IOTA 50-R FAILURE - intermittent shore power - SAFETY & FIRE HAZARD

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Gospel said:

 Is a IOTA the same as a ATS  I'm confused. Having problems with the power input for the first time.  

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/ats-501-issues-please-help-565781.html

This is what I found with only a cursory "Google".  It appears that the ATS501 has "issues" in that the "SWITCHING" brain seems to be befuddled and sometimes it will not switch both the HOT legs.  There are other "hits" on other forms. Some have said that this was a recurring problem and that the ATS50X whatever was needed.

NOW....to YOUR issue...I was just going to EDIT.

IF you have NO POWER as in the AC units will NOT work and the 5 button Thermostat is lighted or works when you push buttons, then you PROBABLY have an ATS issue.

BUT, if the AC's work BOTH OF THEM.....and there is no Microwave power or receptacles, that is most likely an issue with the Inverter/Charger.

Whatever it is....it DOES sound like from other owners and several posts that the ATS501 may not be the most robust and reliable ATS.

You will have to decide and find out then resolve....read the entire list of comments in this post....to make a decision, IF NEEDED.... That does clear up an issue when there are failures in all brands....which indicate an ATS issue and not their circuitry or such.

Good Luck.... Let us know.

[Gospel]

Thanks, I Have ordered a Progressive HW50C to use with my Parallax ATS501, if the ATS does not function or can't be fixed then I will Order a ESCO LPT50BRD. 

[Tom Cherry]

33 minutes ago, Gospel said:

Thanks, I Have ordered a Progressive HW50C to use with my Parallax ATS501, if the ATS does not function or can't be fixed then I will Order a ESCO LPT50BRD. 

Good call.  Make SURE that the HW50C is UPSTREAM or connected directly to the SHORE POWER.  Do NOT put it on the DOWNSTREAM SIDE.  I have posted something about that....and this comes from the original owner of Progressive and the ONLY failure we ever have seen, other than a board, 

Good Choice.  I am 100% confidence in my HW50C and LPT50BRD....after many years of heavy duty, not full timing, use...

[RNMCBR]

I looked at my IOTA transfer switch last year to understand why the terminal lugs would heat up causing a fire or electrical melt. The lugs appear very robust and should easily handle the service current. I was disappointed in what I found. The lugs have holes about .250 in diameter and slotted hold down screws that look like 1/4-28. The problem is, the wiring inside the switch looks like #6 stranded, which is much smaller diameter than the hole. There is no crimped ferrule on the wires. This leads to a stranded wire in a very loose hole that gets smashed and spread by the screw, or only partially pinched by the screw. This could easily lead to insufficient contact between the wire and lug, overheating and meltdown or fire. This problem is even worse on the lugs that have doubled neutral (white) wires. Coincidently, the two failed IOTA transfer switches I have seen both failed at the double neutral connection. This would seem to be a worst case when operating on a 8kw or lower generator because they produce two 110 outputs that are not opposite phase like a utility 220-240 supply. The current at the double neutral lug would therefore be the sum of the currents of the two 110 legs when running on generator. There may be other issues with these switches but this was enough to convince me to replace mine with the ESCO mentioned above. 
I think if I were unable to replace an IOTA switch like this one right away, I would at least crimp ferrels onto the wire ends to improve the contact at the lugs.
The pictures below show what I found. Note some of the wires are only partially pinched by the screw. One of the white wires seems to be captured by no more than 25% of its strands. Not good in my opinion. 

[Tom Cherry]

14 minutes ago, RNMCBR said:

I looked at my IOTA transfer switch last year to understand why the terminal lugs would heat up causing a fire or electrical melt. The lugs appear very robust and should easily handle the service current. I was disappointed in what I found. The lugs have holes about .250 in diameter and slotted hold down screws that look like 1/4-28. The problem is, the wiring inside the switch looks like #6 stranded, which is much smaller diameter than the hole. There is no crimped ferrule on the wires. This leads to a stranded wire in a very loose hole that gets smashed and spread by the screw, or only partially pinched by the screw. This could easily lead to insufficient contact between the wire and lug, overheating and meltdown or fire. This problem is even worse on the lugs that have doubled neutral (white) wires. Coincidently, the two failed IOTA transfer switches I have seen both failed at the double neutral connection. This would seem to be a worst case when operating on a 8kw or lower generator because they produce two 110 outputs that are not opposite phase like a utility 220-240 supply. The current at the double neutral lug would therefore be the sum of the currents of the two 110 legs when running on generator. There may be other issues with these switches but this was enough to convince me to replace mine with the ESCO mentioned above. 
I think if I were unable to replace an IOTA switch like this one right away, I would at least crimp ferrels onto the wire ends to improve the contact at the lugs.
The pictures below show what I found. Note some of the wires are only partially pinched by the screw. One of the white wires seems to be captured by no more than 25% of its strands. Not good in my opinion. 

Interesting.  My IOTA had different screws.  They were #2 Recess.  Maybe THAT explains some issues.  I THINK that I used the IOTA in the ESCO LPT50BRD.  

SO....MY COMMENT....DO NOT USE THEM....Stick with what ESCO HAS....Will update my posts....if I can run them down.

Thanks,

[MyronTruex]

5 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

So does anyone have experiance with this unit?

https://www.adventurerv.net/wfco-amp-transfer-switch-t57-p-30631.html?osCsid=dr40fn19n2eg9jsu2pn1mobar1

 

This is the one I installed a few year ago and am very happy with it. 

 

[Gospel]

I just purchases a Progressive HW50 C surge protector and a ESCO LPT50BRD, I am going to solder all stranded wire before putting them on the lugs to make  a better connection in the lugs.  

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Gospel said:

I just purchases a Progressive HW50 C surge protector and a ESCO LPT50BRD, I am going to solder all stranded wire before putting them on the lugs to make  a better connection in the lugs.  

Resin core electronic solder is best.  Some folks have used acid core…LOL.

Obviously I think you made the most logical choice…. DOUBLE LOL!

[Grampy OG]

Case in point - my IOTA

 

 

 

Edited August 11, 2022 by Grampy OG

[MyronTruex]

Soldering stranded wires can make them prone to breaking. I'm not saying to not do it but the wires must be held in place and not subject to vibrations or movement in any way.

If the installation does not show or indicate soldering I would reconsider. There is a molecular change when stranded wires are crimped or under pressure from terminal screws etc. Solder may actually not allow as much surface contact with the intended hole it is placed in. The smashing of the wires into the whole of the area will insure plenty of conductors are working for you. My humble opinion of course and it is impossible to get two electronic techs to agree on anything.

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, myrontruex said:

Soldering stranded wires can make them prone to breaking. I'm not saying to not do it but the wires must be held in place and not subject to vibrations or movement in any way.

If the installation does not show or indicate soldering I would reconsider. There is a molecular change when stranded wires are crimped or under pressure from terminal screws etc. Solder may actually not allow as much surface contact with the intended hole it is placed in. The smashing of the wires into the whole of the area will insure plenty of conductors are working for you. My humble opinion of course and it is impossible to get two electronic techs to agree on anything.

I was not going to go there, but, with your comments and knowledge, then I will comment.  My background is in manufacturing and then "staff".  Many years of direct supervision of large plant maintenance departments....as well as having supervisors, one a NC Licensed electrician, report to me. We NEVER soldered or tinned connections, unless it was a soldered joint. NEC and UL both stipulate "Mechanical" connections.  You "CAN" solder and then use mechanical, but some building inspectors will object. The idea of using a butt connector on the end and then under the terminal is a little risky as the surface contact area is smaller.  If there was a crimped on connector with a large tang or flat, heavy duty end that would fit under would be an alternative.

I have personally done a lot of house wiring....including two standby generator installs and countless other projects where you use #4. My experience....YES, the copper will shift.  That comes from tightening down one conductor and then the other three....  BUT, if you finish the entire job....with the rag and screwdriver torque method....the gently pull or tug on each piece of Romex (cable) and THEN....go back and do the retightening....TWICE...that you will have a good connection. 

I DID use Loctite on my LPT50BRD and had installed an HW50C and also put in two "plugs"....a female and a male...for my old Surge Guard. So, I do have a few achy fingers and blisters.  My HW50C is tight.  So are the rest. I also have put on several 50 amp plugs for my emergency generators as I upgraded. I always use the TIGHTEN....then tug and wiggle...then double tighten. 

My thoughts....and also the NEC/UL regs...say do not tin or solder....do it like it was designed...but be thorough.

[Gospel]

Thank you for you input, I will be installing the Progressive surge protector and the LPT50BRD ATS as soon as I get them. Will consider your solder or not to solder comments. Your logic on tighten & tugging then retightening does work,

[Martinvz]

Any knowledge on the Elkhart and Lyght LPT50BRD vs Esco LPT50BRD. It seems that the Lyght and Elkhart contain the same internals at $218 (Amazon) as the Esco at $360.

[Dr4Film]

They are the same.

[marcbachman]

Hello all, and thank you. So I have decided to upgrade to a Southwire 41260 which has some protection, I guess. And, yes, I have stranded wire which is really not made for the bus bar on my new transfer switch. Does anyone know where these crimp ferrules for stranded wire come from? I was wondering if any kind of hollow brass thing would work? I don't think any copper tubing would be that small. I'm going to check the hardware store, but my local source has done away with all the curious stuff they used to stock, so I'm thinking I won't find anything. I think it is correct that stranded wire is subject to breakage both from heat stress and compression by the torque against the steel bolt end. When the heck did I get so picky? When I spent the bucks on my camper.

[Guest Ray Davis]

1 hour ago, myrontruex said:

Soldering stranded wires can make them prone to breaking. I'm not saying to not do it but the wires must be held in place and not subject to vibrations or movement in any way.

If the installation does not show or indicate soldering I would reconsider. There is a molecular change when stranded wires are crimped or under pressure from terminal screws etc. Solder may actually not allow as much surface contact with the intended hole it is placed in. The smashing of the wires into the whole of the area will insure plenty of conductors are working for you. My humble opinion of course and it is impossible to get two electronic techs to agree on anything.

Thanks Myron, a really good post.   

I think a big factor is that solder is soft and will relax over time when under a pressure like a screw or clamp resulting in a loose screw / connection.

Speaking of loose screws, in my youth, many moons ago, I was all into electronics.  Those were the days of solder, vacuum tubes,  B+, and lots of heat, those tubes put out the heat.

                                                                                                                                                                              

Building a portable regenerative receiver was fun, fun, fun, when you could get it to work  I could listen all around the world.   The batteries would keep a young guy broke though.  Virtually everthing was soldered back then.   We started out with soldering irons then soldering guns now back to irons.  The guns were great, they heated up quick.  I think I still have a couple of guns.   Haven't seen those for sale in years. 

 Transistors came along and pushed that world aside which eventually proved to be a vast improvement. We moved mostly from high voltage B+ 250 volt tubes to 12 volts or less and much lower current in most cases.     250 volts will litterally knock the snot out of you, I remember it well

 

 A portable radio would now fit in your shirt pocket and operate on a tiny 9 volt battery.                                                                 Those were the days, Radio Shack & electronic surplus stores.       Solid state theory, was new stuff to try to wrap my brain around.  Then along came integrate circuits, that were developed right out here at     Texas  Instruments aka T.I.                                                                                                    By then I was grown and working and had other things on my mind such as cars & girls.                                                                                                                     Should of stayed in electronics,    only kidding,         I ( we ) have been blessed beyond all that I deserve,            God is good. 

  Lets go solder something   

[Tom Cherry]

16 minutes ago, Martinvz said:

Any knowledge on the Elkhart and Lyght LPT50BRD vs Esco LPT50BRD. It seems that the Lyght and Elkhart contain the same internals at $218 (Amazon) as the Esco at $360.

Direct from ESCO Tech Support...574-264-4156...with only a 2 minute hold.  ESCO's current product carries the LYGHT brand. I called and they said...ESCO Logo.  OPPS...  Found the LYGHT all over the internet.  Called back...got the same person. He said...YOU MAY BE RIGHT...  I THOUGHT mine, much older had only a Generic ESCO label, and LPT50BRD on the lower right. I also found THAT artwork online....without the big LYGHT Logo. 

OK...they are, as Richard pointed out...the same. NOW, my own dumb logic is that, since the ESCO person, the second phone call,  went out into the warehouse and pulled one....you would be getting an OLDER one if it did not have the LYGHT logo.  Trust me....Marketing, who controls the ad and labeling, does strange things...

He also said that INSIDE the cover, it was PLAINLY Labeled as ESCO and the phone numbers and wiring diagrams. He added that in 2001, as I posted...they bought the LYGHT Name and Products and Manufacturing Rights and Intellectual Property Rights....in other words, they bought out LYGHT....for this product....which I think was the only LYGHT product.  Richard had one and know the history also.  ESCO is the only one manufacturing this product....

He DID CAUTION that the "SELLER" must provide the warranty issues or such, back through them.  This is NOT UNUSUAL.  The popular Remco water pumps have been "tagged" on Amazon, from some vendors, as "NO WARRANTY because the Amazon Seller was a third party and NOT an Authorized REMCO Dealer." 

Bottom Line.  Get the LYGHT Branded one....and make sure, by calling ESCO, that the dealer or Seller is Authorized.  When I googled LYGHT 50BRD, I got a host of hits from many of the more reputable and well known RV Products vendors....including many that I have used...so do your due diligence.

This was an interesting exercise....and if my MH was stored at home, I could check.... 

[Tom Cherry]

17 minutes ago, marcbachman said:

Hello all, and thank you. So I have decided to upgrade to a Southwire 41260 which has some protection, I guess. And, yes, I have stranded wire which is really not made for the bus bar on my new transfer switch. Does anyone know where these crimp ferrules for stranded wire come from? I was wondering if any kind of hollow brass thing would work? I don't think any copper tubing would be that small. I'm going to check the hardware store, but my local source has done away with all the curious stuff they used to stock, so I'm thinking I won't find anything. I think it is correct that stranded wire is subject to breakage both from heat stress and compression by the torque against the steel bolt end. When the heck did I get so picky? When I spent the bucks on my camper.

https://www.productsforautomation.com/cembre-a2p14-6awg-pin-terminal-p/A3-P14.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjwrs2XBhDjARIsAHVymmT2M9C2pMOXVT6qyLGP9voNgkJoa5Y-klFTlTgt6T_033FdCHut_JUaAjkqEALw_wcB

This answers your question. 

BUT....with a BIG CAVEAT.....

Will it fit inside?  Does the manufacturer recommend that?  Will that void your warranty?  Is it NEC/UL approved? 

I have been "wiring" houses and cars since I was 13....so that is 64 years of experience.  I have never seen these used in any high current industrial application.  NOW, the MH is different. BUT, if the manufacturer, knowing of the environment and use says to use the terminal strip with bare stranded copper....you make the call.

I CAN tell you that ESCO said that using Loctite GREEN would improve the service life and lead to less frequent "checking and tightening".  And the Green is designed specifically to be lower strength and not require external heat (Soldering Gun tip) to break it loose like the Blue and Red.  I did mine that way 

I installed my ESCO LPT50BRD in April, 2012, per my records.  I spent quite a bit of time then, as posted, on the phone and Loctited mine....

"No other warranties or guarantees nor indications, whether implied or such..... of past or future performance....as the Lawyers and Stock Brokers and Mutual Funds say.....  LOL

[MyronTruex]

Ahh, the 350 Watt American Beauty soldering gun got many hours and pounds and pounds of solder over the years.

Carried three tube caddies for years. Burned my fingers many times.

Changed vibrators in many two-way radios. Got my ass shocked too many times to remember. I stutter a lot these days. 

Got blasted with 30K volts that sent me across a room wondering if my heart was going to stop. That one hurt.------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------

If crimp on connectors are needed they need to be sized properly. You can find non insulated copper ones that would be suited for the task. You might not have the tools or room for a large crimp tool to get to the ends of the cables. So in some cases, soldering is fine. Rosin core only. Wrap a wet rag just beyond the stripped part to help prevent creeping of the insulation. You can use a good Scotch 33 or better yet, Scotch 88 to insulate any area that creeped back.

A gun type soldering gun really is a bit too slow for these connectors. A very small torch works well and is precise. Tin the connector before installing it. Let the solder suck into the connector and use plenty of it. A quick shake away from the project can remove a lot of excess.

If you get any solder on the connector that will have the mounting screw go through be sure to sand, file, or scrape it smooth so the surface is flat as it should be.

There are products you can use to lock the heads of the connectors and will indicate by a crack line if moved. I can't remember what it is called.

[cbr046]

I have a TRC (Technology Research Corp) 40100 that replaced the OEM IOTA.  It looks identical to the Southwire 40100 and similar to the 41260 above.  It's mounted at a 45d angle in the bay so all the wires would fit (I suppose).  So yah, I'm thinking the 41260 will fit but some creativity might be needed.

To digress, I had a Knight-Kit Star Roamer to keep me occupied in my teens.  Radio Moscow, Radio Prague, Radio China (very rarely), BBC, VoA.   I missed it so much I bought a non-working one a few years ago just to look at . . . . until I got bored and decided to fix it.  Works good but nobody broadcasts anymore. 

- bob

[marcbachman]

I have 3 house/hobby wire crimpers that go up to maybe 16 stranded, don't know what to do for industrial type crimpers. I have wanted to be able to crimp lugs on the giant cable that goes to my batteries, another wish item. So what crimpers shall I look for for 8 gauge and up? Yes. After I get done with this maybe y'all can tell me how to put together a solar battery maintainer. I'm having problems with my inverter, I think, because it doesn't want to invert when my house batteries are low. Another subject. Anyway...

20 minutes ago, myrontruex said:

Ahh, the 350 Watt American Beauty soldering gun got many hours and pounds and pounds of solder over the years.

Carried three tube caddies for years. Burned my fingers many times.

Changed vibrators in many two-way radios. Got my ass shocked too many times to remember. I stutter a lot these days. 

Got blasted with 30K volts that sent me across a room wondering if my heart was going to stop. That one hurt.------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------

If crimp on connectors are needed they need to be sized properly. You can find non insulated copper ones that would be suited for the task. You might not have the tools or room for a large crimp tool to get to the ends of the cables. So in some cases, soldering is fine. Rosin core only. Wrap a wet rag just beyond the stripped part to help prevent creeping of the insulation. You can use a good Scotch 33 or better yet, Scotch 88 to insulate any area that creeped back.

A gun type soldering gun really is a bit too slow for these connectors. A very small torch works well and is precise. Tin the connector before installing it. Let the solder suck into the connector and use plenty of it. A quick shake away from the project can remove a lot of excess.

If you get any solder on the connector that will have the mounting screw go through be sure to sand, file, or scrape it smooth so the surface is flat as it should be.

There are products you can use to lock the heads of the connectors and will indicate by a crack line if moved. I can't remember what it is called.

 

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, marcbachman said:

I have 3 house/hobby wire crimpers that go up to maybe 16 stranded, don't know what to do for industrial type crimpers. I have wanted to be able to crimp lugs on the giant cable that goes to my batteries, another wish item. So what crimpers shall I look for for 8 gauge and up? Yes. After I get done with this maybe y'all can tell me how to put together a solar battery maintainer. I'm having problems with my inverter, I think, because it doesn't want to invert when my house batteries are low. Another subject. Anyway...

 

haisstronica Crimping Tool for Non-Insulated Terminal,AWG 22-6 Ratchet Wire Crimper Tool,Wire Terminal Crimper HS-7327
 

$24 on Amazon.  I admit that my crimping over the years was in more common sizes.  Rarely did anything bigger than a #12.  I have a super heavy duty YELLOW/RED/BLUE high $$ ratcheting crimper that my hand tool company bought from one of the leading manufacturers and private labeled….and it has interchangeable jaws that can be swapped for Coaxial cable terminals.  
 

The yellow butt or connectors are only good for #10.  LEARNED something.  From a person with excellent grip strength, for his age, I can tell you that no squeeze crimper will match the results, as the jaws are fixed , of a ratchet style.

So, if one is of a mind to crimp a connector and them terminate, this would probably, based on the ratings, be a good choice.

BATTERY Cables….You need a hydraulic battery terminal crimper.  I paid $60 for this one a few years ago.  It is a 16 ton and works great.  I worry about over crimping….

16 Ton Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool - Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper with 11 Sets of Die Pairs, 16mm to 300mm.  If you copy the previous sentence, it may show up on AMAZON. Unavailable.  CHROMEX is the brand and it had 1000 ratings.  There is an “best seller” for $150.  I don’t know, nor did the instructions say to crimp to a stop.  The dies on mine were not “wire size” labeled….metric so I chose the right diameter.

Some may have a positive stop based on the cable size.  Do some research.  All I can say is crimping is easy.  Cutting off the cable with a sharp clean cut, although many just hacksaw, is the trick.  And you have to keep the tiny strands “twisted and tight” in order to get them started in the fittings.  Got better as I did more.  The higher the cost….more flexibility….tinier the strands…welding cable….the tougher for a good hard cut and the strands “maintaining” the original diameter.  
 

I did maybe 8 or so….2/0 cable.  Carry some exact replacement fittings (terminal hole size diameter and cable size) for the main battery cables if I ever have to cut off and replace.  The 4/0 is gonna be a test of my skills.  This crimper will also do aircraft cable fittings.

Thats as much as I know for a fact from experience and research.

[CaptPat]

On 8/8/2022 at 11:15 AM, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

The first thing you need to do is to get rid of your IOTA transfer switch.  There was a recall on that PTS.  It will catch on fire and burn down your coach.  The recall recommends unplugging your coach from shore power to keep from catching fire.   Tightening all connections will NOT prevent a fire.      https://community.fmca.com/topic/3781-transfer-switch-iota-50r/

Chuck B  2004 Windsor

^^^^ This.  Several years ago our transfer switch caught fire while we were camping.  Luckily the fire was able to be confined to the switch itself, it went out when the SP breaker tripped.  With a damaged/unusable transfer switch there are limited power options in the coach as SP and Generator can't be used.  Of course it was summer time and there were no transfer switches available locally, it was a long and hot trip home.

[marcbachman]

Hello, Monacoers- I am going to tell on myself. I can use a voltmeter but am apparently too lazy. I ordered the new transfer switch, which should be here today. I did a little bit more analysis to find out that my IOTA transfer switch indeed latches every time. Apparently the inverter, Magnum ME2012, was not inverting when I plugged in to shore power, and I erroneously assumed that it was the transfer switch. I took off the inspection cover on the side of the inverter, and verified that the incoming voltage was there @115 VAC, but that there was 0 output voltage to the coach. So I'm just presuming that since the house batteries were down that the inverter had gone into recharge mode to charge my house batteries, and that nothing will work until those batteries were charged. I checked later, and the Status panel in my camper showed that I had 50 amps, all my 12V appliances were green LED,  and the MAGNUM panel showed "Absorption Charging" and a voltage number,  or something like that. So the implication is that the transfer switch is latching, but my batteries had run down to where the inverter was shut off, until the batteries were charged enough. So the detail left to consult is that the new transfer switch is designed for the shore power and generator power lines to come in on one side, and the 115V to come out of the opposite side. I hope I have enough slack to make this work and there is enough room inside the new transfer switch, and that I can find the room to punch a hole for the output power going to the coach.

On 8/8/2022 at 10:15 AM, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

The first thing you need to do is to get rid of your IOTA transfer switch.  There was a recall on that PTS.  It will catch on fire and burn down your coach.  The recall recommends unplugging your coach from shore power to keep from catching fire.   Tightening all connections will NOT prevent a fire.      https://community.fmca.com/topic/3781-transfer-switch-iota-50r/

Chuck B  2004 Windsor

 

[Paul J A]

50 minutes ago, marcbachman said:

Hello, Monacoers- I am going to tell on myself. I can use a voltmeter but am apparently too lazy. I ordered the new transfer switch, which should be here today. I did a little bit more analysis to find out that my IOTA transfer switch indeed latches every time. Apparently the inverter, Magnum ME2012, was not inverting when I plugged in to shore power, and I erroneously assumed that it was the transfer switch. I took off the inspection cover on the side of the inverter, and verified that the incoming voltage was there @115 VAC, but that there was 0 output voltage to the coach. So I'm just presuming that since the house batteries were down that the inverter had gone into recharge mode to charge my house batteries, and that nothing will work until those batteries were charged. I checked later, and the Status panel in my camper showed that I had 50 amps, all my 12V appliances were green LED,  and the MAGNUM panel showed "Absorption Charging" and a voltage number,  or something like that. So the implication is that the transfer switch is latching, but my batteries had run down to where the inverter was shut off, until the batteries were charged enough. So the detail left to consult is that the new transfer switch is designed for the shore power and generator power lines to come in on one side, and the 115V to come out of the opposite side. I hope I have enough slack to make this work and there is enough room inside the new transfer switch, and that I can find the room to punch a hole for the output power going to the coach.

 

What transfer switch would you recommend?