Joel Sheriff Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 My water pump just quit. No signs no noise just dead. Any fuse because I can't find one listed. Any other go too before calling to have it replaced. I can't get down there to diy. Am currently hooked to shore water. 07 Diplomat PAQ. Pump in back of water bay under hose reel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Mo Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 Should be a fuse at or near the pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterskier_1 Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 I can't find any wiring diagrams for any Rear Radiator coaches in that build year +/- a couple years. I don't think the 07 Dips had full multiplex system. I'm attaching a wiring diagram from my 05 Exec which does not have multiplex. It might give you some insight into how the system is wired. There are three fuses, a 20 Amp fuse in the Front Run Bay (FRB), and then two more fuses near (within 2-ft of wiring) of the water pump itself. One is a 5 Amp which protects the switches and the latching relay, the other is a 20 Amp inline with the water pump positive lead. Can you determine if the latching relay is working - can you enable and disable the water pump - do the switches appear to work to enable the pump? -Rick N. 2005 Water Pump_rn.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 There can be two fuses, one near the pump itself and another inside the coach in the same location where the domestic fuse panel is located. In the Windsor and Dynasty that fuse panel is located in the bedroom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bret trickett Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 I just had to replace my pump on my 05 diplomat and had to redo some of the plumbing since the pump input and output where in a different position (about 1.5" away from the wall) I cheated and put new connection on the pex and used 2 braided metal connection(like used to connect sinks) to connect to both sides of the pump. Now changing or winterizing is easy 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
det944 Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 My 06 Dynasty has a 15 amp fuse for the pump in the bedroom wardrobe. The reel motor is protected by a circuit breaker rocker switch in the water service bay. This is a multiplex coach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Sheriff Posted October 18, 2022 Author Share Posted October 18, 2022 My biggest issue getting down into the bay where the pump is. It's below my hose reel in back of the bay next to the dump handles and water Evac pvc. I don't see a fuse in my bedroom closet next to the main ems circuit breakers. I didn't see a designation for water pump in my main panel under the driver's seat bay either. Am I missing something? Sorry it's my back and flexibility that prevents me. From being more proactive not the brain Yet Found a 10 Amp in rear bedroom closet will check that one and look for others. Thanks soon its coming to the rescue to bend for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
det944 Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 Also, if you are hooked up to shore water the pressure provided may be above the threshold to allow the pump to activate. Not sure what the minimum pressure is that activates the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 2 hours ago, Joel Sheriff said: My biggest issue getting down into the bay where the pump is. It's below my hose reel in back of the bay next to the dump handles and water Evac pvc. I don't see a fuse in my bedroom closet next to the main ems circuit breakers. I didn't see a designation for water pump in my main panel under the driver's seat bay either. Am I missing something? Sorry it's my back and flexibility that prevents me. From being more proactive not the brain Yet Found a 10 Amp in rear bedroom closet will check that one and look for others. Thanks soon its coming to the rescue to bend for me. Look in the main house (wherever that is) panel. That should have, per the Prints, a 24 Fuse Panel. Fuse 14 is RED and is a 10 Amp use. Try that one. IF you have the AquaTech (AKA Remco Pump), it is OK to put in a 15 Amp fuse. The wiring is actually sized for 20. SOMETIMES this pump will pop a fuse and Monaco and others "UPPED" the fuse size to 15.... That is the FIRST STEP. NO JOY.....then there are some things to LOOK FOR.... IF a new pump was installed, either after you bought it or before, the new PUMPS were shipped with a crappy INLINE fuse holder. The solution....CUT IT OUT and DISCARD it. You do NOT need a FUSE on the PUMP. The OTHER issue could be the Intellitec Pump Controller. It is rated for 10 amps and many folks have used the controller with the AquaTech (Remco) pump. SOME have elected to install a control relay to handle the sometimes 15 amps that the pumps require. THE TEST.... test.... Measure the voltage at the PUMP. No incoming VOLTAGE and you replaced the FUSE....then go to the Intellitec Pump Controller and see if the incoming voltage is OK. If so, then the "Switches" should also send signals. You may have multiple switches. Each one sends a Voltage signal to the Pump Controller. One pulses it ON....the next one....Pulses it OFF. If all the switches are sending voltage to the Controller....and there is incoming POWER....you got a BAD Intellitec controller. Replace....but hopefully the Tech will be able to install a relay to feed the pump....and not overpower or wipe out the controller like some have done. That is about it. Realize you can't do all this, but that is the way it is wired. You do NOT have a Multiplex Control Circuit.....several switches....all in parallel to the controller....and connected at one point there. There is a POWER in wire....from a FUSE. That Fuse is elusive....if the Controller does NOT have power, then the controller will not work. I could not find the pump controller on the prints....but I may overlooked. Download these if you don't have them in the back of your manual. Any TECH will need them. BUT the power issue needs to be troubleshot and not just a new pump. Replace the F14 fuse....Remove the city water feed....then try. if no joy. call someone.....unless you can locate the Pump Controller Main Incoming fuse....and I can't... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary 05 AMB DST Posted October 19, 2022 Share Posted October 19, 2022 I changed my water pump one time and that was enough for me. I relocated the pump to the front of the bay for easy access. Gary 05 AMB DST Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Sheriff Posted October 19, 2022 Author Share Posted October 19, 2022 Found a 10 Amp in rear bedroom closet will check that one and look for others. Thanks son its coming to the rescue to bend for me. Changing location of pump is an excellent idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Sheriff Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 This topic was double posted and has been merged. The Headlight issue is not germane to the topic title. Request that OP, Joel Sheriff not double post. If this is an issue, then research and search here….and then, if necessary, post a new topic. MODERATOR EDIT I found a fuse in the closet behind the EMS for the water pump. Is there another fuse on our near the pump itself either in line or on pump in the water bay? Also is there more than one fuse for the headlights other than front bay under drivers seat. Headlights went out after just putting on highbeams and the switch was just replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidL Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 Fuses blow because there is a large, unplanned draw. You don't just replace the fuse and call it good. You diagnose why the fuse blew to begin with. That being said, you need to understand the circuit that is being protected to diagnose. Why was the headlight switch replaced? Were the Low / High beams working after that? Could a wire gotten pinched when the switch was replaced that is now blowing a fuse? Do you have the wiring schematic for your rig? I would start there. That will answer your question on how many fuses to the headlight circuit(s). Generally there is an inline fuse to the water pump between Power and the pump controller. Typically in the wet bay. Also typically out of sight... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walker Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 I had a similar problem with my headlights. There is an inline fuse in the front drivers side bay. That fuse was blown and the wiring for it was melted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Sheriff Posted November 2, 2022 Author Share Posted November 2, 2022 I'm sorry with all that's happening to this rough I may have forgotten to resound. I did find the fuse and it was OK. The tech went directly to the pump and got wired it from the batteries and it didn't respond. He replaced the pump and all is well. Thank you all and sorry for the delay in advising outcome. Joel 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 Good to know that you resolved your water pump problem! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Coffey Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 I am wondering,,, If the water pump is the problem,, will the switches still light up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 Yes, as there is a multiplex switch before the pump which the switches are connected to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Coffey Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 I have replaced the relay and the multiplex switch and checked all fuses,, still no lights on the inside switches and no pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 Have you verified 12 VDC power on the +12 connector of the multiplex relay? Also that your ground connection on the multiplex relay is a good ground? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 1 hour ago, Greg Coffey said: I have replaced the relay and the multiplex switch and checked all fuses,, still no lights on the inside switches and no pump. EDIT....this post and my response are LONG....so I'm a little confused. You stated that you changed the RELAY. That is where we need MORE information. Look at the TWO PRINTS at the BOTTOM. If you have the OLDER or TYPICAL, it has a Pump Control Module and a "RELAY". The confusion is that some folks refer to a Multiplex Output Module as a relay. We NEED TWO THINGS....and you can read or scan my "technical document below" FIRST....pictures of the INTERNAL WATER PUMP SWITCH and the EXTERNAL Bay Switch. That will tell us if you have a LATE YEAR 2005 which "COULD...not NECESSARILY DID) have a Multiplex System....which controlled all the lights as well as the Water Pump. Second... Have you SEEN a Intellitec PUMP Control Module....it MAY be near the Relay. Look at the 2003 Print....that is what I THINK...but WHO KNOWS, you have. Thus, if you are chasing a Multiplex (CPU Controlled) system like Richard has in his 2006, then you are chasing a GHOST...your's is (may be or who knows?) DIFFERENT. UNTIL WE GET the Pictures and feedback, then searching for stuff that May or MAY NOT exist is a lost cause. POST the Pictures and the INFORMATION END OF EDIT....but read the rest as it explains , in way TOO MUCH detail, and I apologize, how the systems differ and how each work... The 2005 Dynasty Sales Brochure and the Owner's Manual do NOT show a Mutliplexed (Intellitec MPX) system. Look at Page 274 of the Owner's Manual. The 2006 Dynasty had a MPX system where there was the Intellitec MPX switches on the panels in the Galley, Bath, Vanity and such. HOWEVER, that system STILL used the Intellitec Water Control Pump module on the same page In 2006, the PRINTS SHOW that the Intellitec MPX was used....but there was a MANUAL Switch in the wet bay. It is a STRANGE critter. It actually FEEDS back a Signal to the PMC Module... or I THINK it does. The best I can tell...look at the drawing...is that when you PUSH the manual, momentary contact switch, then terminal 2 is grounded through Terminal 3....that sends a signal to the PMC controller. It then, I surmise....send a Signal to the 10 Channel Module "C" unit....or somehow, via the CPU it happens. Then the Output Module "Thinks" that one of the Lighted Key Pad Pump Switches has been PUSHED. THEN if that circuit is OFF, it is turned ON. Then circuit 5 on J2 sends out a VOLTAGE SIGNAL which is ON....the PUMP gets this signal and the LIGHT on the Momentary Contact Switch (terminal 10) is on...and the light also has a ground on terminal 9....so the PUMP has voltage and the Momentary Contact Switch ON light has 12 VDC....The opposite occurs when the pump is turned OFF...but any switch, including the manual one. YES...that is a MOUTHFUL....but that was HOW they did it 2006 per the prints. I had THOUGHT that the Pump Controller was still used in the 2006, but the prints show it was NOT... SO.... All that to SAY.. I THINK, if you have three Manual Switches....and No MPX System, then you DO have the Intellitec Pump Controller. NOW, if you have a LATE MY Run (or a SHOW COACH with the 2006 MPX system), you COULD have the MPX system. A photo of the PUMP SWITCH in the Galley or what the panel looks like would be great.... It is difficult to DIAGNOSE the 2005 without knowing what "VERSION" is being used. NOW....the difference... Using the "AS Built or ADVERTISED" 2005 circuit. The drawings are CONFUSING....as in... WAS THERE A Intellitec MPX system (lighted Key Pads) or were there THREE separate Momentary Contact and GROUND out a circuit to the Intellitec Pump Control Module. When the Pump has POWER...as in it has voltage going to the motor, but the pressure switch (may be internal or external depending on the Pump type) will be the circuit that RUNS or TURNS ON the Pump. If you look at the manual....it is DIFFICULT to know what the interior switches look out. The SALES BROCHURE did NOT SHOW THE MPX SYSTEM...That was an upgrade in 2006...so Richard's info has to be parsed based on that.... However, as long as the Pump Controller is supplying power to the PUMP, as in the Pump Circuit is ACTIVE and the Pressure Switch controls the ON/Off, then each of the THREE switch's PILOT OR ON LIGHT will be illuminated. SO... Do you have the LIGHT ON on ANY SWITCH....if SO, then there is power, presumably, going to the PUMP...but the pressure switch (internal on the Remco/AquaTech 55 R model) controls the cycling. If you do NOT have a LIGHT on any switch....then the problem is MOST LIKELY in the Pump Control Module... UNFORTUNATELY... The 2005 Dynasty Prints that we have in the file were from the UPDATED prints for a 2006. I have NO IDEA what is in your book. There are "discrepancies" in them as they jump back and forth and some of the "Intellitec MPX" prints show LATE revisions.... Typically, Monaco would start making the 2006 in July 2005...and the prints were not completed until close to that date or OTHER PRINTS were dated after the presumed MY Change over. SO...BOTTOM LINE... Pictures of your SWITCH (any Pump Switch). I DO know that the switches for the PUMP in both 2005 and 2006 used the Intellitec Pump Control Modules (or am somewhat confident). Then in 2007, the schematic was updated and the Pump Switch in the Wet Bay was converted to an Intellitec Lighted switch and there was a RELAY that provided power or a direct CIRCUIT (MPX Channel) to the Pump. IF you DO have a MPX System (Lighted Key Pads)....you will have a CPU and Modules in the Closet. Read the diagram... IF you see the word PUMP....then when you press the PUMP button (or use the manual switch in the wet bay), then the circuit should come on. That, in the 2006 and presumably 2005, sends a ON SIGNAL to the Intellitec Pump Controller. Look at the "Typical Water Pump...." print below. That shows how the PUMP works when there are THREE Manual Switches... YES....CONFUSING...but you MUST know WHICH circuit and system you have to be able to trouble shoot...as well as understand. SO...LET US KNOW...Pictures and such... Good Luck. Pump Control 2006 Dynasty - NO Intellitec Pump Controller Module.pdf Typical Water Pump (2003 Dynasty and OTHERS) using Intellitec Pump Control Module.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Coffey Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 The first pic is the Front Bay under driver, 20 amp fuse, good. All fuses in the pump Bay are good. I have no power coming to the pump from the relay that the red wire comes from. These pics aren't very good showing where the wires come and go,, I will try to send better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Coffey Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 The first pic is the Front Bay under driver, 20 amp fuse, good. All fuses in the pump Bay are good. I have no power coming to the pump from the relay that the red wire comes from. These pics aren't very good showing where the wires come and go,, I will try to send better. I also have a switch in the dump bay with outdoor shower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Coffey Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 ByI have checked power. I have power at the latching controller and also going to the relay. I have the same reading on all fuses except the fuse on the red wire going to the pump. Grounds seem good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 (edited) Greg, How this system works is this - The latching controller has four connections, one +12 VDC, one -12 VDC, one for all of the switches and one for the load. When you turn on anyone of the switches, the switch indicators should light up unless the bulb is blown in the switch itself or the indicator lamp. The latching controller will send 12 VDC to the load terminal which is connected to a HD relay and activates the relay. The HD relay will have a larger HOT wire that should be a good constant +12 VDC which when the relay closes, it sends that +12 VDC power to the pump motor. The reason for the HD relay is because the Latching Controller can NOT handle the amps needed to drive the pump motor. So they use a secondary relay to handle the higher amps. You need to verify that good power is present at all of those places and if not, why. Are you sure that you got the relay wired correctly? Edited January 16 by Dr4Film 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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