2004 diplomat electrical receptacles stopped working.

[Freedomring]

Had oil heater plugged into kitchen receptacle, and the entire system shut off. Looked in the bedroom electrical breaker box, but no circuit breakers for that system are located there. Where is the secondary breaker location? New guy to this with a new older unit. Thanks for any help from the community.

[JDCrow]

The breakers are on your inverter, in the side compartment. There are 2 20 amp circut for your receptacles in the coach 

[Ron Van Arsdall]

Most likely the GFCI tripped. Usually a bathroom outlet will be GFCI. 

[JDCrow]

1 minute ago, Ron Van Arsdall said:

Most likely the GFCI tripped. Usually a bathroom outlet will be GFCI. 

Or This ^^^^

[Wrayj1]

Do you have a GFCI plug that you are aware of? All of our outlets, 10 or 11, are on a GFCI that trips occasionally. You might also check your inverter, ours has two fuses and occasionally one will pop out. 

[Rick A]

It’s dangerous to plug heaters into the system because if you plug in another appliance you will trip it. I put in a separate extension cord wired into the rig from the power bay under the bed, through the toilet under the fridge to the wall on the side of the fridge. Usually there’s a 15 amp plug on the shore power unit that you can use to pull an extra 15 amps without overloading the RV. 
Bet you trip the inverter. This is good for the inverter. 

[Dr4Film]

Yep! Everyone who has posted already is correct. Either a GFI outlet or the CB's on the Inverter have tripped.

Let us know what you find.

This time of year with people wanting to use heaters we always get similar problems from members.

Rick is right on with his solution.

It pays to know what the amp draw is of various devices and appliances listed in your Inverter manual.

[Ivylog]

The breaker the heater tripped is hard to find on the side of the inverter mounted on the ceiling of a basement bay. They are small round push to reset.

[Poppa G]

As mentioned check your inverter/converter,there are breakers that are little round black buttons .And if that being the case push the button in that has popped out that should restore your outlets.In the future if you are using the heater,don’t use microwave,air fryer,etc that is drawing hi wattage,if your going to use those appliances turn off heater.That’s our SOP.  Poppa G-         2003 HR Imperial-ISL400 -2015 Equinox LTZ

[1nolaguy]

I know this is redundant as every comment above is correct. Rick A's suggestion is a good one but make sure it is plugged into an outlet serviced directly from your main panel if using a couch outlet. In our 2004 Cheetah the wall outlets in the bed room (not the one that services the tv) are through the main panel and only have power when connected to shore power or the generator. All the other easily accessible 110v outlets are linked through the GFCI in the bathroom, which in  turn is linked through the inverter /converter. In our case this was until last year a Xantrex Freedom 458. Here are a few suggestions in the meantime. 1) do not run your electric heater above 1000 watts and do not run anything except it on a plugged in circuit at the same time. Periodically check the wall outlet and cord for heat. If hot shut it off. As a side note, last winter I noticed the outlets used were getting hot. These RV outlets only use a friction fit and now electrical box. I replaced them with shallow pan retrofit boxes (see lowes or HD) and commercial outlets using the screw terminals instead of friction ports. The result was greatly reduced heat generation at the outlets. This particular build design, having almost all the outlets connect through one GFCI and the I/C, IMO is poor and suggests only planned for light occasional use. I replaced my Xantrex with an Aims I/C this past spring and installed a sub-panel in the same bay. This spring I plan to split the two sides of the coach 110 service onto separate breakers so the drivers side will be on one breaker and the passenger side on a second one.

[JDCrow]

38 minutes ago, 1nolaguy said:

I know this is redundant as every comment above is correct. Rick A's suggestion is a good one but make sure it is plugged into an outlet serviced directly from your main panel if using a couch outlet. In our 2004 Cheetah the wall outlets in the bed room (not the one that services the tv) are through the main panel and only have power when connected to shore power or the generator. All the other easily accessible 110v outlets are linked through the GFCI in the bathroom, which in  turn is linked through the inverter /converter. In our case this was until last year a Xantrex Freedom 458. Here are a few suggestions in the meantime. 1) do not run your electric heater above 1000 watts and do not run anything except it on a plugged in circuit at the same time. Periodically check the wall outlet and cord for heat. If hot shut it off. As a side note, last winter I noticed the outlets used were getting hot. These RV outlets only use a friction fit and now electrical box. I replaced them with shallow pan retrofit boxes (see lowes or HD) and commercial outlets using the screw terminals instead of friction ports. The result was greatly reduced heat generation at the outlets. This particular build design, having almost all the outlets connect through one GFCI and the I/C, IMO is poor and suggests only planned for light occasional use. I replaced my Xantrex with an Aims I/C this past spring and installed a sub-panel in the same bay. This spring I plan to split the two sides of the coach 110 service onto separate breakers so the drivers side will be on one breaker and the passenger side on a second one.

Very smart. On our Dip 1/2 of the receptacles ran off the inverter, and half off shore power. When I replaced the inverter, I got rid of the block heater circuit and now it powers the half of the outlets that ran through the inverter. 
 

Inverter is now 100% pass through on shore power, or all plugs will fire off battery power now, though it’s thirsty if you you 😂

Edited December 26, 2021 by JDCrow

[Poppa G]

1 hour ago, JDCrow said:

Very smart. On our Dip 1/2 of the receptacles ran off the inverter, and half off shore power. When I replaced the inverter, I got rid of the block heater circuit and now it powers the half of the outlets that ran through the inverter. 
 

Inverter is now 100% pass through on shore power, or all plugs will fire off battery power now, though it’s thirsty if you you 😂

Hi JDCrow, I replaced the inverter with a Xantrex pure sine 3012 3000 watt inverter,also replace the 50amp auto relay. I have 2 panels in the coach ,one panel are gfci/arc breaker, the other panel are standard breakers for the shore power. I like the idea of using the block heater breaker to be able to be power the rest of the outlets through the inverter.the main breaker has 2 30amp legs that feed the converter,guess I have to figure out what’s feeding the shore and gen outlets.Always open to suggestions.

[JDCrow]

13 minutes ago, Poppa G said:

Hi JDCrow, I replaced the inverter with a Xantrex pure sine 3012 3000 watt inverter,also replace the 50amp auto relay. I have 2 panels in the coach ,one panel are gfci/arc breaker, the other panel are standard breakers for the shore power. I like the idea of using the block heater breaker to be able to be power the rest of the outlets through the inverter.the main breaker has 2 30amp legs that feed the converter,guess I have to figure out what’s feeding the shore and gen outlets.Always open to suggestions.

Mine was a bit easier as I have just 1 main breaker panel. The 2 circuit off the inverter were for microwave, and gfci plugs. 

1 set of plugs was already on the “bed room” breaker, (shore power). I had to run new Romex in the walls from the compartment up to panel to get the circuits all joined. I have 1 junction box now in the compartment. I moved my inverter over 1 compartment 

[Freedomring]

Thanks to all for your excellent advice. I'm out of state and away from the coach right now. When I return to Colorado I will attempt to repair the challenge to my electrical system. I did try to reset the GFCI receptacles with no positive outcome. So, I will go into the inverter.

Again, many thanks for your responses.

Larry

[noneuno]

Hi I'm having almost the same problem. I changed the GFI in bathroom to a new one. Did nothing. Lights all work and the outlet for micro works and 1 outlet by the bed and the bay heater outlet works. None of the breakers are tripped nor the inverter. The ems is lit up but shows no loads. The batteries are charging. I was thinking the transfer switch but its the same on generator or batteries. The fridge is on LP now as it went with the outlets. We plugged into a different 50 amp plug and it didn't change. Any suggestions would be great.

[Dr4Film]

Are you certain that both circuit breakers on the Inverter have been reset?

[noneuno]

Yes we have checked that?  Unless there is some we are unaware of. The wiring showed 3 gr8 outlets but we only found two . one I in the bathroom and one in the rear compartment. The gfi in the outside reset but the one in the bath will not.

[Dr4Film]

You have to solve the reason why the GFI in your bathroom will not reset first as that most likely affects other outlets downstream. Plus are you sure there are no GFI's in any of your storage bays?

[noneuno]

Not that we have been able to find. According to the wiring diagram there is supposed to be one by the kitchen sink bit it's just a regular outlet. This happened 2 nights ago while we were sleeping and nothing unusual was pulling power. How do we see why the GFI won't reset?

[Dr4Film]

It isn't resetting due to a faulty condition somewhere down stream from your bathroom GFI. Most RV GFI's are not standalone outlets as they usually protect more than just that single outlet. Time to disect your electrical system to find what is tripping the bathroom GFI.

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, noneuno said:

Yes we have checked that?  Unless there is some we are unaware of. The wiring showed 3 gr8 outlets but we only found two . one I in the bathroom and one in the rear compartment. The gfi in the outside reset but the one in the bath will not.

Richard makes some valid points.  And your knowledge and comments also indicate some better than perhaps average expertise.  I did have to help a member resolve an issue on a MH that sounds vaguely familiar. The circuit was NOT a typical “walk in the park” variety.  So, I will address this from two perspectives.

First….the problem you are having COULD not be related to the GFCI swap out.  So, lets deal with the usual suspects there.  The GFCI circuits actually are downstream circuits that are “passed through” the Inverter.  When you are on shore or genny, the 30Amp breaker is supplying voltage, current, power or whatever you call it….to the internal outlets.  These include the ones close to the sinks, the microwave, the icemaker and such.  Based on my recollection of the power circuit from the inverter, your “maze” of outlets had one “standalone” with NO downstream or other “Load” receptacles. It also had two GFCI’s that did…but one was only one….in addition it MAY have had an outlet that was NOT GFCI required.  YES….it was a mystery….

SO….assuming that you know that the 30  Inverter breaker is the source….then that also assumes that you know that the Intellitec EMS gets a “load” or current measurement via a toroidal coil located in the main panel.  So, you SHOULD, if the Inverter Charger was on an charging….or if an AC or water heater or refrigerator heating (assuming you have a gas/electric model) have seen a current draw…and there is nothing, unless you disconnected the harnesses or pigtails from the main EMS board that wuoud ave disconnect the coil or removed it.  The current coil is on the neutral. Just because the Magnum is “1A” doesn’t mean there is not a smidge more…and unless everything else was not on….BTW, even the Standby Mode of a TV or other home entertainment device will draw miniscuke amounts.

MY SUGGESTION. Locate the EMS Board. It is behind the brown panel cover.  Obviously no SHORE or genny on.  I recommend turning off the Salesman switch snd then the house disconnect battery switch.  There is a 3 amp fuse on the board….lower right in the panel.  I also pull the 3 or 4 connectors.  Leave it for 5 or so minutes to drain any stored or residual electrical charge or a “Gremlin”. Reconnect the plugs, then the fuse.  Turn on the battery disconnect switch and then turn back on the salesman switch..if you have not bypassed it.

Apply shore.  Then turn something like the water heater or use the microwave.  That USUALLY resets it.

NEXT UP.  GFCI.  Assuming you purchased one of the three recommended or approved Magnum ones.  Eaton (was Cooper) Wiring Devices or Hubbell or Leviton.  NOW a few folks, lately have not realized that the manufacturer have changed the wiring.  You must know or test the incoming LINE and then check the back of the GFCI.  Cooper has, due to many code restrictions, , reversed the terminals.  So just “pop it out”….one cable at a time…then carefully put the new one back and keep the front orientation the same.  OPPS!!  TOTALLY DEAD.  Will never reset.  So, use your VOM and KNOW the line side….then put the HOT cable (romex) to the line…

I have had licensed electricians get preoccupied and had to reverse a GFCI.  It happens.

Try the above…. NOT ONE PITFALL.  If you have an icemaker (your rig probably has TWO refrigerator outlets) and it, the icemaker, has even a “wee tiny”….far from lethal lesk, most GFCI’s will or may trip.  This is a false positive and many have had to rewire or discontinue plugging the icemaker line into the designated outlet snd using the 10 A refrigerator outlet instead.

[noneuno]

I do not have the ice maker plugged in at all. The water heater works. I assume it's on LP but it also plugs in and the water is hot. It has power. The micro has power and the one in the night stand has power and the block heater has power. The rest are all out. I'm going to try the ems reset .

[noneuno]

This the back side of the panel. This is the ems . I don't see a 3 amp fuse. Am I in the wrong panel? Are you talking about the the fuse panel? Or monitor panel? I got lost. 

[noneuno]

4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Richard makes some valid points.  And your knowledge and comments also indicate some better than perhaps average expertise.  I did have to help a member resolve an issue on a MH that sounds vaguely familiar. The circuit was NOT a typical “walk in the park” variety.  So, I will address this from two perspectives.

First….the problem you are having COULD not be related to the GFCI swap out.  So, lets deal with the usual suspects there.  The GFCI circuits actually are downstream circuits that are “passed through” the Inverter.  When you are on shore or genny, the 30Amp breaker is supplying voltage, current, power or whatever you call it….to the internal outlets.  These include the ones close to the sinks, the microwave, the icemaker and such.  Based on my recollection of the power circuit from the inverter, your “maze” of outlets had one “standalone” with NO downstream or other “Load” receptacles. It also had two GFCI’s that did…but one was only one….in addition it MAY have had an outlet that was NOT GFCI required.  YES….it was a mystery….

SO….assuming that you know that the 30  Inverter breaker is the source….then that also assumes that you know that the Intellitec EMS gets a “load” or current measurement via a toroidal coil located in the main panel.  So, you SHOULD, if the Inverter Charger was on an charging….or if an AC or water heater or refrigerator heating (assuming you have a gas/electric model) have seen a current draw…and there is nothing, unless you disconnected the harnesses or pigtails from the main EMS board that wuoud ave disconnect the coil or removed it.  The current coil is on the neutral. Just because the Magnum is “1A” doesn’t mean there is not a smidge more…and unless everything else was not on….BTW, even the Standby Mode of a TV or other home entertainment device will draw miniscuke amounts.

MY SUGGESTION. Locate the EMS Board. It is behind the brown panel cover.  Obviously no SHORE or genny on.  I recommend turning off the Salesman switch snd then the house disconnect battery switch.  There is a 3 amp fuse on the board….lower right in the panel.  I also pull the 3 or 4 connectors.  Leave it for 5 or so minutes to drain any stored or residual electrical charge or a “Gremlin”. Reconnect the plugs, then the fuse.  Turn on the battery disconnect switch and then turn back on the salesman switch..if you have not bypassed it.

Apply shore.  Then turn something like the water heater or use the microwave.  That USUALLY resets it

Well that did not change anything. Will check the other things you said tomorrow and get back with those results. Took off the GFI in the bathroom again to make sure it wasn't getting any line power and it does not. 

 

I apologize . I do not understand the quote thing and I mashed in the wrong block.

[Tom Cherry]

8 hours ago, noneuno said:

This the back side of the panel. This is the ems . I don't see a 3 amp fuse. Am I in the wrong panel? Are you talking about the the fuse panel? Or monitor panel? I got lost. 

What you have is pictures of the back of the panel.  The actual EMS control or PCB is under the brown panel.  WITH POWER OFF... you removed the screws and you will see the EMS in the lower right corner.  Don't have a good picture, but it is easy to spot.  The fuse is sometimes "hidden" or may be tucked behind a wiring harness.  There are 3 or 4 connectors on the board as well as the fuse.  They only go in one specific location....but verify that the ends look different.  Intellitec could have made some changes.

FWIW, the EMS remote, in your picture) is actually just that.  A DUMB DISPLAY.  The only button on is is the 20-30 Amp toggle.  The display or remote that you see is just like a "TV SCREEN", if I can be simplistic.  It only displays WHAT the EMS Control PCB under the brown cover panel tells it.

NOW....FWIW, the Magnum Remote is actually an "Intelligent" device.  It is a "remote display" that provides information.  Just like the Intellitec EMS.  However, it is also a programming device, so with the various buttons you can change the internal parameters of the Inverter.  The Inverter will actually "RUN AND FUNCTION" without it.  When folks have issues, they do a SOFT RESET, which powers it down....then a total power up, liked the EMS will reboot it and it will work. The Inverter has an internal set of Parameters or the DEFAULT settings.  If you reboot a Magnum and have issues, then the "TRY THIS" fix is to disconnect the Remote (pull the phone line at the Inverter or unplug...as in you picture) the phone line.  Then, the Magnum inverter comes back on as a "STAND ALONE".  It is designed to work properly with "our rigs
and it defaults to a 4 battery House bank.  Often the Remote will have issues and will change parameters or not let you program them.  

Just a little more "Education".

Try resetting the EMS and that should resolve the issues....otherwise...then the EMS is defective or the Remote is bad. 

Hope this makes sense