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Slide out Wood Facial removal


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Been there…had that done twice.  They are put on with “pins” as a buddy carpenter calls them.  The are small gage (non headed) nails from a finishing ail gun.  Most nail guns (finishing) will drive either.  Start at one end.  Put a thin putty knife under the side edge and gently pry up.  Sometimes the nail will come out with the trim, other times, it stays attached. Typically a “hooked” end (nicer one….not the cheap junk) will work.  A thin “pry” bar will work.

Once you get both sides of the molding loose….there may only be a single pin or maybe on on each side, you use a normal pry bar and work your way down, gently, to the next set or individual pin…easier then.  Keep going until you reach the end. You will not be able to reattach using the old pins.  Need a nail gun.  Some enterprising folks have used high bond 3M tape for short pieces….but not best practice.

 

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Tom has the right tool and idea. My technicians start at the top and slowly work down. My interior technician is a master at it. He has never damaged a piece of trim work. He works slowly and methodically. Do not twist the board or pry at an uneven angle. Use a straight out motion. The wood can crack and break if you start using uneven prying motions that twist the wood at weird angles.

Patience is a virtue and if you use patience while removing them you wont damage the woodwork. Re-attach using a brad nailer. I would not recommend using VHB 3M 2 sided tape. This tape has amazing grip power and the wood may crack if ever removed again. 3M VHB tape is a permanent tape used for body trim, etc.

Good luck.

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The trim on our 2007 Executive was held in place with 4" Black Industrial grade Velcro. It takes a good deal of pulling while experienceing a high level of resistance from the Velcro, but the trim does come off. Alignment when re installing it is crutial.

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