Water getting past closed valves.

[96 EVO]

3 closed valves!

I gave up on the Dometic ice-maker a couple of years ago. Shutoff valve in wet bay, manual valve behind fridge, auto valve behind fridge. All closed, and still getting some water at ice-maker.

How is that even possible ?

[Dr4Film]

Remove one of the lines and install a cap-plug at the end. The easiest would probably be the one at the Manobloc.

[96 EVO]

No Manobloc on the Scepter / Camelot.

[Dr4Film]

You posted that you had a shut-off in the wet bay so I thought you were taking about the Manobloc as that's where mine is located.

Goto the shut-off in the wet bay, disconnect the line and install a cap plug on the end. No more water going to the ice maker.

[96 EVO]

It's just a 1/4 turn valve on the fridge water supply line down there. Guess I'll have to remove it and cap the line like you say.

I'm just amazed that 3 valves on the same line can all leak bye! The auto fill valve was replaced by myself, just a few years ago!

[Tom Cherry]

Plug the outlet line of the valve in the outside refrigerator vent.  Later on, if you need it, you can cut off the rubber line and put a new one on….  Mine works OK, but I do use it to turn on and off the .Samsung Res Refer.

I need mine as I winterize to clean out the water when I blow it out as well as rinse out the RV antifreeze.

Memory says that the valve is mounted on a shelf.  That shelf will have to come out if you upgrade to most any Res Refer.  When that is done, I would have a new fitting crumpled on to the rubber line and extend it up.  The alternative, since it is low flow.  Cap for NOW.  Make up a short adapter from the faulty valve to a new valve as an option or fix when or if you upgrade.

[96 EVO]

15 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

  That shelf will have to come out if you upgrade to most any Res Refer.  

Don't even want to think about that right now.

I'm in the process of installing a new ARP fridge defend right now.

[Tom Cherry]

7 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Don't even want to think about that right now.

I'm in the process of installing a new ARP fridge defend right now.

Understand.  BUT, the Dometic is on a shelf, that is why there is a drawer under your Dometic.  Most just put in the Samsung and you have to cut off the front piece and remove the drawer.  Then the floor or the "shelf" as I call it must be cut out so that the new refrigerator will fit.  If your new refrigerator fits on the floor or the shelf, then you do NOT have access to underneath the refrigerator floor to the actual slide floor.  Therefore, CAP for now.  If you have enough hose, then cut off and recrimp a fitting or a valve....otherwise leave as is and if you decide to use an icemaker or have to get water out, pull out the cap.

Good Luck.  Please post some pictures if you do this without pulling out the Dometic floor.  That was the usual route and folks have issues with other models as there is a furnace problem and would LOVE to know how to get around it.  THAT WOULD BE GREAT.

 

[96 EVO]

On 8/22/2022 at 11:14 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Plug the outlet line of the valve in the outside refrigerator vent.  Later on, if you need it, you can cut off the rubber line and put a new one on….  Mine works OK, but I do use it to turn on and off the .Samsung Res Refer.

 

Took your advice and capped the valve behind the fridge. Also got my ARP Fridge Defend installed.

Now I'll be even more amazed if I find a block of ice around the ice-maker fill box, in a week or two!

[96 EVO]

Ha, So, if anyone has been silly enough to be following this saga, yes, I'm still slowly making ice even with the valve capped!

Turns out, some brilliant EE, decided this fridge needed to have two sets of wires, connectors, enter the back of the freezer compartment, then exit through the same hole they came in! This electrical box is mounted directly above the ice-maker inlet tube. So, warm moist air from the top rear of the back of the fridge is entering the freezer around these wires, condensing in the small electrical box, and drip drip, till it has made you a tray and a half of ice, even with your ice-maker turned off, or, full of ice!

I've stuffed butyl tape around the wires / hole, and will monitor it for drips for a day. If no more drips, I'll put the ice-maker back into service.

Wife liked it working, but, I couldn't deal with a big wall of ice back there when ice cubes weren't being used as fast as they were made, or, if we weren't using the coach, but the fridge was left on with the ice-maker turned off!