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3D Printing


Steve P
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11 hours ago, granvillebarker said:

That's awesome.   Do you take you 3d printer in the RV, I wanted to bring it. on my current trip, but couldn't find a good spot for it.

--

Granville Barker

 

Haven’t crossed that bridge… yet. 

7 hours ago, Steve P said:

So what do you guys recommend for a 3D printer?   I searched and there are no threads on this topic that i could find...

I’m brand new to 3D printing, so really don’t have enough experience with anything other than my current setup. I purchased a slightly used Creality Ender 3 v2 from a fellow who had upgraded everything on it, then decided to throw in the towel and gave up on 3D printing. 

It was a pretty steep learning curve for the first couple of weeks, but fortunately I had @pwhittle to mentor me. 

I’m sure @pwhittle and @granvillebarker might be able to make some recommendations. 

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I recommend that you do extensive research outside this forum as there are many 3D printers available at many price points with different capabilities.

I bought a 3D printer to print the cases for the Magnum/Sealand/Dometic Opus replacement controller.

I chose the Creality Ender 3 as it was cheap and there was a lot of community support for it. The Ender 3 is known as a 3D printer that you need to spend time on to be able to print well. I did spend a lot of time getting to the point where I can print whatever I want, and it was a very steep learning curve.

Edited by pwhittle
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11 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

What's the current prices of similar printers.  I assume that with the technology improving the prices have come down.  

 

You can always buy them direct from Creality at https://creality3dofficial.com/

You can find a Creality Ender 3 v2 for about $279 delivered on Amazon. 

If you have a Microcenter nearby, they sometimes put them on sale as low as $199. Plus you can pick it up in person  

The other popular seller I’m familiar with, if quick delivery is not critical, is https://usa-m.banggood.com  They sell various brands of 3D printers and usually have very competitive prices. 

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1 minute ago, Ray Davis said:

Scotty, can you move your post from the other thread ( Outlet Upgrade ) over to this thread?  Having it in both places seems like a good idea to me.

Done.

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I’ve had several of them over the years, and the Crealty Ender 3D is my favorite and least expensive.   My flashforge is enclosed and sometimes prints better because the enclosure helps maintain the temperature.

The Ender 3 can print bigger prints and they have even bigger Enders’ if you need them.   I’ve also seen kits to make expand the ender 3 as well.

I recently installed a glass bed, but the magnetic/plastic plate was good for years.  I keep it on a piece of concrete board, they can catch fire.   I have printed 70+ hour prints that came out great.

Learning curve, isn’t really that bad, you can download stuff from the web and its pretty easy to print.

Designing your own things can be done with a variety if software with various learning curves.    I use OpenSCAD mostly, you write code to create objects with it.

TinkerCAD and Fusion 360 are popular design programs.    There are good tutorials on youtube for fusion, i watched some by Paul McWorter that were excellent a few years ago.

 

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I print pretty much everything in ABS now.

Longest print I have done is 35 hrs. It was for a stubby nozzle for an Milwaukee M18 blower. Great for blowing off the motorhome or a car after washing it.

BD76AA01-AADD-4781-98A6-FCD4F1EF7F6F.thumb.jpeg.010d15f7e02d8a3af507bdd046dfdc40.jpeg9D66B3E9-81CF-4E3F-9534-D019F545DE5F.thumb.jpeg.2265425d4fd0f88925d651bde6da30a3.jpeg665CBDD4-C35D-42CB-A2D7-37FD110DBAE1.thumb.jpeg.353b59fd730234011c4e87a8d3fef63f.jpeg

 

The Opus controller boards take about 8 hours each. Ignore the hairspray. Haven’t used that since I started using PEI print beds.

F56B4108-BE20-447B-AD52-CC5E791AD887.thumb.jpeg.0f23996565c9d961bb5232b65340d842.jpeg

I have started printing in two colors, starting with the Aladdin joystick faceplate.

F53CEA8E-F8A9-4953-9C6E-1D2BADA42708.thumb.jpeg.c63951488ee65e79a626b7c662dbc5d3.jpeg

I also printed a couple of cup holders to hold my 20 oz Yeti next to the dash when driving.

I don’t have a picture of it right now.

 

Edited by pwhittle
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  • 1 month later...

I've printed a few tid bits to aid with the restoration of some failing parts across the coach. The latest is a replacement entry switch bezel.

20220307_064033.jpg

Edited by Schreyert
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Another member asked if I could print the support for the step cover and sent me a picture of his failed piece.

Our 2005 Signature had the same part, and it was broken the same way as the other member’s, so I modeled the replacement, but printed it in 100% infill ABS to improve the design and make it more durable.

46CFDF3E-FB18-431B-87DC-C4C7480D2FDA.thumb.jpeg.8341c75450c300c05124e5f0a34ecc63.jpeg
52D81873-36DE-4663-A829-E1CD34430CAE.thumb.jpeg.6a2e7778b86ba2f60ea2e98422e76496.jpeg

Non-Monaco, but a couple of parts I printed for friends.

This is for the tail light sequencer for a 60’s Shelby Mustang a friend is restoring. It holds the circuit board and hangs in the trunk.

It is dimensionally the same, but the design with the small clips to hold the two halves together was not durable in the original design, and is not in my replacement.

I had to print each half in two pieces and glue them together due to overhangs.

F4F961FD-E675-4BEC-982D-3725E7C15452.thumb.jpeg.4532011c679a4e5f25974aef0d10d0b3.jpegDAFB83BE-41D7-4301-A551-196A82E60CD9.thumb.jpeg.e95c6119e78ecc650357e8010bcaa11b.jpeg47898460-F27F-4058-B476-123266BD687D.thumb.jpeg.ca0922d0667aac9c57f34bac18e6a4c9.jpeg
 

A friend has a Palatov D2 sports car and runs PIAA LED headlights, and wanted a nacelle to clean up the rear of the flat backed lights.

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I also was able to print in two colors for the replacement Aladdin joystick faceplates.

0C6F158F-EB10-4559-9438-9BE6D730DBC0.thumb.jpeg.b7884726f3bdd41fb4828152b4927fc0.jpeg

Paul

Edited by pwhittle
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I created a new section in the Downloads section to upload STL files of your 3D creations for Monaco coaches (or any STL file, really)   that you would like to share with other Monacoers members.

Once we get home and can access my PC I’ll upload some of my files.

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13 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

I created a new section in the Downloads section to upload STL files of your 3D creations for Monaco coaches (or any STL file, really)   that you would like to share with other Monacoers members.

Once we get home and can access my PC I’ll upload some of my files.

Great idea Scotty,

I uploaded the step cover cushion block to the new section.

All,

If you want something that is uploaded to that section, you can download the .stl file and print it yourself, or submit it to a commercial site for printing.

If you decide to ask a friend to print it, remember that they have expenses in setting up their systems to be able to print, and then the cost of consumables to include the filament to print it, the print surfaces, and the time to run and monitor the print.

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On 2/2/2022 at 7:16 AM, pwhittle said:

I recommend that you do extensive research outside this forum as there are many 3D printers available at many price points with different capabilities.

I bought a 3D printer to print the cases for the Magnum/Sealand/Dometic Opus replacement controller.

I chose the Creality Ender 3 as it was cheap and there was a lot of community support for it. The Ender 3 is known as a 3D printer that you need to spend time on to be able to print well. I did spend a lot of time getting to the point where I can print whatever I want, and it was a very steep learning curve.

Next question. We don’t need to get too in depth right now but how do you get a scan of the part to be duplicated? In another thread it was recommended to check a site called thingiverse.com (I may not remember that correctly). 
Thanks,      
Ed       
’05 HR Ambassador 

Edited by saflyer
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Have owned 2 printer. A Creality CR10S V2 Pro.  Requires a lot of maintenance and Tech Support is non-existent from Crealtiy. Other draw back it has an 8 bit motherboard that has a number of limitations. Upgraded hot bed to the coasted glass from Creality. Also have an AnyCubic Vyper. Very low maintenance, comes with PEI metal flex hot bed for ease of model removal. Tech Support is also poor, but forum seems pretty good. Also had for about 2 weeks a MatterHacker Ulta Xl the MatterControl software drove me nuts. Have used TechBear, Amazon Basic and Hatchbox filament all PLA 1.75mm. Just started using Hatchbox PETG Filament. I followed nozzle and hot bed temps on spool label and general have had good results with all filament. Pricing of Creality about $600.00, AnyCubic $350.00 and Matter Hacker was $1,700.

Have a reservation for Prusa XL probably delivering in 4th quarter this year. 1 Color version is $2000, but features are incredible. Can be upgrade to 5 colors for another $1,500. Wish I'd acquired Prusa i3 to start with. 

Use Shapr3d design software from Hungary. Runs on iPad and MacBooks and I believe soon to be on Windows. $240 per year subscription. There is a free version with reduced features and limited to 2 designs active. Tech Support is great. Very good tutorials on their website also on YouTube. YouTube is go to for me for help. Many good presenters on many brands of printers.

Use Cura Slicer now on 4.13.1 version. It is free, very quick and well supported on YouTube. Will use Prusa Slicer when get the XL

The item I have designed and printed for coach is an insert for drink holders that adapts the holders to support today's coffee mugs and water bottles. Also found on Thingiverse a gear for curtain chain control.  Will upload to Scotty's STL site later this week.

 

Pat C
2000 Monaco Diplomat
2014 Honda CRV

 

 

IMG_4302 2.png

IMG_4301.png

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I have printed some things off Thingiverse, to include the stubby M18 blower nozzle above.

Most things I model with a pair of digital calipers in OpenSCAD, a free 3D design software. Then I use Cura, another free application, to convert the model into the commands for the 3D printer taking into account the printer capabilities, the material being used, and about 100 other options.

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I recently printed some face plates to cover where an Aladdin joystick had been removed.

4B335F05-3156-4AC1-B426-3BA300BF0BAB.thumb.jpeg.6ae5dc6c708de98fb8e48b193319ff4a.jpeg
It is the same size despite the appearance in the picture.

Paul

Edited by pwhittle
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Hi Paul,

What design and slicer software are you using to get 2 colors? Parts look very professional.

Pat

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Posted (edited)

I use OpenSCAD for the design.

I create the white as one model that is one layer high. The second model is the rest of the design with a hole to match the white. You need to make sure the two prints are aligned.

Each print is independently sliced in Cura to generate separate gcode files.

Then I print the white model and when the print finishes, I remove the initial nozzle cleaning lines and brim, change the filament from white to black, and print the second model. The white is only one layer high, so the nozzle can move over it where necessary.

Printing is on a single filament Ender 3.

Paul

Edited by pwhittle
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