Jump to content

Recommended tools for performing annual maintenance?


Recommended Posts

I'm gearing up to complete my annual maintenance soon and was looking for some expert advice on my equipment choices.

For oil changes, I've ordered a HP 12v pump, plan is to pump oil from a 5gallon pail into the engine. Also going to order a quick-release drain plug so I can control the flow easily, ideally directly into another empty 5gal pail.

Quick-release Oil Drain Plug

image.png.8505d095bea6a3cf2bf2f0a9ca1e3493.png

Any concerns?

 

For chassis lube, I've heard good things about the LockNLube grease nozzle. Anyone here use one?

image.png.05957984073cdf4c2d25a2f688ec116e.png

Will this nozzle-head fit all the zirks on my 97 Roadmaster RR8S chassis, or am I going to need a smaller head also?

Would a cheap-o model be just as good? I figure by the time I pay for the cheap one and add the LockNLube tip I might as well just buy the LockNLube gun.

image.png.fba6cbed27b7d94b51cf8da58cf447d6.png

Pistol grip vs lever?

Going to go with this drain pan, right combination of smallish size for storing in my 2 car garage and able to hold 4 gals. Want to be able to use it for transmission also, will this be wide enough to swap the built-in filters on my Allison 3060? Or will I need to do one filter at a time?

image.thumb.png.cbf3989e89ec02e2e9b723f0d6234376.png

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just drain my oil into a 5 gallon bucket.  I put a plastic garbage bag in the bucket and when all the oil is drained out I pull up the plastic bag, twist the top of it and tie it off, that way I can slide it out from underneath and it doesn't slosh out.   It fits all the oil in my  oil pan.  I can then easily transport to the county drop station where they take the oil and the filters.  

I have an end that fits on a gallon jug with a flexible end, I can use this to put oil in at the oil fill/timing cover.  Works pretty good and I can carry it in the coach if I have to add oil later.   One thing I've learned is that I put in the specified amount of oil it will burn it until it gets down about 2 quarts and then doesn't burn it anymore.  So I put in 2 quarts shy and all is good, doesn't burn any and I don't have to add. 

I recently bought one of the quick lock coupler end https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VXQC5QZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've used it to grease my tractor, front end loader and backhoe and I was surprised at how well it locked onto the zerk fitting.  I was able to pressurize some that in the past were a pain.     I think that it will fit onto most of the zerks but there may be clearance problems on a couple.  Plan to do a lube job in the coming weeks so I'll know for sure what it will fit.

One thing that I carry in the coach is a medium size mortar mixing pan that I bought at Lowes.  Anytime I'm working on something that may result in a spill it place it underneath.  Fuel filters are a good example.   Working on any hydraulic component is another. 

I bought a good HD strap wrench that I use for my oil filters and dryer.  Bought it at the Peterbilt shop down the road from me.  Works great and if needed I have a small cheater pipe if the filters are tight.   They make different styles but I simply asked the Peterbilt shop what they recommended and went with it. 

Edited by jacwjames
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would Never Use a easy oil drain plug because if I would go over a curb or such type of raised something in my path that might snatch off the drain plug, I would loose all the oil on the crank case.  I would also be responsible for the clean up.  There are a lot of Jiffy Lube type dealers for trucks that can change the oil for a reasonable price.  JMHO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Used to use the regular pump action grease gun but I bought a compressor driven grease gun and it makes things a lot easier. No repetitive pumping in difficult locations just hold, pull the trigger and watch the joints ooze. My rig holds 6.5 gals?  I use 2 HomeDepot 5 gal buckets ($5 each)next to each other. No with no lid, the other, has a lid with a 1.5” hole at one edge to drop in and hold the funnel in place. Drain oil into open bucket at about 80% just move the funnel head into place and leave it to drain.  I do not trust oil, so I have a tarp on ground! Going to use Jim J bag trick. Luv it.  (Use the new oil bucket next oil change.) I’ve done this several times and sticking to rules works. Make sure filter seals are greased and never over tighten. Fill the main oil filter with oil then screw it in. Start and check for leaks.  Any suggestion welcome. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Rick A said:

Used to use the regular pump action grease gun but I bought a compressor driven grease gun and it makes things a lot easier. No repetitive pumping in difficult locations just hold, pull the trigger and watch the joints ooze. My rig holds 6.5 gals?  I use 2 HomeDepot 5 gal buckets ($5 each)next to each other. No with no lid, the other, has a lid with a 1.5” hole at one edge to drop in and hold the funnel in place. Drain oil into open bucket at about 80% just move the funnel head into place and leave it to drain.  I do not trust oil, so I have a tarp on ground! Going to use Jim J bag trick. Luv it.  (Use the new oil bucket next oil change.) I’ve done this several times and sticking to rules works. Make sure filter seals are greased and never over tighten. Fill the main oil filter with oil then screw it in. Start and check for leaks.  Any suggestion welcome. 

 

Rick, good list.  One caution when it comes to greasing the shaft on a TRW steering gearbox.  For that fitting do not use a compressed air grease gun.  Use only a hand operated grease gun.  The reason is that the higher pressures of an air grease gun could easily force grease past the internal shaft seal.  If this happens you'll contaminate the hydraulic fluid with grease.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought a lock and lube and I couldn't get enough clearance around the head and zert when greasing the U-Joints. I use a hand pump grease gun for that. I did buy a Dewalt 20 V grease gun and that thing is awesome. I have so many things to grease besides the coach - Farm tractor and implements, Kubota RTV, trailer bearings, etc. I order Mobil grease by the case lots. The Dewalt grease gun is awesome. It isn't cheap but makes greasing so much quicker and easier. I also like the fact that since I have almost every 20 volt battery operated tool that Dewalt makes I can swap batteries. I have used the air grease guns but found running air hoses and a compressor ate up time. With the Dewalt grease gun I grab it, a tube of grease and a battery and can go anywhere on my property to grease equipment.

I do use the Lock and Lube on everything else except the U-Joint zerts. It works great and does lock on to the zerts. BTW, greasing anything is one of my least favorite things to do.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCGG571B-20-volt-Lithium-Grease/dp/B00G1X2HPG/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2HDPR4N36RNJW&keywords=dewalt+cordless+grease+gun&qid=1663070641&s=automotive&sprefix=Dewalt+grease+gun%2Cautomotive%2C677&sr=1-2

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you Frank. Excuse my ignorance, What’s is a TRW steering gearbox? I’m going have a look and see if that “steering gearbox” jumps out at me.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

Rick, good list.  One caution when it comes to greasing the shaft on a TRW steering gearbox.  For that fitting do not use a compressed air grease gun.  Use only a hand operated grease gun.  The reason is that the higher pressures of an air grease gun could easily force grease past the internal shaft seal.  If this happens you'll contaminate the hydraulic fluid with grease.

Here are a few pictures showing the grease fittings on the TRW gearbox case that should only be greased with a hand operated grease gun.

IMG_20170414_150220070.jpg

IMG_20170408_142904225.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

I'm curious, does the Shepperd ( I think that's the name ) steering gear have a grease zerk also?

Hmmmm

I have a manual for the Sheppard M100 and it actually has this in a couple places

IMPORTANT: If your steering gear was originally built
with a grease fitting in the bearing cap, remove the fitting
and fill the hole with RTV to prevent ingestion of
contaminants. No further lubrication is required.

I can't remember if mine has any zerk fittings, I'll check ASAP

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/12/2022 at 4:28 PM, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

I would Never Use a easy oil drain plug because if I would go over a curb or such type of raised something in my path that might snatch off the drain plug, I would loose all the oil on the crank case.  I would also be responsible for the clean up.  There are a lot of Jiffy Lube type dealers for trucks that can change the oil for a reasonable price.  JMHO.

I completely agree, I’m not concerned about jumping curbs but what I’m concerned about would be hitting a recap treed from a tire blow out that you couldn’t avoid, I’m not worried about the clean up, I’d be more concerned about losing an engine!

JMHO 2!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I purchased the other version of the EZ drain valve. They are not very substantial. I did a quick swap from drain plug to drain valve with oil in the pan. less than a 1/2 cup into drain pan. I then used a clear hose attached on the drain valve to fill empty 5 gal jugs. Once the pan was empty, I pulled the drain valve. another 1/2 quart maybe of oil came out due to the small ID of the valve being higher than the threads of the open hole. Replaced with the original drain plug. I don't have a drain pan big enough to hold the 5 gallons. used a plastic tub lined with HD trash bag for transmission oil. It is much "cleaner" but still a pain to scope out into gallon jugs. Maybe swapping the valve in is not the best way but made it easy to carry the 5 jugs to the auto parts for recycle of oil. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys these tips are invaluable.

So far I've picked up the 90-degree zerk connect fitting for grease gun (as well as the latch on fitting), moved to a hand-pump gun for single handed operation.

I'm also going to pick up a larger tray to put under/around my 5 gal pail when I drain to catch and spills and use for the tranny maintenance.

That battery powered grease gun looks great but this is the only vehicle I need to grease so can't justify the cost.

What's your favourite grease to use? I've heard about Red and Sticky but haven't seen that locally here in Canada.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/17/2022 at 6:45 AM, DennisZ said:

For those that are worrying about a valve that could get damaged, I use one of these, no external valve handle to flip open and very low profile protruding out of the pan.

https://www.femco.com/products/

I use the Femco and it works well and is a very high quality product. I had one on  my first coach and just installed on my 06.   I personally know a farmer who lost a diesel engine on a combine do to a lever  type being damaged and leaking out his engine oil. The Femco plug is very low profile as Dennis stated. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/18/2022 at 7:11 AM, rustykramermetalfab said:

I use the Femco and it works well and is a very high quality product. I had one on  my first coach and just installed on my 06.   I personally know a farmer who lost a diesel engine on a combine do to a lever  type being damaged and leaking out his engine oil. The Femco plug is very low profile as Dennis stated. 

With the Femco, if I wanted to stop flow to switch out my oil bucket, I would "unplug" the hose, then re-attach to start flow?  It doesn't start leaking oil all over the outside of the hose fitting as soon as it's inserted but before the outer lock ring seats?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Roadtripper  No it threads on and pushes a valve open. you can just back it off and it will slow the flow down or back it off to completely stop. You dont need to take it completely off to stop the flow. You will have residual oil in the tube of course.  I just always use a large piece of cardboard and or some pig mat. You will drip some but this is the best way I have ever found. The Fumoto type is ok but I have used them and some will drip.  The valve that is put into the pan has an oring to seal when it does not have the hose attached and the cap that covers it has two orings.  You will not have drips when clapped off. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...