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1 hour ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

On my mileage I get 20 miles to a gallon.

I average an actual 25 MPG on many trips.  Sometimes a little more depending on if I'm in a hurry moving to the next campground, vs staying in one spot for a while.  Toad gets 44, coach 6 ... So average 25. 😉. A bit more when I drive the toad around locally more.

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Regardless of mileage, the posted 00 Sig pictures are correct. The factory installed inverter is Trace 3012. Two contractors at the left are for remote block heater and AC/WD selection. Those could be modified and in Ryan's case might have been, to move the 3rd AC away from WD. For me it does not matter, not yet.

IMG_20220506_202001889.jpg

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1 hour ago, amphi_sc said:

I average an actual 25 MPG on many trips.  Sometimes a little more depending on if I'm in a hurry moving to the next campground, vs staying in one spot for a while.  Toad gets 44, coach 6 ... So average 25. 😉. A bit more when I drive the toad around more.

That must be the “new math”. Yes the average of 6 and 44 is 25 BUT how many gallons each used in a summer has to be added to the equation. My average is  5K miles on car at 20mpg= 250 gallons. 5K miles at 7mpg = 715 for a total of 965 gallons to go 10K miles or 9.6 mpg.

Edited by Ivylog
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18 hours ago, Ivan K said:

So I went and looked at my breaker panel since we have the same coach and noticed that my double breaker has been moved up one position. Not just the wires but the whole breaker positions were switched between the two lower breakers in the past as the label with hand written arrows indicates. No function of the AC/WD switcher relay is chaged either, I know that for fact. The only reason I can see for that, is to move the 3rd AC to Line 2, the same line as AC #1. Why, not sure but maybe to run both rear and center units at night with load balanced on both lines which might be better for the generator. My generator was used a lot by the first owner. Good enough explanation to me...  maybe yours had similar reasoning because just moving the leads between breakers should have no effect on the AC/WD switching, the wire from the breaker goes to the switcher first and that's where the decision is made. The kitchen switch is only a 12v remote.

IMG_20220506_201912713.jpg

Soooo.. now when I tackle this do you think I just swap to a 20 amp breaker if the wire size accommodates? Or should I just swap the breakers like yours has.

I don't have any problems now but I just wonder if I should just add the 20 amp. Plan on using ac a lot this summer in AZ. Really would like to not fry the middle one out because of lack of power.  

Totally going to use that picture for reference when I get back and open the panel up.

Thanks

Edited by Romeo84
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16 minutes ago, Romeo84 said:

Soooo.. now when I tackle this do you think I just swap to a 20 amp breaker if the wire size accommodates? Or should I just swap the breakers like yours has.

I don't have any problems now but I just wonder if I should just add the 20 amp. Plan on using ac a lot this summer in AZ. Really would like to not fry the middle one out because of lack 

Which breaker is your WD on? It is crossed out but not reassigned in your pic. Is it really running at the same time as 3rd AC?

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I don't think I will know till I open it up. I hope they are both not on the same. I'm guessing.. he switched just the ac and block heater? Will know more tomorrow when I open it up. 

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23 hours ago, Gary Cole said:

Be careful to understand that a GFCI doesn't provide overcurrent, arc, or fault protection. A GFCI only senses an unbalance in current flow due to a path to ground.  The 15/20 A designation is the manufacturers non-continuous load rating. 

Gary

Just to clarify, you are  talking about a GFCI outlet not a GFCI breaker, right?    I would think a GFCI breaker would still have to trip for over current as well as a ground fault.

--

Granville Barker

 

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3 minutes ago, Romeo84 said:

I don't think I will know till I open it up. I hope they are both not on the same. I'm guessing.. he switched just the ac and block heater? Will know more tomorrow when I open it up. 

I doubt you can tell just from looking at the wires, they all look the same and there is no telling which one comes from where, they have no labels. You would have to actually run the AC and WD and flip breakers and the selector switch to know, now that things changed. I checked the block heater gauge and it is #12 so yours is likely good to be on either one of the breakers too.

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46 minutes ago, Romeo84 said:

Soooo.. now when I tackle this do you think I just swap to a 20 amp breaker if the wire size accommodates? Or should I just swap the breakers like yours has.

I don't have any problems now but I just wonder if I should just add the 20 amp. Plan on using ac a lot this summer in AZ. Really would like to not fry the middle one out because of lack of power.  

Totally going to use that picture for reference when I get back and open the panel up.

Thanks

Rather than swap the breaker out, I would put the washer / dryer on the 15-amp breaker #7, and move the A/C back to the 20-amp breaker #8A.  Splendid W/D only needs 15 amp breaker.     I really don't know why Monaco didn't do it this way from the factory.   It would be great to know if they had a reason.

I'm going to go swap mine so the A/C and washer and dryer can run at the same time.   Typically we need the air on when that dryer is heating up the bedroom.     If it's cold enough to have the block heater on, there's no way your going to have the A/C on and it's probably too cold for the heat pump too.   

--

Granville Barker

 

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Looking into this. I havent opened the box yet but there is no power to the outlet in the washer dryer area. Kitchen switch has power but the outlet in the washer area doesn't get power at all. I'm going to open up the box and look at it tomorrow. 

Still want to put the washer dryer on the 15 amp and ac block heat on the 20 amp. As mentioned earlier. 

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On 5/7/2022 at 4:00 PM, Ivan K said:

Regardless of mileage, the posted 00 Sig pictures are correct. The factory installed inverter is Trace 3012. Two contractors at the left are for remote block heater and AC/WD selection. Those could be modified and in Ryan's case might have been, to move the 3rd AC away from WD. For me it does not matter, not yet.

IMG_20220506_202001889.jpg

Finnaly opened mine up. Think I might just switch the ac back to the 20 amp and put the block heater back to the 15 amp. 

20220511_121655.jpg

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Good idea!

15a breaker isn't enough for an AC.

I find the amp draw on all of my HP's tend to creep up some during use. A HP that began with 11A when the compressor first kicked in, may be drawing 15A an hour later.

Edited by 96 EVO
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