2008 Dynasty electrical issue-melted Intellitec box

[Pduggs]

We smelled electrical burning emanating from the bedroom the other night. The only thing turned on in there was the heat pump, which had failed to operate. I thought the cause was the AC/heat pump unit. I turned it off and the smell dissipated. Removing the AC shroud the next morning found nothing amiss. 

The DW yells this morning that the dryer won’t work. I check the electrical outlet the dryer is plugged into and it’s dead. Following the electrical line from the outlet box to the Intellitec box pictured below, opening it up and BINGO. I found the source of the burning smell. 

I’m not sure what to do next. What would cause this? It looks like I need to replace the melted Intellitec box. Where can I buy it? I’m surprised the house electrical breaker for the dryer didn’t trip.

[Frank McElroy]

This was caused by poor electrical connections.  Notice the melted plastic in the upper left of your picture.  Do a Google search and you should be able to find a used intellitec automatic load transfer switch.  Your other option is to install a manual transfer switch, or you can install a junction box to eliminate the automatic switch.  The problem with that is you must always remember to only run the washer or AC separately.

[Xlr8ting1]

There are 2 new ones available on ebay for $100.00 each. Same part number.

[Fisean]

Been there done that. This was caused by reverse polarity at a camp ground. not loose wires. You will need to call the company that bought Monaco out. I think its RVT.  It is a bummer but they will likely have the part or refer you to a vender that will. You're lucky you didn't have a fire, this has caused many RV's to burn up. Many of those transfer switches were recalled on numerous RV makes. It's not a Monaco exclusive thing, and a reverse polarity checker is a must. Lesson learned. A park near Niagara Falls was the culprit on ours and it was also the roof heat/Ac that exposed it. We never plug in without checking polarity now. The part was about 500.00 and an electrician needs to put it in or you can if you can find a very similar unit with wire posts identical basic electrical knowledge is a must. No guess work with electrical. We fixed ours on the road, you can to if you need. Good luck and that's our experience.

 

[Dr4Film]

Paul,

You really dodged a bullet on this one. Lesson learned, if you have a very strong electrical burning smell, find its source before the coach burns to the ground.

As Frank suggested, you have three options, replace it with the same model, replace it with a manual transfer switch or remove it and install a junction box but then you have to remember NEVER to run the AC and Washer/Dryer at the same time.

Also, do you have a Progressive Industries EMS system or some other brand that monitors the quality of the incoming shore power such that it will sever power when ANY aspect of the power quality goes out of specs? If not you had better get one installed pronto.

[Pduggs]

19 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Paul,

You really dodged a bullet on this one. Lesson learned, if you have a very strong electrical burning smell, find its source before the coach burns to the ground.

As Frank suggested, you have three options, replace it with the same model, replace it with a manual transfer switch or remove it and install a junction box but then you have to remember NEVER to run the AC and Washer/Dryer at the same time.

Also, do you have a Progressive Industries EMS system or some other brand that monitors the quality of the incoming shore power such that it will sever power when ANY aspect of the power quality goes out of specs? If not you had better get one installed pronto.

Are you referring to my transfer switch? See picture of it below. 

In our four years of ownership we never ran the AC and washer/dryer at the same time, because they wouldn’t run when all were turned on. 

In this instance, nothing else was on in the bedroom other than the heat pump. 

How can I check the electrical polarity at the pedestal with my volt meter?

[Dr4Film]

Paul, is there a remote display with that transfer switch that will indicate when there is a problem with the incoming power?

Here is a link that explains how to test the pedestal with a multi-meter prior to plugging in your coach.

https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electricity-easy-50-amp-measuring/

[jacwjames]

Amazon actually shows the module https://www.amazon.com/Intellitec-00-00714-000-Energy-Selector-Module/dp/B00ODIQ2VQ

 

Back ~7 years ago we had a lightening strike on the pole that fed power to our old house.  Lost one TV in the house but about a month later when we were getting ready to leave on a trip in the motorhome I noticed that there was not amp displayed on the EMS load meter, there should have been since we were plugged into a 20 amp circuit.  I ended up finding that lightening had taken out the EMS board and had to replace.

Decided to install a Progressive HW50C surge protector.  Beside surge it also checks the quality of the circuit you plug into and won't let it pass until it is OK.  It checks for both high/low voltage, open ground, and reversed polarity.  If is sees any of these it won't connect and will display a code so you know what the problem is.   First trip we took with it I had one instance of reversed polarity and one of low voltage. 

When I was building our new house I had put a 50 amp RV plug on the temporary pole, during the time I was plugged into it I saw several instances of low voltage, meaning it had to be below 108 volts for it to drop out.  I thought it might have been due to the temp service but after completing the house and plugged into a 50 amp RV plug that I had run I saw this again.  So started monitoring the voltage in the house on different plugs and found we had low voltage coming in.  I sent an email to the Coop explaining what was going on and I got a call the next week that said they checked voltage coming from the transformer feeding our area and they had one tap that was not adjusted correctly so to they turned it up and that solved the problem. 

[Pduggs]

7 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Paul, is there a remote display with that transfer switch that will indicate when there is a problem with the incoming power?

Here is a link that explains how to test the pedestal with a multi-meter prior to plugging in your coach.

https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electricity-easy-50-amp-measuring/

Thanks. I don’t have a remote panel. I’ll check the pedestal now. 

Edited November 11, 2021 by Pduggs

[Frank Bergamo]

Paul,

this is what I use to monitor incoming power. It is also available in a hard wire model. Cheap insurance to prevent any problem with incoming power. Hope this helps. https://www.amazon.com/PROGRESSIVE-INDUSTRIES-EMS-PT50X-Portable-Protector/dp/B01N9MOY7B/ref=sr_1_2?gclid=CjwKCAiAm7OMBhAQEiwArvGi3DmV5Kp6KYOScG7K_SyVoD1u2ZbeeboT7fWljiMr5LfB2acg6C-epBoCrYoQAvD_BwE&hvadid=190534251586&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9029184&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=12163922335955503142&hvtargid=kwd-298142485817&hydadcr=7527_9880923&keywords=progressive%2Bindustries%2Bems-pt50x&qid=1636654379&qsid=134-3108032-9214913&sr=8-2&sres=B01N9MOY7B%2CB07ZKZRHQ6%2CB08B1GC8J8%2CB07PRTZCF5%2CB07NW1Q52Z%2CB0050EH004%2CB007O6INSE%2CB09471J8Y7%2CB0050EGS5W%2CB088D723J4%2CB088D5PWFB%2CB002UC2UB8%2CB06XXP8YFM%2CB088D2JVN4%2CB088CWBBBM%2CB0009SQQ1A%2CB088CX994S%2CB07ZKZX42Z%2CB002UC4T08&th=1

[Fisean]

You can buy a polarity checker for RV's at the rv store or on line. This is the one I bought and we love it. Progressive Industries 50 Amp RV Receptacle Tester, RRT-50. Paying more fore one is not mean its better. We check every single time and it has a safety set up so you won't get a surge in your coach and that may have been what caused the failure. A mysterious surge. I understand it happens. Over all the Monaco are one of the best built coaches so don't let it bother you. The little boxes housing the electrical stuff are designed to contain a fire and the circuit breakers should trip before anything got too crazy. It still makes you think. 

 

[StephenW]

Last spring, after reading on this forum about the potential problems of a bad power supply to the coach I decided to install the Progressive Industries HW50C with the digital readout.  The first trip after installing this device I plugged in the coach and looked at the digital readout and saw an error code.  The power supply had reverse polarity and the HW50C would not allow power into the coach.  Then in October I plugged into a power supply but my transfer switch kept switching from shore power to inverter and with the digital readout I could see my power supply was fluctuating from 118v to 104v.  I think installing the PI HW50C was one of the better upgrades I have done to the coach so far.  Thanks to this forum I feel like I have really dodged a bullet to my wallet.

[Pduggs]

I checked the pedestal per this guy’s instructions https://youtu.be/9hmuUBWKwGo  The pedestal is good. 

I suspect the problem has something to do with the rear AC/heat pump unit. That was the only thing turned on when the smell occurred, and it had failed to run. I’m thinking I need an electrician to check it out. 

[Dr4Film]

Paul, the rear AC/Heat Pump will not run without a good working Intellitec Power Transfer Switch in place or one of the other options mentioned earlier.

If you don't have a remote display for the Surge Guard Power Transfer Switch how do you know if and when the unit sensed bad power and specifically what condition caused it to sever power such as an error code or a PE (previous error code)?

That's the beauty of the Progressive Industries EMS HW-50C device is that it has either a digital display on the device itself or it can come with a remote display that tells you exactly what is going on with the quality of your shore power.

[willbo777]

22 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Paul, the rear AC/Heat Pump will not run without a good working Intellitec Power Transfer Switch in place or one of the other options mentioned earlier.

If you don't have a remote display for the Surge Guard Power Transfer Switch how do you know if and when the unit sensed bad power and specifically what condition caused it to sever power such as an error code or a PE (previous error code)?

That's the beauty of the Progressive Industries EMS HW-50C device is that it has either a digital display on the device itself or it can come with a remote display that tells you exactly what is going on with the quality of your shore power.

That transfer switch shows its readout on the Aladdin screen.  I have the same transfer switch and it shows anything that is bad with the power and will not connect.

• Multi-mode surge suppression (fuse protected)
• Low (<95V) and High (>132V) Voltage
• Mis-wired pedestal
• Open neutral
• Open ground
• Reverse polarity
• High and low frequency

[Dr4Film]

Bill,

Thanks for that important bit of information. I am a newbie to the Aladdin System. Just starting to learn more about it as I am looking at newer coaches.

Is the Aladdin System also part of the Multiplex System?

[Bliksem]

Those intellitec boxes are prone to failure I have replace 2 of the 3 in my 09 HR. Amazon had the best price

[Dr4Film]

19 minutes ago, Bliksem said:

Those intellitec boxes are prone to failure I have replace 2 of the 3 in my 09 HR. Amazon had the best price

Would you please share where these three boxes are located in your coach and what function each one performs?

[Pduggs]

2 hours ago, willbo777 said:

That transfer switch shows its readout on the Aladdin screen.  I have the same transfer switch and it shows anything that is bad with the power and will not connect.

• Multi-mode surge suppression (fuse protected)
• Low (<95V) and High (>132V) Voltage
• Mis-wired pedestal
• Open neutral
• Open ground
• Reverse polarity
• High and low frequency

I’ve never seen this on my Aladdin. How do you access this information?

Edited November 11, 2021 by Pduggs

[96 EVO]

d***, a hinged door to gain access to the back of the laundry machines!

Spoiled Dynasty owners!

[willbo777]

12 hours ago, Pduggs said:

I’ve never seen this on my Aladdin. How do you access this information?

If you go to the electrical page it is there if there is a problem.  I often watch the electrical page as my wife hooks up and turns on the electric at a campsite.  That transfer and protection switch has saved us several times when the campground had a problem.

14 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Bill,

Thanks for that important bit of information. I am a newbie to the Aladdin System. Just starting to learn more about it as I am looking at newer coaches.

Is the Aladdin System also part of the Multiplex System?

No completely different, it has electrical page, engine page, fluids page, camera page, trip statistic and fuel mileage page, time.  You toggle through with a joy stick and read it on your monitor, we have one at the driver's seat and one in the bedroom, and a small tank readout at the plumbing bay.

[birdshill123]

Lots of confusing advice. We have a 2008 Dynasty. The switch the op has that is burnt is not a transfer switch. It is a priority switch that prevents the rear ac and dryer  to run at the same time depending on the power source. The transfer switch is in the basement. I do see any choices in the Alladin for changing  electrical settings. The 08 Dynasty uses a different Alladin.pge 110 of the owners manual states there is an automatic  Appliaance selector  for the washer/dryer and the rear air. I certainly agree that many times electrical  problems are caused by the cg power pedestal 

 

 

 

 

[Hypoxia]

The TRC 40250 Transfer Switch has a data connection to the Aladdin system.  It is a great display, you can monitor amp, voltage, solar, etc. on the Aladdin display.  A Signature has the ability to easily exceed 50 amps & I could watch the amps as things were turned on.  That was even more useful when on 30 amp power.  Mine failed in Mexico so I dissected it there, what a mistake!  I didn't realize there are no replacements that communicate with the Aladdin system.  I replaced it with a Southco 40350RVC and remote display which works great but I sure miss that data on the Aladdin.

I also had the Automatic Energy Selector fail a few years ago.  I replaced it and bought a spare.  Since it controls the rear A/C unit I want to be able to do a quick one time repair and get the A/C going again.

Edited November 12, 2021 by Hypoxia

[Pduggs]

1 hour ago, willbo777 said:

If you go to the electrical page it is there if there is a problem.  I often watch the electrical page as my wife hooks up and turns on the electric at a campsite.  That transfer and protection switch has saved us several times when the campground had a problem.

No completely different, it has electrical page, engine page, fluids page, camera page, trip statistic and fuel mileage page, time.  You toggle through with a joy stick and read it on your monitor, we have one at the driver's seat and one in the bedroom, and a small tank readout at the plumbing bay.

My Aladdin must be different from yours. Here is my main page. 
 

[willbo777]

5 minutes ago, birdshill123 said:

Lots of confusing advice. We have a 2008 Dynasty. The switch the op has that is burnt is not a transfer switch. It is a priority switch that prevents the rear ac and dryer  to run at the same time depending on the power source. The transfer switch is in the basement. I do see any choices in the Alladin for changing  electrical settings. The 08 Dynasty uses a different Alladin.pge 110 of the owners manual states there is an automatic  Appliaance selector  for the washer/dryer and the rear air. I certainly agree that many times electrical  problems are caused by the cg power pedestal 

I think there are two different discussions going on in this thread, one the load shedding, and the other the surge guard and transfer switch.  I didn't think anyone was confusing the two, but maybe they are.