Jump to content

House Battery Roll Out Tray


thompson_skip

Recommended Posts

15 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

Good job, you'll love those battery miser caps.

I'm curious about why the short cables cross vs having them separated.  I'm wondering if was configured that way when it was built.

IMG_20170421_121448402.jpg

I am the second owner and this is how it was set up when I bought the coach.  I just assumed it was right and the batteries seem to test with the correct voltage and provide sufficient power, running my Samsung it go from ~90% charge to ~70% overnight. 

But I will confess it is confusing as to how they are wired in a set of batteries in parallel.  If they are wrong I'll see if I can change them.  Based on your photo would be easy to do. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I spent time searching for alternative methods to connect my batteries.  Could not find one example of the way mine were connected.  

I do not know the previous owner but believe he must have had some decent electrical skills with some of the modes that he had done.  He actually added a 3 button momentary grouped switch and added extra dump valves so the coach can be manually leveled with the air bags.  He had detailed this in the wiring diagram for the chassis.  Never used it but I've got to give him credit. 

So this AM I went back out and tested voltages again and all the batteries maintain ~6.4 volts individually and ~12.8 combined.  But damned if I could figure out the combination of two batteries in series and the two in series.  But I know that I seemed to have decent battery life lasting +8 hours boon docking and batteries depleting from ~90% t0 ~70% overnight. 

But I've decided to adhere to conventional wisdom and change the wiring as Frank had in his pictures. 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At times when I need to disconnect these batteries, I simply loosen the small jumper connections between the batteries, take one end of the jumper off the terminal and move it away.  I find this more convenient especially if I want to check individual battery voltages.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, georgecederholm said:

Our 2005 Exec has the exact same configuration with the batteries mounted the same way (horizontal then vertical). In fact, since we have two trays, we have this twice. Changed the batteries numerous times over the years and never changed wiring setup.

I’d vote for the “if it’s not broke don’t fix it” approach unless there was some other reason to change. JMHO.

The fact that Monaco did it with the criss crossed or overlapping cables does not make it right or good practice.  If this were inside a panel, it would be corrected as most electrical inspectors would defer to the “best and safest practices” clauses.  Not to disparage your “if it ain’t….” comment.  It ain’t broke, but if it does break….there is going to be a real issue.  

We have an ongoing post about a fire that resulted from some “rubbing cables”.  Fortunately the poster was quick to disconnect.  The comments in this case called out the potential for these overlapping cables to chaff or wear and then “ARC & SPARK”…big time.  I can cite you many instances where Monaco used poor practices or ignored the instructions by a component vendor and it resulted in a failure.  We have one open thread now about now following instructions and Intellitec boards failing due to overloading a relay that was never sized for the load Monaco “wired” on it.

The intent of this site is to assist fellow owners in resolving issues and/or prevent problems.  We Moderators also have the responsibility to make comments, up to and including deletion of posts that could result in accidents or failures or events that endanger human lives or the MH.  

It is your MH and your decision, but best practice to prevent a major high current “meltdown” would be to relocate or replace the overlapping cables with the conventional jumpers that run from negative to positive and are NOT overlapped. 

YES.  odds of chafing and/or wearing through are small….but why risk it on a high current connection?

The picture is the best and safest recommendation.  YES, Monaco often substituted or used long “cables” and carelessly had them draped over jumpers.  Those of us that have seen screwdrivers welded to connectors when a supposedly trained electrician tried to trip a breaker rather than doing if from the panel are a bit sensitive.  The batteries have NO FUSED protection in the box.

Again, don’t take this personally….the intent is to ensure that all know this arrangement has a potential for a mega “mess”…but each member has to assess the risk…

FD20BF53-178A-48A2-9ADB-DD822CC6EED6.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did change mine so that they don't cross but the are longer then should be, it was a little bit of a chore to wire them that way  and as a result both touch in the center.   They do have the black wire loom protection over them.  

 

FWIW, most of my modes are because of someones post on an improvement either for safety or best practice.   I'm in the process of scoping out installing a battery monitor as the reading I've done indicates this is best practice for being able to monitor battery status and amp draw.  

Besides, I have nothing better to spend my money on!🤬

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's what I'm hoping.  The Xantrex inverter display doesn't provide a clear picture of what the battery status is.  I had been letting my coach sit for a couple days unplugged watching the % of charge, I let it drop to 80% and then plugged in.  Immediately the display read 60% as it started to charge. 

I went ahead and ordered the BMV712 & battery cable today after scoping out a path for the communication wire yesterday.  Going to mount the display next to the small solar display above the R7 display.  I was able to pull the false bottoms of the overhead cabinets in the LR and can run the cable there.  Then behind the refrigerator and down through the trough used for the piping/drain from the 1/2 bath to the bedroom.  Then under the floor drawer cabinet.  I then measured and just decided to drill a hole in floor under the bedroom cabinet, it was directly above where I was going to mount the shut in the passenger side rear run bay.  Mounted a Jbox underneath sealing with a good exterior caulk.  Then used 1/2 flex conduit and ran that into the PSRRB.   Put in a pull cord so I'll easily be able to pull the communication cable.  Once I have everything it should be a pretty quick install now. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
On 7/18/2022 at 11:25 AM, thompson_skip said:

Thanks to all that replied with your suggestions. I have rebuilt my slide tray using a pair of VEVOR 500lb drawer slides. Amazon about $35.00. I think the rebuild should last the life of our great 2003 Dyansty we purchased new in 2003😁😁. Here is the link for the slides.  I used stainless nylon nuts and stainless bolts to attach the slides to the drawer.  
 

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B091T1CZD6/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

F88AD670-DF97-47A9-B9BB-7EB6BF1F7A63.jpeg

I was checking my electrolite level yesterday and the rear slide on my battery tray was tight and I noticed that it had not fully retracted correctly, leaving one of the ball bearing guides sticking out.  Tried different thing before I finally got it back in.  Still usable but how knows for how long.  So much for going through and redoing the tray and lubricating the sides. 

So it looks like I'll have to look at replacing my slides.  What length did you order?? 

From you picture it almost looks like the slides are installed backwards as to what mine are, by that I mean the widest portion is mounted on the tray.  Mine is just the opposite.  Did you mount yours the same as they came out???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, thompson_skip said:

I just checked my Amazon order and I ordered 16”. I installed them just like they came off with the small side mounted to the tray. I couldn’t use the locking lever so I put bolts with wing nuts on each corner to lock tray in place. Good  luck with your repair. 

OK, thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

About 4 years ago someone posted, I believe it was Van, about 500 pound ball bearing replacement slides for the battery trays.

They are Knapp & Vogt KV8900.  Looking just now for them, I see they come in different extension lengths and are priced accordingly. And there is a big difference in price for same length. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, Happycarz said:

About 4 years ago someone posted, I believe it was Van, about 500 pound ball bearing replacement slides for the battery trays.

They are Knapp & Vogt KV8900.  Looking just now for them, I see they come in different extension lengths and are priced accordingly. And there is a big difference in price for same length. 

I used Knapp & Vogt drawer slides when I built my kitchen cabinets, they make a good product.  Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, I've ordered a set of the KV8500 drawer slides. 

I removed the battery and tray today.  Was able to drill the rivets out on the battery tray but the ones that attached to the side were not accessible to do the clearances  so I took a small air grinder and ground the rivet portion off and then pried the slide off and then drilled out the rest that was stuck in the angle. 

I can use rivets to attach the  tray to the drawer slide but I'll have to get creative on the stationary portion since the inner slide piece covers 2 of the 4 holes. 

Not sure if I should use small bolts with lock nuts or not, will look at my options when I get that far.  I'm going to order some 3/16" SS rivets ~1/4"  long, will have to check clearances to make sure drawer slide will close and miss the back side of the rivet.

Anybody have any better ideas?????

Edited by jacwjames
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yesterday I took a good look at the battery tray which I had repainted early Sept.

When I repainted the tray ~2 months ago I had taken quite a bit of time removing the old paint/rust using a wire brush on a smaller grinder to completely clean to bare metal.  Used some Navy Jelly to remove all rust and then used a spray rust inhibitor before painting with Rustoleum.  I thought would last until I needed another battery change.  NOPE.  I had even installed the Water Miser Caps to reduce gassing.

I was amazed at how much the paint peeled and rust had already started.  No doubt if I would not redo it I'd have major problems down the road. 

So I went back to work and completely cleaned the tray again using a wire brush on a small grinder.  Since I am waiting on my HD drawer slides I decided to go ahead an bit the bullet so I ordered some of the POR15 and will repaint the slide before installing it back in my compartment.  

I guess the old adage "do it right the first time" holds true in this type of situation. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

53 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Yesterday I took a good look at the battery tray which I had repainted early Sept.

When I repainted the tray ~2 months ago I had taken quite a bit of time removing the old paint/rust using a wire brush on a smaller grinder to completely clean to bare metal.  Used some Navy Jelly to remove all rust and then used a spray rust inhibitor before painting with Rustoleum.  I thought would last until I needed another battery change.  NOPE.  I had even installed the Water Miser Caps to reduce gassing.

I was amazed at how much the paint peeled and rust had already started.  No doubt if I would not redo it I'd have major problems down the road. 

So I went back to work and completely cleaned the tray again using a wire brush on a small grinder.  Since I am waiting on my HD drawer slides I decided to go ahead an bit the bullet so I ordered some of the POR15 and will repaint the slide before installing it back in my compartment.  

I guess the old adage "do it right the first time" holds true in this type of situation. 

Bummer.  From my work career in paint surface prep and also a lot of hands on…..as well as doing my own trays….my “hindsight” is that the Naval Jelly got rid of the corrosion, but it might have been necessary to do an extra step.  I wire brushed and then used the HD Rustoleum primer, maybe one that had a Phosphate additive.  Then I sprayed on the Rustoleum Berliner.  No issues in over 5 years.

If you clean again, I would not use naval jelly. You have probably got rid of most of the ugly corrosion. I would use a good phosphate conversion primer or simply a rust inhibiting primer.

i did talk to POR.  That is your best shot.  I would call their tech support.  Go over the application and the issues I had and see what they tell you about surface prep.  Make sure they know the time frame and the reoccurrence and the naval jelly use.

Keep us updated on what they say. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fwiw, I tried POR a number of years ago on an oil pan that was starting to rust, it did look nice when the job was completed but it didn’t stop the corrosion. I used the there process as recommended. If I was to do the battery trays on my coach, sand blasting would definitely be on my list of preventive measures.

Just my experience 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

POR is selling their cleaner and Metal Prep to convert rust, the only thing I don't like is that you have to wash it off afterwards and wait for it to completely dry and I don't like waiting, but it works. POR cures with moisture so it has to be bone dry. I recovered a car subframe with it 20 years ago, it lost its shine but still holding well. It isn't UV protected but good where the sun does not shine. If you get it on your fingers, it will stay for a week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Time will tell I guess, I know what the results when I did it the first time,.   I don't have access to a sand blaster, wish I did.

They do think highly of the POR15, About the best price i could find was by 6 each of the 4 oz cans on Ebay for ~$55 including tax no shipping.  A 32oz can on Amaxon was ~$55 but if if goes bad it is wasted.  I figure the individual cans will have a longer shelf life. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Time will tell I guess, I know what the results when I did it the first time,.   I don't have access to a sand blaster, wish I did.

They do think highly of the POR15, About the best price i could find was by 6 each of the 4 oz cans on Ebay for ~$55 including tax no shipping.  A 32oz can on Amaxon was ~$55 but if if goes bad it is wasted.  I figure the individual cans will have a longer shelf life. 

 

One little can goes a long way, you'll see. Don't close the can without some plastic or foil under the lid or you'll never open it again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/10/2022 at 12:42 PM, Ivan K said:

One little can goes a long way, you'll see. Don't close the can without some plastic or foil under the lid or you'll never open it again.

You were correct on this, I used about 1/3 of a can. 

Big question, should I do 2 coats. 

 

Still waiting on my drawer slides.  They were suppose to be here Saturday, I was tracking the USPS number and they made it to the large distribution location near me and supposedly transferred to the local post office last Thursday but never made it.   Called there yesterday and the put out an alert for it but haven't heard back.  This is the 2nd time in a month a USPS package went missing in action, maybe someone needed a set of HD drawer slides!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you feel that you need a second coat, you only have a VERY short period of time to do that. After that, it will not stick to the first coat and will peel off. They used to have, and probably still do, a primer that allows recoating with their UV protected paint, it's been a while, I think it was called a 'hard nose'?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ospho is what I have used for many rusted projects with good results so far. Including my battery tray.  

Screenshot_20221115_211539_Chrome.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Steven P said:

Ospho is what I have used for many rusted projects with good results so far. Including my battery tray.  

Screenshot_20221115_211539_Chrome.jpg

Thanks Steven,  I'll have to remember this.  I had already bought a surface prep from Lowes that I used prior to POR15. 

Looks like USPS found my HD drawer slides, they were shipped from the regional distribution center yesterday to my local post office and tracking shows they are out for delivery today.   So I'll try putting the tray back in today. 

I may go ahead and give it a light sanding an apply a coat of Rustoleum after I get the tray in. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...