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Air Hose from turbo to cooler replacement


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Doing preventive maintenance and looking at most everything prior to 4,000 mile trip in June. Side radiator ISC 8.3. I believe there is a hard pipe from the air side of the turbo down to the level of the charger air cooler. The hard pipe turns towards the side radiator on passenger side. Have not measured but the hose connecting appears to be 4" dia by around 12" long. As shown in the picture, the end of the hose has pulled away from a ridge on the hard pipe about 1/2". The clamp appears to be at an angle. If a replacement hose is available, I would like to replace and not rely on the deformed hose. Has any one replaced this and/or know of a source for replacement hose and clamps. the hose has several bellows with wire rings to compensate for engine movement.

HRS turbo to cooler air hose.JPG

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Just an FYI, the wire around the rubber boot is to control expansion of the boot from intake manifold pressure. 
 

One other thing to consider, if there’s room on the hard piping and the boot, two clamps are kind of a normal configuration, and it’s never a bad idea to have a spare clamp or two on hand. They are commonly referred to as a consistent torque clamp and generally can be purchased at most heavy duty truck parts place, Peterbilt, Kenworth, Frieghtliner, ect.

 I’ve spent about 3 million miles in a trk for myself, I’ve never blown a boot, I have blown clamps though!

Edited by Jdw12345
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measured both hoses today. the inlet to the CAC (hot side) is 14" long with 7 steel rings. The discharge from the CAC back to the intake manifold is 8" long with 3 rings. initial searches show the longest hose available  at 12", $141 at HPS. Priced qty 2 of 6" long hoses, 4 clamps with a 6" center aluminum tube at over $200. There is 10" between the two tubes that the hose slides on. concerned about getting the hoses on with the tube in the middle. the tube on the CAC is straight for about 4" past the normal end of the hose. I may be able to slide the hose far enough on to get every thing together. other option is a 6' and 8" hose with a 3" aluminum tube. 

The plan is to power wash the engine and these connections on Friday when it warms up a bit. having this clean will be critical to not getting dirt inside the tubes.  any sources I should be checking out?

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Wow, I have not seen a 4x14" hump hose. Custom made? Maybe you could just inspect your existing one and find it not being a problem? Mine would have still been good after nearly 200K. I only replaced it while checking cleanliness of the tubing because it was easily obtainable. And it was a Pita to get the new one on, being tight and stiff. But it is pretty...

Even if you have 4" of straight tubing to play with, it is going to be hard and you can't slide it very close to the nearest ring.

IMG_20220330_134622739.jpg

Edited by Ivan K
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Thanks Ivan for jogging my memory. The first ring is 2-5/8" from the end so that is all that could be slide on the tube. Using a straight section of tubing will probably not work. Looking at other options

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REV group parts responded with radiator hoses. Sent back a request for the turbo piping. The diagram and pictures for the radiator hoses and tubes was great info. Riff Raff Diesel only goes to 3-1/4" or so. Waiting on info from gates. 

Spent 3 hours and $15 at the truck bay of a local car wash. Got over 90% of the old grease/oil off the underside of the engine and cleaned the area of the hose that needs to be slid back onto the pipe. maybe a little more cleaning with simple green and a brush b4 I try to slide it back on. Drove 20 miles to get everything hot and dry. checked and already have a bit of oil out the slober tube. Will be fabricating a bottle to catch oil to help keep things clean. 

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I have come up with a new thought. Hose is 14" long with about 2" overlap each end. That would make it 10" between the two metal tubes.  If the additional 4"long  metal tube is moved against the CAC tube and a 4" length of straight hose is slide 2" over the CAC pipe and 2" of the new pipe. Then I would have 6" between the new metal tube and the turbo pipe. I can buy a 10" hose. Maybe use a clamp over the interface between the CAC and new tube to align and give the straight hose extra support as well as clamps in the normal position. Trying to be creative in a solution that will work.

Wondering if there is a lubricant that is compatible with the silicone that will dissipate to keep from allowing the hose to slide after clamped.

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An other option, If I had to use a lubricant for the hose, I would go with what's used for mounting tires, just because I have it handy and know that it loses any lubricity once dry. It is a water based mix. Maybe a dish soap would do the same too. I know people use silicon lubricants with turbo cars and much smaller diameter but i would worry about it staying slippery for a long time. You will get 2 inches relatively easily but it will get progressively much harder to twist and push. I am imagining your plan and think it will work. I only had about 4" between the hard pipes and it was a bit of a fight to kink the hose and get the other end started. My new hose was a bit tight compared to the old stretched one.

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"Walmart generic personal lubricant, it is water soluble"

Also known as KY Jelly...😁 Check out at the self check, or just a big smile with the lady cashiers..."it really is for my toolbox".  All kidding asie it is the best lube for any hose, non-petroleum, will not damage any hose material. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Tried to realign the hose today. It's not going to move easily so going to leave it as is. My surprise was that there is a part number under the grime and clamp. Got a good picture of part number. Will search for part as a spare. I did straighten the clamp to the upset enlarged end on the metal tube. I do not think at 30 psi it will blow off.

HRS CAC hose part no 1.JPG

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Posted (edited)

I don't think your hose is 'deformed'... I think the tubes don't line up exactly and it was probably installed that way when new.

If the hose is solid I'd leave it alone until something requires removal of the hose and replace it then. Like others have said, installation will be a miserable ordeal if you can't pull the rigid tubes apart and make room for the hose to easily go in between.

There's no rule that says a piece of hose must extend all the way down the clamping surface and butt up against something. There's a bead on the end of the tube and the clamp needs to be past that. As long as you've got enough hose to go 1/2" past the clamp that's all that's needed. You've got plenty of hose for the hose clamp to do its thing.

Either way, you have my sympathy... I too suffer from a strong compulsion to fix things that are not broken. 😳

Cheers,

Walter

Edited by wamcneil
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  • 4 weeks later...

looking at hose further. The radiator and CAC have not moved, mounts are solid. I have not looked closely at the turbo but it does have a band clamp between the exhaust housing and the turbo housing. the down tube on the air compressor side does appear to be further away from the CAC than it needs to be. From someone that has removed and re-installed a turbo on the 2003 era 8.3 ISC, could the turbo housing have been rotated away from the CAC tube or is there other framework that locates the rotation of the turbo?

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