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Water pump 07 Diplomat


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My water pump just quit. No signs no noise just dead.  Any fuse because I can't find one listed. Any other go too before calling to have it replaced. I can't get down there to diy.  Am currently hooked to shore water.  07 Diplomat PAQ. Pump in back of water bay under hose reel. 

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I can't find any wiring diagrams for any Rear Radiator coaches in that build year +/- a couple years.  I don't think the 07 Dips had full multiplex system.  I'm attaching a wiring diagram from my 05 Exec which does not have multiplex.  It might give you some insight into how the system is wired.  There are three fuses, a 20 Amp fuse in the Front Run Bay (FRB), and then two more fuses near (within 2-ft of wiring) of the water pump itself.  One is a 5 Amp which protects the switches and the latching relay, the other is a 20 Amp inline with the water pump positive lead.  

Can you determine if the latching relay is working - can you enable and disable the water pump - do the switches appear to work to enable the pump?

  -Rick N.

2005 Water Pump_rn.pdf

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There can be two fuses, one near the pump itself and another inside the coach in the same location where the domestic fuse panel is located.

In the Windsor and Dynasty that fuse panel is located in the bedroom.

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I just had to replace my pump on my 05 diplomat and had to redo some of the plumbing since the pump input and output where in a different position (about 1.5" away from the wall)

I cheated and put new connection on the pex and used 2 braided metal connection(like used to connect sinks) to connect to both sides of the pump.
Now changing or winterizing is easy 🙂

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My biggest issue getting down into the bay where the pump is. It's below my hose reel in back of the bay next to the dump handles and water Evac  pvc.  I don't see a fuse in my bedroom closet next to the main ems circuit breakers. I didn't see a designation for water pump in my main panel under the driver's seat bay either. Am I missing something? Sorry it's my back and flexibility that prevents me. From being more proactive not the brain Yet

Found a 10 Amp in rear bedroom closet will check that one and look for others. Thanks soon its coming to the rescue to bend for me. 

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2 hours ago, Joel Sheriff said:

My biggest issue getting down into the bay where the pump is. It's below my hose reel in back of the bay next to the dump handles and water Evac  pvc.  I don't see a fuse in my bedroom closet next to the main ems circuit breakers. I didn't see a designation for water pump in my main panel under the driver's seat bay either. Am I missing something? Sorry it's my back and flexibility that prevents me. From being more proactive not the brain Yet

Found a 10 Amp in rear bedroom closet will check that one and look for others. Thanks soon its coming to the rescue to bend for me. 

Look in the main house (wherever that is) panel.  That should have, per the Prints, a 24 Fuse Panel.  Fuse 14 is RED and is a 10 Amp use.  Try that one.  IF you have the AquaTech (AKA Remco Pump), it is OK to put in a 15 Amp fuse.  The wiring is actually sized for 20.  SOMETIMES this pump will pop a fuse and Monaco and others "UPPED" the fuse size to 15....  That is the FIRST STEP.

NO JOY.....then there are some things to LOOK FOR....

IF a new pump was installed, either after you bought it or before, the new PUMPS were shipped with a crappy INLINE fuse holder.  The solution....CUT IT OUT and DISCARD it.  You do NOT need a FUSE on the PUMP.

The OTHER issue could be the Intellitec Pump Controller.  It is rated for 10 amps and many folks have used the controller with the AquaTech (Remco) pump.  SOME have elected to install a control relay to handle the sometimes 15 amps that the pumps require.  THE TEST.... test.... Measure the voltage at the PUMP.  No incoming VOLTAGE and you replaced the FUSE....then go to the Intellitec Pump Controller and see if the incoming voltage is OK.  If so, then the "Switches" should also send signals.  You may have multiple switches.  Each one sends a Voltage signal to the Pump Controller.  One pulses it ON....the next one....Pulses it OFF.  If all the switches are sending voltage to the Controller....and there is incoming POWER....you got a BAD Intellitec controller.  Replace....but hopefully the Tech will be able to install a relay to feed the pump....and not overpower or wipe out the controller like some have done.

That is about it.  Realize you can't do all this, but that is the way it is wired.  You do NOT have a Multiplex Control Circuit.....several switches....all in parallel to the controller....and connected at one point there.  There is a POWER in wire....from a FUSE.  That Fuse is elusive....if the Controller does NOT have power, then the controller will not work.

I could not find the pump controller on the prints....but I may overlooked.  Download these if you don't have them in the back of your manual. Any TECH will need them.  BUT the power issue needs to be troubleshot and not just a new pump.

Replace the F14 fuse....Remove the city water feed....then try.  if no joy.  call someone.....unless you can locate the Pump Controller Main Incoming fuse....and I can't...

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Found a 10 Amp in rear bedroom closet will check that one and look for others. Thanks son its coming to the rescue to bend for me. Changing location of pump is an excellent idea 

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This topic was double posted and has been merged.  The Headlight issue is not germane to the topic title.  Request that OP, Joel Sheriff not double post.  If this is an issue, then research and search here….and then, if necessary, post a new topic.

MODERATOR EDIT 

I found a fuse in the closet behind the EMS for the water pump. Is there another fuse on our near the pump itself either in line or on pump in the water bay? 

Also is there more than one fuse for the headlights other than front bay under drivers seat. Headlights went out after just putting on highbeams and the switch was just replaced. 

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Fuses blow because there is a large, unplanned draw.  You don't just replace the fuse and call it good.  You diagnose why the fuse blew to begin with.

That being said, you need to understand the circuit that is being protected to diagnose.

Why was the headlight switch replaced?  Were the Low / High beams working after that?  Could a wire gotten pinched when the switch was replaced that is now blowing a fuse?

Do you have the wiring schematic for your rig?  I would start there.  That will answer your question on how many fuses to the headlight circuit(s).

Generally there is an inline fuse to the water pump between Power and the pump controller.  Typically in the wet bay.  Also typically out of sight...

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm sorry with all that's happening to this rough I may have forgotten to resound. I did find the fuse and it was OK. The tech went directly to the pump and got wired it from the batteries and it didn't respond. He replaced the pump and all is well. Thank you all and sorry for the delay in advising outcome. Joel 

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