/easiest Inverter powered duplex/receptacle to the fridge area and just run an extension cord from that duplex over to the rear end of the fridge compartment.


Coach Paint job
BobSchmeck

You put 1/2 in your wife's pocket & the other 1/2 in yours. Or you have Navarro pick you up on the American side pay him 1/2 . And you carry the other 1/2. Or you can go across the border twice.  Not hard to figure out, just fellow the rules & use your head. 


Refrigerator power ??
BigNick
45 minutes ago, johncvandoren@gmail.com said:

My rig had a duplex outlet, with one socket wired from the breaker panel (for the ice maker), and the other wired from the inverter.  Check both with multimeter. If inverter socket is hot, use it, ignore the other.  You didn’t say what make/model inverter, so can’t tell you how or where to troubleshoot it.

I'm fairly sure there's no inverter power there, I will check with a meter before anything. If not, then I will plug in the fridge using an extension cord from the inverter receptacle in the head and verify the fridge will run from it. If so, I will drop the wire off that bathroom receptacle , (which I will verify has inverter power and is literally on the other side of the wall from the fridge). When I drop the wire off the GFI receptacle in the head, I'll pull a piece 12/3 down so I can hook the GFI back up and hook one of the outlets in the duplex receptacle for the fridge to the dropped wire, that way I'll have one receptacle inverter powered, the head receptacle will still be GFI and inverter powered as well. 


Recommendations on replacing both my Duotherm 13.5K AC/Heat Pump units
jacwjames

Successful test of AC's and thermostat. 

So finished the little bit of wiring I had to do and set the dip switches on the front AC, which is Zone 2 and has the furnace assigned to that zone.

Mounted the Micro Air to the wall. The little template thing that they use is pretty much useless. So I put a piece of painters tape across the back and marked the holed including the center where the telephone wire attaches. Put the tape across the location making sure it was aligned with the fairly small hole the phone cable comes out of, and put screws where the two attached points are. This worked much better then the cheesy thing they send with the unit.

The only trouble I had was getting my phone to sync with the thermostat. You need an internet connection and in the garage my phone does not have a signal. So I had to move my hotspot from the house into the garage, setting it at the door to get a good signal. I then tried to resync the phone with the thermostat, which worked, had to name the thermostat and that was it.

I tested the front AC first, tested fan functions first, then the heat pump, then furnace since it cold out. Both worked fine. The App for the phone worked great, pretty simple to understand what buttons to push and it was very responsive. Tested the signal inside and outside the coach and worked great. I then tested the rear AC, first fans, then heat pump. Worked great. 


I monitored the Amperage of the fans, low speed came in at 3 amp, slightly higher on medium and high speed. Amperage with high fan and heat pump was ~12-13 amp based on the EMS load meter, might have been slightly higher on the Progressive.

The thermostat is very easy to set up as long as you have internet connection. Phone screen is very easy to interpret. I'll play with the actual thermostat tomorrow but honestly, with as well as the phone works I'll be using that quite a bit. I can already envision me laying in bed on a cold morning, pulling my phone off the nightstand, and turning the temps ups.

I still have to put the metal slip joint in that ties the AC unit to the duct work, I wanted to make sure everything worked before finishing that up. I also have to put the shrouds back on both AC units, move the old units off the roof, and clean up the tools.

Hopefully I'll get a good chance to test everything on a trip I'm planning out west in the very near future.


Refrigerator power ??
Dr4Film

Nick,

Excellent plan and exactly what I would do in the same situation.


replacement motor for older Carefree Windshield Power Visor?
jacwjames

This is what I bought last year, actually bought 2 to qualify for free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071XCX1LH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Physically it was shorter then the original motor but seemed to have plenty of torque and I checked the speed of the drivers side and the repaired passenger side and they were very close. 

Be careful pulling it apart, the plastic pieces are no longer available from Carefree. 


Thanks for the add
Gary M

Welcome from Everywhere USA. Home base Ashland,OR. Currently in Desert Hot Springs, CA.


Thanks for the add
Corkman

We have a 2001 Monaco dynasty as well. We have a 40 queen. What model is yours


Block Heater operation?
96 EVO
On 11/2/2021 at 3:34 PM, tmw188 said:

Well I’m choosing to leave mine plugged in and manage it with the breaker and rocker switch. If you have a receptacle near by it should reach. You may need to cut loose a zip tie. 

If your planning on leaving it plugged in, you may want to make sure that receptacle doesn't get power thru the inverter!

Could drain your batteries quickly if that switch was turned / left on, by mistake. 


Coach Paint job
BobSchmeck

Here's a little more that I have learned.  Going in its through Algodones. Tight yes, but not any worse than old Town Durango during construction.  One person went alongside incase they had to lift some wires over the ac units.  When you leave you go south to San Luis and come across there. Leaving from Algodones just ain't going to happen. A good part of the road to San Luis is also no picnick. Very narrow & ruff. Just plan on doing no more than about 25 mph. Till you get to the highway.  Talked to 2 people both have have said they would do it again. 

  Keep in mind 90% of the work in that town comes from America's & Canadian's. (Dental, glasses &  prescriptions) The people in that part of Mexico protects the people who bring their money down there.  The last thing they want is a bad unsafe reputation.

February here we come.  

Dang, forgot. 

Don't forget to get Mexico auto insurance.,  (you only need it from the border to Navarro's and then again to get back across the border) & don't have a large trailer painted the same time as the M/H.  You will get your self in a jam on the way back. But you will have a great story to tell. 

NO GUNS OR AMMO! 

A friend went across and on the way back they looked really close and found 1, 22 bullet.  Good thing she was female. It took about 2 hrs longer to get back talking her way out of that one. 


Front flat tire protection
David Pratt

Rettrobands  were recalled over a year ago because of numerous failures and have not been on the market because they are still being evaluated. There are Rettroband Customers that have not received replacement bands and are still driving on Defective Rettrobands.

When Plastic meets Concrete/Pavement, Guess who wins.

The following is the information about Rettrobands.

IMPORTANT UPDATE FOR ALL RETTROBAND OWNERS

Dear Rettroband Owner,
For those of you whom I haven’t had the pleasure of meeting, my name is Brett Davis and I am the Founder and CEO of National Indoor RV Centers. I am also Co-Founder of Rettroband. For what it’s worth, I feel you should know I write all my own communications. Not our marketing department, and not our lawyers.
I purchased my first coach in 1985. I have nine children and twenty six grandchildren. During those thirty five years, almost without exception, every time I’ve traveled I’ve had what I consider very precious cargo onboard in the form of my children and/or grandchildren. Needless to say, front tire blowouts have always been of paramount concern to me.
Five years ago I met Robert Craig, Founder of Craig International Ballistics, when he was taking delivery of his coach from National Indoor RV Centers, and together we formed Rettroband. Craig International Ballistics is the largest supplier of armor to the Australian military, as well as eight other militaries around the world. Craig International Ballistic’s products range from body armor, to armored vehicles, to both fixed wing and rotary aircraft, and to vessels. Robert has thirty five years experience in manufacturing military grade armor and protective products for armored vehicles, including “run flat devices”.
Robert’s and my desire was to develop a product, a “run flat device” which would free coach owners from the continual dread in the back of their minds of a front tire blowout. We both recognized the Motorhome market is a very small market, but in dire need of such a product. And, we both really desired to solve this problem.
So, why am I writing you? A couple of my pet peeves over my thirty five years of RVing experiences are:
  1. Regardless of the number of times their products fail, or how widely known those failures are within the RVing community, the manufacturers almost always say “this is the first we’re hearing of this”.
  2. Whenever failures do occur, manufacturers tend to point up and down the supply chain trying to lay blame on someone else.
These are only two of a myriad of frustrations I have personally experienced over my years of RVing, and which ultimately led to the founding of National Indoor RV Centers.
When it comes to business I have always believed “if you have a problem, you put it up on the table so we all have a problem”. At National Indoor RV Centers we don’t hide issues, and we don’t duck from our customers. So, I am writing to inform you we have had several Rettroband failures recently, for a total of five Rettroband failures out of almost one thousand. While 5/1,000 is a very small percentage, in my opinion, one failure is one too many.
We at Rettroband experienced our first failure on, none other than, September 11th, 2019. We immediately sent the failed Rettroband to the laboratory to determine the cause of the failure. The cause was found to be over tightening of the Rettroband due to improper installation. The next failure occurred June 21st, 2020, and the last three failures have been in the last three weeks which is prompting this communication. We have not received back the cause of the most recent failure from the lab yet as it just occurred a few days ago. However, it sure appears to have been over tightened as well, and is most distressing to me because we (NIRVC) installed it. I wish I had all the answers for this latest failure before writing this email, but I also didn’t want to delay in communicating what appears to be the issue and what we think the solution is.
Immediately after determining the cause of the first failure, Robert started designing and engineering a solution, followed by molds, then production, and finally testing. I will try and paint a picture with words in hopes you’ll be able to visualize the problem, and therefore the solution.
In our development of the product, which took 3.5 years to design, engineer, and test, Robert did extensive testing. I’ll share with you just a few of Robert‘s tests:
  1. Compression. Rettroband withstood 32,000 pounds of pressure before the Rettroband failed.
  2. Strength. On a tire testing machine acquired from Bridgestone by the Big Tyre Company, they took Rettroband up to 75.18mph and then instantly hit it with 10,000 pounds of pressure numerous times.
  3. Durability. We wanted to be certain a coach owner could safely drive to the next exit following a blowout. Below is a link to a video showing the Rettroband attached directly to the brake drum... no rim! The Rettroband has 6 tons (12,000 pounds) of weight on it, and is traveling at 45mph. FYI, the largest Alcoa aluminum rim is only rated to 10,500 pounds. As you will see, Rettroband is extremely durable, and more than capable of being driven on after a blowout. Remember, in a true blowout Rettroband will have the added benefits of being attached to a rim within a tire as compared to this video. Here is the link to the video: https://youtu.be/RmGGKxlHix0
  4. Blowout. As many of you have seen before in the below video, we used a gas coach with a short wheelbase, and a very long overhang behind the drive axle. We also loaded the coach with ballast to the point we couldn’t get its speed above 65mph. While the test driver knew we were going to blow the tire, he didn’t know exactly when the tire would be blown. The drone shot at the 7:15 mark of the video captures the blowout from the exterior. Notice the coach doesn’t even wiggle. Then the interior camera shot at the 7:17 mark of the video captures the test driver’s hand on the steering wheel at the moment of the blowout. Notice again, the steering wheel doesn’t even wiggle. Here is the link to the video: https://youtu.be/ujVVWz-Wxjo
Robert focused in testing on the pressure and compression associated with the centripetal force, and the sudden impact of a blowout. We knew it was critical during the installation of Rettrobands for the gearboxes to be centered, and tightened only until both halves touched. Preferably, we like to be able to slide a sheet of paper between the two halves. What we have found, unfortunately, is that third-party installers were using air wrenches or rattle guns, and over tightening the the gearboxes. Tightening beyond the ability to slide a piece of paper through where the two halves meet is incorrect, and we now know that apparently it may lead to Rettroband failures as the over tightening bows the two halves, and stretches the entire system causing it to work against itself.
Now knowing the problem, as we now do, hopefully you’ll be able to visualize my explanation of the solution. Since “a picture is worth a thousand words” I’ll start with a series of pictures and explanations of each. Here is a drawing of the steel band which is inside the new Rettrobands:
image
 
The steel band is inside each of the halves which make up the complete Rettroband. The large metal pin the gearbox threads into, will now go through the both the hole in the polyurethane composite AND the steel band. The steel band is anchored to both the large metal pins in the same half of the Rettroband. Now as the gearboxes bring the two halves together the steel band will act as a torque brake mitigating the risk of over tightening. The steel band anchors the two other metal pins to each other in the event of over tightening, as opposed to the gearboxes pulling the pins through the polyurethane.
Below is a picture of the steel band inside a polyurethane Rettroband. Notice how the large metal pin is no longer going through just the hole in the polyurethane, but it also goes through the steel band.
image
 
 
Below is a picture of the steel band inside a rubber Rettroband:
image
 
 
And finally, below is a picture showing the beginnings of a crack in the old Rettroband caused by over tightening. Once the crack has started we believe its travel can be accelerated in extreme heat. For example, one of the recent failures occurred during an outside temperature of 115 degrees, with pavement temperature of 150 degrees, and inside tire temperatures of almost 200 degrees. Hence, Robert’s testing of the new Rettrobands with the steel band inside have been performed this time around inside a kiln.
image
 
 
I hope I’ve been able to paint a picture for you of both the problem and the solution. The in-house testing of the new Rettroband is nearing completion. Following completion of our in-house testing, once again, actual road testing using explosive charges will be carried out at the Nevada Auto Testing Center (“NATC”). NATC is a certified track and where we test blowing tires at speed on a Motorhome. This testing was scheduled to have been done this past March, but due to the Coronavirus, NATC postponed our testing dates. We are currently scheduled to do our final round of testing at the NATC in the coming weeks.
I’m sure the biggest question you are all asking yourselves right now is; what’s National Indoor RV Centers and Rettroband going to do about this? For this I’ll pull back the curtain a little.
At National Indoor RV Centers, we’re in the business of making customers for life. To that end, one of our training programs is a mandatory “Book Club” meeting every Monday morning at 7:30am. In this meeting all our employees participate in real life customer service experiences, both inside and outside of our company, as we go through four books on customer service over, and over again. We stress treating a customer the way we would want to be treated if our roles were reversed. We emphasize “always doing what’s right regardless of the cost”.
Additionally, Robert and I are concerned about what happens to your original Rettrobands when you need to replace your tires, or you sell your coach and the new owner needs to replace the tires. We will have no knowledge or control over how the new tire shop may reinstall the Rettrobands. Whether or not they will bother to follow the instructions. We are both the kind of men “who would rather sleep well, than eat well”. Rettroband was designed and engineered to keep you and your loved ones safe in the event of a blowout, and we will “practice what we preach” and stand behind the product or service we sell. We will be replacing the bands of all Rettrobands currently on the road at no cost to you our customer, and have ceased installations of the current design. (We won’t be replacing the gearboxes as they are not the problem, and we’ve never had one fail in either testing or in the market.)
Also, upon completion of the testing and compliance at the NATC, we will begin mass production of the new redesigned Rettrobands. While around the clock production will be quick, shipping 20 tons will take 47 days at sea, and another 8 days to clear customs and be at our facilities. Once they are aboard the ship, and their arrival date is know, we will begin booking appointments to swap out your bands and rebalance your tires.
In the meantime, I’m sure you’re wondering what happens should a Rettroband fail, and should you drive our coach while waiting on the replacement Rettrobands?
Since I am not one of the five who experienced a Rettroband failure, I can’t speak to this firsthand. However, I can pass on what I’ve been told the experience felt like, and fortunately, one of the failures was captured on a dash camera. I’ve been told it felt “like a buckboard wagon ride” for about a quarter of a mile until they could get to the side of the road. Three of the failures described it as feeling “like their tire was severely out of balance”. Here again, I believe “a picture is worth a thousand words”, and you can make your own assessment. Here is the link to the dash camera video of one of the Rettroband failures:
Now as to the question of whether you should or shouldn’t drive your coach while waiting for your replacement bands? Here, I really can’t offer any advice, because it’s similar to asking “how long is a piece of rope”. However, I can and will offer my opinion. We can start with 1,000 Rettrobands currently on the road, and then make any assumption you’d like to make on the number of miles they’ve been driven on since the first installation sixteen months ago. I’m just “spitballing” here, but let’s say they’ve averaged 5,000 miles apiece, multiplied by 1,000 Rettrobands, would equal 5,000,000 miles, out of which five bands have failed without an accident or a fatality. Personally, I feel much safer driving with the existing Rettrobands than I do driving without them, or with the other competing “run flat” devices currently available on the market today.
Please be sure, I will try to keep you updated on timing, as well as answer any questions as they arise.
Please feel free to call, email, or text me. It may take a little time in responding, but I will get back to you.

All the best,
Brett Davis
 

Block Heater operation?
tmw188
2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

If your planning on leaving it plugged in, you may want to make sure that receptacle doesn't get power thru the inverter!

Could drain your batteries quickly if that switch was turned / left on, by mistake. 

Yes, good suggestion I’ll check that.


Block Heater operation?
96 EVO

I would hope it doesn't, but you never know!


Block Heater operation?
tmw188

I’ll check it with a circuit tester. Kind of doubt it though it draws 8-9 amps. 


Refrigerator power ??
ko7pjim

My 04 Camelot 40PDQ has two duplex receptacles behind the fridge.  One duplex receptacle (upper) run on the inverter.  The below duplex receptacle is on shore power.  I converted the cooling unit to a compressor so I plug it into the inverter so it will run when not plugged into shore power.


Days lost to weather
Moonwink

During our attempts to travel from St Louis to Quartzsite after Christmas, a couple of times we had to alter our plans due to weather.  One time, as we were headed across NM with sever crosswinds, our crank-up Winegard TV antenna started banging up and down on the roof.  Sagebrush was lining the sides of the roads blown up against the fences.  I wasn't having any problems keeping it under control but the headwinds were preventing the transmission on my gas MH from staying in overdrive.  That was enough.  I had the wife look up the next campground which happened to be the Escapees in Deming.  The next morning with the front past, the weather was calm and the sunrise was beautiful. 

On another occasion, we'd gotten as far as Abilene, TX with the weather closing in.  I thought I could out run it and spend the night in Van Horn.  I was wrong, the weather was already closed in.  We were cautiously heading west on I-20 when we came up on a traffic jam.  As I came to a complete stop, the front tires went sideways on the black ice.  Thankfully, we were at an exit and there as a campground sign right there.  We pulled in the campground only to find out it was completely full of oil well workers.  The owners knew we were in a jam and let us stay between a couple of sites on the already sleet covered ground.  All the regulars had gone home between Christmas and New Years so we weren't inconveniencing anyone.  For the next 3 days, we sat there and watched another inch of sleet accumulate.  Overnight on the last night, it rained melting all the ice we were sitting on.  The next morning, when I started forward, I felt the MH sink into the mud.  See the picture for how we were able to get out of our space and back on the road.

20150103_080903-800.jpg


Refrigerator power ??
96 EVO
33 minutes ago, ko7pjim said:

My 04 Camelot 40PDQ has two duplex receptacles behind the fridge.  One duplex receptacle (upper) run on the inverter.  The below duplex receptacle is on shore power.  I converted the cooling unit to a compressor so I plug it into the inverter so it will run when not plugged into shore power.

I would do the same with a compressor fridge, but not an absorption fridge!

My Dometic heating element draws something like 470 watts. That would kill my battery bank in short order!


Block Heater operation?
jacwjames

On my 2002 Windsor the block heater does not go through the inverter circuit.   Easy to tell, the breaker is in the main service panel.  Those circuits don't get power from the inverter.  The block heater is not controlled by the EMS either so it will take priority over the EMS circuits (AC's, Water Heater, Washer and Dryer).   So if you have it on other power may drop out if you are on a 30 amp circuit. 


Block Heater operation?
tmw188

Makes total sense I get that-thanks.


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