waterskier_1 Posted January 8, 2022 Share Posted January 8, 2022 No. Well you are as long as you are holding the Battery Boost switch, but that doesn't really count. Any voltage reading above 13.3 Volts means there is a charge being applied to the battery. So, when you press the Boost, it energizes the solenoid, and the house battery charger is also applied to the chassis battery. But when you release the boost, the solenoid opens, and the battery voltage drops below 13.3 Volts, indicating that that battery is no longer being charged. I do not have a wiring diagram for that year Camelot, so I can't say for sure if it should charge the chassis batteries from shore power or not. I can say that it is not charging them. There are aftermarket devices that will allow you to, or you can rewire your coach which will also allow you to charge the chassis batteries. I do NOT recommend just sitting the solenoid so it is allay on though. That is stupid. You no longer have any isolation between the chassis & house battery banks and either system can drain the other. If that is acceptable, get rid of the solenoid entirely, and just connect both battery banks together. That will yield the same results with less components. - Rick N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weighman695 Posted January 8, 2022 Author Share Posted January 8, 2022 11 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said: No. Well you are as long as you are holding the Battery Boost switch, but that doesn't really count. Any voltage reading above 13.3 Volts means there is a charge being applied to the battery. So, when you press the Boost, it energizes the solenoid, and the house battery charger is also applied to the chassis battery. But when you release the boost, the solenoid opens, and the battery voltage drops below 13.3 Volts, indicating that that battery is no longer being charged. I do not have a wiring diagram for that year Camelot, so I can't say for sure if it should charge the chassis batteries from shore power or not. I can say that it is not charging them. There are aftermarket devices that will allow you to, or you can rewire your coach which will also allow you to charge the chassis batteries. I do NOT recommend just sitting the solenoid so it is allay on though. That is stupid. You no longer have any isolation between the chassis & house battery banks and either system can drain the other. If that is acceptable, get rid of the solenoid entirely, and just connect both battery banks together. That will yield the same results with less components. - Rick N Thank you Rick, I am leaning on buying one of this : http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html. Do you think this will resolve my issue? It looks like it is a $55.00 plus tax fix. If I decide to buy one of this, will it affect any of the current charging operation of the coach? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterskier_1 Posted January 8, 2022 Share Posted January 8, 2022 Yes, that will allow your inverter/ charger powered by shore power or generator and also solar when available to also charge your chassis battery. I prefer to say "maintain" vs "charge" since it's not designed to charge a dead battery. Instead, it will keep a mousing charged battery charged, whenever the house battery is being charged. Yes it will affect the coach charging by adding the capability to charge the chassis battery whenever the house battery is being charged. But it will not negatively affect any other charging. - Rick N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weighman695 Posted January 8, 2022 Author Share Posted January 8, 2022 9 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said: Yes, that will allow your inverter/ charger powered by shore power or generator and also solar when available to also charge your chassis battery. I prefer to say "maintain" vs "charge" since it's not designed to charge a dead battery. Instead, it will keep a mousing charged battery charged, whenever the house battery is being charged. Yes it will affect the coach charging by adding the capability to charge the chassis battery whenever the house battery is being charged. But it will not negatively affect any other charging. - Rick N Thank you so much Rick. Will I benefit more on this product http://www.lslproducts.net/ALS_Overview_Page.html instead of this product http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html? Or is it overkill. Again, I really appreciate your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weighman695 Posted January 8, 2022 Author Share Posted January 8, 2022 1 hour ago, waterskier_1 said: Yes, that will allow your inverter/ charger powered by shore power or generator and also solar when available to also charge your chassis battery. I prefer to say "maintain" vs "charge" since it's not designed to charge a dead battery. Instead, it will keep a mousing charged battery charged, whenever the house battery is being charged. Yes it will affect the coach charging by adding the capability to charge the chassis battery whenever the house battery is being charged. But it will not negatively affect any other charging. - Rick N Rick, I am just exploring my options and I want to learn too. Can I also use a 120 Volts Schumacher 1.5 amp float charger which is in my storage for almost t 5 years now? I have an electrical outlet in my battery compartment where I can plug the float charger. I assume I have to connect the positive lead to the positive lug and the negative lead to the negative lug of the house batteries. Do I need to unplug the float charger when I am going to travel and when the generator will be turned on? Or, can I just install and forget? Newbie who would like to learn here. Thanks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterskier_1 Posted January 8, 2022 Share Posted January 8, 2022 11 hours ago, weighman695 said: Rick, I am just exploring my options and I want to learn too. Can I also use a 120 Volts Schumacher 1.5 amp float charger which is in my storage for almost t 5 years now? I have an electrical outlet in my battery compartment where I can plug the float charger. I assume I have to connect the positive lead to the positive lug and the negative lead to the negative lug of the house batteries. Do I need to unplug the float charger when I am going to travel and when the generator will be turned on? Or, can I just install and forget? Newbie who would like to learn here. Thanks... Yes, you could use that float charger, but you would connect it to the CHASSIS Batteries. The house batteries will be charged anytime you have shore power, and this float charger would keep up on the Chassis battery, when you have shore power (but remember, you might have to switch the battery compartment outlet, likely for the Block Heater, to on, if applicable). You do not need to unplug it when the generator is on. The generator and shore power both work the same for charging the house batteries. But remember, you also will have the alternator charging both when the main engine is running. 12 hours ago, weighman695 said: Thank you so much Rick. Will I benefit more on this product http://www.lslproducts.net/ALS_Overview_Page.html instead of this product http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html? Or is it overkill. Again, I really appreciate your help. The only difference between the two is that one is 15 Amps and the other is 10 Amps. As long as you are not running devices connected to the chassis battery (headlights, tail lights, wipers, etc.) the 10 Amp would be sufficient. -Rick N. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weighman695 Posted January 8, 2022 Author Share Posted January 8, 2022 1 minute ago, waterskier_1 said: Yes, you could use that float charger, but you would connect it to the CHASSIS Batteries. The house batteries will be charged anytime you have shore power, and this float charger would keep up on the Chassis battery, when you have shore power (but remember, you might have to switch the battery compartment outlet, likely for the Block Heater, to on, if applicable). You do not need to unplug it when the generator is on. The generator and shore power both work the same for charging the house batteries. But remember, you also will have the alternator charging both when the main engine is running. Thanks Rick, "But remember, you also will have the alternator charging both when the main engine is running." Will there be a negative impact to the electrical system or batteries if both the alternator are charging when the main engine is running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterskier_1 Posted January 8, 2022 Share Posted January 8, 2022 40 minutes ago, weighman695 said: Thanks Rick, "But remember, you also will have the alternator charging both when the main engine is running." Will there be a negative impact to the electrical system or batteries if both the alternator are charging when the main engine is running? I think you are asking if there will be an impact if the GENERATOR is running when the main engine is running (the alternator is on the main engine). The answer is no, but, depending on how your Alternator Fail (ALT-FAIL) circuit is wired, you may get an intermittent light on the dash. This is not a problem, just the ALT-FAIL circuit being confused by two charging sources. You could unplug the 110 VAC maintainer if it bothers you. -Rick N. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weighman695 Posted January 8, 2022 Author Share Posted January 8, 2022 26 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said: I think you are asking if there will be an impact if the GENERATOR is running when the main engine is running (the alternator is on the main engine). The answer is no, but, depending on how your Alternator Fail (ALT-FAIL) circuit is wired, you may get an intermittent light on the dash. This is not a problem, just the ALT-FAIL circuit being confused by two charging sources. You could unplug the 110 VAC maintainer if it bothers you. -Rick N. 26 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said: I think you are asking if there will be an impact if the GENERATOR is running when the main engine is running (the alternator is on the main engine). The answer is no, but, depending on how your Alternator Fail (ALT-FAIL) circuit is wired, you may get an intermittent light on the dash. This is not a problem, just the ALT-FAIL circuit being confused by two charging sources. You could unplug the 110 VAC maintainer if it bothers you. -Rick N. 26 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said: I think you are asking if there will be an impact if the GENERATOR is running when the main engine is running (the alternator is on the main engine). The answer is no, but, depending on how your Alternator Fail (ALT-FAIL) circuit is wired, you may get an intermittent light on the dash. This is not a problem, just the ALT-FAIL circuit being confused by two charging sources. You could unplug the 110 VAC maintainer if it bothers you. -Rick N. Got it. Thank you very much for explaining all that to me. I really appreciate it. I learn a lot from this forum and I am really grateful to everyone who took their time, knowledge and experience explaining the principle behind the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weighman695 Posted January 8, 2022 Author Share Posted January 8, 2022 37 minutes ago, weighman695 said: Got it. Thank you very much for explaining all that to me. I really appreciate it. I learn a lot from this forum and I am really grateful to everyone who took their time, knowledge and experience explaining the principle behind the issue. One more question Rick, if I decided to buy the Amp-L-Star (http://www.lslproducts.net/ALS_Overview_Page.html), is the attached picture that shows assumptions where the wires will be connected correct. If not, please let me know how. Thanks.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weighman695 Posted January 8, 2022 Author Share Posted January 8, 2022 36 minutes ago, weighman695 said: One more question Rick, if I decided to buy the Amp-L-Star (http://www.lslproducts.net/ALS_Overview_Page.html), is the attached picture that shows assumptions where the wires will be connected correct. If not, please let me know how. Thanks.... Also, as you can see on the rear electrical bay picture that I attached, I have a 20A solar controller. I have only 1-100watts solar panel on my rig's roof. based on the connections that you see in the picture, which batteries are being charged by the solar; house only, both house and chassis or chassis only? With this solar in the mix, will there be a problem if I install Amp-L-Start? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Laursen Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 Earnel Your 07 Camelot was not equipped with a way to charge the chassis batteries when connected to shore power as it came from the factory. The Trombetta relay is the interconnect relay between the chassis and house batteries. It's power to close comes from the chassis batteries. You have replaced it with the silver contact version so that is a good move. I recommend you get an Amp-L-Start from LSL. It is the easiest to install in your coach and will charge the chassis batteries when connected to shore power. There are many more devices that have been discussed on this forum and they also work. LSL Products / LSLProducts.com - Problem-Solving Gear & Gadgets 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chip4872 Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 (edited) 49 minutes ago, Larry Laursen said: Earnel Your 07 Camelot was not equipped with a way to charge the chassis batteries when connected to shore power as it came from the factory. The Trombetta relay is the interconnect relay between the chassis and house batteries. It's power to close comes from the chassis batteries. You have replaced it with the silver contact version so that is a good move. I recommend you get an Amp-L-Start from LSL. It is the easiest to install in your coach and will charge the chassis batteries when connected to shore power. There are many more devices that have been discussed on this forum and they also work. LSL Products / LSLProducts.com - Problem-Solving Gear & Gadgets I had the same issue with my 2007 Camelot 40 PDQ...chassis battery not charging on shore power. The Amp-L-Start will solve the issue, along with the new batteries. Your connection diagram is correct, and the ground can be connected at the stud with the bundle of white wires, upper left. Edited January 9, 2022 by chip4872 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterskier_1 Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 Most of your questions have been answered. As far as the solar goes, it depends on the controller. On my Dynasty, the controller had outputs for both the chassis and house batteries. I threw it out and went with an efficient controller when I added solar panels, so I can't say how good a job it would do. I can tell you that 100 Watts is not much - it is basically enough to maintain the batteries with everything shut off, like while in storage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weighman695 Posted January 9, 2022 Author Share Posted January 9, 2022 Thank you very much everyone. Today, I just placed the order for an Amp-L-Start device and will be installing as shown on my most recent diagram. I am now confident that I know what I will be doing. Thanks to this forum..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Laursen Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 From the photo you posted, your solar controller is for one battery. This was the standard set-up for Monaco then. I had the same thing in mine. You will need to trace the wires coming from the controller to see what battery is being charged and if the connection is directly to the battery and not through the battery disconnect switch. On mine the battery disconnect switch disconnected the power from the solar controller. I installed a dual battery control and hook up directly to the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weighman695 Posted January 11, 2022 Author Share Posted January 11, 2022 As I have posted above, I replaced the Trombetta (solenoid) with a silver alloy contacts and the two 31-MHD batteries. I left Las Vegas this morning and traveled south. Everything went smooth until I reached my destination (about 155 miles of travel). As I reached my destination and trying to find parking spot, the ALT. CHARGE on my dashboard began beeping and flashing. According to my manual, ALT. CHARGE means failure within the alternator charging system. After about 3 minutes of beeping and before I turned off the engine, the beeping and flahing went away. I remove the trombetta and the two batteries and replaced them exactly how I removed them (same terminals). What do I need to look at in order to resolve the issue? I am leaving early in the morning tomorrow for another 175 miles of travel. What do I do if this issue repeats again? Can I just ignore it until I reach my destination? If I ignore it, will it damage more parts or system? HELP...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J A Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 Batterys being charged?? Status of charge?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weighman695 Posted January 12, 2022 Author Share Posted January 12, 2022 As I have posted above, I replaced the Trombetta (solenoid) with a silver alloy contacts and the two 31-MHD batteries. I left Las Vegas this morning and traveled south. Everything went smooth until I reached my destination (about 155 miles of travel). As I reached my destination and trying to find parking spot, the ALT. CHARGE on my dashboard began beeping and flashing. According to my manual, ALT. CHARGE means failure within the alternator charging system. After about 3 minutes of beeping and before I turned off the engine, the beeping and flahing went away. I remove the trombetta and the two batteries and replaced them exactly how I removed them (same terminals). What do I need to look at in order to resolve the issue? I am leaving early in the morning tomorrow for another 175 miles of travel. What do I do if this issue repeats again? Can I just ignore it until I reach my destination? If I ignore it, will it damage more parts or system? HELP...... Thanks to everyone. I think I found what the culprit is. I am now safely back at home. Yesterday morning before I left my stop, I checked all the battery connections of the new chassis batteries. Sure enough, one of the nuts are not properly tightened. That could be causing the Alt. Charge to flash and beep. After tightening and travelling about 175 miles to home, the beeping and flashing was gone. Never showed up again. I will test all voltages again to make sure the batteries are being charged when engine is running, when generator is running and when engine and generstor are both running.Thank you for all your help.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdinsmore Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 Earnel, I did not read all of the Replies you've received so my apologies if the following has been addressed. Your original writeup sounds like you depress the boost switch for a couple of minutes and then try to start the engine. The way to use the switch is to hold the switch depressed while you start the engine. This connects the two battery banks DURING the start. You can test this out by running you battery run down and then trying to start the engine. I think this is the fix for your problem: YouTube may have let you down. When I first got the coach, sadly I also had the same misunderstanding that the chassis batteries were charged when plugged into shore power. I fixed it by installing a Trik-L-Charge. It's inexpensive and has worked flawlessly for several years. There are other more expensive solutions. Earnel, I did not read all of the Replies you've received so my apologies if the following has been addressed. Your original writeup sounds like you depress the boost switch for a couple of minutes and then try to start the engine. The way to use the switch is to hold the switch depressed while you start the engine. This connects the two battery banks DURING the start. You can test this out by running you battery run down and then trying to start the engine. I think this is the fix for your problem: YouTube may have let you down. When I first got the coach, sadly I also had the same misunderstanding that the chassis batteries were charged when plugged into shore power. I fixed it by installing a Trik-L-Charge. It's inexpensive and has worked flawlessly for several years. There are other more expensive solutions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weighman695 Posted January 13, 2022 Author Share Posted January 13, 2022 2 hours ago, bobdinsmore said: Earnel, I did not read all of the Replies you've received so my apologies if the following has been addressed. Your original writeup sounds like you depress the boost switch for a couple of minutes and then try to start the engine. The way to use the switch is to hold the switch depressed while you start the engine. This connects the two battery banks DURING the start. You can test this out by running you battery run down and then trying to start the engine. I think this is the fix for your problem: YouTube may have let you down. When I first got the coach, sadly I also had the same misunderstanding that the chassis batteries were charged when plugged into shore power. I fixed it by installing a Trik-L-Charge. It's inexpensive and has worked flawlessly for several years. There are other more expensive solutions. Earnel, I did not read all of the Replies you've received so my apologies if the following has been addressed. Your original writeup sounds like you depress the boost switch for a couple of minutes and then try to start the engine. The way to use the switch is to hold the switch depressed while you start the engine. This connects the two battery banks DURING the start. You can test this out by running you battery run down and then trying to start the engine. I think this is the fix for your problem: YouTube may have let you down. When I first got the coach, sadly I also had the same misunderstanding that the chassis batteries were charged when plugged into shore power. I fixed it by installing a Trik-L-Charge. It's inexpensive and has worked flawlessly for several years. There are other more expensive solutions. Bob, Yes, I did depressed and held the battery boost switch for about 2 minutes and started the engine while the switched are pressed and held. No go. That's when I started reaching out to the group. I ended up replacing the Trombetta solenoid and the two Interstate 31-MHD batteries. My voltage reading now on both solenoid lugs are the same compared to the old solenoid which read two different voltages. Now I think all is good. We'll see on my next trip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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