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Entry Door Won't Open or Needs Adjustment


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When trying to open the entry door from the outside, the door won't open.  If you use the handle on the inside the door opens just fine.  I have tried adjusting the top and bottom posts, but am not able to get the right adjustment to fix the problem.  I have hear from others that REV has made adjustments for owners at Rallys to fix this issue, but for the life of me, I'm not able to figure out how to fix this on our rig.  I have also found a wire wrapped around one of the metal rods inside the door, so I asuume the previous owner struggled with this issue as well.  I am looking for diagrams on how to open up the door panel more or if there are fixes for this issue.  Any help would be most appreciated!  Thanks!

Door.jpg

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Thanks for directing me to the downloads!  They are very helpful.  I'm trying now to figure out how to open the door panel, as the Dynasty is different from the diagrams in all of the downloads.  But I'm learning!  Thanks again!

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Behind the inside black handle’s panel there is a vertical rod with a adjusting center… 2 jam nuts and a long center nut. Unfortunately both ends are right hand threads so you have to take one end of the rod out of its hole… slide clip off the rod to remove from the hole. Need to lengthen this rod to get more travel on the 2 rods most are saying need adjusting…video above.

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Standard adjustment my not fix your problem if it opens from one side and not the other. I would study the download info to determine if the linkages are correctly assembled. Looking at the photo I would guess that a short cut was taken affecting the outside handle linkage. Take your time to trace every piece and fully understand the function and relationship. It looks complicated at first glance but it's just linkages and levers. Definitely focus on the wired section and see how it interacts with the outside hande. Hope this helps.

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1 hour ago, RSchlicht said:

Thanks for directing me to the downloads!  They are very helpful.  I'm trying now to figure out how to open the door panel, as the Dynasty is different from the diagrams in all of the downloads.  But I'm learning!  Thanks again!


Make sure that you download the long file with pictures and the discussion about the two types.  It would be foolish to speculate on which style you have, as Monaco was using whatever parts were laying around.  All I can say with certainty…..is that my O9 Camelot has the newer style Trimark door which does NOT have wear prone bushing.

OK…I found the GOOD ONE.  I had mine adjusted earlier this spring by a very experienced tech.  I gave his this as a reference.  He was thrilled.  Frank took the original file I had and did some cleanup.  A MUST READ.  I ASSUME you know that the interior door panel has to come off….assuming we have the same door….and your pictures look the same.  You can NOT properly adjust the upper and lower locking bars without doing that.

good luck

 

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53 minutes ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

FWIW, back in earlier days Monaco used doors manufactured by a door vendor before making their own doors.

Exactly right, my door was manufactured by PTL Engineering and has an easily accessible single striker at same hight as the lever handle. Also a nicely working posi lock to keep the door open with a cable controlled mechanism that gets released by the same door handle.

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Thanks for all the input!!!  It took me the better part of the day but I was able to tear the door down and make the necessary adjustments to the rods using doth the length adjusting nut. I also made slight adjustments to the length of the rods going to the top and bottom latches. Now the door pops open with very little pull on the outside handle!   
 

Reassembly of the door was a little tricky but starting on the bottom and working upward proved the best for me sliding the vinyl in as I worked upward.  
 

The panels on my door did not match the ones in the photos and videos in previous posts so I will upload some photos of my door to this thread.  
 

Thanks again!

Ron

BF1D7C7F-5537-4840-8399-EFFAF99DE57B.jpeg

3B39A74A-435F-4891-92E4-76F21763D295.jpeg

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Ron, congrats on this.  I have the same coach, (love it!) started down this path a month ago and gave up.  I have a new door handle to install and the door does not open easily at times.   Always keep a window unlocked…..

 Lots of lithium grease has helped, however I know I need to adjust. 

Did you have to remove the window frame?   I removed most of the lower 2/3rds exterior frame screws and the frame and interior panel wasn’t moving at all.  I was running out of time an stopped.

Looking forward to more pictures. 

Edited by LakeBob
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Moderator's Note.

There was a recent (last Saturday) discussion on this and information.  Using the SEARCH for DOOR in TOPICS, this came up.  Therefore, this new post has been combined into the previous one.  There is a complete HOW TO FILE that was posted. 

When we first bought our 2006 Monaco Cayman 36 foot motorhome five years ago, the entry door was difficult to open from the outside. I was instructed to push in and then quickly take the pressure off on the outside of the door while pulling on the recessed door handle. This has worked, more or less successfully until lately when it has gotten much more difficult for my wife to use enough force to push in the door to make it open. The door opens just fine from the inside.

I need some advice about how to tackle this issue. I had a mobile RV technician visit the rig and he was reluctant to tackle the job of opening up the inside of the door to make any adjustments. Links to any articles or videos about how to do this would be greatly appreciated.

 

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I have to take my door apart at least once a year and spray everything down with silicone spray. Sometimes it doesn’t last a year and I get away with spraying silicone in and around the door handle and the door latch.

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  • Tom Cherry changed the title to Entry Door Won't Open or Needs Adjustment
  • Solution
1 hour ago, whaley96raw said:

Moderator's Note.

There was a recent (last Saturday) discussion on this and information.  Using the SEARCH for DOOR in TOPICS, this came up.  Therefore, this new post has been combined into the previous one.  There is a complete HOW TO FILE that was posted. 

When we first bought our 2006 Monaco Cayman 36 foot motorhome five years ago, the entry door was difficult to open from the outside. I was instructed to push in and then quickly take the pressure off on the outside of the door while pulling on the recessed door handle. This has worked, more or less successfully until lately when it has gotten much more difficult for my wife to use enough force to push in the door to make it open. The door opens just fine from the inside.

I need some advice about how to tackle this issue. I had a mobile RV technician visit the rig and he was reluctant to tackle the job of opening up the inside of the door to make any adjustments. Links to any articles or videos about how to do this would be greatly appreciated.

 

Scroll back and find the HOW TO ADJUST FILE.  It is very clear and informative.  There is one step that is critical.

There are TWO TYPES OF DOORS. 

One with a Bushing that MAY/MIGHT wear.  The condition or replacement of the bushing must be addressed FIRST.  THEN follow the adjustment instructions.

The OTHER one...NO BUSHING.  Skip the bushing comments and proceed.  

Many have done this.  If an RV Tech has never done this....he needs to have the file.  It is NOT difficult and most Techs have done it....some by "On the Job Learning" and others from the File.  Many folks that are handy with tools and can follow the instructions have done it quite successfully. 

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Unless you take the door apart and adjust the mechanism, you are delaying the time when you will not be able to open the door.  That time might come at a bad  moment when you need to move the coach.  Several members take their time to post solutions on this group site.  It's your coach and your time.  Chuck B

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks to info and posts from this great group and some tips from Ron above, I removed the inner panel on my 2009 Dynasty, installed a new outside door handle and adjusted the rods.   Before the repair the door was barely opening at the end of handle travel.   Had to use the push on the upper part of the door trick more than once, and crawl through a window once! 

The lock mechanism works well, however I now have another issue.....🙃  The door isn't closing properly.  We are getting a lot of wind noise from the upper edge of the door, in the area of the upper strike bolt and latch.    

Appears that the upper latch may not be closing into the second position.   I moved each rod adjustment nut equally and have both locks opening at the same time. 

The gap between the door and coach when closed is about 1/8 bigger, at the top than at the bottom.

Other than lubrication, I didnt touch the upper or lower latches. 

The striker bolts are both tight and freely move up and down.   I don't believe there's any adjustment to the striker bolts?

The door was whisper quiet before, now we're whistling Dixie at full volume at 60 mph! 

Could I have over-adjusted the upper rod, preventing it to latch in the second position?   

Could this be a problem with the air seal?   A recent repair included all new air bags, could this have messed with the line to the door air seal.  I did recently find the regulator and switch up on the firewall by the generator.  No idea how to adjust this. 

All ideas are very welcome!!

Thanks!!

Bob

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1 hour ago, LakeBob said:

Thanks to info and posts from this great group and some tips from Ron above, I removed the inner panel on my 2009 Dynasty, installed a new outside door handle and adjusted the rods.   Before the repair the door was barely opening at the end of handle travel.   Had to use the push on the upper part of the door trick more than once, and crawl through a window once! 

The lock mechanism works well, however I now have another issue.....🙃  The door isn't closing properly.  We are getting a lot of wind noise from the upper edge of the door, in the area of the upper strike bolt and latch.    

Appears that the upper latch may not be closing into the second position.   I moved each rod adjustment nut equally and have both locks opening at the same time. 

The gap between the door and coach when closed is about 1/8 bigger, at the top than at the bottom.

Other than lubrication, I didnt touch the upper or lower latches. 

The striker bolts are both tight and freely move up and down.   I don't believe there's any adjustment to the striker bolts?

The door was whisper quiet before, now we're whistling Dixie at full volume at 60 mph! 

Could I have over-adjusted the upper rod, preventing it to latch in the second position?   

Could this be a problem with the air seal?   A recent repair included all new air bags, could this have messed with the line to the door air seal.  I did recently find the regulator and switch up on the firewall by the generator.  No idea how to adjust this. 

All ideas are very welcome!!

Thanks!!

Bob

Reread or search for the air seal topics.  Basically, get a low pressure air gage….say 10 PSI max.  Find the line going to the air seal.  If you look at the seal from outside the MH or door, the line is usually in the lower left corner.  It is a small air line.  Stick your head up and under the door to the front.  There will be a regulator and a valve.  Downstream, it goes to the air seal.  Put a T In the line before it goes to the seal.  Then put the gage on the T with a long line and tape it on the outside of the windshield.  Drive it and watch or have someone watch it.  The specifics of the circuit vary, but say around 5 MPH, the solenoid opens and the seal is pressurized to around 5 psi.  This low pressure stays on or the seal remains inflated until the speed drops and you set the parking brake.  Bottom line, the seal is suppose to deflate or bleed off so you can open the door. When you start engine and begin to drive, it inflates.  Slow down or stop and set the brake (or maybe idling with foot on brake), the seal deflates so you can open the door.

The reason I can’t give you a definitive set of parameters or circuit specifics is that Monaco used several versions, even changed from year to year in a specific model.

.Some 09 Dynasty owners may have traced the circuits and are tech savvy and can chime in.  But the poor man’s functionality test will tell you two things.  The solenoid is working and the pressure is correct.  Ordinarily the system, as long as the seal isn’t punctured is pretty robust….unless the unknowing decide to fix what ain’t broken with no idea how it works.  The OTHER test requires a 1/4 turn valve and some bypassing,  you tap into the regulated air source and seal the door and shut off the valve.  Then you watch the gauge and see if the pressure drops.  How much?  Who know, but if it leaks down immediately, then that is a problem.  The control circuit or operation of the air supply might differ.  IF the seal is being replenished, then the 5 PSI would or should be constantl while driving….and the seal inflates.  If iit pressurizes and the supply is shut off and it leaks, you will see it.

I tried to pin down the old Monaco tech support.  Nope, test it with a gauge….and adjust the supply or regulated air to 5 PSI or so. If it doesn’t work, trace the circuit so the solenoid cycles and check the regulator for the proper setting.

Good Luck.  Keep us posted.

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Replaced the door handle and adjusted the unlocking rod nuts on the upper and lower latches on my 09 Dynasty.   Now the door does not seal well and whistles loudly at highway speeds. The wind noise appears to be coming from the upper door latch area.

The door was usually whisper quiet before, in some cases we had some wind noise and it required opening and closing the door firmly. 

During my repair I removed the door frame on the outer edge to remove the inner door panel, however I did not touch the latches or the striker bolts, other than clean and lube.  The striker bolts move freely up and down. 

Anyone have any ideas why I'm not getting a good seal now?

Is there an adjustment to the latches?

Is there an adjustment to the striker bolts?

Do you think I might have the upper latch adjusting nut too tight?  Not allowing the latch to close to the second position?

The door does have an air seal and Tom Cherry has provided some insight on trouble shooting, however I don't understand why the air seal would fail from the repair performed. 

One thought I had was the door "flatness" may have relaxed when I removed the outer frame and now doesn't have the same fit up against the opening.  I tried loosening the outer frame screws and placing a 2x4 in the lower door opening, then applied pressure to the top of door while tightening down the door frame screws.  This had no effect.  

Another question: Found the document below on-line (nice explanation of the adjusting job).  I did not find any "gasket at the 45 deg corners of the door frame, anyone familiar with these gaskets?   Should I improvise a seal at the corners?

I'm on the road now, however will be stationary for a couple days starting tomorrow and will be able to take a look. 

Thanks for any ideas or suggestions!!

Adjusting entrance door.pdf

Edited by LakeBob
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