2006 Camelot electrical and inverter issues

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, myrontruex said:

Ah ha, new clue. The fireplace was not previously coming on but this clue adds up better now. I know how hard it is to keep symptoms straight when swapping from generator to shoreline, then swapping shoreline past a surge protector, then moving the shoreline to a post much further away.

This is why I had over five pages of scribbles last night. Once my bain settled down those notes were cleared up and as an interim test/partial fix I suggested swapping the L1 and L2 incoming wires. This is a very simple thing to do and would light up many of the circuits in question.

Not knowing the "modifications" mentioned by the OP from the previous owner things can get complicated quickly. 

From my RV I have experienced a bad path inside my Magnum. It was a solder connection on one of the pop-out circuit breakers on the inverter. This is for someone that might benefit from this post in the future. I have had a bad transfer switch. Yes the IOt-?? .. I lost shoreline completely but generator worked for everything. A simple bypass allowed shoreline to supply power while waiting for a new part.

Then a really tough one was having a connection come apart in a junction box buried deeeep below a pile of wires and plumbing. I had to use a signal tracer to find that one. It was a simple wire nut situation. 

Now to really confuse things there is a GFCI along the edge of my kitchen counter. It is hard to see and even harder to remember it is there. The Ah Ha moment after it bit me in the butt the second time had me making a label in plain site for future reference. 

My fireplace is/was controlled by a remote. The remote box was buried Deeep as well and chasing that down after removing the fireplace was no joy. The remote box is in the landfill as the company said to toss it. They had many issues with them so they opted to get rid of that option.

Then there is the GFCI outlet along the hall next to a small cabinet that holds stuff. That outlet is/was hard to remember where it was located and that it could trip as well and some GFCIs do not play well with modified sine wave inverters. 

The OP has changed a GFCI that will not reset and now knows they will not reset unless they have power to the inputs. 

As I remember this clue she gave me I must remind her after the shoreline is fixed and hopefully that GFCI works again that it is very easy to miswire those darn things.

If there is a Walmart or Target nearby they often have the repair plugs for the shorelines. No need to chase one down at a CW.

One of the strange clues is that the 50 amp is showing on the display panel even though one leg is not getting through.

There could be a sneak path allowing enough leakage to confuse the situation. I need to refresh my memory on how the panel knows the shoreline is 50 amp or 30 etc. Need more coffee first.

Myron,

Again thanks for taking this as a personal challenge and project.  

First.  Lowes and maybe HD might stock the 50A plug or the 14-50 NEMA.  Those are usually interior residential styles and way overpriced…but would do in a pinch and should be later changed out to the Camco or equivalent.

Next up is the Intellitec EMS.  There are two leads running from the 50Amp Intellitec main panel to a terminal strip on the Intellitec EMS PCB.  pull the manual and they are terminals 1 & 3.  As long as there is 240 VAC between the two leads, the 50 Amp light is on. Those of us with long memories can attest, as well as M&M’s trouble shooting that the EMS can get into a funk and need to be rebooted.  You probably know the drill and I don’t know if GypsyJo is experienced enough to do it.  The simple method is to turn off or pull the shore and also to open the circuit breaker on the Genny.  Then pull the 6 screws holding the cover on.  On the right side is the EMS PCB or brain.  There is a 3 amp fuse, maybe slightly hidden behind the harnesses.  I recommend unplugging the 2 or 3 harnesses also.  This is really simpler than disconnecting the house batteries and the solar (if equipped).  Leave it off for a few minutes,  plug back in the wiring and then replace the fuse.  Then power back up.  FWIW….the remote is dumb….other than the toggle 20/30 switch.  So, if the 50A is on, then the EMS says…I HAVE 240 VAC.

Rereading all your notes.  The outside outlet in the bay is controlled, by code, from the GFCI.  So, if the GFCI is inoperable, then that outlet will be also.  NOTE FOR BOTH YOU AND HER.  A freezer on that outlet is a “No No” IF the freezer is self defrosting or has a heater circuit.  It will trip it as a false positive.  My comments still stand on identifying the load outputs on the GCFI and, if possible, putting the icemaker circuit on the LINE side of the GCFI.  As to compatibility, many electrical supply shops, “in town” should have Eaton Wiring Devices 20 Amp GFCI in stock or maybe an Ace.  Lowes sells their only private label brand, which I would not bother to install.

As a followup, I had suggested that she run each AC, as a positive Test on Shore to make sure she had Line 1 and Line 2.  Did she do that?

I will leave it at that so you can continue to assist.  

[MyronTruex]

Glad you are getting your own voltmeter. Send me a  picture if you have any questions on where to set the thing. AC~ for the current procedures. 

Thanks for the information on the refer going through the inverter. 

Once you have the shoreline fixed, we can address the power flow through the inverter. That panel we discussed must be opened for access.

Toughest part of using a voltmeter is finding a good ground for one of the leads. Alligator clips are very handy if you have one. Anything that can secure the connection because it is just too easy to miss a measurement because of a faulty probe connection.

Even a scrap of wire wrapped around one probe and held on with tape can be handy. Finding a screw you can back out and put the other end of the wire around can work.

A good Electronic Technician comes with three hands. I only came with two so had to make my way with the help of others. 

I have made my own ground connections on the rv which come in handy. After the light bulb went off in my head I bought a replacement 110 volt plug and some speaker wire. Connecting to the ground lug of the plug with the wire, I can plug into any outlet and have a reliable ground at the end of the wire with an alligator clip or just strip and wrap it around the probe.

A voltmeter is essential in an RV and a 12 volt test light can be a life saver. Just a cheap ten dollar or less one with a light bulb inside. Sometimes you need a good load to test a circuit. 

A digital voltmeter can trick even a seasoned technician. 

 

[MyronTruex]

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Myron,

Again thanks for taking this as a personal challenge and project.  

First.  Lowes and maybe HD might stock the 50A plug or the 14-50 NEMA.  Those are usually interior residential styles and way overpriced…but would do in a pinch and should be later changed out to the Camco or equivalent.

Next up is the Intellitec EMS.  There are two leads running from the 50Amp Intellitec main panel to a terminal strip on the Intellitec EMS PCB.  pull the manual and they are terminals 1 & 3.  As long as there is 240 VAC between the two leads, the 50 Amp light is on. Those of us with long memories can attest, as well as M&M’s trouble shooting that the EMS can get into a funk and need to be rebooted.  You probably know the drill and I don’t know if GypsyJo is experienced enough to do it.  The simple method is to turn off or pull the shore and also to open the circuit breaker on the Genny.  Then pull the 6 screws holding the cover on.  On the right side is the EMS PCB or brain.  There is a 3 amp fuse, maybe slightly hidden behind the harnesses.  I recommend unplugging the 2 or 3 harnesses also.  This is really simpler than disconnecting the house batteries and the solar (if equipped).  Leave it off for a few minutes,  plug back in the wiring and then replace the fuse.  Then power back up.  FWIW….the remote is dumb….other than the toggle 20/30 switch.  So, if the 50A is on, then the EMS says…I HAVE 240 VAC.

Rereading all your notes.  The outside outlet in the bay is controlled, by code, from the GFCI.  So, if the GFCI is inoperable, then that outlet will be also.  NOTE FOR BOTH YOU AND HER.  A freezer on that outlet is a “No No” IF the freezer is self defrosting or has a heater circuit.  It will trip it as a false positive.  My comments still stand on identifying the load outputs on the GCFI and, if possible, putting the icemaker circuit on the LINE side of the GCFI.  As to compatibility, many electrical supply shops, “in town” should have Eaton Wiring Devices 20 Amp GFCI in stock or maybe an Ace.  Lowes sells their only private label brand, which I would not bother to install.

As a followup, I had suggested that she run each AC, as a positive Test on Shore to make sure she had Line 1 and Line 2.  Did she do that?

I will leave it at that so you can continue to assist.  

Did not have time or get to that. Had plenty information already.

Turning off the batteries in my coach removes the DC to everything. Not necessary nor prudent to do too many things at once. It will just muddy the water.

Don't know if I recommended HD or Lowes for the plug but at least meant to way Walmart and Target. They sell camco I believe and have had one on mine for over a year now and we full time and both AC's run almost every day months on end.

I have had a freezer/refer plugged into my bay for years with no issues. She has had hers running there for a long time so no issues. 

Of course, from 50 years of experience, it is impossible to get two electronic technicians to agree on how to tie a shoe. 

I went back through the EMS manual thoroughly this am. I'm very familiar with the circuit boards in the AC breaker panel too as mine went up in smoke a long time ago. Too much heat in that cabinet area and have resolved that issue. 

Hope she found a plug. And a voltmeter. 

[GypsyJo]

I replaced plug and have volt meter now. 
The plug didn’t make a difference. 
what now?