Air Dump Solenoid Replacement

[NGADawgs]

I have had two different issues which both pointed to a bad air dump solenoid.  The first issue was "Sometimes" an air bag would deflate if the coach was parked with the air bags inflated.  The second issue was that "Sometimes" a single air bag wouldn't deflate when I got to a campsite.  Therefore I had to fill the bags.  Besides the entry step being high, this meant that if anyone was walking around inside the RV, it was felt by all...

The research I did didn't give me any part numbers so I just went to Amazon to see what I could find.  I did find an air solenoid with 1/2" fittings.  I decided to go with it as I wanted the air dump to be quicker.  In hindsight, finding one with 3/8" fittings would probably work just as fast as the airline is the bottleneck.  

 

The next issue I had was how to mount it since it didn't include anything to do so.  Therefore, I found some scrap aluminum angle and with a drill and a file I fabricated a mount.  I used cable ties to tie the two pieces together.

 

I had to add a reducer bushing and an air muffler...I also got these off of Amazon.  I also used a 3/8" reducer that is not shown.

 

 

Below are the pics from the two units installed in the rear and a closeup.  I mounted them offset so that I would always know that the top one is for roadside (left).  Access was easy through the dash AC coil door on the side of my coach.

 

 

I have always lived by the motto "Function over Form".  Like so many things I contrive...it ain't necessarily pretty, but it is secure and dumps most of the air out in 10 seconds.  A full bleed is done in about 20 seconds.  However...it is louder, but generally we try to arrive mid afternoon and never hit the dump valve while people are sleeping nearby.   

While doing the testing, I unhooked the quick connect for the dash AC coil fan since it was spinning right in my ear while working.  As always, I stuck a sticky note on the windshield to remind me to hook it back up later.

One other thought...

We stayed on a state park campground site once that was very steep from front to back... the rear wheels were about 24" lower elevation than the front wheels.  By unhooking the power to the rear dump valves and then pushing the Air Dump switch, I was able to drop the front of the coach and leave the back air bags inflated.  That way I was able to get my coach semi-level where it would have been impossible otherwise.

Links to parts:

Solenoid:  https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0Q4QYI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Air Mufflers:  https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TSKNDTR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

I have been a motor coach owner for less than two years and want to thank all of those posting on this site for the great info.  I have accomplished many of your projects and at this rate, I will be working on many more for the rest of my days...

 

[Plowboy]

Hello Sir, I'm new to this group. I have a 2002 Windsor. We are having issues with leveling. Dumping etc. I've been under the coach looking and taking photos. I've found the 6 packs in the front and rear. Where did you find the dump values?

 

Thanks Chris

[Bill R]

10 hours ago, Plowboy said:

Where did you find the dump values?

Chris - what type of leveling system do you have?  Is it a Valid or HWH System?  If it is a Valid system like mine that levels the coach using the air bags, then you may not have dump valves.  Rather, like on my coach, when I engage the air dump it just simultaneously opens all exhaust ports (4 total) on the six pack levelers and dumps the air from the bags.

[Plowboy]

Hello Bill, here is some of the information and pictures that I have. I’m still reaching and I’m always open to listening to others that have had a similar problem. My coach doesn’t seem to level as well as it should. I’ve done a few test with the HWH panel. It will not lower at all using any of the buttons, it will raise in the front but not the back. When I start the engine and push the parking brake in it does go straight to travel mode with out any problems. This is where I’m at currently. 
 

 

[Bill R]

Chris - I do not have an HWH system, so I will not be of much benefit.  Maybe others who have HWH systems will chime in.  But it definitely sounds like the system is not releasing air to lower the coach.

You might want to use the Search Bar and type HWH Level and you will get many discussions.  Read through them and start to poke around your system.  Also, see if you can get a manual of your system and read through it.  Should be able to find one online.

Unfortunately these type of problems are not simply found and take the funnel approach to resolve.  First step is to get to know your system and components and start to narrow down the symptoms.  Sorry I can't help on the dump valves.  All the best.

[Ivan K]

Chris, do you at least hear the solenoids click when you push the button?  You have no dump valves, only the 2 or 3 sixpacks. I got the same 600 series. If no clicking, there is a number of potential causes and I experienced a number of them. You can test continuity of sixpack coils from the controller. I had to replace one. If coil continuity checks out but there is no power to the coil at that respective fuse, it could be a bad button(s) in the touch pad, I replaced all of them. The connecting cable connections on both sides are always my first suspect. I also had a rodent in the controller box.

BTW, these are the exhaust ports that could also be plugged by those nasty bugs

Edited January 6, 2023 by Ivan K

[Plowboy]

Thank you Ivan. I plan to check the continuity today. When the company sprayed undercoating under the coach they got it on everything. It’s on the tags for the wires. Very frustrating. 
 

Chris

[jacwjames]

Do you have a wiring diagram, it would show if you have any additional dump valves.

I do not have air leveling, just jacks and it does show the air dump valves, I have 3, one in the front and two in the back mounted above the hydraulic reservoir for the steering & fan. 

[Ivan K]

4 hours ago, Plowboy said:

Thank you Ivan. I plan to check the continuity today. When the company sprayed undercoating under the coach they got it on everything. It’s on the tags for the wires. Very frustrating. 
 

Chris

For that reason it was easier for me to check the coil continuity and resistance from the controller box where all the coil leads terminate and have a common ground first.

[Plowboy]

Well today I climbed under my coach to check the continuity of the valves on the two six packs. The front, There are six valves on one side, they all checked the same and best I can tell ok. The two pressure  the other side, one check no continuity and the other check similar to the six valves on the front. There is no air in the system, I thought the pressure valves would check the same if they were good. So then I go to the rear of the coach Same scenario as the front, but there’s only one pressure valve in this six pack valve block. It also checks as no continuity. The pictures below are showing the two pressure valves on the back of the front six pack  

Any thoughts?

[Ivan K]

Chris, what you show on the back side of sixpacks, are pressure switches. They should be either open or closed depending if there is or isn't pressure on them. They are important in preventig twisting of the frame. Like when one corner is all the way to near empty, it will prevent dropping of the opposite corner. So if they misbehave, you may not be able to drop the axle.

[Plowboy]

Thanks Ivan