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Hello everyone,

I am thinking I need a new radiator on my rig. I have a 2000 dynasty with 103,000 miles. It runs (cools) just fine when the outside temps are below 80 degrees. 
 

However, if the temps are higher and we are climbing hills, I watch the temps on my silver leaf rise to over 210+ and the “chirping” noise starts and the “high water temp” lights up.  It has been happening more and more often. When I first got the rig - it never happened- now I watch the heat carefully- downshift early, etc to keep the heat levels down .

I have sprayed the radiator out the best I can several times - doesn’t seem to help…. I just figure after 22 years the cooling channels are no longer as efficient. 
 

I will be in Oregon soon, so I called Source Engineering, they wanted to verify the radiator number on the build sheet is the actual one that was installed before they order it. They said there is a tag on the radiator.

Does anyone know where to find the tag and what it looks like? 
 

Should I also have the CAC replaced at the same time, what about the transmission cooler?

 

Thanks

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I suppose you keep the RPM up by downshifting up hill to keep the circulation through radiator. Lagging engine gets hotter. Along with the fan spinning as it should like Ray noted, it just does not sound right with no leaks and clean rad and coolant. 

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31 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Have you made sure the fan is turning as fast as it should?   When your temp is up like that and with any engine speed at all the fan should really blow hard.

Our coaches depend solely on the fan unlike a truck or car.

Yes I believe the fan is turning properly. 
 

when I startup the fan is barely turning. When I stop when traveling (engine temp 185 or so - it is really blowing).  It sounds really loud when the engine is hot.

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I have read on recent post that if your fan blade has dirt build up it changes the pitch of the blade and does not move the air across the radiator properly.  It might be worth looking at.

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Hey Rocketman yeah i understand needing to replace the radiator, source is how i got mine. My question is are you going to replace it or are you having it done? If your doing it, be preparrd! I did mine an it was challanging, that said when i did i replaced the thermostat, hoses, water pump, and had the alternator rebuilt. I also performrd some upgrades like cutting a 4x2 in hole in the bottom of the fan shroud that i put a cover over it so if i had too i could reach in an pull stuff out of it if i needed to. PLUS, i cut the heater hose 3ft back from the block on each hose an installed two ball valves so incase there ever was a heater core failure i could close off each one and still be able to drive the coach. AS FOR THE TAG your looking for i struggled too, i found it AFTER the radiator was replaced. Where i found it was on the radiator shroud, when i was in the hole under the closet it was on the top left of the shroud, covered in years of dirt. Before i found the tag jim from Source had me measure the old radiator and it worked out ok. He says that though the new radiator requires some modification on the shroud, i had to measure twice an cut once, then put the radiator in an remove it to finish triming the hole. Its not a single man operation. ALSO, my coach runs SOO much cooler!E8448AA6-0F8F-4C72-A0A1-BD9B8C46A32F.thumb.jpeg.d8bd4a2937a75fb71fbf9fcca070dc67.jpeg7783C687-2E35-4E8C-A7E6-84ECA33EC67F.thumb.jpeg.05b0c7a93857a7a0282f0f07ff0d66d3.jpegF8F6547E-F633-4CE4-ADAA-386117A53546.thumb.jpeg.5a4077b407ad1ef63eeed6efd0739e48.jpeg7970DD43-97EC-4E10-8E57-DF11E9C5D9D9.thumb.jpeg.cba99bc762e0222e7bcbe61328eeed85.jpeg

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When having a new or rebuilt radiator replaced, ALWAYS check the CAC for leaks because chances are the CAC will need to be re-cored or replaced also.

Your transmission cooler may very well be part of the radiator. Mine is in the Windsor that was replaced back in 2015.

Edited by Dr4Film
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I had Source do mine earlier this year.

CAC was leaking and decided to do both CAC and radiator, also had them do the wax valve.

Mine was getting up to 225 both engine and trans.

Made a big difference, not cheap but IMO needed to be done.  Unless outside air is 95-100 climbing grades in lower gears rarely see 210 in either engine or trans.

Ron

2006 Camelot

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You can check you fan cooling system pretty quick.  I was having trouble with mine and contacted Monaco Tech support in 2015 (this was when you could call and talk to someone who knew what they were doing). 

The told me to remove the 2 lines going to the thermovalve.

  1.  Plugged both lines and the fan should run wide open. 
  2.  Then put a union in between both hoses and the fan should run at an idle.

If it does and you determine the fan isn't performing as the description in you manual has then it is probably the thermovalve.

My fan was running WAO as soon as the thermostat opened and never slowed down.  Sounded like a jet plane.  Replaced the thermovalve and all is good. 

 

When I replaced my radiator back in 2015 I went with a CG&J model.  What a mistake.  It started to seep last year (this was only with 2 long trips using it).  I also noticed that my transmission was running high temps and pretty much determined it was the oil cooler in the radiator.  I contacted CG&J and they couldn't confirm they put the same size oil cooler in it.   I decided to add an secondary cooler and it solved my problem.    So IMHO stay away from CG&J

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21 hours ago, Rocketman3 said:

However, if the temps are higher and we are climbing hills, I watch the temps on my silver leaf rise to over 210+ and the “chirping” noise starts and the “high water temp” lights up.  It has been happening more and more often. When I first got the rig - it never happened- now I watch the heat carefully- downshift early, etc to keep the heat levels down .

Michael - If your issue is that you only have experienced climbing temps over the years I would suggest to check all the PM issues first, many already suggested by others, and maybe you have.

1) Analysis of Coolant Fluid.

2) Check Hydraulic Fan operation. (Fan blade condition, thermovalve, fan speed, etc)

3) Clean/Flush radiator, new coolant

4) New Thermostat, and hoses if needed.

I did these and saw a drastic improvement.  Rig temps previously would climb to 205F.  But after doing all the PM, temps no longer get above 195F and drop quickly to 180F when they do, even on days up to 110F outside this past summer in Texas.  I have to admit I have not tested on long steep grades, but there was a definite improvement.

These are all a lot easier and less expensive if you are not showing any other radiator issues like a leak or loss of coolant.

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