Ivan K Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 (edited) Before removing it, I would check for 12V on the top post of the big relay. It should be hot at all times. If not there, the compressor may not even be your problem at all. My fuse is in-line on a wire to this post, just hanging about a foot from it, and that wire goes directly to the controller. Edit: the always hot wire does not go to controller but to an independent 12v source... Edited March 22, 2022 by Ivan K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J A Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 This is a C & P of information i recieved from, and was posted on this site by Richard Smith. Excellent job, and you will find it very informative. It is in the "parts section" of this site as well. HWH Air Leveling System There are two photos of the old HWH Air Compressor which sits up high on a platform to the rear of the front axle just in front of the first bay containing the diesel and LPG tanks. The post below is a copy of the follow-up post I had made after completing the project including photos of the new compressor and rebuilt platform. Just to close out this thread with a follow-up, some photos and description of what I did to relocate the failed air compressor for the HWH Air Leveling System. After the complete unit was removed from under the coach where it was housed in a cage just to the rear of the front axle (VERY poor location - what were they thinking????) I removed the defective air compressor, relay and pressure switch. I then verified that the air/moisture spitter valve still worked by hooking it to a 12 VDC battery. I removed the filter above the valve and that did not need any further maintenance so I replaced it without any maintenance. I then cleaned up the base and proceeded to install the three new components. I had previously purchased a new air compressor, Viar Model 450C, an Emerson Relay Model 120-105711 and a Viair Pressure Switch Model 90100 which is On @ 90 psi / Off @ 120 psi. All three were obtained from Amazon. I also purchased 10 feet of 3/8 air line, one air-line union-coupling, some wire and split loom from the local NAPA store. I extended the two wires using crimp connectors and heat shrink. I installed the air-line coupling onto the line coming from the rear of the coach that goes to the rear 6 pack valves and also hooked it to one end of the new air-line. I then removed the old short air-line coming from the front 6-pack valves and attached the other end of the new air-line to the 6-pack valve. I used spilt-loom to cover all of the wires and air-lines for protection. All of those extensions were routed through a chassis frame which went directly into the adjacent bay where the diesel fuel and LPG tanks were located and where the new location will be for the air compressor. I had previously constructed a wooden shelf over the passenger side of the LPG tank which will hold the air compressor unit. The Viar Air Compressor came with rubber isolators but I added the springs that were used on the old Thomas Air Compressor to the mounting also. I also used some new springs between the base of the unit and the shelf to help further isolate and help dampen any vibrations coming from the compressor. I positioned the complete unit so it was easily accessible for routine maintenance if needed. Due to my installation of the compressor unit onto the wooden shelf I installed a ground wire from the metal base of the unit to the chassis to form the ground needed to run the system. I have attached photos of the rebuilt base unit installed in its final resting place. I am VERY pleased with the outcome and appreciate all of the help from my Workamper neighbor who was hired to do all of the work under the coach while I assisted him from outside with tools and materials. I am now able to re-level the coach without having to start up the engine to air up the system plus I no longer will have to worry about the air compressor failing once again from exposure to the elements, road debris and whatever it was exposed to in its previous location. Reply Reply All Forward Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS lakeshore Posted March 13, 2022 Share Posted March 13, 2022 When I remove my air leveling compressor do I need to drain both air tanks first or will the air compressor inline check valve keep the pressure up? I have the HWH air leveling system. But no airline drawings. I have hydraulic jacks also, so I willl be using them along with my jack stands to support the chassis while I am under the coach. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted March 13, 2022 Share Posted March 13, 2022 I'd do it with leaked down empty tanks. My compressor connects to wet tank, not the best configuration but it is what it is. There is a check valve on mine but I don't trust any of it to be always functioning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS lakeshore Posted March 22, 2022 Share Posted March 22, 2022 On 3/13/2022 at 1:00 PM, RS lakeshore said: When I remove my air leveling compressor do I need to drain both air tanks first or will the air compressor inline check valve keep the pressure up? I have the HWH air leveling system. But no airline drawings. I have hydraulic jacks also, so I willl be using them along with my jack stands to support the chassis while I am under the coach. thanks I removed my Thomas air compressor and to inspect an see if it would run. It does run when I bench tested it. Problem now is there is no 12 volt coming to the pump. The control board is in the generator compartment in a box with a clear plastic cover. There is a yellow led on and the manual says check 15 amp fuse and the fuse is good. Would the next step be to try new relay and if that doesn't work what would be my next move? Thanks Richard Silcox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granvillebarker Posted March 22, 2022 Share Posted March 22, 2022 (edited) On 3/13/2022 at 12:00 PM, RS lakeshore said: When I remove my air leveling compressor do I need to drain both air tanks first or will the air compressor inline check valve keep the pressure up? I have the HWH air leveling system. But no airline drawings. I have hydraulic jacks also, so I willl be using them along with my jack stands to support the chassis while I am under the coach. thanks Check the downloads on here there are air line diagrams in there. When i have removed my aux compressor, i just pulled the air line from it, there must have been a check valve somewhere else down the lin. Also i don't think that 12v line is powered unless your in leveling mode actively airing up an air-bag with the pressure low enough for it to be needed. Edited March 22, 2022 by granvillebarker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted March 22, 2022 Share Posted March 22, 2022 Definitely check your model's manual. In my case, there are 2 wires to the compressor unit. One is always hot and goes to top post of the relay. It does NOT come from the controller but from its own 12v source (it seems to share power with positive post of hydraulic pump in my case). The other wire, with a connector by the pump unit, is the trigger source between the controller and pressure switch and only active when needed for leveling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granvillebarker Posted March 22, 2022 Share Posted March 22, 2022 (edited) Richard, Post some pictures of your setup, mine is wired like Ivan's. I'm not sure if the HWH relays are socketed, if so, you could try swapping it with one of the others. My HWH is in one of the storage bays. One trick for testing that HWH by yourself is set your phone in video record mode and set it under the box, then go press all the button ( in a known order ), then go play the movie slow and watch the LED's to see if what you expected happened. When you press a lift button, you should see the relay for the air pump activate too. I think you would see the LED regardless of if the relay is good or bad, it only shows that the HWH activated the relay, not that the contacts in the relay aren't shot. If you see it activating and still no power, see if you can swap the relay with another one that is known to be good. -- Granville Barker 05 Dynasty Edited March 22, 2022 by granvillebarker changed terminals to contacts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS lakeshore Posted March 24, 2022 Share Posted March 24, 2022 I put in a new relay yesterday and I now have 12 volts on the red wire where the air compressor connects. Now to reinstall the air compressor. I also am installing a enclosure to protect the air compressor. Thanks for all your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted March 25, 2022 Share Posted March 25, 2022 Unfortunately, I discovered that the HWH Compressor on my Dynasty also did not work while bringing it home earlier this month. I haven't done any troubleshooting as yet other than dumping all of the air then having my wife press the "raise" button while I was at the rear drive wheel listing for the compressor to come on which it did not. If indeed it has failed, I will be looking to see where it can be relocated to an inside area much like I did on my Windsor. This is just another example of Monaco "engineers" using their "book-smart" education to design a system that is doomed from the start and will fail. It's not IF it fails, trust me it WILL fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS lakeshore Posted March 25, 2022 Share Posted March 25, 2022 I have hit another snag with my air compressor project. I had to remove the clear plexiglass cover from the HWH control box that was held in place with a rubber gasket. I an my friend have tried our darntes to get it back on with no luck. Has anyone had to do this before,sure could use some pointers. Of course its in a difficult spot in the generator compartment. Thanks Richard Silcox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Mike Posted April 2, 2022 Author Share Posted April 2, 2022 I am going to tackle this compressor this week. Does anyone know the correct pressure switch? I want to replace it when I take it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted April 2, 2022 Share Posted April 2, 2022 (edited) When I did the very same project on my Windsor, I replaced the pressure switch and the relay along with a new motor. Here are the parts that I had used - Viar Model 450C, an Emerson Relay Model 120-105711 and a Viar Pressure Switch Model 90100 which is On @ 90 psi / Off @ 120 psi. All three were obtained from Amazon. Take photos as I will have to do the very same project. However, I will relocate the entire motor package to an inside location out of the weather and away from any mud and debris. Edited April 2, 2022 by Dr4Film Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granvillebarker Posted April 3, 2022 Share Posted April 3, 2022 If you ever need to run wires to the back there is a conduit on the passenger side near the surge tank, see pic... I think you can see the other end looking under the bed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Mike Posted April 3, 2022 Author Share Posted April 3, 2022 I am replacing with a Thomas compressor so I guess the pressure switch is the same. I was looking for the psi range and I see Richard used 90-120 range. Is the psi range the same for the Dynasty as it was for his Windsor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted April 3, 2022 Share Posted April 3, 2022 (edited) My Navigator starts to raise once I get 70 psi so any pump that makes 100 psi is enough for the air leveling system. The $300+ Viair 450 seems to be the replacement many use BUT I can’t find any difference (other than the name) in this $122 one which is rated 200 psi and 100 psi continuous at 23 amps…same as a 450. I actually bought the 2nd one ($110) as I like the dual cylinders which should reduce the vibration and hopefully the noise. Edited April 3, 2022 by Ivylog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Mike Posted April 12, 2022 Author Share Posted April 12, 2022 I changed out my Thomas compressor yesterday and it is now working as it should. I ended up covering the exposed end with some breathable foam to keep the dirt out of the area with the brushes. I took the back cover off of the old unit and the brushes were stuck and very dirty so I cleaned the entire unit and fixed the brushes so they move freely and put it back together. When I hooked it directly to 12 volt source it didn’t work so I am bummed because I wanted to have a spare. It turns freely so is there anything else to check or just toss it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granvillebarker Posted April 12, 2022 Share Posted April 12, 2022 (edited) 18 minutes ago, Georgia Mike said: I changed out my Thomas compressor yesterday and it is now working as it should. I ended up covering the exposed end with some breathable foam to keep the dirt out of the area with the brushes. I took the back cover off of the old unit and the brushes were stuck and very dirty so I cleaned the entire unit and fixed the brushes so they move freely and put it back together. When I hooked it directly to 12 volt source it didn’t work so I am bummed because I wanted to have a spare. It turns freely so is there anything else to check or just toss it? On the board with the brushed theres a thermal switch with contacts. You can check it with an ohm meter to see if there is connectivity. If not, you can gently open it and sand its contacts a little, just don't bend it. ( i may be mixed up, that may have been on my macerator. ) Edited April 12, 2022 by granvillebarker Added note at end Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Mike Posted April 12, 2022 Author Share Posted April 12, 2022 I did see that on one side of the brushes wasn't sure what it was so i will check that, Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Mike Posted April 12, 2022 Author Share Posted April 12, 2022 I checked the thermal switch and there is no continuity. I could see before i tried to sand it that there is a small razor thin gap between the contacts. I ran thin sand paper between but i guess my next step would be try and bend the contact to make contact. When i pinch it together it has continuity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granvillebarker Posted April 12, 2022 Share Posted April 12, 2022 48 minutes ago, Georgia Mike said: I checked the thermal switch and there is no continuity. I could see before i tried to sand it that there is a small razor thin gap between the contacts. I ran thin sand paper between but i guess my next step would be try and bend the contact to make contact. When i pinch it together it has continuity. You can bend them a bit, I have a tool for bending those things from working on pinball machines in the past. The tool looks like the tool that used to come with a sardine can to open it, but the slit is open all the way to the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Mike Posted April 13, 2022 Author Share Posted April 13, 2022 I tried to bend the contacts but to no avail. I stuck a thin piece of metal between the contacts and the the motor ran fine.i have looked all over the internet for a thermal switch or some kind of motor rebuild kit but all I can find is kits for a new piston and gaskets. Anyone know of a source for parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jobert Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 In replacing the original Thomas motor last summer, not for the first time, the one I ordered off eBay ended up being a newer style. It had a sealed bearing in the end cap and also was completely enclosed. It was not vented in the brush end of the motor. that would be what I consider a vast improvement over the older style one. So it would appear that improvements and variations are out there. Just for your information. Hope this may help. Happy Trails Bert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdw12345 Posted April 14, 2022 Share Posted April 14, 2022 21 hours ago, Jobert said: In replacing the original Thomas motor last summer, not for the first time, the one I ordered off eBay ended up being a newer style. It had a sealed bearing in the end cap and also was completely enclosed. It was not vented in the brush end of the motor. that would be what I consider a vast improvement over the older style one. So it would appear that improvements and variations are out there. Just for your information. Hope this may help. Happy Trails Bert Do you have a link? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdw12345 Posted April 14, 2022 Share Posted April 14, 2022 (edited) 21 hours ago, Jobert said: Edited April 14, 2022 by Jdw12345 Double post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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