Dash AC-Charge Ports at Front of 2004 Signature

[Frank McElroy]

On 9/29/2022 at 12:09 PM, Tom Cherry said:

The GENERIC way to speed up IDLE is to turn on the CRUISE and then push the SET button (I think)....maybe Resume....it is in the manual.  That kicks up the idle.  Maybe not fast enough, but I have used this for REGEN when I had to stop.    Edited as noted.  Thanks. Tom Cherry; Moderator

This assumes that the cruise is part of the VIP wheel.

 

When speeds are below about 40 MPH, even though the DPF regen light may be on, the regen will be suspended.  Operating the engine at fast idle while stopped will not resume a regen.  If you need to stop at your destination while the regen light is on it's fine.  If the regen cycle was part of the normal 100 hour regen, in all likelihood, the regen light won't go back on for another 100 hours.  But if the regen was incomplete and the pressures across the DPF are too high, once back on the highway the regen light will come back on and the regen will finish.  Just don't stop too many times before allowing the DPF to do a complete regen cycle.  If that happens you run the risk of a plugged DPF and a stop engine code.

Remember, the regen light only means that the operator needs to drive the coach under conditions for the engine to do a DPF regen.  That means highway speeds (60-65 MPH) and no engine brake unless absolutely necessary to control speed going down grade.  Driving below about 40 MPH, using the engine brake or operating the engine under heavy loads like climbing grades or speeds near 70 MPH will suspend the DPF regeneration cycle but still leave the DPF regen light on.  In short, the DPF light does not necessarily mean that the a Regen is active - it could be suspended based on factors listed above.

[Mike H]

On 7/29/2022 at 8:49 PM, TimSpencer said:

This is a very common automotive/truck filter/drier receiver. Usually has a treated pumice stone as the filter/drier. 

Where are these typically located?  I am trying to locate the one on my '05 Exec.

Edited October 26, 2022 by Mike H

[Ivan K]

Passenger side of generator opening on ours. 

[Mike H]

17 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Passenger side of generator opening on ours. 

Thanks.  I'll try checking there again.  I can find the expansion valve but the dryer is eluding me.

[Guest Ray Davis]

11 hours ago, Mike H said:

Thanks.  I'll try checking there again.  I can find the expansion valve but the dryer is eluding me.

Mike, for what it's worth on my Windsor the dryer is located above the rear axle on drivers' side.  So, it seems Monaco was not consistent or logical when deciding where to pace them.

[Mike H]

39 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Mike, for what it's worth on my Windsor the dryer is located above the rear axle on drivers' side.  So, it seems Monaco was not consistent or logical when deciding where to pace them.

Yeah, I'm starting to realize that now

 

[Lee Smith]

On 8/19/2022 at 7:59 PM, Lee Smith said:

My dash AC is now fixed and working fine. I replaced the dryer/filter and the compressor. While I had the compressor off, I replaced the tensioner pully and added a new belt.

First, I drained the new compressor of its preloaded oil and then added 6 oz PAG 100 back in accordance with the Sanden compressor manual instructions. Second, I installed the new compressor. Third, I vacuumed the system for two hours. Finally, I started the engine, turned on the AC and charged the system with 60 oz of R134A. 

It seems like someone had previously removed the compressor low and high side hoses but neglected to put the correct seals back on and also over tightened so much they were completely flattened. One of the seals was normal black rubber instead of the green type as required for R134A. There were major signs of compressor oil leakage right at the connection points. The old compressor had no oil at all. There were also bad seals at the front of the RV where the dryer filter was. The new filter/dryer came with new seals.
I could not have done this work without all of the great advice from everyone on the forum.
Thank you very much.

Here are a couple of pictures at the engine for the new compressor and the new tensioner pully:

Unfortunately, the bigger problem is the need for a larger garage:

I will be working on this at my first opportunity. However, I will need to move the RV so my wife can use the garage again.
In closing, I wish to again express my great appreciation for this forum.
Bill D's Monacoers is the best.
 

Update:  Two weeks after I completed the above work, all of the R134a had leaked. Things worked great for several days but went downhill after that.

I was guessing that the expansion valve O-ring was dried out from years of not running the ac, so I replaced the expansion valve today. I obtained a tank of nitrogen and a set of gauges. I charged the system to 100 psi. Slow leak down to 80 psi in several hours. I recharged and used Big Blu to check for leaks. No leaks detected but fittings are hard to see. I then discharged the nitrogen and ran a vacuum for 1 hour. Vacuum then held for another hour so I added 60 oz of R134a. I used an electronic leak detector to check on leaks. I found that nearly every AC hose connection that included an O-ring was leaking. I used the following procedure on each connection:

1. Cleaned each connection using a solvent.

2. Installed the correct size green O-rings and coated everything with PAG 100 oil before connecting back up.

3. I then hand tightened and then a very slight snug with a wrench.

I admit to not being very good at these types of connections. I need some help with technical details on how to connect the ac hose connections to all of the various components as it appears that all of my connections that involve an O-ring are slightly leaking. The system appears to be working correctly but I am guessing I will be out of R134a in about two weeks.

Here are two pictures of the installed expansion valve. I do not have pictures of the connections prior to installation, but I am sure most of you are familiar with the types of connections for these expansion valves.

 

Thanks in advance for your help.
Lee Smith

[Ivan K]

There's no trick to get it done,  just make sure the hard line is coming in absolutely straight so the lip does not get distorted and oring is squished evenly. I like to coat the seals with the stuff in picture, it keeps them in place too. It isn't necessary but has worked for me for years.

[TimSpencer]

The above mentioned product is a great product and works well. I use Loctite 515 on o-rings on large equipment, recommended by Trane for all o-rings. It can be problematic on threads as it’s anaerobic and locks up like glass without oxygen. As long as the fittings aren’t damaged a new correct sized o-ring with assembly lube should be leak free. Inspect everything before reassembly. 

[Gary Cole]

Not sure what to think about all of your new o-rings leaking to that extent Lee. They typically work very well. Have had an rare occasional failure over many years. Always my fault. If they all leak then I would take a second look at the o-rings as Tim suggested. Maybe try another supplier. The o-rings do require being squeezed between the 2 clamping faces surfaces in order to provide the necessary compression force on the tube. However that small clamping force is limited by the design of the fitting. I don't have one in front of me however I believe the assembly is a type that bottoms out mechanically in order to limit the force on the o-ring so that the o-ring can flow from high to low pressure and provide a seal. Which is how o-rings work. The moderate torque on the nut is largely to prevent it from backing off.

A/C FITTING TORQUE GUIDE The following is a general list of recommended torque values for standard O-ring fittings for reference during service operations. Always use specific torque values on installation instructions over these general values. HOSE FITTING CONNECTIONS -- RECOMMENDED TORQUE VALUE: Fitting Size* Thread Size Torque Value (ft/lbs) # 6 5/8-18 11 to 13 # 8 3/4 - 16 or 18 15 to 18 #10 7/8 - 14 or 18 18 to 22 #12 11/16 - 14 or 16 24 to 28  COMPRESSOR FITTINGS AND SERVICE VALVES Type Thread Size Torque Value (ft/lbs) 3-Way Service Valve to Compressor Fitting 1-14 20-40 Compressor: Sanden, Seltec, Zexel 3/4-16 18-22 7/8-14 18-22 

 

eti-AC Fitting Torque Guide.pdf

Edited November 7, 2022 by Gary Cole

[Lee Smith]

20 minutes ago, Gary Cole said:

Not sure what to think about all of your new o-rings leaking to that extent Lee. They typically work very well. Have had an rare occasional failure over many years. Always my fault. If they all leak then I would take a second look at the o-rings as Tim suggested. Maybe try another supplier. The o-rings do require being squeezed between the 2 clamping faces surfaces in order to provide the necessary compression force on the tube. However that small clamping force is limited by the design of the fitting. I don't have one in front of me however I believe the assembly is a type that bottoms out mechanically in order to limit the force on the o-ring so that the o-ring can flow from high to low pressure and provide a seal. Which is how o-rings work. The moderate torque on the nut is largely to prevent it from backing off.

A/C FITTING TORQUE GUIDE The following is a general list of recommended torque values for standard O-ring fittings for reference during service operations. Always use specific torque values on installation instructions over these general values. HOSE FITTING CONNECTIONS -- RECOMMENDED TORQUE VALUE: Fitting Size* Thread Size Torque Value (ft/lbs) # 6 5/8-18 11 to 13 # 8 3/4 - 16 or 18 15 to 18 #10 7/8 - 14 or 18 18 to 22 #12 11/16 - 14 or 16 24 to 28  COMPRESSOR FITTINGS AND SERVICE VALVES Type Thread Size Torque Value (ft/lbs) 3-Way Service Valve to Compressor Fitting 1-14 20-40 Compressor: Sanden, Seltec, Zexel 3/4-16 18-22 7/8-14 18-22 

 

eti-AC Fitting Torque Guide.pdf 41.24 kB · 4 downloads

My thanks to all three members that responded. I think my problem is the connections are not tight enough, but I am seriously cautious of damaging the connection.

Here is a typical picture of the connection:

 

I need to locate a torque wrench for the above fitting. How do you determine the fitting size? Does a #8 fitting use a #8 O-ring? 

Do you think that a 1/16 turn on the wrench may fix the very minor leak or is the torque wrench the only way to go?

My thanks to all for the excellent help.

Lee Smith

 

[Ivan K]

I never gave much thought to orings, just use the size that came off, if possible. If you have to stretch and roll it on, it's too small. Should just 'tightly' slide on with the lube, dont want to have it twisted. Never used a torque wrench on them either, just get a feel for it... and don't strip the threads. Don't think I ever had a leak doing it that way.

[trailmug]

Agreed with all above. On a lot of fittings, you can test fit the o ring by sliding the threads out of the way and making sure it fits snugly into the female fitting, as well as make sure the flange doesn't bottom out with hand pressure. AFAIK, the rings have obtuse metric sizes that are diameter x thickness. If the fittings aren't pitted from moisture, maybe the rings are small? I've always found the sizes I needed in Amazon HNBR kits. 

[Gary Cole]

Lee I have never successfully stripped a fitting like the one you pictured with a standard wrench.  The shoulders will round off first. I call that close enough from the school of tighter is better. I would recommend a set of fitting wrenches which are made for the purpose. Less chance of rounding the shoulders.  Had to look it up however o rings are sized to standard dash sizes (in 1/16") of the fittings. Dash size is the first number usually followed by fractional size and thread pitch. Metric is a different story. Don't confuse that with hose size. That is oftentimes different. 

Edited November 7, 2022 by Gary Cole

[Mike H]

On 10/26/2022 at 10:39 AM, Ray Davis said:

Mike, for what it's worth on my Windsor the dryer is located above the rear axle on drivers' side.  So, it seems Monaco was not consistent or logical when deciding where to pace them.

I finally found it Ray.  It was buried behind a large bundle of wiring and hoses up in the generator bay on the passenger side of the firewall.  Now to find out a replacement part number for it.  The Monaco parts list shows a 054-00001 but the number on the dryer is 1748698, neither of which I can pull up anything on nor a cross reference part number.

[Hypoxia]

Might be this one UAC RD-6166C

UAC Receiver Dryers

[TimSpencer]

If you have room to operate you could use a torque wrench like this. But most mechanics would tighten by feel. 
https://www.amazon.com/VANPO-Adjustable-Accuracy-Indicator-Torquing/dp/B09XKCJD1T/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.a6428403-8a18-479d-9f6e-31f0b2c26f13%3Aamzn1.sym.a6428403-8a18-479d-9f6e-31f0b2c26f13&keywords=hvac+torque+wrench&pd_rd_r=8b778c08-7b15-4d9f-ba13-7b4cb1460a34&pd_rd_w=SGd20&pd_rd_wg=UrzVN&pf_rd_p=a6428403-8a18-479d-9f6e-31f0b2c26f13&pf_rd_r=E3QS8GT8N49TM365690N&qid=1667830107&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

[Guest Ray Davis]

8 hours ago, Mike H said:

I finally found it Ray.  It was buried behind a large bundle of wiring and hoses up in the generator bay on the passenger side of the firewall.  Now to find out a replacement part number for it.  The Monaco parts list shows a 054-00001 but the number on the dryer is 1748698, neither of which I can pull up anything on nor a cross reference part number.

That's great Mike,  in a way they hid yours better than mine.  Mine was in the open just not where I expected to find it.

The dryer is pretty generec, if you take it to an auto parts store or NAPA they can match it for you.    These companies are constantly changing part numbers causing a lot confusion