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2000 Dynasty 40’ will not start


Fasthobie16
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Turned on ignition switch to start. No start. Both solenoids in the forward fuse panel are energized with switch on. Starter solenoid in rear start panel does not energize. I’ve left the ignition switch on and jumped the starter solenoid. The engine rolls over but won’t start. All battles are up  full voltage. I’ve noticed on the dashboard lights when switch is on that I don’t have the “wait to start “ light now. Wiring diagram has a relay from the “neutral safety switch “ that fires the engine start solenoid located next to it. Trans is indicating neutral. ISC350 Cumins. Any suggestions really appreciated. 

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One thing that is easy to try is turn the ignition to on and then try to start it from the rear engine bay.  Sometimes that works if the switch is bad.

something else... if you have the fuel system that has a push button primer on it... you might cycle that a few times just to make sure you have no air in the line.  This would be secondary to once you get the engine to turn over.  Those are the simple things to try. 

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Had a similar no start condition. The wait to start message on the instrument panel would not light, but the engine would turn over - no start.

Found that there was a voltage leak due to a frayed cable from the alternator - sparks. Cleaned up the cable everything works.

Another item. The power from the front ignition goes first to the rear start switch and from there to the neutral relay before powering the solenoid in the rear run bay, then to the starter solenoid on the starter.

Please let us know your results.

Joe 03 Exec PBDD

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I'm in the Gulf Coast of Mississippi. Lows of 33 highs upper 50 degrees F.   

 jfbolkovatz

 Don’t think I’ve got a rear start switch but I’ll hunt real hard to find one. While I’m looking, I’ll check out loose connections and shorts.  Thanks 

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Thanks Jim,

You are right. It’s in the upper right corner of the engine bay.  Two switches. One is front-off-rear. The other Igor rear start. Can’t believe I’ve not noticed them before. Front- rear switch was  in the off position. Don’t know how that happened. Moved to forward. Turned on ignition and dashboard lights all normal. Turned to start and it fired right up. I knew it would be something simple. All I had to do was look around better. 

Now it’s on to my EMS -LCHW50 problem  keeps shutting down when I don’t have anything on but the tv and AquaHot (burner off)  zone one on only. 

I appreciate all the responses given. Thanks again,Jim 

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28 minutes ago, Fasthobie16 said:

Thanks Jim,

You are right. It’s in the upper right corner of the engine bay.  Two switches. One is front-off-rear. The other is rear start. Can’t believe I’ve not noticed them before. Front- rear switch was  in the off position. Don’t know how that happened. Moved to forward. Turned on ignition and dashboard lights all normal. Turned to start and it fired right up. I knew it would be something simple. All I had to do was look around better. 

Now it’s on to my EMS -LCHW50 problem  keeps shutting down when I don’t have anything on but the tv and AquaHot (burner off)  zone one on only. 

I appreciate all the responses given. Thanks again,Jim 

 

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Chuck

 I know. Voltages good on both legs.  Very small amps. No codes showing. Could be a relay or board inside of the unit. Will give the Progressive Tech a call. This is a recent problem occurring. Can’t run the microwave or A/C without loosing power momentarily anymore. What’s nice about this EMS is it’s serviceable. 

Jim 

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My 6 years of full timing experiences with EMS 50C is that there were some power situations I have been connected to were not good quality power.  It took me some time to learn to depend on what the unit was doing.  I would find a different power source before I questioned the 50C.  IMO, the best protection the 50C provided was open neutral protection.  I remember a time when the power leg I was on experienced a open neutral.  All coaches on that power leg were destroyed because they did not have open neutral protection.  

Your appliance failure in your coach was after commercial power was in your coach after it left the 50C.

Remember the unit gives you protection from too low and too high voltage.  I noticed the protection when a lot of air conditioners were being used.

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Chuck,

How true. I’m at my home base with reliable power (most of the time).ill be checking out wire connections and my shore power cord. All wiring connections in panel to 50 amp receptacle are tight. 50 amp breaker w/#6 awg feeding it. Mounted next to the panel outside at house  

Jim

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If you have the Winn fuel bleeder system look at the clear cannister and hit the bleed button. If no fuel is coming through you have a tiny o ring on the bottom of the clear cannister that if bad will suck air when cranking. It's easy to replace.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Today I went through the entire electrical supply to the coach. All connections are correct and tight and clean throughout the circuit. Ohmed out my power cable. Good resistance on all conductors. Voltages at 122 VAC on each leg  EMS.  While I had the EMS cover off, I wiggled the display card and control board.  Then I energized the power. All looked good so I commenced to turn on the microwave. Then the A/C ( each on different legs). All amp-rages  and voltages were normal on read out.  Added more loads. No EMS tripping yet. Before I did the check out, I couldn’t run anything over 5 amps without loosing power within seconds. All I can figure is the board connections were dirty.  This problem had started within the last month or so. Think the EMS is okay. Keeping my fingers crossed.  Thanks all.  

Jim 2000 Dynasty EMS LCHW50

Edited by Fasthobie16
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On 1/13/2022 at 10:46 AM, Fasthobie16 said:

Can’t run the microwave or A/C without loosing power momentarily anymore

That's how I found my electrical problem in my distribution panel. The lights would flicker when I turned the microwave on. I changed out the whole panel and the  breakers. No problems since. 

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