MHRookie Posted September 21, 2022 Share Posted September 21, 2022 Wondering if anyone adjusts these units? Current amp don’t match what is on my pedestal EMS surge guard. The small holes below each huge have an flat blade screw head. Can’t find any mfg info on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
On_the_road Posted September 21, 2022 Share Posted September 21, 2022 The only purpose of the adjustment on these type movement meters is to set the zero. With no voltage or current on them, use the adjustment to set the pointer to zero. That is all that you can do. If the current reading is wrong, then the meter (or something else) is defective. The calibration is done in the factory and cannot be easily changed. Also, these type of meters are no more than 5% accurate. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHRookie Posted September 21, 2022 Author Share Posted September 21, 2022 Thanks on-the-road! I’ll look for something else.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted September 21, 2022 Share Posted September 21, 2022 10 minutes ago, MHRookie said: Thanks on-the-road! I’ll look for something else.. Don’t know what type, if any, Aladdin system you have. I would read up on that. The Progressive HW50C has a digital remote that has a rotating display that show the status (any error codes), line 1 VAC & Amps, line 2 VAC & Amps & Hertz. Very useful in knowing your individual loads and also the total Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHRookie Posted September 22, 2022 Author Share Posted September 22, 2022 Tom, One of the reasons I chose the 2003. Simple manual monitor systems (no Aladdin). I’ve started looking at other power monitor options. my a/c specs say my units only run at 13 amps but the surge guard shows 17 & 19 respectively on that device. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted September 22, 2022 Share Posted September 22, 2022 (edited) The current sensing coils are inside the main breaker box, quite far away from the meter in my case and are possibly effected by all the other AC wiring running around them. My AC current readings are also way off and I only use the needles as an indicator of AC presence even after calibration. I have not found digital displays that would be of same size (not sure if they would even work better without relocating the coils) and now I simply use the EMS remote display for shore current reading. Would be nice to have the same accurate reading for generator power but knowing that the genny can take anything I throw at it made it unimportant to me. About the AC unit consumption, I recently realized about the same, 17A running current and plan to go up there and clean the coils since it has been a long time and a lot of dusty desert places. The current consumption defeats usefulness of my easy start when on 30Amp power. Edited September 22, 2022 by Ivan K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution waterskier_1 Posted September 22, 2022 Solution Share Posted September 22, 2022 14 hours ago, MHRookie said: Tom, One of the reasons I chose the 2003. Simple manual monitor systems (no Aladdin). I’ve started looking at other power monitor options. my a/c specs say my units only run at 13 amps but the surge guard shows 17 & 19 respectively on that device. Also, that current spec is at a specific voltage. As the actual voltage goes up from the spec, the current will go down - as the voltage goes down, the current will go up. Also remember that the accuracy of the readouts (meters, either analog or digital) that are used in our coaches are likely +/- 5% at best, possibly +/- 10%. They are not laboratory gradecalibrated instruments. At 5% of 110VAC that is +/- 5.5 Volts, meaning the actual voltage could be 104.5 - 115.5 VAC on your meter. My recommendation is to select one meter to use, and then compare readings only on that meter. Having 3-4 different meters, all reading differently, but all likely within tolerance, is just too confusing for many. - Rick N 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHRookie Posted September 22, 2022 Author Share Posted September 22, 2022 48 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said: Also, that current spec is at a specific voltage. As the actual voltage goes up from the spec, the current will go down - as the voltage goes down, the current will go up. Also remember that the accuracy of the readouts (meters, either analog or digital) that are used in our coaches are likely +/- 5% at best, possibly +/- 10%. They are not laboratory gradecalibrated instruments. At 5% of 110VAC that is +/- 5.5 Volts, meaning the actual voltage could be 104.5 - 115.5 VAC on your meter. My recommendation is to select one meter to use, and then compare readings only on that meter. Having 3-4 different meters, all reading differently, but all likely within tolerance, is just too confusing for many. - Rick N Rick, good insight. I’ve got good direction to start verifying good starting points. my experience is quite a bit more off. with a/c on, I get 10 amps on meter & 16amp at pole surge guard - when hot water kicks on, meter don’t go above 10 & I don’t know what surge guard says. thanks, Kurt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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