Roger 2006 HR Endeavor PDQ Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 I have had to make a number of repairs to our toilet. It is a simple design with a direct dump of waste into the black tank. Among the things that have broken are the pedal operated flush valve cable, the flush valve itself, and the flush valve seal. When I have reinstalled the toilet with a new closet seal, the base of the toilet is not in contact with the floor. I have tried placing shims under the perimeter of the base, but that has not done much to help. There is no leakage visible under the toilet and no odor. Am I doing something wrong? I have thought about trying to make a plexiglas support under the base, but the closet seal has to be compressed to prevent leaks. Too much shimming could jeopardize that purpose. Any suggestions? Roger (2006 HR Endeavor PDQ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Sibley Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 I have always mixed up some tile grout and forced it into the gap all the way around the perimeter. Smooth the exposed surface to blend seamlessly with base and floor. Do it in the evening and let dry and solidify overnight. Never had any rocking after that and it looks good too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidL Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 Yes, what Andrew S suggests. You can also use silicone around the base. Grout would be better if it's a larger gap. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terryjean Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 When we had our toilet worked on the plumper said the toilet should rock. Is this wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick A Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 14 minutes ago, Terryjean said: When we had our toilet worked on the plumper said the toilet should rock. Is this wrong? That is strange because we have the porcelain toilet and it bolts to the floor. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terryjean Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 Ours is porcelain as well . Seems you can’t always get good help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger 2006 HR Endeavor PDQ Posted January 16, 2022 Author Share Posted January 16, 2022 3 hours ago, Andrew Sibley said: I have always mixed up some tile grout and forced it into the gap all the way around the perimeter. Smooth the exposed surface to blend seamlessly with base and floor. Do it in the evening and let dry and solidify overnight. Never had any rocking after that and it looks good too. AndrewS and DavidL, Thanks for your suggestions. I am hesitant to grout or caulk around the base because I want to know if there's a leak before it damages the floor. The base bolts to the flange on the top of the waste pipe. I'll think about your suggestions. Our toilet has a plastic base and a porcelain bowl. A few months ago I discovered some floor rot around the waste pipe. It didn't look serious, but I did grout up the affected area. The flange appears to be a bit above the floor. The Thetford instructions included tightening the mounting bolts firmly enough to keep the toilet from rocking. The next time I get a chance to unbolt the toilet from the floor and see how the flange is attached. Will be a couple of weeks. I'll post what I find and see what your think. Roger (2006 HR Endeavor) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenW Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 When setting toilets on a hard surface, tile or cement, I pack grout under the base to prevent rocking which can eventually cause problems with the flange seal. I leave a small gap in the grout or caulking at the back of the toilet base to allow any leaking water to escape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger 2006 HR Endeavor PDQ Posted January 16, 2022 Author Share Posted January 16, 2022 StephenW Damage to the flange seal is what I'm worried about. I'll try your method with a gap in the back. I really wish it was possible to see how the toilet seats on the waste pipe. Do you have to scrape and replace the grout every time you have to remove it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck B 2004 Windsor Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 If you can gain access to the area under the toilet to see if the floor directly under the toilet and the floor tile is wet and dry rotted. If so, all the grout, cement, and grout will not reinforce the area. The wood blocks are what the toilet is screwed to. If that area is wet or dry rotted, it will have to be replaced for a perminate repair. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenW Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 (edited) I agree with Chuck B about the solid flooring under the tile. Without the solid wood under the tile the toilet will not be solid on the tile. Yes I cleaned the grout and put in new grout each time I pulled and reset a toilet. Good luck! Edited January 17, 2022 by StephenW spelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6Wheels Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 As stated start with a good level floor and check for soft spots. That is the most important thing to address. After that just make sure the gasket is seated properly and hand-tighten the bolts, then just a couple more turns. After sitting on it for a couple days it will settle and you can finish tightening the bolts. If that doesn't work you have a problem with the floor. Setting toilets is not hard, the worst that can happen is cracking the base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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