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2006 Camelot 12 volt shut off when interior lights were turned on.


brokenarrow1244
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Battery switch on dash ( Salesman Switch) allowed me to reset. Checked battery and charger on Intellitec panel. Made certain charger was on. Really cranking at 80 amps and took about 30 minutes to get back to 4 amps and absorb charge. My batteries checked okay but not full charge, decided to replace them and I did. After installation they too really pulled a charge and got up to normal. However, during the process I had the interior light switch use repeat the problem of killing the 12 volt supply. I did a reset at the dash switch and they came back on. This system causes many other areas of malfunction. A/C stops working, Intellitec panel does not read out correctly. After so many problems it becomes a concern about finding a root cause. So... I guess my questions are, Is it a common problem for the  Salesman switch to just shut down 12v supply if the batteries are weak? Any other area to investigate for that issue? Should I replace the switch again?  The last time it had the same symptoms , Flickering lights when other switches were used, and then lost 12v power. I replaced Batteries and has been fine 30 months. I am a full time user so I only use the door switch by accident. Thanks in advance.

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  • Tom Cherry changed the title to 2006 Camelot 12 volt shut off when interior lights were turned on.

If you just replaced the switch, your problem is the solenoid that it controls. 

 

Find that and bypass it. Use a jumper across it or pile all of the wires together on one post.  This is a very common problem and simple solution.

I removed my solenoid and combined the wires on a post nearby. 

Cycling the salesman switch just cycles the solenoid on and off. IF the contacts inside land on a clean place it will work. If not, you can get all kinds of strange problems.

 

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Maybe to be more clear.

I replaced my 4 batteries. I just used the Salesman Switch when I was looking for the reason I lost 12v power.

It allowed me to reset power.

I suspect the solenoid valve may be a problem, I have previously replaced it Feb 2013.

Are my batteries being weak a cause for the solenoid valve to require

 a reset from the salesman switch?

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1 hour ago, brokenarrow1244 said:

Battery switch on dash ( Salesman Switch) allowed me to reset. Checked battery and charger on Intellitec panel. Made certain charger was on. Really cranking at 80 amps and took about 30 minutes to get back to 4 amps and absorb charge. My batteries checked okay but not full charge, decided to replace them and I did. After installation they too really pulled a charge and got up to normal. However, during the process I had the interior light switch use repeat the problem of killing the 12 volt supply. I did a reset at the dash switch and they came back on. This system causes many other areas of malfunction. A/C stops working, Intellitec panel does not read out correctly. After so many problems it becomes a concern about finding a root cause. So... I guess my questions are, Is it a common problem for the  Salesman switch to just shut down 12v supply if the batteries are weak? Any other area to investigate for that issue? Should I replace the switch again?  The last time it had the same symptoms , Flickering lights when other switches were used, and then lost 12v power. I replaced Batteries and has been fine 30 months. I am a full time user so I only use the door switch by accident. Thanks in advance.

From the Top.....

You need to download this file.  If you DO have your owner's Manuals, then you also need this a backup.  So, lets start with the issues.

First, what you are calling the Salesman's Switch (on Dash), based on the drawings, is not that.  It is MOST likely the Battery Boost switch.  You need to read the manual and understand what the switches are.....and how they work.  The Battery Boost Switch is what connected the TWO banks together.

The Salesman's Switch is on the door (Driver's console panel) as you come it.  It is labeled, per the drawings as Battery Cut Off.  That is what controls the Salesman Solenoid.  Look at Drawing labeled Entrance Switch Panel DWG 38060667.  Look up Battery Cut Off Switch in the manual.  It controls the Solenoid that is providing power to the REAR FUSE PANEL. I don't know where, without pulling the manual, that is located, but it explained in the House Electrical section.  If you look at the drawing, there is a 50 Amp Circuit Breaker.  It is located, I think, in the Rear Run or Electrical Bay.  Some of the solenoids were up front in certain years.  

Here is the ISSUE....based on your description.  That 50 Amp Circuit Breaker feeds the REAR House Distribution (12 VDC small fuses....not the main 115 VAC Panel).  Your Air Conditioning units need 12 VDC to power the Thermostats.  NO 12 VDC....no AC because the Thermostat is dead.  Your House Lights are there also.  Read the manual as it tells you what fuses go where.My recommendation.  START SIMPLE.  You MIGHT need to purchase the following    https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MPB781144   You need to locate the Salesman's Solenoid.  Look at BATTERY DISCONNECT print DWG 38040947.  It is labeled there.  There is a purple (small) wire going to one small terminal and a small red (per the prints) to the other small terminals.   It also has TWO RED (large #6 Cables) on it. Open the link below.  You need to FIND IT AND IDENTIFY IT.

https://parts.unitedrv.com/products/intellitec-battery-disconnect-relay

OK.....now look at it carefully.  Can you remove one of the cables (doesn't matter which one)...?  If so, can you put that cable onto the OTHER stud with the OTHER cable.  In other words....put both on one side or the other and tighten it down?  If so, then disconnect the HOUSE BATTERIES (at the battery.....Removed the TWO jumpers between each battery bank.  THEN, move one cable.  IF the cables are TOO close and can be moved....Then Purchase the NAPA JUMPER and Put it ON EACH SIDE.  That takes the solenoid or the salesman relay OUT of the circuit.  You are bypassing it.  The door switch does NOTHING now.  THAT eliminates a problem inside the Solenoid.

OK....NOW.....look at the Print....(Battery Disconnect).  One of the cables goes to the 50 Amp circuit breaker.  There are TWO kinds of circuit breakers.  One is Self resetting....and when it trips and cools down....it will reset.  The other has a lever and it must be manually reset.  If jumpering or bypassing the salesman's solenoid does not fix it....then the next component is the Circuit Breaker.  Get the Name and Part Number off it.  if you google it....ODDS are, you will find a replacement.  Often Amazon carries them.  Northern Tool also has 50 Amp circuit breakers.  The exact one is not needed...but it you can find it....it would be easier to replace.  Again....remove the Jumpers to separate the batteries....that is the easiest... 

Finally....NO JOY.  Then you will need to be able to figure out HOW to remove the panel or the wood or whatever and find the power lead (it will be a RED #4 Cable. that brings power into the House Fuse Panel.  That MAY BE LOOSE at the panel.  Tighten it....good and tight.

NOW, you have power to the fuse panel.  That should solve it.

Good Luck....Let us know how it comes out.

7 minutes ago, brokenarrow1244 said:

Maybe to be more clear.

I replaced my 4 batteries. I just used the Salesman Switch when I was looking for the reason I lost 12v power.

It allowed me to reset power.

I suspect the solenoid valve may be a problem, I have previously replaced it Feb 2013.

Are my batteries being weak a cause for the solenoid valve to require

 a reset from the salesman switch?

See my post.  If you have a high resistance connection like a loose cable or back contacts in the salesman's solenoid, that will drain power.  Your batteries will have to recharge more...

BUT, if you have a charging problem....then that is between the Batteries and the Inverter.  The Inverter recharges the batteries as well as inverts and gives you 115 VAC power when you do NOT have shore. 

I am trying to follow the problem.....and the lack of information or misinformation is the issue.  If you have an AC problem....then that could be the ATS.  

You need to identify the Automatic Transfer Switch.  It will have THREE large (probably GRAY) cables going to it.  Here is a LINK to a known problem with the IOTA ATS.

 

Go to this post.  Look at the pictures.  If you have the IOTA 50R ATS, that could well be the issue.  Regardless, this is a safety, as in FIRE, issue.  It was recalled, but after Monaco's Brankruptcy, our MH's were NOT covered and we never received any notification.  DO THIS FIRST.....Find the ATS.  If it is the IOTA....get it replaced.  There is information there.  The ESCO LPT50BRD is the recommended replacement.  It sounds like you do no have the electrical skill set to attempt this.  When it is REPLACED....then get the Tech to remove the cover from the main 115 AC panel (the one with the big 50 Amp dual breaker.  Have the tech tighten all the terminals and wires inside this panel as well.  This is a preventative....as the MH going down the highway shakes things loose.

GO...now you have two directions to go.  VERIFY that you do NOT have the IOTA.  BUT, if you had it replaced with something else....it could be the ISSUE.

The comments that I made in the other post only apply to the DC power for the thermostats and lights.  It should NOT impact the Intellitec Remote....as it is an AC device.  BUT, if you have a bad or faulty ATS, then that could give you issues.

 

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just want to say thank you. Lots of areas to investigate. Intend to replace the IOTA after the heat wave. Not due to failure or malfunction, it looks and performs okay but I no longer trust it.

The salesman switch seems to be the issue ....today. It seems the problems are endless. Nice to have the forum go to. I guess we just accept the failure of the component, I look for what made it happen. I guess the solenoid just became tired of work.  Again thank you!! The long read has a lot of clues in it and lends to understanding the interaction of the systems. Better to have more knowledge than not enough.

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1 hour ago, brokenarrow1244 said:

just want to say thank you. Lots of areas to investigate. Intend to replace the IOTA after the heat wave. Not due to failure or malfunction, it looks and performs okay but I no longer trust it.

The salesman switch seems to be the issue ....today. It seems the problems are endless. Nice to have the forum go to. I guess we just accept the failure of the component, I look for what made it happen. I guess the solenoid just became tired of work.  Again thank you!! The long read has a lot of clues in it and lends to understanding the interaction of the systems. Better to have more knowledge than not enough.

Priority is to get IOTA REPLACED.

Save yourself grief.  Salesman switch, for most, is only something to break.  Buy the $9 NAPA 781144 and bypass it or move a cable to one side and have both on one post or terminal.

then evaluate 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • Solution

I have decided to go ahead and replace the solenoid that is activated by the Salesmans switch, that is located by the front door. The switch was not the problem. I had previously replaced the solenoid back in 2013. The choice to replace the solenoid as opposed to simply doing the bypass was made because of the action the solenoid takes to protect other components when powering back up. If it fails again, I will most likely do the bypass, and see how that works for me. I have also had a thought to make mention for other people. I have noticed that I had some flickering at times from my interior lamps, like at the kitchen sink area. That has stopped with the replacement of the solenoid.

I again cannot thank you enough for the help and input from the forum. You are my most valuable asset in owning my Monaco. So much information  and knowledge has been provided. Thank you!

I do have one other question in mind, and doubt anyone has any real answer. I have had horrible thoughts about the Norcold refrigerator having a fire, and now the IOTA has come in to my mind and will be replacing. How do the fire occurrences compare between these components?

Which one has the worst track record?

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11 hours ago, brokenarrow1244 said:

I have decided to go ahead and replace the solenoid that is activated by the Salesmans switch, that is located by the front door. The switch was not the problem. I had previously replaced the solenoid back in 2013. The choice to replace the solenoid as opposed to simply doing the bypass was made because of the action the solenoid takes to protect other components when powering back up. If it fails again, I will most likely do the bypass, and see how that works for me. I have also had a thought to make mention for other people. I have noticed that I had some flickering at times from my interior lamps, like at the kitchen sink area. That has stopped with the replacement of the solenoid.

I again cannot thank you enough for the help and input from the forum. You are my most valuable asset in owning my Monaco. So much information  and knowledge has been provided. Thank you!

I do have one other question in mind, and doubt anyone has any real answer. I have had horrible thoughts about the Norcold refrigerator having a fire, and now the IOTA has come in to my mind and will be replacing. How do the fire occurrences compare between these components?

Which one has the worst track record?

I'm not sure anyone keeps statistics on that but when wandering around an RV salvage yard I saw about 50/50 when able to determine the area of the start of the fires.

The transfer switch is relatively easy to change and in the RV world is not an expensive part. Changing the refer is a bit more daunting but there are many many threads and reports on that. One in the last few days by Bob. Oh heck, crs. Folks here will remind me in a second. He has a fantastic write up. In that write up I posted a link to my refer change out in a slide. That change is one of the best modifications on the RV yet. We full time and the extra space, rapid cooling, and peace of mind was worth the effort. Not having much of a shop limited my choices and slowed the process but it came out fantastic. 

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