Steering stabilitier

[StillRunning_60]

Thinking of adding the Safe T steering Plus stabilitier to my 2002 36 PBD windsor. Reason being to eliminate some “Wandering “. Opinions as it worth the money or are there better options.

Thanks

Larry

[vanwill52]

Watts link will work MUCH better.  Silver Bullet for wandering Roadmaster chassis.  Monacowatts.com

[Sandy Swede]

Absolutely worth it.  I had it installed on our previous Newmar DS.  Improved handling in cross winds cutting down substantially on driver fatigue.  Also offers protection against side-pull in a steer tire blowout.  If you are mechanically inclined, you should be able to install it yourself.   Should be less than $600 including the mounting adapter kit.  If you at all doubt your mechanical ability to install this, I highly recommend a truck shop specializing in alignment & balancing for two reasons: 1. expertise in the work required, and 2. you will want to have the coach aligned & road tested after installation as there could be needed adjustments.  The installation ran me about $350 IIRC.  When making your decision about whether or not to have a truck shop install it, don't forget about safety when crawling underneath you coach and be sure to 'crib' the frame with wood blocks, not trusting the leveling jacks  and especially air leveling if you have that.  Even if you have someone install the Safe T Plus, you will be hard pressed to 'buy' that kind of peace of mind for less than a grand.  The Beaver Monterey that we now have came with a Blue Ox steering stabilizer "Tru Center."  More expensive, but the same principle. 

[David White]

To me the steering stabilizer and Roadmaster Wandering  discussion is an apple and orange comparisons.  I have the TruCenter and it did little for wandering, but I think it would help absorb kickback in  a blowout!

I think discussing the use on other brands might be misleading, since there are some special problems only on the Roadmaster chassis, and other things are needed.

Wandering is best corrected with the Watts link, as Van pointed out, and get the steering box adjusted to remove play, if adjustable on yours (if TRW).

I have done the stabilizer and Watts, plus gear adjustment, and can tell you that my handling  was improved greatly by the latter, which is marketed by MonacoWatts.

Edited May 4, 2020 by David White

[Bob Nodine]

As David White points out, the Monaco Roadmaster chassis has a design problem that is unique to this chassis. Things like a steering stabilizer only address the symptom and not the problem. You may experience an improvement in handling but it will be slight compared to fixing the actual problem, the instability of the H-frame. The Roadmaster chassis was originally designed by Chrysler Corporation for the city bus market but he project was abandoned before completion. We are sure that Chrysler would have eventually identified the problem and corrected it but Monaco purchased the chassis design and built it without additional design improvements. The wandering is a result of the H-frame squirming around the single fulcrum created by a single Panhard bar. The axle and consequently the tires are attached to the H-frame which is attached to the frame by four air bags. The air bags are flexible so the H-frame must be stabilized by trailing arms in the front to back direction and Panhard bars in the lateral direction. The Roadmaster chassis only uses a single Panhard bar where it should have used two, one at the front and one at the rear of the H-frame. This single Panhard bar is located in the middle of the H-frame there by creating the fulcrum point. The bushings in the trailing arms and Panhard bar are not rigged and allow some flexing. This allows the H-frame and thus the axle and wheels to twist on that single fulcrum point when a large truck or gust of wind applies pressure to the side of the coach. There are air tanks and other obstructions that prevent adding another Panhard bar after the fact and that is why Van Williams came up with the concept of using a Watts link to mitigate the problem. Mike Huges of Monacowatts.com picked up the manufacture of the Watts link custom designed for the Roadmaster chassis and should be your source of information. He can advise you if there is a kit to fit your particular coach. Installation is not difficult and can be accomplished with modest mechanical skills.

As a sidebar, before the Watts link I had installed a steering stabilizer and did notice an improvement in handling but years later actually discovered that an internal failure of that product was causing handling issues and removed it.

 

Edited May 4, 2020 by Bob Nodine

[Chet P]

The STP works great, but is much better if you match it up with the Henderson Trim adjust See this link: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/does-the-henderson-trim-unit-work-will-it-hold-position-in-a-tire-blowout-409968.html. I have on our SIG and it works as advertised. I want to try the Watts Link, but unfortunately they don't have one for a 45' SIG.

Chet

Edited May 4, 2020 by Chet P

[rmelling0]

14 hours ago, David White said:

To me the steering stabilizer and Roadmaster Wandering  discussion is an apple and orange comparisons.  I have the TruCenter and it did little for wandering, but I think it would help absorb kickback in  a blowout!

I think discussing the use on other brands might be misleading, since there are some special problems only on the Roadmaster chassis, and other things are needed.

Wandering is best corrected with the Watts link, as Van pointed out, and get the steering box adjusted to remove play, if adjustable on yours (if TRW).

I have done the stabilizer and Watts, plus gear adjustment, and can tell you that my handling  was improved greatly by the latter, which is marketed by MonacoWatts.

I have a 2000 Executive with tag axle.  I had always thought the tag axle was supposed to help driving stability but I was never really happy with mine.  I was constantly having to adjust steering to keep it pointed straight.  Wore me out.  I decided to install a Watts link.   I had a local truck shop install it for me because the front hydraulic jack mount had to be welded.  Most don't require welding but mine did.  I noticed significant improvement but it still wandered too much.  Then, a couple of years ago at the Monacoers Gathering, Scotty inspected my TRW and found it needed significant adjustment.  He adjusted it and the drive home home was the best it has ever been.   So, in my opinion, the combination of the watts link and proper steering gear adjustment is essential, at least on my coach.  Now a happy camper.  Or will be when we get to camp again.

Rick Melling 

 

[Doug Hoegh]

I second all the posts regarding the TRW steer box and the Watts link and rear sway bar solution. Together the additions make my Diplomat ride and drive like I always hoped it would. It’s nice to drive to our next destination and not be exhausted from fighting the road.

[isptbart]

Larry - I agree with most of the posts. I installed the Safe T Steer Plus on my coach myself - which was not a problem. An easy install and just ensure you tighten the bolts to spec. Test driving & fine tuning the system is a must! You need to install, test drive, adjust, test drive, & re-adjust as necessary. Installed mine two years ago & all is still well. I did not need to re-align the front end. I did not feel the Henderson Trim was necessary for me.  My TRW box was properly adjusted.  While it does help with staying on a straight track, the main reason for my install was for blow-out assistance, if ever needed.

Bart from VA

[windsorbill06]

I realize this thread is 6+ months old, but I need a little budge on this exact subject matter.

My True Center died and after extensive research, I removed it from the coach.  It's sitting on the shelf in the garage.  I'm not going to repair it.  Now thinking about installing a SafeTPlus to replace it.    I already have the front and rear watts system and the rear X bars.      Coach runs great, but haven't had it out in any strong winds since the true center went bad.   I always liked the 'on the fly' centering feature that TC offered and was one of the biggest reasons I got that system many years ago.  I know henderson offers something similar to add on to the STP.  BTW, I have the TRW steering box and Craig French  and I got that dialed in a few years ago.     Front tire blow out is always a concern, again another "Pro" on my "pro/con" list.  What say You?   should I bit the bullet?

[Bob Nodine]

16 hours ago, windsorbill06 said:

I realize this thread is 6+ months old, but I need a little budge on this exact subject matter.

My True Center died and after extensive research, I removed it from the coach.  It's sitting on the shelf in the garage.  I'm not going to repair it.  Now thinking about installing a SafeTPlus to replace it.    I already have the front and rear watts system and the rear X bars.      Coach runs great, but haven't had it out in any strong winds since the true center went bad.   I always liked the 'on the fly' centering feature that TC offered and was one of the biggest reasons I got that system many years ago.  I know henderson offers something similar to add on to the STP.  BTW, I have the TRW steering box and Craig French  and I got that dialed in a few years ago.     Front tire blow out is always a concern, again another "Pro" on my "pro/con" list.  What say You?   should I bit the bullet?

In my opinion and personal experience you would be better off to take the money you are going to spend on a steering stabilizer and add enough additional funds to put a set of Tyron bands on the front. This will be your primary tire blowout assist device. They keep the tire from coming off the rim and jamming up your ability to steer the coach. The front Watts link nullifies any steering improvement that might have been gained by adding a steering stabilizer. Its only purpose would be to assist in the event of a front tire blowout and the Tyron bands will do that for you. We installed the TrueCenter years ago prior to the Watts links and at the time could notice a slight improvement in handling. We had frequent failures of the TrueCenter and sent it to the factory once and actually went to the factory once to get it repaired. Each time we took it off and drove the coach we noticed no difference in handling and were keeping it for extra tire blowout assistance. The last time we took the TrueCenter off it actually solved a handling issue that had manifested we were blaming on a Watts link failure. That TrueCenter now rests at the bottom of a scrap metal pile and we are relying only on the Tyron bands for tire blowout assistance. And yes we had the SafeTPlus on a previous motorhome and hated how stiff it made the steering.

[windsorbill06]

Yea Bob, That option is definitely on the table.  I appreciate the comment.

 

 

[Ivylog]

After having a true center, doubt you’ll like anything that’s not adjustable on the fly. Previous owner put one on my Navigator but after 4000 miles I disconnected it. Under perfect conditions (level road and no wind) it worked fine but any crosswinds it made driving tiring as you had to fight it. I decided I would not use it unless I could change/adjust the center point on the fly. Too cheap to buy a $600 air activated adjustable mount so I made my own. 
 

With power steering I have my doubts about how much it helps in a blowout.

 

 There’s more info on what I did here: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/making-a-safe-t-plus-adjustable-451209.html

[windsorbill06]

Ivylog,

I did read on IRV2 some time ago about your mod on your existing STP.  Very creative.  Since I haven't taken the coach out in a good x-wind recently, I'm waiting until it's blowing and I'm going to try it.   I had the True center on BEFORE I did any monaco watts additions, but now with the front and rear watts, I'm real curious on how it handles.

Normally we always have cross winds, sometimes 30kts+, where we are.  I've been waiting a couple weeks and of course, is been dead calm.