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Replacement of the overhead florescent lights.


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Replaced the florescent tube lights with Leisure RV lights. They say they are the same size but the screw locations do not match up and have nothing you can screw into. I ended up taking the old lights down, gutted them and put the housing back into the ceiling. This gave me something I could screw the new lights into. Here are some photos of the process. Once I had it figured out it took about 10 minutes per light. Here is a link to the lights if anyone is interested.https://leisurervparts.com/led-rv-led-ceiling-interior.../

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I just replaced the florescent bulbs with LED 12v replacements. It meant I needed to take each fixture down and rewire it so it didn't use a ballast. It was pretty simple and has been working well for 2 years now. To replace all my interior lights (fluorescent and incandescent) was about 200. I have only had 1 led bulb go bad in 2 years.

I found the LED replacements were often available in warm white, instead of the cold white of the fluorescents.  I like the warmer light better.

You did a nice replacement job, your fixtures look very professional.

John

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wow,

That looks great. Could you post the brand of the original OEM Fixtures.  Monaco used several and it would help folks. if you knew the size of them, that also helped.  Mine are fully "self contained. You can't get inside to the ballast or do any work.  You have to drill out the pop rivets....  Mine look similar except the switch is different. Never popped them out....

One note...picky, but it needs to be made.  The conventional twist on wire nuts have proven to be high unreliable as they tend to loosen when you drive a MH.  Someone said it was like you house being in an Earthquake of Magnitude 4.5 or so when driving. Monaco used the Crimp On butt splices. A ratchetting crimping tool works better and is much more reliable than just a pair of the cheap "pliers" type. Those better ratchetting tools sell on Amazon below $30 or so. Many of our members carry a lot of electrical supplies and such and most have a pair of them in their "gotta fix this".  I do.  I have had 4 or 5 of Monaco's splices fail....so I know first hand.

Thanks again for the post.  Keep us updated on how they work or last.

5 minutes ago, JohnC3 said:

I just replaced the florescent bulbs with LED 12v replacements. It meant I needed to take each fixture down and rewire it so it didn't use a ballast. It was pretty simple and has been working well for 2 years now. To replace all my interior lights (fluorescent and incandescent) was about 200. I have only had 1 led bulb go bad in 2 years.

I found the LED replacements were often available in warm white, instead of the cold white of the fluorescents.  I like the warmer light better.

You did a nice replacement job, your fixtures look very professional.

John

Making an assumption.  You used the 12 VDC ones, like Lowe's carries.  You then rewired the existing end caps and never took apart the fixtures. I plan to do that if mine start to act up. My fixtures are totally pop riveted so that it is a major disassembly to get inside them...

We MAY or MAY NOT have the same fixtures....Monaco, you know.  LOL.  I had planned on using the Monaco 12 VDC and if it ran straight to the side switch, splice or connect there and rewire the ends.  Did not want to tear into the fixtures and the old ballasts could stay there.  Other wise....Drill a hole in the top and through to the bottom reflector. Put in a Grommet on each hole....then run the two leads down and rewire without disassembly.

Comment if you can.

Thanks,

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13 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

wow,

That looks great. Could you post the brand of the original OEM Fixtures.  Monaco used several and it would help folks. if you knew the size of them, that also helped.  Mine are fully "self contained. You can't get inside to the ballast or do any work.  You have to drill out the pop rivets....  Mine look similar except the switch is different. Never popped them out....

One note...picky, but it needs to be made.  The conventional twist on wire nuts have proven to be high unreliable as they tend to loosen when you drive a MH.  Someone said it was like you house being in an Earthquake of Magnitude 4.5 or so when driving. Monaco used the Crimp On butt splices. A ratchetting crimping tool works better and is much more reliable than just a pair of the cheap "pliers" type. Those better ratchetting tools sell on Amazon below $30 or so. Many of our members carry a lot of electrical supplies and such and most have a pair of them in their "gotta fix this".  I do.  I have had 4 or 5 of Monaco's splices fail....so I know first hand.

Thanks again for the post.  Keep us updated on how they work or last.

Making an assumption.  You used the 12 VDC ones, like Lowe's carries.  You then rewired the existing end caps and never took apart the fixtures. I plan to do that if mine start to act up. My fixtures are totally pop riveted so that it is a major disassembly to get inside them...

We MAY or MAY NOT have the same fixtures....Monaco, you know.  LOL.  I had planned on using the Monaco 12 VDC and if it ran straight to the side switch, splice or connect there and rewire the ends.  Did not want to tear into the fixtures and the old ballasts could stay there.  Other wise....Drill a hole in the top and through to the bottom reflector. Put in a Grommet on each hole....then run the two leads down and rewire without disassembly.

Comment if you can.

Thanks,

I am not sure the brand of the original light fixtures.  My plan was not to gut them out but I need something to screw the new lights into.  I typically don't use wire nuts but that was the way the old fixtures were wired in when I took them down minus the very front one. 

 

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Nice looking replacement job!  The DW likes the new look of the fixtures and I now have a new project.  Thanks for the great idea and the link to the parts.

Edited by StephenW
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