Wildwood Posted August 12, 2022 Share Posted August 12, 2022 Asked this on IRV2 but thought I might have luck here…We are picking up our 2009 Beaver Patriot Thunder and have so many questions…here is one that we are curious about. Does anyone on here know how many 2009 Patriot Thunders were built in 2009, we are thinking not very many? Inquiring minds… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted August 12, 2022 Share Posted August 12, 2022 I only saw ONE....and it was a beauty. I helped the owner solve some petty problem. Actually met him in New Brunswick on our first major trip out. FWIW.... If the Beaver has the Chassis Multiplex System....I would be hesitant. There have been several post here and the potential for issues is complex....and the parts are obsolete and not readily available....and "Salvaged Parts" are questionable....as they cannot, I think, be tested...until you purchase and install. To sum up a comment that was made from one of our resident experts....to another member, offline, when he was considering trading up for a Chassis Multiplex upper end... "Do NOT walk away from this one....RUN, RUN....RUN for your life". Forgive my candidness and we do have many here that understand it and often, off line provide the support.... But it was a feature added, circa 2009 to the Dynasties....and might have been on the upper ends (Executives, Signatures....and perhaps the Patriots) much earlier. If you want additional information, you can PM me and I will get or forward you to an individual that has pictures of the BOX(es?)....so it is readily identifiable. NOW....many folks have never had an issue. But many have had major ones....and I know of several Electrical RV EXPERT Techs that will not work on them as they say..."It is a lost cause..." Curiosity and a "slow morning" is a curse. I googled Beaver Patriot Chassis Multiplex System. First HIT....read and also look at the MH's that the owners have. One was an older (2005) Patriot. Do your own due diligence.. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/all-mux-chassis-owners-412638.html Good Luck.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vito.a Posted August 12, 2022 Share Posted August 12, 2022 (edited) Tom is correct. In late 2008 (2009 model year) Monaco (which includes Beaver and Holiday Rambler) incorporated the Kongsberg CHASSIS multiplex system in large diesel coaches. The Kongsberg system took the place of the VIP Smart Wheel systems. It's easy to confuse the Kongsberg multiplex with the Intellitec multiplex system. However, they are completely different systems. The Intellitec multiplex is used on house systems like lights and shades. The Kongsberg system is used on chassis systems like wipers and headlights. The issue is Kongsberg refuses to support any of these systems. There is still good support for the Intellitec system. The Kongsberg system uses CCM modules part # 16623981 (Megatech # E0200B01). When these start having issues the coach can become undrivable in certain conditions (rain or evening). Even if you find the module it must be programmed for a specific coach. A friend with a beautiful 2009 Monaco coach actually sold it for an older coach because he could not find anyone to repair his Kongsberg system. Hope this helps your understanding. Edited August 12, 2022 by vito.a Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildwood Posted August 12, 2022 Author Share Posted August 12, 2022 Thanks for your description….but we are going to be picking up the rig next week pretty much a done deal, too late to “run”! Looks like we will be doing some extensive research on this topic to be better informed, I will add it to an already lengthy list of items we will need to understand better🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank McElroy Posted August 16, 2022 Share Posted August 16, 2022 I looked at pictures of a few 2009 Patriot Thunder coaches for sale and everyone I see is a chassis multiplex coach. Before completing the delivery, it would be a very good idea to be sure all the switches on the drivers and passenger side dash actually work. Each gang of 3 switches are actually an electronic module and are part of the chassis multiplex system. All of these dash switch electronic modules are obsolete and basically impossible to find even from a salvage yard. These switch modules were originally made and custom programmed by Eaton for Monaco. Eaton no longer manufactures or has the ability to program E30 Master or Slave switch modules. The switch modules are very sensitive to moisture and low battery voltage. Be very careful when leaving the drivers side window open and don't let your house batteries go dead. Yes, that's right, the house batteries (not the chassis batteries) power the dash switches and dash instrument cluster on a chassis multiplex coach. A number of folks have had problems with the smart wheel (steering wheel) control switches not working because of a failed 5 VDC supply internal to the front CCM that is used to power the smart wheel controls. A $20 external voltage supply has solved this issue for many folks on our forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildwood Posted August 16, 2022 Author Share Posted August 16, 2022 Thank you VERY much as we are set to final inspect and pick up tomorrow if all checks out. We will be sure all switches and smart wheel and jake brake are working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank McElroy Posted August 16, 2022 Share Posted August 16, 2022 Past history shows some of the first failures are the driver's side window switch due to water getting on the switch module and the windshield wipers not working because of a bad 5 vdc supply from the front CCM in the front run bay under the driver's side window. If you see any switch modifications like an extra switch just for the driver's side window, it means that there has already been a problem. You also have a "rear" CCM that is located in the ceiling on the storage bay between the frame rails behind the front axle under the removable ceiling cover. This CCM controls the rear tail, brake and rear turn signal lights. If also controls the AC condenser fan motor located just behind the front axle. Make sure all these items work in your inspection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildwood Posted August 16, 2022 Author Share Posted August 16, 2022 Thanks to all for the great advice…Well she’s ours now for the 1200 mile trip back home… Good news all switches and gauges are currently working🤞they stay that way(for awhile) Everything checked out except one thing a front air compressor is cycling about every 20 seconds when parked?? Thinking air leak but, it was recently checked and no leak was found according to invoice from repair shop. So will have to work on that one but so excited. Kissed a million frogs hoping this one is the prince! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted August 16, 2022 Share Posted August 16, 2022 NICE..... The front compressor is controlled by a Viair 90 - 120 PSI switch. The function is that it will come on when the MH's air (brakes....) gets below 90 Psi and shut off at 120. Don't know about the display or gages or the onboard monitoring system (Alladin?) or whatever. As long as you consistently have air, on both systems or tanks, that stays above 100 PSI (I have a digital driver's display) then you are good to go. Find the fuse and disconnect it. OR....look under and up in front of the step or from the Genny compartment and find the switch. It will be on a air line with two wires going to it. Pull one lead off. That disables it and then you can work on it when you have time. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PH80PI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The above the the OEM switch that Monaco used on all the Oregon production. ASSUME that you have a similar switch on your Aux Compressor. Mine was bad from the factory. IF you have an air leak....it would be showing up in the gages. WHO knows....but the above is a work around to keep you from being driven crazy....read the manual about the Aux compressor.... GOOD LUCK... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildwood Posted August 16, 2022 Author Share Posted August 16, 2022 Great advice…air levels are staying good… Only cycling for a couple seconds not long enough to do anything… will not only drive us crazy while parked, but neighbors would get an ear full too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank McElroy Posted August 16, 2022 Share Posted August 16, 2022 20 minutes ago, Wildwood said: Thanks to all for the great advice…Well she’s ours now for the 1200 mile trip back home… Good news all switches and gauges are currently working🤞they stay that way(for awhile) Everything checked out except one thing a front air compressor is cycling about every 20 seconds when parked?? Thinking air leak but, it was recently checked and no leak was found according to invoice from repair shop. So will have to work on that one but so excited. Kissed a million frogs hoping this one is the prince! Until you fix the aux air compressor air leak, remove the 20 amp circuit breaker VCA10 located in the FRB front run bay. It is located on the large PCB. This will shut off the compressor. Just auto level the coach when parked and turn off the power gear leveling system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildwood Posted August 16, 2022 Author Share Posted August 16, 2022 Will do thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildwood Posted August 16, 2022 Author Share Posted August 16, 2022 Fasten your seatbelts…here come the questions… Seller had new Toyo tires put on which is great, however the trip tek keeps coming on the screen with a low tire pressure warning we have to keep hitting view to clear it, we checked and tires are fine. Is there any way to not see that think they did not remove old sensors? What to do? can they still be reprogrammed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amphi_sc Posted August 20, 2022 Share Posted August 20, 2022 (edited) On 8/16/2022 at 12:24 PM, Wildwood said: Great advice…air levels are staying good… Only cycling for a couple seconds not long enough to do anything… will not only drive us crazy while parked, but neighbors would get an ear full too! If it runs for a couple seconds vs 20-25 seconds I'm thinking check valve and pressure switch in wrong order. i.e. compressor, switch, check valve, ping tank thus leak in compressor drops pressure on short line turning compressor on which quickly repressurizes line and pump turns off. If pressure switch between ping tank and check valve then ping tank needs to drop and takes longer to rebuild pressure. Just guessing. One more thought for a very short run time could be bad brushes in the motor. Another thing I did was to install a 30 amp relay and upgraded wire gauge direct electric source to the pump to avoid voltage drop that is hard on the pump brushes. Original circuit just energizes the relay now. BTW, be careful with leveling control pad and moisture from driver's open window. It doesn't like getting damp at all. I have a '07 built 9/06 PT Winchester III Edited August 20, 2022 by amphi_sc One more thought Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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