Heater control switch on dash board

[Fred L]

I have a 2004 Monoao Camelot PDQ. Purchased new. The switch that controls heat and a/c while driving needs replacing. It works only on high speed (at least it works). I  need to pull dash board cover off to get to it. The headlight switch also needs replacing. My toad Jeep has had same problem and was able to buy just the switch. I replaced the headlights last year finding that they were designed for a Chevy. Has anybody had to replace the unit? It includes the temperature setting knob, and selection knob for a/c, heat, defrost, etc.

[cbr046]

The fan switch is probably good.  It goes to a bank of resistors that slow the fan motor.  Each higher speed switches out a resistor resulting in lower resistance to the fan motor.  The resistor bank is air cooled and accessed near the blower motor from the front of the coach.  Now, getting it apart, and finding a new resistor bank, is the tricky part. 

The headlight switch is a whole other animal.  Just getting it out is a very difficult task - on Endeavor it's up high and the plastic dash is difficult to bend without cracking.  You might get lucky and find a burned or loose connector.

- bob

[Fred L]

Thanks Bob,

The headlight switch works the lights. Doesn't do real well on the dash lights. Which most times I didn't need. That's been several years. Playing and turning it sometimes get them to work. I had to pull the dash cover free once before and it was a chore. Just thought since I needed to pull the the cover off for the switch I'd do them both.

[cbr046]

You could install a dimmer (like for the interior lights above chairs, couch, dinette, headboard) and run that instead of through the headlight switch. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C4UBMY6/

It would mean locating and drilling a hole in the dash and having an unlabeled control . . . . I don't know if the overhead map light would still work off the headlight switch.  And if you replaced the dash lights with LED's all bets are off (they don't dim very well). 

- bob

[Jimmer]

Fan speed switch probably not bad since it is sending 12V to motor.  Resistance coils mounted up on outside firewall, dash air induction box, curb side, replacement was my problem solver last week for my 03 Windsor. Four wires plug into the top of the resistor . Unit held with 2 Phillips screws. My resistors were mounted inside a perforated metal cage to keep debris off coil. Resitor cluster is Ford, 4C2Z-19A706-BA. Bought Auto Zone RUC1006 did not fit cage and I had only 2 of 3 speeds. Googled and ordered Karpal 1KPFD 0107001. It fits cage and gives me 3 speeds along with the high speed.

My headlight switch dimmer not good. Rotated know multiple times to polish the resistance coils. All good now.

 

[Fred L]

Thanks for the info

Both replies have helped a lot.

 

[Jimmer]

Glad I could help expedite your repair. 

[dandick66]

For the headlight switch, get some electric contact cleaner spray and pull the switch to turn the lights on.  Wrap a rag around the switch and then spray the cleaner on the shaft as you rotate and push/pull it.  That might save you having to pull the switch.  

If you have to remove the switch, you’ll probably have to get behind it and push a little button on the side of the switch so you can remove the shaft.  Then you can access the retaining nut.

[Guest KenAVTech]

2003 Camelot 34pst

I did my HL switch about a month ago. Purchased from NAPA. Here’s what I did:

Kill the battery’s 

Removed side pedestal side cover.

Removed steering column cover.

Removed access cover under dash. I cut it mine at a thin spot above the brake pedal. And slid out the left half.

Now mind you Im 73” tall and 240, Finlander heritage!

I laid on the floor and reached up from the bottom L side and found the plunger button on the switch. Do not push it hard. Push up and down on it while trying to pull the switch knob shaft out of the switch, this can be a finicky process.

Now undo the hold down nut and work the switch and wires out the bottom of the dash carefully! At least on mine the wiring behind the dash is a complete mess from the factory!

The connector to the switch is another boutique of roses!

I ended up have to break the old switch keeper with pliers so as to not break the plastic connector housing! I figure it was the original 2003 switch. Heat formed over 19 yrs.

Plug in the new, Ops check good!

Now put it back together!

Mind you a beer or 2 helps me stay calm and focused!

Good luck!

[Fred L]

A Follow up: I ordered the Jimmer part. Waited to get it before pulling out the resistor. I was able to identify my part as a MotorCraft part D8BH-19A706-AB. The part ordered was close but hit the metal box when installed. Was about 1/8" too big. Found the MotorCraft part on ebay, $45 plus shipping. Called a Ford parts department. A old and discontinued part. A new number is "DHBZ19A706A". But not available???? Went back to NAPA and the guy using the new number was able to locate a resistor part number "BR348". It matches the original except it has a plastic female box for the plug. The original did not have the plastic box. The option was to buy a pigtail and replace the original plug cost $46, or buy just the resistor $28. I just bought the resistor and drilled out the 2 rivets, used black RTV gasket maker to plug the holes. Installed it also using the gasket maker on the edges. It works.

KenAVTech

Thanks for your listing HL switch replacement. A lot of work for the switch.  I think a few beers wouldn't be enough.

[Jimmer]

The plastic housing around the connectors accepted my original coach pigtail female connector.