Dr4Film Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 There are only five Cummins shops in Florida to choose from. cummins in florida - Search (bing.com) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest toastmn Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 Any medium duty repair shop worth anything can look at/ work a cummins. If they have the software to connect to the ECM, they can pull the ESN from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Hull Posted June 17, 2022 Share Posted June 17, 2022 On 6/14/2022 at 8:59 PM, tmw188 said: It’s probably going to be upside down from your view Just now, Bruce Hull said: Were is this tag at ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted June 17, 2022 Share Posted June 17, 2022 Jumping in late. In March, 2020, a friend with a 2008 Navigator called me. He was stranded in a CG in Orlando. The CUMMINS dealer or Cummins of Orland had sent out a mobile tech and diagnosed what he feared. His ECM was fried and NO backup at the last CUMMINS dealership was on file. I contacted Frank M who had , as expected, a copy of the ECM for his model. The CUMMINS tech told my friend that the base ECM for his Engine Serial number, would make it start and run. But it might not be drivable as the interfaces with the transmission, cruise, brakes, dash monitor and such could not be duplicated….without a long and drawn out experimentation. Therefore, if he could round up correct one, he would be good to go. Frank and I BOTH talked to the tech and answered his questions. BINGO….no issues and he has out several thousand miles on it. THE PURPOSE of the above. CUMMINS of Orlando is a trusted dealership. You need a service tech with the CUMMINS Insight software to diagnose and pull the codes out of the engine and then analyze them. That information will, IMO, easily allow a CUMMINS dealer to determine what ELSE might be going on. No offense to the experienced and informed folks here nor your past techs, but the myriad of sensors and monitoring of the engine and the complete history, which is embedded in your ECM is the most practical and most reliable. Repeated “fixes” may be “hope and despair”. It sounds like the obvious has been done. YES…a filter change was mandatory. YES, stirring up any “perceived or microscopic trash, even after fill up, could have contaminated filters….but the dilution and the settling out of the particulate should have been stable. REREAD your post. Some specifics and such… The engine number is on your build or the sheet. Monaco was meticulous in listing the information and SN of ALL components. Hey sometimes reversed Model and SN, but it is there. A Cummins dealer doesn’t need the engine number to work on it. When they plug into the ECM, which is the FIRST thing that any TECH should do, they have everything. Have both Fuel Filters been changed. The “dregs” of the tank, on startup, could have with the small amount of the fuel the tech put in, have contaminated them. As long as it ran, then driving it to fill up, then changing the filters AFTERWARDS would have been the recommendation. We have had countless members that had fuel issues, changed them on the side of the road and driven on. Your running out is not that different, only changing them AFTERWARDS would have been imperative. IF…and I understand your wife’s concerns, you want it checked out. Go to someone like CUMMINS of Orlando. Then let them have facts. I WOULD tell you. Under NO CIRCUMSTANCES, run your Genny. The Genny fuel filter is smaller. If you had a fuel problem or a shutdown, then it typically takes TWO Genny changes to clean it up….if you continue to run the Genny. If CUMMINS says that the tank sediment is not,the issue and recommends the filters,,,,,hold off on running the Genny. NOW….OUTSIDE CHANCE. If you never treated the tank for Algae or don’t use a Biocide or Algaecide like JF BioBor, you MIGHT….big IF. Be picking up some dead critters. Treating the tank with JF BioBor will fix that. HOWEVER, you need to but in two bottles of StarBright or StarTron Diesel fuel additive. It dissolved the dead algae or breaks them down and puts them into a solution in the fuel ….diluting or mixing sugar in water so they don’t clog or plug the filters. My ADVICE….FWIW… 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ray Davis Posted June 17, 2022 Share Posted June 17, 2022 (edited) On 6/14/2022 at 8:31 PM, tmw188 said: Look inside the engine compartment, you'll see the timing gear cover like in the picture below. It's on the top surface, might be under wire & might be dirty. It’s up in this location if I remember correctly. Edited June 17, 2022 by Ray Davis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted June 17, 2022 Share Posted June 17, 2022 (edited) Expand the post above or go to pg 1 of the thread Edited June 17, 2022 by tmw188 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike H Posted June 17, 2022 Share Posted June 17, 2022 On 6/14/2022 at 9:28 PM, tomevansfl said: I wanted to try the TDS card for the first time so I kind of postponed stopping until we got to a Luvs. Even when the engine stopped running the gauge still showed just under 1/4 tank. That’s the lowest I’ve let it get. Now I know not to trust it until I can get it calibrated. Just for INFO only; your TDS card is primarily for using at T/A or PETRO truck stops and now if you use it at any non-participating stations they will charge you a service fee. The Good Sam card will give you a better discount at Flying J, Pilot and Love's but I'm not sure about the new ONE9 stations I see taking over Pilot stations. If you want to use Love's then it would be best to get a Love's card that I think you get a flat $0.28 discount. Maybe someone else can chime in on what's going on with this ONE9 truck stop I see cropping up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted June 17, 2022 Share Posted June 17, 2022 Loves is a fixed .28 discount per gal with TSD Cards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomevansfl Posted June 21, 2022 Author Share Posted June 21, 2022 On 6/17/2022 at 8:41 AM, Tom Cherry said: … He was stranded in a CG in Orlando. The CUMMINS dealer or Cummins of Orland had sent out a mobile tech and diagnosed what he feared. … I haven’t been able to find an “Cummins of Orlando”. Do you know the phone number or precise name? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted June 21, 2022 Share Posted June 21, 2022 1 hour ago, tomevansfl said: I haven’t been able to find an “Cummins of Orlando”. Do you know the phone number or precise name? Google Map Location Link below. https://tinyurl.com/5n7sct5p 4820 North Orange Blossom TrailOrlando, FLORIDA 32810407 298-2080 They have a few RV spots with electric in the back if you need to stay longer than one day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted June 21, 2022 Share Posted June 21, 2022 8 minutes ago, Dr4Film said: Google Map Location Link below. https://tinyurl.com/5n7sct5p 4820 North Orange Blossom TrailOrlando, FLORIDA 32810407 298-2080 They have a few RV spots with electric in the back if you need to stay longer than one day. Address: 4820 N Orange Blossom Trail, Orlando, FL 32810 Hours: Open ⋅ Closes 5PM Phone: (407) 298-2080 Richard beat me to it. I called the guy that got stranded and this is who he used. NOTE TO ONE AND ALL. My buddy owns several Bobcat franchises in NC and SC and also was a high level John Deere exec before he left and purchased his first Bobcat store. He "keeps in touch" with the construction equipment scene. He said that Cummins BOUGHT or somehow acquired all of the previous distributors and or service center. I guess that Cummins Atlantic no longer exists. They have centralized (big Brother) the process. He is having his Navigator serviced...and RESERVICED...as he is headed to Alaska. Our local Kenly, NC shop now has a "Screening" service "lady". He actually knows her. She was based at the Kenly dealership. She now works from home and sets up appointments or does call screening for 8 LOCATIONS....and he had to go through her to talk to the Service Manager that he has always worked with. That is what he told me....and I believe he KNOWS.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomevansfl Posted July 4, 2022 Author Share Posted July 4, 2022 We store our RV in a storage facility. Recently had service at Lazy Days in Wildwood, FL. When I picked up the RV from Lazy Days I started the generator to run the roof A/C on the way back to the storage facility. The generator started and ran but there didn’t seem to be any electricity going to the A/C thermostat (nothing showed in the LCD panel). I was in a bit of a hurry so I drove back using only dash air & dash mounted fans. I thought maybe I just didn’t give it long enough for electricity to get through the system to power the A/C. I went to the storage lot to prep for an upcoming trip at the end of this week and needed to pull forward to access the bay doors. I turned both battery cutoffs back to on position. The inverter panel shows 96.5% charge on the house batteries. None of the lights come on but the microwave clock and the refrigerator are running. The power step came out when I opened the entry door. The generator started when I tried it. The chassis battery show 10 volts. I tried using the auxiliary start, but the engine wouldn’t turn over…starter clicking only. There still seems no power to the A/C panel and the fantastic vents won’t run. The lights aren’t coming on either. I checked the fuse on the generator and it was in the on position. I also checked all of the fuses and breakers in the bedroom and all were in on position. I can’t get to the power switch in the electrical bay to check it because there isn’t room to open the door because of the trailer in the next space. What am I missing? Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted July 4, 2022 Share Posted July 4, 2022 So it would appear that you have AC 120V power but not DC 12V power. Is your salesman/battery cutoff turned on, if not bypassed? I would guess that your AUX power solenoid is powered from a house source past the salesman and therefore not connecting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomevansfl Posted July 4, 2022 Author Share Posted July 4, 2022 It was so hot I just came home, but the salesman switch may have been activated by the repair people at Lazy Days but that wouldn’t let power get to the microwave, refrigerator and allow the generator to crank, at least I wouldn’t think it would? Would it keep the engine from starting even though I can hear the starter click? 28 minutes ago, Ivan K said: So it would appear that you have AC 120V power but not DC 12V power. Actually, I think it is the opposite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted July 4, 2022 Share Posted July 4, 2022 24 minutes ago, tomevansfl said: It was so hot I just came home, but the salesman switch may have been activated by the repair people at Lazy Days but that wouldn’t let power get to the microwave, refrigerator and allow the generator to crank, at least I wouldn’t think it would? Would it keep the engine from starting even though I can hear the starter click? Actually, I think it is the opposite. Well, fantastic vents and most lights run on 12V DC. Just like thermostat displays and boost relay. This is why I said what I said. Your microwave and presumed domestic fridge run of 120V, whether gen, shore or inverter. The starter solenoid clicking is because of low chassis voltage. The generator starting power does not go through salesman. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomevansfl Posted July 4, 2022 Author Share Posted July 4, 2022 I’m sorry. I didn’t understand on first read. I’m going back in the morning while it’s cooler and the salesman switch will be the first thing I’ll try. If that’s not it I may dig out my multimeter and check the chassis batteries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 4, 2022 Share Posted July 4, 2022 28 minutes ago, Ivan K said: Well, fantastic vents and most lights run on 12V DC. Just like thermostat displays and boost relay. This is why I said what I said. Your microwave and presumed domestic fridge run of 120V, whether gen, shore or inverter. The starter solenoid clicking is because of low chassis voltage. The generator starting power does not go through salesman. Agreeing with Ivan and also throwing out a little info. The Salesman Switch MAY be the culprit. It should be REMOVED or Jumpered or attach BOTH cables to one stud. The NAPA number is 781144. It is 7"...do NOT use a longer one... Battery Cable - Solenoid To Starter Part #: MPB 781144 The BEST way to get both banks to charge, assuming you have SHORE or GENNY. Use a jumper cable from the positive on the Chassis to the Coach. The boost switch CAN be, like on mine, powered by the Coach and if it is dead or LOW....then it will NOT engage the BIG BOY (or Trombetta or whatever). Get the Genny Running....let it run, with the jumper hooked up for say 15 minutes to get a good surface charge. THEN crank the engine. Remove the jumper....if the batteries are TOTALLY DEAD....use TWO. Move the MH out where you can get to things....then work on the idiotic Salesmans Switch. The Genny will pass THROUGH the AC voltage through the Inverter. That is why, assuming the Genny was running, you see AC. The rest is DC. One Little TIDBIT....IF your disconnect switches are getting worn....and they regularly FAIL, then the House set might not have had power applied. You can cycle them a time or two....but you need a VOM and an understanding as to how to test them. LOTS OF TIME.....it is something as simple as the nuts on the back getting loose. Hopefully you can see the back and the cables. PULL the POSITIVE Cables.....off BOTH batteries..because if your wrench or socket slips...instant arc welder..... ALSO cover the Solar if you have it. THEN, check the nuts....check any NUT with a large cable that you can find in or around where the Battery Busses and the Switches are located.,...LOOSE CABLES will confuse....and cause strange issues. You did not say HOW your charging systems work...BUT, if you want the easy fix....then check out the Blue Seas ML-ACR. That is a neat switch that will give you BiDirectional charging and you are trouble free. Van Williams has written about this and many folks are going to it. rated at 500 Amps. it is actually a better BOOST switch... Good Luck...let us know... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomevansfl Posted July 5, 2022 Author Share Posted July 5, 2022 Tom Cherry or anyone, I’m not good with electrical but am out at my RV now. The inverter panel shows 94% but there isn’t enough power from chassis batteries to turn engine over. The ignition causes the starter to click on the engine. The dash volt meter shows <10 volts. The generator started but it was sluggish at start but is running smoothly now. Salesman switch appears to have been off. I have flipped it in both directions and the residential refrigerator & microwave clock came on after a few seconds. Generator went through cycles that seem to be load related (?) even though I haven’t turned anything else on. Generator is now running steady. Still no power getting to the A/C control panel. Xantrex now shows 90% charge & absorption charging. Bought two cables you recommended but not 100% sure I follow your instructions on how to jump. Thought the aux start would connect the house batteries to the chassis batteries. Letting generator run for now. What should I try next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 29 minutes ago, tomevansfl said: Tom Cherry or anyone, I’m not good with electrical but am out at my RV now. The inverter panel shows 94% but there isn’t enough power from chassis batteries to turn engine over. The ignition causes the starter to click on the engine. The dash volt meter shows <10 volts. The generator started but it was sluggish at start but is running smoothly now. Salesman switch appears to have been off. I have flipped it in both directions and the residential refrigerator & microwave clock came on after a few seconds. Generator went through cycles that seem to be load related (?) even though I haven’t turned anything else on. Generator is now running steady. Still no power getting to the A/C control panel. Xantrex now shows 90% charge & absorption charging. Bought two cables you recommended but not 100% sure I follow your instructions on how to jump. Thought the aux start would connect the house batteries to the chassis batteries. Letting generator run for now. What should I try next? OK...for clarity... Your Genny is running and charging...according to the Xantrex meter. That means the House Batteries are being charged. I don't understand what the A/C Control Panel is....so that is a dilemma. BUT. Put on a Positive to Positive JUMPER CABLE - The Alligator Clip style that you would use to "Jump off a car", between the TWO Banks. That will start to charge the Chassis. You need to do that for say 15 minutes or so. THEN try to start the Engine. The Jumper actually acts like the battery boost....but is a temporary or SHADE TREE solution. Once you get the engine running, then let it run, with the Jumper Cable still in place for another few minutes. Look at your Engine gages or wherever you see the Charging Voltage on the Engine. THEN pull the Jumper Cable OFF - BOTH ENDS. The alternator should be charging the Chassis and the Genny is still charging the House. The NAPA cable was for JUMPERING the Salesman Switch. NOW, I can NOT tell you which one that is as Monaco used different styles. My point was that IF the Salesman's Switch had been bumped....or if, HIGHLY LIKELY DUE TO AGE, your Salesman Switch Solenoid was bad or going bad...then Removing it or putting both cables on one post or jumpering it was the long range solution....and prevents you from getting stranded. Past that.....see how things look. Sounds like your system really got "DRAINED". You need to find out HOW your Chassis Batteries are SUPPOSED to stay charged. Lambert or whatever.... Some of the posters with more experience on the early 2000's like Larry Laursen will need to jump in here. All I have done is try to get you running again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomevansfl Posted July 5, 2022 Author Share Posted July 5, 2022 (edited) Thanks. I finally got my salesman switch turned on, or maybe it’s off, anyway I have power going to the A/C (my use/misused term for house air conditioning) and I am able to use it. However, after letting generator run for an hour or more with the switch off with still no power going to the air conditioning I was down to 74%. After letting it run with the salesman switch allowing power to the house air conditioning I am up to 100% charge on house batteries. But still can’t start engine with aux start button pressed. I think it is trying to turn over; it seems to turn the engine very slightly, but just not enough on the chassis batteries to spin the engine enough to start yet. I’ll let the generator run a little longer and try again. Edited July 5, 2022 by tomevansfl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 35 minutes ago, tomevansfl said: Thanks. I finally got my salesman switch turned on, or maybe it’s off, anyway I have power going to the A/C (my use/misused term for house air conditioning) and I am able to use it. However, after letting generator run for an hour or more with the switch off with still no power going to the air conditioning I was down to 74%. After letting it run with the salesman switch allowing power to the house air conditioning I am up to 100% charge on house batteries. But still can’t start engine with aux start button pressed. I think it is trying to turn over; it seems to turn the engine very slightly, but just not enough on the chassis batteries to spin the engine enough to start yet. I’ll let the generator run a little longer and try again. OK….FROM THE TOP…AGAIN. The salesman switch has NOTHING to do with your AC or Air conditioning power or system. The AC will NOT run off the Inverter. They get power directly from the Genny or the Shore plug. The salesman switch controls ALL DC circuits….lights and fans and such. It ALSO controls the 12 VDC that goes to your AC Thermostat. If you have no lights….you ain’t gonna have no AC or heat for that matter as the Thermostat is DEAD….even IF you have AC. NEXT. Do you KNOW if the Genny or Shore power charges your Chassis Batteries? My GUESS….NO. So, the Genny might run ALL DAY and not do you any good. THEREFORE, you need a pair of Automotive Jumper Cables. If you hook the Positive on the House to the Positive on the Chassis…..let it run for a few minutes to stabilize the Genny and also put a surface charge on the Chassis (starting), you SHOULD be able to crank the Engine. THAT IS THE ONLY WAY TO GET OUT OF YOUR PREDICAMENT. ReRead my post again. FINALLY…the BOOST a switch is NOT to be used for Starting”, at least on most. Your diesel pulls almost 1300 AMPS….the Boost Solenoid is rated at a max of 300, in the older MH. Mine has an Intellitec Big BOY and is only 200. You will burn up the contacts. Your manual says to HOLD THE BOOST ON for X minutes…and then rinse and repeat….maybe 5 cycles. The Jumper Cable is giving you full charging Amps of maybe 75 or so. Getting a surface charge BACK on the Chassis and having the Cable in place will work. Not THEORY…FACT. I have had to do it. Get your engine running….the alternator puts out, probably, 200 amp….or at least 160. Driving it is the best way to recharge. You need to get them topped off. Sitting around Lazy Days, most likely without power, was the culprit you ALSO need to make sure all batteries have the proper level of DISTILLED water afte being totally recharged Follow the above….and then let us know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grampy OG Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 Well here goes my two cents that with inflation is now only worth a penny. My coach has a small bank of 12v fuses in the rear closet ( Monaco put them in the worst possible place to check ). One of the 12v fuses is dedicated to my thermostat displays. Of course no thermostat display no A/C. I can't speak to your dead chassis batteries. Perhaps they are truly shot. There is the so called penny for my thoughts. Good luck, Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomevansfl Posted July 5, 2022 Author Share Posted July 5, 2022 When we bought the Diplomat last summer the dealer said the batteries were about a year old. I haven’t been able to find a date on them yet. They are Duracell marine/rv batteries (at least the chassis batteries, the house batteries look the same brand). The chassis batteries are sealed but the house batteries are not. I was able to get the salesman switch to activate and the air conditioner came on a few minutes later. This was with the generator running. The Fantastic Fans came on, too The chassis batteries appeared to NOT be charging, or at least very slowly. I spent about 3 hours at the RV with no air conditioning. Orlando at 1:00 PM was 94’F with 70% humidity. I thought I had my jumper cables with me but I didn’t so I will go back when it starts to cool down. The only thing I know to do beyond that is to buy two new chassis batteries. They’re expensive so I was hoping I wouldn’t have to, though. If I have to, I will get new ones tomorrow so we can leave on Thursday. It’s a short trip from Orlando to Tampa area. I apologize for being so ignorant but our first, and only other RV, was an Airstream trailer and all of this type thing is new to me. Thanks for all of the input. I’ll post an update later today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 You can put an automotive charger on the chassis batteries, at least overnight. Probably longer. Like Tom said, put the jumper cables on and let it transfer charge from coach to chassis batteries for 15 min or more, with generator running to keep coach batts charged. Somewhere should be a switch to measure chassis and coach battery voltage. 10V won't start squat. 11.5V might get a slow turning starter, might not. 12.5V should turn over enough to start the engine. My Salesman switch is very tempermental. I don't touch it. Someday someone else will touch it and I'll have to deal with it. - bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 14 minutes ago, cbr046 said: You can put an automotive charger on the chassis batteries, at least overnight. Probably longer. Like Tom said, put the jumper cables on and let it transfer charge from coach to chassis batteries for 15 min or more, with generator running to keep coach batts charged. Somewhere should be a switch to measure chassis and coach battery voltage. 10V won't start squat. 11.5V might get a slow turning starter, might not. 12.5V should turn over enough to start the engine. My Salesman switch is very tempermental. I don't touch it. Someday someone else will touch it and I'll have to deal with it. - bob Agreed. Only thing is that a high performance auto charger does not, unless you spend mega bucks, have the regulated or 3 stage charging of our inverter/chargers. Folks have cooked batteries with them. You only need 2 or 3 amps from a $50 battery maintainer to keep a set of Chassis batteries properly charged….I use them on my cars that stay at home when we travel. Once properly charged, the tender or maintainer, plugged in all the time, will work great. Case in point. My 18HP Koehler John Deere “charger” is a joke. The battery would last 2 years. I bought a weatherproof maintainer….got 7 years out of the battery. Bob, is correct….low voltage ain’t gonna crank that monster engine. Typically, if the chassis was not repeatedly drained, then every once and a while is OK. I have learned more about batteries that I ever though possible by reading here and doing some dumb things and also talking to Trojan. IF you have power at storage, then the recommendation to install or have installed the Blue Seas ML-ACR is the best deal and peace of mind. It lets your Xantrex, which is a good unit with multistage charging, keep BOTH SETS HAPPY. Now some folks will just leave the coach in storage….use a Jumper Cable or buy a battery maintainer and plug it in….assuming they have power at storage. great comment… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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