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New A/C unit needed


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We are currently boondocking at Assateague Island and our rear A/C has an attitude. Keeps tripping the breaker. So I am going to update/replace both units since the front one is the original one. I have a couple questions….

1. Was planning on buying the Dometic Penguin 2 units?  What are you thoughts? Would you recommend something else that is felt to be better?

2. the rear unit was previously replaced and it has a new Dometic thermostat so that one should be cake.  The front one has the factory 5 button thermostat. Can you please recommend a thermostat that will work with a new unit and keep the functionality that the original one has to work with the Aquahot etc  

Thank you!

 

 

Edited by Chargerman
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We just replaced two older model dometic units with the High Capacity (15,000) btu heat pumps.   Both of these require the new dometic thermostat to operate as these were not compatable with our CCC 5 button thermostat.  You can purchase a new control board that is compatible with the 5 button, but good luck on finding them.  If both of the units you are replacing are controlled by one thermostat, then the new thermostat will work perfectly.   

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15 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Before I replaced them I would swap the rear breaker with the front to prove it's not a weak breaker.  Then maybe clean the coils outside on the roof.              Clogged condenser coils can cause it to draw hi amps.

Thanks 

I did already replace the breaker. No luck. On the last trip it was problematic and it it’s sounding “right” and the amp draw is clearly very high.  

7 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Good advice above.  I would use Dometic 15k BTU heat pumps in either Penguin II or Blizzard NXT.  Blizzard NXT is 350CFM but is 2" taller.  Couple these with a new Dometic CCC2 thermostat.  Check with PPL RV parts for availability.  

https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-appliances/air-conditioner

Thank you. I have seen that the Dometic Brisk 2 is consistently rated #1. It is taller than the Penguin II. Will the the Dometic CCC2 themostat provide the same functionality as the existing 5 button I have?

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I changed out both my older Dometic for the newer Penguin high capacity 15K btu units, bought them from PPL.  Since I would have needed a new thermostat anyway I decided to go with the Micro Air Easy Touch, it was plug and play and I like the ability to be able to check/change the thermostat with Bluetooth or Wifi. 

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1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

I changed out both my older Dometic for the newer Penguin high capacity 15K btu units, bought them from PPL.  Since I would have needed a new thermostat anyway I decided to go with the Micro Air Easy Touch, it was plug and play and I like the ability to be able to check/change the thermostat with Bluetooth or Wifi. 

Does the Micro Air thermostat allow for the different selections like the original such as heat pump, AC, furnace?  
I called Dometic today to get an understanding of the difference between the Penguin 15k and the 15k high capacity. Very surprising conversation. They said they do not make a true 15k unit 😳. They said the 15k unit is actually a 13.5k unit with a bigger fan.  Then I asked what the difference was between the 15k and the high capacity unit. They said it had a bigger fan.  They couldn’t actually tell me what the difference was between the 15k and the high capacity 15k. If you know the details of the difference please let me know. 

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14 hours ago, Chargerman said:

We are currently boondocking at Assateague Island and our rear A/C has an attitude. Keeps tripping the breaker. So I am going to update/replace both units since the front one is the original one. I have a couple questions….

1. Was planning on buying the Dometic Penguin 2 units?  What are you thoughts? Would you recommend something else that is felt to be better?

2. the rear unit was previously replaced and it has a new Dometic thermostat so that one should be cake.  The front one has the factory 5 button thermostat. Can you please recommend a thermostat that will work with a new unit and keep the functionality that the original one has to work with the Aquahot etc  

Thank you!

 

 

Do you have the Intellitec AESS module that “swaps” power between the W/D and the Rear AC?  If so, were you using the WD when the breaker tripped?  Even if if you were not using the WD and DO have the AESS, I would disconnect the AESS and wire nut the input and the AC ….thus eliminating the AESS and test it. We have had allot of issues with them.  In addition, reseat the breaker again.  Then pull the cover off the junction box where the AC line and the control module is connected.  A loose or high resistance connection would cause a high load.  Assume the starting capacitor was checked.

Maybe in the AC, but there are many links before the AC gets to the motor….even inside the control module.  The final test would be to swap modules.  Just make sure that each’s DIP switches are reconfigured for their location.

GOOD LUCK….keep us posted.

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10 hours ago, Chargerman said:

Does the Micro Air thermostat allow for the different selections like the original such as heat pump, AC, furnace?  

When I installed my AC's I had to change the dip switches on the control board in the AC.  This is what the thermostat recognizes, in my case I have a furnace that is wired through the front (zone 2) AC.  I just plugged the communication cable into thermostat and it worked.   Downloaded the App onto my phone and set up the thermostat on my phone but it did take me a little while to figure out Bluethooth connectivity and getting the Wifi set up but finally got it to work. 

On the screen  you have a choice as to the mode, (AC, Heat Pump, Furnace)  plus can have Automatic fan or High, Medium, Low. 

I'm sitting in my easy chair as I type and picked up my phone and checked the AC's in my coach parked in my garage,  I can turn it off/on with the tap of the screen, change the temps etc.  I used this feature last winter to make sure the temps in the RV were staying above 40F, I had a small heater in the LR & my wet bay heater and tank pads activated.    Pretty handy. 

When I was coming back from a trip last Nov got pretty cold.  I decided not to set the furnace to come on but waited until it got cold enough inside to have it come on, reached up under my covers, grabbed the phone and turned the furnace on to warm it up a little. 

When I was in TX when I left the RV I didn't have the AC set but the temps got pretty high so I accessed the thermostat, which shows the outside temps ~90F, and I turned on the front AC.  When I got back the inside of the coach was 75F.  Not bad.

Plus another added feature is that you can set up the thermostat to send alerts, too hot or too cold.  Haven't used that feature but I can see it being handy since my wife travels with dogs and is always concerned. 

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11 hours ago, Chargerman said:


I called Dometic today to get an understanding of the difference between the Penguin 15k and the 15k high capacity. Very surprising conversation. They said they do not make a true 15k unit 😳. They said the 15k unit is actually a 13.5k unit with a bigger fan.  Then I asked what the difference was between the 15k and the high capacity unit. They said it had a bigger fan.  They couldn’t actually tell me what the difference was between the 15k and the high capacity 15k. If you know the details of the difference please let me know. 

Yes that is surprising,  surprising that someone at Dometic would admit those things. 

I hope he still has his job, but who needs a job today?

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1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Do you have the Intellitec AESS module that “swaps” power between the W/D and the Rear AC?  If so, were you using the WD when the breaker tripped?  Even if if you were not using the WD and DO have the AESS, I would disconnect the AESS and wire nut the input and the AC ….thus eliminating the AESS and test it. We have had allot of issues with them.  In addition, reseat the breaker again.  Then pull the cover off the junction box where the AC line and the control module is connected.  A loose or high resistance connection would cause a high load.  Assume the starting capacitor was checked.

Maybe in the AC, but there are many links before the AC gets to the motor….even inside the control module.  The final test would be to swap modules.  Just make sure that each’s DIP switches are reconfigured for their location.

GOOD LUCK….keep us posted.

Honestly not sure if I have the module that you mention. The washer was not running at any time the beaker has tripped. It will start and run but when the compressor kicks in you can hear that it’s struggling. After a minute or two the breaker trips. I put my clamp on amp meter on it and it draws about 22-24 amps prior to breaker tripping. Im ordering two new Penguin 2’s with heat pumps and a new CCC2 thermostat 

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2 hours ago, Chargerman said:

Honestly not sure if I have the module that you mention. The washer was not running at any time the beaker has tripped. It will start and run but when the compressor kicks in you can hear that it’s struggling. After a minute or two the breaker trips. I put my clamp on amp meter on it and it draws about 22-24 amps prior to breaker tripping. Im ordering two new Penguin 2’s with heat pumps and a new CCC2 thermostat 

That's what I did, DW said if we're going someplace get those air conds working right first.  Enough said, order was placed, sometimes momma knows best.  Correction, momma always knows best.

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30 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

That's what I did, DW said if we're going someplace get those air conds working right first.  Enough said, order was placed, sometimes momma knows best.  Correction, momma always knows best.

Yup. I can live without A/C easier than she can. Unfortunately, I doubt they will get here in time for an upcoming rally we have starting next Thursday. Would be great if I could at least get the rear one swapped out before then. Fingers crossed they show up before mid next week. 

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2 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

Yup. I can live without A/C easier than she can. Unfortunately, I doubt they will get here in time for an upcoming rally we have starting next Thursday. Would be great if I could at least get the rear one swapped out before then. Fingers crossed they show up before mid next week. 

I'm guessing that would just about take a miracle.  To get one that soon you would probably need to drive & pick it up.

People have used a portable air cond for such occasions but unless you have one or could borrow one they cost too much for a short use IMHO.

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4 hours ago, Chargerman said:

Honestly not sure if I have the module that you mention. The washer was not running at any time the beaker has tripped. It will start and run but when the compressor kicks in you can hear that it’s struggling. After a minute or two the breaker trips. I put my clamp on amp meter on it and it draws about 22-24 amps prior to breaker tripping. Im ordering two new Penguin 2’s with heat pumps and a new CCC2 thermostat 

Your profile needs updating to include the length and model.  It appears that you don’t have a center AC.  The Dynasty and above with 3 AC has the AESS unit under the bed.  It is wired so that the WD has priority or the Normally closed circuit.  If the WD is off and there is no load on the unit (downstream) and the Rear AC comes on, the AESS switches power to the Rear AC.  Both the rear AC and the WD use the same 20 Amp breaker….but the AESS is the hall monitor.  That module fails a lot. Because folks don’t understand or read that you do NOT a run the Rear AC and WD at the same time.

I will eventually do that.  Let us know how the install works and your satisfaction.

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You are correct. We have 2 A/C units. We do have a portable A/C unit that we could use. We will see what the forecast has in store for the rally area for late next week and we will take it with us if it looks like it’s going to be very warm. Not holding out much hope that the new units will arrive by mid next week. I’ll let you know how everything goes with the install when the time comes

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When my front AC started to act up ~7 years ago it had the same symptoms.  I started watching the load meter when it would start I saw some really high amps.  So when I go home I crawled up on the roof and took the shroud off the AC.  Tried to turn the motor by had and it was almost froze up.  Ultimately I replaced the motor and that solved the problem.

Last year I started to suspect the same thing going on with the rear AC and was going to replace the motor but could not find one.  Decision time.  Decide to bite the bullet and replace both of them. 

When I ordered my two AC's from PPL I received them 4 days after placing the order. 

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53 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

Yahoo. The new units arrived today. Plan is to install the rear one tomorrow. It post the install. 

If you have the drains that collect the condensation and drains it through the tubing to the ground I'd suggest getting new ktis that include the cups and gaskets.  I replaced mine 2 years ago and the old ones were really brittle when I removed them.   Even if you try and use the old ones you'll need a gasket set since it takes an extra one to mount the cups. 

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Thank you James

    Wish I had known this sooner. Pulled the Coach out this AM and placed the first unit on the roof. We shall see what things look like when I open up the old unit. It was previously replaced about 8 years ago so I’m hoping the drain components were replaced then. I’ll let you know what I find this afternoon when I dig in

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26 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

Thank you James

    Wish I had known this sooner. Pulled the Coach out this AM and placed the first unit on the roof. We shall see what things look like when I open up the old unit. It was previously replaced about 8 years ago so I’m hoping the drain components were replaced then. I’ll let you know what I find this afternoon when I dig in

If the drain pans are no good you can leave them off for now,  go ahead with your trip and install new ones later.  It will drain on the roof like most coaches do.   Treat the old ones carefully and they'll probably be fine.  However like Jim said, with drains you are supposed to use 2 gaskets.  You could borrow the  gasket from the unit that is to go up front then order a replacement.

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Well installation of the rear A/C is complete without incident. The cups for the condensate drain were in very good condition so I moved them over to the new unit. The old unit did not have two sets of gaskets and I don’t see how it could be installed with two. I cut the gasket the same way as the old unit was and then sealed around the drain crossover lines with liberal amounts of sealant. The junction box where the romex marries to the Unit high voltage was never assembled with a screw in clamp for the romex so I added on. Another rushed factory assembly job 🙄. Just after I finished securing the unit we had a major downpour and everything stayed dry inside. 👍. Unit runs fine.  I haven’t received the CCC2 thermostat yet for the front unit so it won’t get installed until we return in November. 

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Honestly, I didn't think you could pull it off in such a short time frame.  I couldn't imagine PPL would get them to you in time.

The 2 gasket is to give you a little extra thickness to cut the slot for drain hoses.  The bottom gasket remains uncut the 2nd one gets the slot cut in it.            The unit also rides a little higher with 2 gaskets giving the drain pans a little more space.

Congratulations, have a great trip.

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12 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Honestly, I didn't think you could pull it off in such a short time frame.  I couldn't imagine PPL would get them to you in time.

The 2 gasket is to give you a little extra thickness to cut the slot for drain hoses.  The bottom gasket remains uncut the 2nd one gets the slot cut in it.            The unit also rides a little higher with 2 gaskets giving the drain pans a little more space.

Congratulations, have a great trip.

Thanks Ray

I wasn’t think it would happen either. Amazed that I ordered them on Weds from a local RV repair shop and they arrived Monday. Pretty good timing from  the mid west to Connecticut. I understand the two gasket install now. 

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