Replacement of the overhead florescent lights.

[blackanodize]

Replaced the florescent tube lights with Leisure RV lights. They say they are the same size but the screw locations do not match up and have nothing you can screw into. I ended up taking the old lights down, gutted them and put the housing back into the ceiling. This gave me something I could screw the new lights into. Here are some photos of the process. Once I had it figured out it took about 10 minutes per light. Here is a link to the lights if anyone is interested.https://leisurervparts.com/led-rv-led-ceiling-interior.../

[JohnC3]

I just replaced the florescent bulbs with LED 12v replacements. It meant I needed to take each fixture down and rewire it so it didn't use a ballast. It was pretty simple and has been working well for 2 years now. To replace all my interior lights (fluorescent and incandescent) was about 200. I have only had 1 led bulb go bad in 2 years.

I found the LED replacements were often available in warm white, instead of the cold white of the fluorescents.  I like the warmer light better.

You did a nice replacement job, your fixtures look very professional.

John

[Tom Cherry]

wow,

That looks great. Could you post the brand of the original OEM Fixtures.  Monaco used several and it would help folks. if you knew the size of them, that also helped.  Mine are fully "self contained. You can't get inside to the ballast or do any work.  You have to drill out the pop rivets....  Mine look similar except the switch is different. Never popped them out....

One note...picky, but it needs to be made.  The conventional twist on wire nuts have proven to be high unreliable as they tend to loosen when you drive a MH.  Someone said it was like you house being in an Earthquake of Magnitude 4.5 or so when driving. Monaco used the Crimp On butt splices. A ratchetting crimping tool works better and is much more reliable than just a pair of the cheap "pliers" type. Those better ratchetting tools sell on Amazon below $30 or so. Many of our members carry a lot of electrical supplies and such and most have a pair of them in their "gotta fix this".  I do.  I have had 4 or 5 of Monaco's splices fail....so I know first hand.

Thanks again for the post.  Keep us updated on how they work or last.

5 minutes ago, JohnC3 said:

I just replaced the florescent bulbs with LED 12v replacements. It meant I needed to take each fixture down and rewire it so it didn't use a ballast. It was pretty simple and has been working well for 2 years now. To replace all my interior lights (fluorescent and incandescent) was about 200. I have only had 1 led bulb go bad in 2 years.

I found the LED replacements were often available in warm white, instead of the cold white of the fluorescents.  I like the warmer light better.

You did a nice replacement job, your fixtures look very professional.

John

Making an assumption.  You used the 12 VDC ones, like Lowe's carries.  You then rewired the existing end caps and never took apart the fixtures. I plan to do that if mine start to act up. My fixtures are totally pop riveted so that it is a major disassembly to get inside them...

We MAY or MAY NOT have the same fixtures....Monaco, you know.  LOL.  I had planned on using the Monaco 12 VDC and if it ran straight to the side switch, splice or connect there and rewire the ends.  Did not want to tear into the fixtures and the old ballasts could stay there.  Other wise....Drill a hole in the top and through to the bottom reflector. Put in a Grommet on each hole....then run the two leads down and rewire without disassembly.

Comment if you can.

Thanks,

[blackanodize]

13 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

wow,

That looks great. Could you post the brand of the original OEM Fixtures.  Monaco used several and it would help folks. if you knew the size of them, that also helped.  Mine are fully "self contained. You can't get inside to the ballast or do any work.  You have to drill out the pop rivets....  Mine look similar except the switch is different. Never popped them out....

One note...picky, but it needs to be made.  The conventional twist on wire nuts have proven to be high unreliable as they tend to loosen when you drive a MH.  Someone said it was like you house being in an Earthquake of Magnitude 4.5 or so when driving. Monaco used the Crimp On butt splices. A ratchetting crimping tool works better and is much more reliable than just a pair of the cheap "pliers" type. Those better ratchetting tools sell on Amazon below $30 or so. Many of our members carry a lot of electrical supplies and such and most have a pair of them in their "gotta fix this".  I do.  I have had 4 or 5 of Monaco's splices fail....so I know first hand.

Thanks again for the post.  Keep us updated on how they work or last.

Making an assumption.  You used the 12 VDC ones, like Lowe's carries.  You then rewired the existing end caps and never took apart the fixtures. I plan to do that if mine start to act up. My fixtures are totally pop riveted so that it is a major disassembly to get inside them...

We MAY or MAY NOT have the same fixtures....Monaco, you know.  LOL.  I had planned on using the Monaco 12 VDC and if it ran straight to the side switch, splice or connect there and rewire the ends.  Did not want to tear into the fixtures and the old ballasts could stay there.  Other wise....Drill a hole in the top and through to the bottom reflector. Put in a Grommet on each hole....then run the two leads down and rewire without disassembly.

Comment if you can.

Thanks,

I am not sure the brand of the original light fixtures.  My plan was not to gut them out but I need something to screw the new lights into.  I typically don't use wire nuts but that was the way the old fixtures were wired in when I took them down minus the very front one. 

 

[StephenW]

Nice looking replacement job!  The DW likes the new look of the fixtures and I now have a new project.  Thanks for the great idea and the link to the parts.

Edited August 10, 2022 by StephenW

[Jobert]

At Walmart, they have a direct replacement LED bulb for the fluorescent fixtures, as long as your ballast is good.  No modification necessary. They were available in both daylight and bright white. I was replacing bulbs continuously and since replacing with the LED bulbs, have gone about 3 years so far with no replacements.  Hope this may help.  Happy trails, Bert

[diverdown204]

Do you have a part number for the bulbs at Walmart?  Thank you! 

[Tom Cherry]

On 1/3/2023 at 11:19 AM, Jobert said:

At Walmart, they have a direct replacement LED bulb for the fluorescent fixtures, as long as your ballast is good.  No modification necessary. They were available in both daylight and bright white. I was replacing bulbs continuously and since replacing with the LED bulbs, have gone about 3 years so far with no replacements.  Hope this may help.  Happy trails, Bert

Make SURE you read the fine print.  Several of these LED “tubes” require specific ballasts…as in an “Electronic” type.  I called the vendor that made my fixtures (2008) and talked to the Tech Support…as well as “the engineer that had been around for a long time”.  My ballasts are magnetic.  I wondered when the tubes did a “two level” start up.  I had updated some ballasts for our church from Magnetic (old style) to Electronic.  The results were interesting. One side of the room came on instantly, the new electronic ones, but the other side came on low, blink, then high.

Perhaps they have developed an LED that will work on the old ones.  I posted earlier…. Would be great if there is an LED replacement tube that works on older ones.  But the good news, the ones that I tested, can be directly wired…but you have to get power prior to the ballast…and mine are popped riveted and I didn’t want to disassemble unless the ballast goes south.

Could you post the brand, model, etc.? Thanks.

EDIT….this old thread gives a lot of insight….I thought I had  found the solution two years ago….but realized that the Lowes tubes were not compatible.  So, just passing on….my knowledge is a bit scarce, but from doing a lot of facility work and the comments…odds are most of our OEM fixtures were not electronic or rapid start….so a good working replacement specifically for Magnetic ballasts would be a great find…

 

[Raymc1027]

I replaced all of our fluorescent tubes with LEDs in our 2002 HR Endeavor. The tubes I used required wiring around the ballasts so they are straight 12v. Easy to do and the light output is great. I ordered all of my stuff from Amazon. 

[Jobert]

The ones I purchased had the following info on them. 

Great Value

15 watt 9 actually used

900 lumens   non-dimming

Daylight 5000K

 

I used the daylight bulbs in 3 original fixtures over the sink and hallway and shower area, and used warm white in the small bathroom/sink area.  They were a direct replacement with no rewiring and no ballast changes or anything like that.  I just put them in and away they went.  These were so much brighter and better than the originals, with no warm-up time or anything.  They have been in for over 2 years of full-time use now.  At the time, they were priced comparably with the regular florescent bulbs.  Easily have paid for themselves in not replacing florescent bulbs often.

Hope this may help.  Happy Trails Bert

[LarryD]

On 9/4/2023 at 12:43 PM, Jobert said:

The ones I purchased had the following info on them. 

Great Value

15 watt 9 actually used

900 lumens   non-dimming

Daylight 5000K

 

I used the daylight bulbs in 3 original fixtures over the sink and hallway and shower area, and used warm white in the small bathroom/sink area.  They were a direct replacement with no rewiring and no ballast changes or anything like that.  I just put them in and away they went.  These were so much brighter and better than the originals, with no warm-up time or anything.  They have been in for over 2 years of full-time use now.  At the time, they were priced comparably with the regular florescent bulbs.  Easily have paid for themselves in not replacing florescent bulbs often.

Hope this may help.  Happy Trails Bert

Can you by chance provide a link? 

Thanks Larry

[Jobert]

I think this is the one.  I bought them right off the shelf in Walmart a couple of years ago.  They were 1" or so by the 18" and came in daylight and soft white.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-LED-Light-Bulb-7W-15W-Equivalent-T8-T12-Replacement-Lamp-G13-Base-Non-Dimmable-Daylight-18-inches-1-Pack/836197962?athbdg=L1600&from=/search

I will probably go there today or tomorrow and will check to see if they are carrying them on the shelf. I don't think I have the packaging any more, but I will check. There is no numbers on the bulb itself. Hope this may help.  Happy Trails Bert

[LarryD]

10 hours ago, Jobert said:

I think this is the one.  I bought them right off the shelf in Walmart a couple of years ago.  They were 1" or so by the 18" and came in daylight and soft white.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-LED-Light-Bulb-7W-15W-Equivalent-T8-T12-Replacement-Lamp-G13-Base-Non-Dimmable-Daylight-18-inches-1-Pack/836197962?athbdg=L1600&from=/search

I will probably go there today or tomorrow and will check to see if they are carrying them on the shelf. I don't think I have the packaging any more, but I will check. There is no numbers on the bulb itself. Hope this may help.  Happy Trails Bert

I ordered 8 tonight.  Thanks 

[06Windsor]

On 11/26/2023 at 7:56 PM, LarryD said:

I ordered 8 tonight.  Thanks 

 

On 11/26/2023 at 9:52 AM, Jobert said:

I think this is the one.  I bought them right off the shelf in Walmart a couple of years ago.  They were 1" or so by the 18" and came in daylight and soft white.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-LED-Light-Bulb-7W-15W-Equivalent-T8-T12-Replacement-Lamp-G13-Base-Non-Dimmable-Daylight-18-inches-1-Pack/836197962?athbdg=L1600&from=/search

I will probably go there today or tomorrow and will check to see if they are carrying them on the shelf. I don't think I have the packaging any more, but I will check. There is no numbers on the bulb itself. Hope this may help.  Happy Trails Bert

I have used these as well in both of my motorhomes and they have work great for several years now. the only thing is it don't update the old out dated figures lol. 

[heathbus]

I also have used the Leisure Coachworks lights in areas where there is no control of the light using a wall mounted light switch.  If you used the same model of light, then I assume you need to leave the wall switch turned on all the time and then turn each light on/off using the controls on the lights.  If this is not the case (use the light switch on the light) how do you turn them on/off?

[heathbus]

Leisure lights told me and I proved it to be true that once you turn on one of their lights and set the brightness level you can turn them off and on from a single light switch and the leisure lights will come on at the same brightness you left them set at.  I now have them installed in both continuous power and switched power locations in my coach.

[Tom Cherry]

Wonder how they will or will not work with members who have the Intellitec MPX system where you can dim via the pulsed signal from the system....??

[jimc99999]

My 97 Windsor doesn't have any fancy light controls or dimmers, just switches. So to replace the flourescents I just got some 12V LED stick-on strip from Amazon, removed the bulbs and ballasts, and added 1-4 stick-on strips, depending on how much light I wanted at that fixture. So far the basic wire nuts have been fine for 3 years full-timing, a couple years mostly in storage, and 40K miles.  The LED strips have been pretty reliable, the 3000K light is nice and consistent, but I've had to replace a couple of the strips over the years because I'm very sensitive to flickering lights. 

[Jobert]

On our 06 Dynasty with the multiplex system, the fluorescent fixtures controlled by the multiplex are on/off and not dimming.  I have 3 controlled by the multiplex and two controlled by the switch on the fixture. For us, that has worked just fine. All the little round fixtures in the ceiling have the bulbs replaced with dim-able LED inserts from eBay and they have worked fine also.  They dim and hold there setting during off/on cycles. Hope this may help.  Happy Trails Bert

[Martinvz]

I am reacting to Tom’s earlier posts re the use of the wire nuts. 
Does anyone have experience with using the WAGO style wire connectors in a coach as replacement of the wire nuts?

https://www.amazon.com/LEVER-NUTS-Compact-Splicing-Connector-Assortment/dp/B0957T1S9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_6_sspa?keywords=wire+connectors&qid=1704475135&sr=8-6-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfbXRm&psc=1

[cbr046]

2 hours ago, Martinvz said:

Does anyone have experience with using the WAGO style wire connectors in a coach as replacement of the wire nuts?

https://www.amazon.com/LEVER-NUTS-Compact-Splicing-Connector-Assortment/dp/B0957T1S9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_6_sspa?keywords=wire+connectors&qid=1704475135&sr=8-6-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfbXRm&psc=1

One of the negative Amazon reviewers wrote "These clamp the wire well, but the wire rotates freely while clamped. They only clamp the wire at a small pinch point. Not an optimal way to transfer load current."  I'd be leery of using them in any kind of medium or high current connection.  Also, they may work well at first but may also oxidize that "small pinch point" over time, especially with solid conductors.  Remember:  Resistance x Current = Heat.  Just MHO.

- bob

[Bill R]

7 hours ago, Martinvz said:

I am reacting to Tom’s earlier posts re the use of the wire nuts. 
Does anyone have experience with using the WAGO style wire connectors in a coach as replacement of the wire nuts?

https://www.amazon.com/LEVER-NUTS-Compact-Splicing-Connector-Assortment/dp/B0957T1S9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_6_sspa?keywords=wire+connectors&qid=1704475135&sr=8-6-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfbXRm&psc=1

I use WAGO connectors for 12 gauge or smaller stranded wire connections or a stranded wire and solid copper wire connection.  Stranded wires may not give a good connection when using wire nuts.  If it is only solid copper wires I have no problem using a wire nut.   Whether wire nut or WAGO connection I will wrap the connection in electrical tape.  Again, only for 12 gauge or smaller wire.

Edited January 6 by Bill R