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2008 Camelot 40PDQ Slide-Control Switches inoperative


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Our coach has not been used for an extended time, and now I found that most of the switches that control slide in/out operation for the 4 slides don’t work. However, I can get a switch to start functioning again after squirting the inside of it with DeoxIT contact cleaner and exercising it, so I am assuming internal corrosion.

Rather than take each switch apart and clean it, I want to just replace them all. However, I can’t find a part number on them. They are the common rectangular 2-position momentary-action ones.

Any ideas of the part number, or where to source them?

Thanks!

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1 hour ago, RustyTools said:

Our coach has not been used for an extended time, and now I found that most of the switches that control slide in/out operation for the 4 slides don’t work. However, I can get a switch to start functioning again after squirting the inside of it with DeoxIT contact cleaner and exercising it, so I am assuming internal corrosion.

Rather than take each switch apart and clean it, I want to just replace them all. However, I can’t find a part number on them. They are the common rectangular 2-position momentary-action ones.

Any ideas of the part number, or where to source them?

Thanks!

The switches are absolutely PLAIN VANILLA.  They are Single Pole Double Throw Momentary Contact Center Off.  (SPDT MC Center OFF).  Sigma or Carling was the vendor.  They are STANDARD "Pop or Snap" in switches.  They are LOW current draw as there is a Controller board for the Rear and the Lippert Hydraulic Control system is up front.  You do NOT need any heavy duty switches....milliamps of current.  Go to either vendor and look at the catalog. 

You can also download the Parts List and look on page 161.  That has some info on the two vendors.  I can't remember the details, but one of them will take orders but the other will use a distributor.  

The MAIN THING...  What is the size of the cutout or rectangular slot for the switch.  Then match that up with the series that snaps into them.  You want BLACK and a SPDT MC Center OFF switch.  You can probably find them on any electrical supply house online.  I would BUY either the Carling or Sigma as they are know quality.

All you have to do is slip a knife or something under the lip or edge of the switch.  Then push down or put pressure on that raised edge towards the opposite side and lift up.  Then do the other side.  Take a picture of EACH switch as it is "dangling out".  Note which colored wire (it supposedly color coded) is on top and then the middle and bottom.  Use a piece or masking tape and label. BDR Top, Mid and Bot.  Same for FRT.  

here is the print on one of them.  The switch is the same for both front and rear....

I use WD40, SPARINGLY, to lubricate a sticky or balky switch with plastic in it.  THEN, I sparingly hit it with a shot of "Electronic" (NOT ELECTRICAL) Contact cleaner.  The WD40 lubes the switch.  YES, it has a smidge of Kerosene in it....but then that gets flushed out with the Electronic contact cleaner.  Sometimes a simple shot of Contact cleaner will work.

Turn ON the ignition....don't need to start the engine.  That locks out the control voltage.  You can spray and cycle the switches all you want.  

Good Luck.

Bedroom sllideouts.pdf

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Thanks for the info, Tom. I keep forgetting to use the Parts List, mostly because nothing has broken lately (oh boy, that's gonna make the wheels fall off now that I'm bragging!  😩). It is a terrific resource!

Now that I am seeing that the problem is poor conductivity in the switches, I can breathe easier. When I tried the first few switches and the slide(s) didn't move, I had visions of crawling all over, in, and under the coach looking for rat damage. Fortunately, this is shaping up to be a simple fix (there i go jinxing myself again). Just gotta determine which switches I need.

I've always been one for labeling EVERYTHING, and usually take photos too.  Where I used to work we used various different hi-tech contact cleaners in the lab, but now I only have access to the standard ones but they still get the job done well.

 

Thanks again y'all!

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, RustyTools said:

Thanks for the info, Tom. I keep forgetting to use the Parts List, mostly because nothing has broken lately (oh boy, that's gonna make the wheels fall off now that I'm bragging!  😩). It is a terrific resource!

Now that I am seeing that the problem is poor conductivity in the switches, I can breathe easier. When I tried the first few switches and the slide(s) didn't move, I had visions of crawling all over, in, and under the coach looking for rat damage. Fortunately, this is shaping up to be a simple fix (there i go jinxing myself again). Just gotta determine which switches I need.

I've always been one for labeling EVERYTHING, and usually take photos too.  Where I used to work we used various different hi-tech contact cleaners in the lab, but now I only have access to the standard ones but they still get the job done well.

 

Thanks again y'all!

 

 

 

 

This got to challenging..... You need a 1F-1 Switch.  That should be an EXACT match or one that will work...

https://www.sigmaswitches.com/PDFs/pages/1F-1-SPDT.pdf

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154668902851

Look at the PRINT dimension (in mm...so measure yours and convert to metric) of if you have a pair of dial calipers, you are IN LIKE FLYNN.  ASSUMING that the switch hole is correct.....and MEASURE.... The above is what you (think) you need.  

The (ON) OFF (ON) means Momentary Contact on each side.

If you call Sigma, usually they will help you.  BUT first you need to info on the side of the switches.  I had to replace a switch on my "System Heat" and the ones at Advance or AutoZone were a smidge too small.  I ended up ordering a few spares...

https://www.sigmaswitches.com/

Scroll down about 1/4 of the way and read the 1 Series.....the 1F is the MC ONN OFF MC ON.

Good Luck...

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3 hours ago, RustyTools said:

Thanks for the info, Tim, but I couldn't find an exact match.  Will keep looking.

Amazon also has them. I had to replace my front/rear start switch and they had it.

Edited by Tim-AZ
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12 hours ago, Happycarz said:

I bought mine at NW RV Supply.

 

 

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Yes,  that is also a switch number that was posted on many of the IRV2 sites when I did a deep dive search yesterday.  The problem was that no one, and thanks to you, bothered to post the picture.  The discussions over there were confusing and someone posted the wrong info and there was a lot of talk about a DOUBLE POLE switch…..and that was not used.

This should finish it out as the 1F12, assuming it is the same size mounting hole should work or the one you have. I would have taken a picture of my spares, but the MH was not here.

Thanks,…l

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