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WELL - Entry Door Bushing Needed


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image.thumb.jpg.77ddccd91941ac5d5c477f25960bd85e.jpgSo i finally decide to leave Ca to go visit famley an friends in Nevada(carson city) to be exact i took the moho an parked it in front of my sisters house. Iam staying in her spare room for our visit, it was 5: pm we were to have some of her friends over at 6: pm i decided to go to the coach for a mini naptill folks start showing up, grab the door handle and “CLUNK” wont open WTF!!! Long story turned nightmare i finally get the door open but you can tell “not again” my upper latch wont release when i trip the latch closed an try to open it 💩💩💩 so now i pull the entire cover off the inside an realise i have very little movement in the bar to the top latch😡😡😡tried some stuff finally got the upper latch to not latch at all!!! So tommorrow i got to figure out to just use the lower latch for the rest of the trip😖🤦‍♂️
it appears the bushing is done! I have a copy of the adjustment procedure in the coach. Does anyone know where to get one or do we have to make one… bushing that is🤦‍♂️image.thumb.jpg.f922b8de6cbb714756a66b8e628d4931.jpg

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Hopefully someone has a source for the exact bushing, but I had to purchase a similar bushing from McMaster-Carr then drill out the correct size hole. I bought the exact sized bit, but made it all work. 
 

Oil-Embedded Flanged Sleeve Bearing, for 1/4" Shaft Diameter and 3/8" Housing ID, 1/2" Long

https://www.mcmaster.com/6338K413

Hope that helps. 

IF you can wait a few days (ha!), I bought a 10-pack and can drill them out and send it to you a couple, but I won’t be where I can do that until Wednesday. 

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Someone posted in another thread about this door latch a Home Depot part number, IIRC...

Interesting Rik that you have the same coach -year, make and model.... but my door did/does not have a bushing in that location on the latch.

Ken

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Well let me say my outer door handle from the inside has the exact configuration as what is shown in the picture, so i am “assuming” that i have the bushing in mine. Do to at the moment i didnt want to disassemble it any further cause i still have some miles i need to travel… an nothing says hillbilly like a rope tied to the door holding it closed driving down the road🙀

what i can say as a mechanic is when i pull the handle there is very little movement on the two rods going to either latch, due to what i can tell is due to a incredable amount of slop within the workings of the linkage pieces. Last night we were have guests at my sisters house so all i wanted was the door to close to know i could open it in the morning to put some fresh morning eyes on the problem. Will keep everyone posted as the progress moves foreward

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Looking at the picture I was able to adjust mine by taking the slack out of the two rods attached to the long extension nut #13. 

Adjustment took 2-3 minutes, taking the door panel off and putting it back on took a couple house. 

Not sure I could do it without taking the whole thing apart but my wife said the door was hard to open this last weekend when she went to a dog  show. 

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OK, so I just adjusted mine, wife hasn't checked it yet to get the stamp of approval but it seems much better to me.

The first time I adjusted the door in 2019 I took the inner skin completely out, that provided a lot better access but was a lot more work. 

So this time I just took the metal trim off on the outside end of the door, took the grab handle off, took the deadbolt off, the handle trim, and then the small cover.  This exposed some of the assembly.  To access the part that needed adjusting I took a couple blocks of wood and put one high and one low to hold the inner skin off the door.  This provided me enough room to inspect and adjust. 

Right off hand I could not see any missing or worn bushing.  I tested the outside handle and saw that I could pull it out some before the inner working even saw the affect of the handle movement.  So I took the small lock/clip off the connecting link #12 in the picture above.  Then broke the lock nut loose and tightened the connecting link #12 just ONE turn.  Then put it back in the hole and tested.  The movement of the outer handle and the inner workings were the same, no loose or wasted movement.  So I put it all back together and tested again.  Seemed to release much better. 

I still might be able to do some adjustment on the door frame shafts, the ones that the latches lock onto, than may help it a little more. 

Took me ~1.5 hours, with most of the work getting the skin off and putting back on. 

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When I was faced with this issue while traveling, I used a chrome metal valve stem cap to glue over the post in place of the original bushing.  It worked just fine for the rest of my trip.  When I got home, I ordered the stepped brass bushing and replaced the valve stem cap.

Richard

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I havent put the skin back on yet just to make sure it will get me home…

Used some copper tubing, a blade for a hack saw, a hammer an screw to dimple so its tight. Thank you everyone for ideas an suggestions😎

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10 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Looking at the picture I was able to adjust mine by taking the slack out of the two rods attached to the long extension nut #13. 

Adjustment took 2-3 minutes, taking the door panel off and putting it back on took a couple house. 

Not sure I could do it without taking the whole thing apart but my wife said the door was hard to open this last weekend when she went to a dog  show. 

Grrrrr. The last thing you wanted to hear. 

Mine was the same hours on the door panel 2 minutes on the adjustment. 

 

 

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On 10/17/2022 at 12:08 PM, jacwjames said:

Right off hand I could not see any missing or worn bushing.  I tested the outside handle and saw that I could pull it out some before the inner working even saw the affect of the handle movement.  So I took the small lock/clip off the connecting link #12 in the picture above.  Then broke the lock nut loose and tightened the connecting link #12 just ONE turn.  Then put it back in the hole and tested.  The movement of the outer handle and the inner workings were the same, no loose or wasted movement.

Seems there are latches with bushings and without bushings.... My 2003 Endeavor had no bushing and had no room to add a bushing... same it seems as Jim J, yet I have the same make and year of coach as Rik and his photos show the space and need for a bushing.      Mine only required a rod (#12....?) adjustment (between the outside latch lever and the inside latch mechanism).  Snowflakes.....

Ken

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  • 2 weeks later...

So the final story on my door saga, when i got home i went to my local home depot… armed with the skew # i searched there small item bins no luck, from there had them check there invintory nope! So i came home an tried to drill the center of the stub, thinking i would put a screw in the middle with a flat washer to make sure the homemade bushing wouldnt slip off, yeah that didnt work! So i ended up taking off the piece i made and putting dum dum in the hole then force it back in place! 
I would like to get a couple of those bushings to carry for spars cept due to the small cost, they wont order them, so for now it seems ok. If someone out there can get there hands on a couple i would cheerfully repay you if send them to me.

Aside from that i put the inner door skin back on, that was a hell of a fight, but i won. This is another classic reason why it is sooooo important to learn how to do your own repairs i can not immagine paying some one to figure out the issue let alone what it would cost to “come up with a fix” to get you back on the road.

Happy trails everyone👍😎

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There was a recent and informative discussion. There is a very specific file also in this topic.  It has the Monaco procedures as well as how to identify and also the Grainger Part Number and how to slightly modify it if you need the bushing.  

Suggest you read all the posts and download the “FIX” or how to adjust,

Good Luck.

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2 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Look at the 2nd post in this thread,

Scotty posted a link to the part  and/or  offered to send you a couple.  Send Scotty a PM.

Good Eye.  However, what was posted was actually from the best document on doors in our files.  I had one and Frank had one and he "combined" them.  I don't in of the OP has that one or the generic one.....so HERE is the OFFICAL Monacoers.ORG File on adjusting along with replacement and dimensions of the elusive bushing.

These two threads are very simila.

File to download to get complete bushing and BP information on replacement.

That ought to help.

Glad you pointed that out.....should have included the file in my other post...

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4 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Look at the 2nd post in this thread,

Scotty posted a link to the part  and/or  offered to send you a couple.  Send Scotty a PM.

Send me a PM if you need a couple. I have 4 left at this point 😉 I just made a couple today for someone else, so I have everything set up.  The ones I make using the McMaster-Carr bushing are 0.05" OD oversize to compensate for wear.  It can be filed down to fit if it's too large.

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  • Tom Cherry changed the title to WELL - Entry Door Bushing Needed

So thank you james for remindind me of the link to McMasters, an thank you scotty for the offer, i have a few coming now. It sounds as though i just need to drill them out an fit to to the wear on the latch assy, I too will carry a couple to help the unsupecting soul that one day finds themself looking at there door like the repo man just loced them out😂👍😎

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  • 3 weeks later...

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