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Sourcing Basement Thermostat


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I need to replace my basement thermostat that controls the heating radiator over the water tanks. The part number is E2 Type2B61-186 made by White Rogers. It is in a 2006 Monaco Dynasty. First, I go to parts list and call them. They don't carry them anymore. Then, I go on eBay, can't find exact, but do find one that the temperature adjustment goes from 0-250 degrees. So, I bought it and when it comes in, the probe has been cut off. So, that won't work. After emailing and calling with no results, I go to "dispute" with Paypal.  Then, I call Visone RV Salvage and they don't have one. I am now waiting to see if Colaw RV can find something similar. Any suggestions on where to look or what to you?  Woody O

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If you totally come up empty you can try different temp probes or thermistors.  You might need to add resistance in series or parallel, depending on where the cutoff points are.  I had to do this with an RV fridge a few years back.  It will take some experimenting, but might get you there.

Of course, if that temp probe was cut off the whole unit may be bad, clipped by the tech that removed it.  Roll of the dice.

And, of course, if you're not comfortable with electronics all bets are off. 

Be sure to give a lengthy review for that ebay seller.  Most deliver the goods, some don't deliver but bribe you into not leaving a bad review and the very few that just don't give a rip.  Sorry.

Good luck,

- bob

Edited by cbr046
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Woody,

the technical name for this is a capillary tube line voltage thermostat.  Here is a quick link to the manual.

https://manualsbrain.com/en/manuals/813792/

These are heavy duty controls that are used in a variety of industrial and commercial applications,  The Dynasty’s and higher use the more expensive controls and the Camelots and down use a cheap snap disk….although my prints call for the Capillary….and Monaco got cheap….

First question….have you thoroughly trouble shot it.  All it does is CLOSE when the ambient or wherever the temperature probe is located.  This one is 0 - 50 deg and OPENS (turns off) on temperature rise.  So if the temp drops below the set point….typically 35 - 40 deg, the mechanical contacts close.  All that does is like a light switch.  The AH temp or Thermostat contacts are attached to it.  You test it by using a cup of water with some ice in it.  The calibration is factory set.

Some folks will have to jump in here, but I have a “Gee someone told me that” factoid.  One some Dynasty, I THINK you had to have the bedroom furnace in the ON mode.  You need to check that out.  One way to test would be to put the probe into melting ice water cup and use a VOM.  This unit does not have any “electrical or power needs”.

If it is defective, then you need a POOL or Freeze Protection Capillary Thermostat. Here is one on Amazon.

Here is a Intermatic replacement that is on Amazon…..there are others…..

INTERMATIC INC 178T24 THERMOSTAT FOR FP1102T/PF1103T

white Rogers or Robert Shaw or Johnson controls makes the nicer, more reliable units.  The Intermatic is more of a common garden variety.  This one gets good ratings.  You can research now and find a comparable part number on their websites.  Grainger sells these as they are commonly used.  Just need to specify the range and ON ON TEMPERATURE RISE.  Don’t get anything that goes above 75 deg….stay in the zero to 50/60 range….

good luck and make sure you understand how and when it will work…if you did that….great, but not understanding when it comes one and what other conditions are needed is common.

if you haven’t read the manual, check it out. I THINK the ones that required a bedroom zone to be on had a warning in the discussion.

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Thanks, I will check it out once I get home. I know this one is bad because on a 50 degree day, the heater is running in the basement and my bathroom floor is nice and warm. I checked temp in basement and it is 71 degrees. Tried turning down, but fan won’t stop until you turn thermostat off. At this point, it is off or running. So, again, “Thanks” for providing me a source to get a replacement.

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4 minutes ago, Woody O said:

Thanks, I will check it out once I get home. I know this one is bad because on a 50 degree day, the heater is running in the basement and my bathroom floor is nice and warm. I checked temp in basement and it is 71 degrees. Tried turning down, but fan won’t stop until you turn thermostat off. At this point, it is off or running. So, again, “Thanks” for providing me a source to get a replacement.

Great.  You are past the many hurdles.  Yes, the tubes do go bad.  These are really heavy duty and I used a bunch of them to set up industrial equipment and maintain precise control.

BUT, age and vibration and whatever……if you want a comparable unit, call some of the vendors or do some research….or buy the Intermatic.  I do NOT know if constant vibration will be an issue on this one.  That may be why Monaco went with the industrial version as many are mounted on the sides of machines or furnaces or whatever and there is vibration.

I’d do a little research…..and they decide…..a $300 unit would not be my choice over this one, but if I found an industrial one under $100, I might go that way.

ONE THOUGHT.  If you found some 1/4” rubber sheeting or vibration pad and glued it to a piece of plywood and then glued it to the side wall or used some wood screws, then use that as a base for the cheaper one.  You eliminate the vibration rather than a hard solid mount.  Folks do that on the RV55 pumps to reduce noise and bass drum vibrations.  Just a thought.

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One option is to install a baseboard thermostat in series with the main voltage line in your heater.  I used something similar to control a 120V / 1500W portable heater in a cargo trailer for years.  Voltage could be 12V or 120V as it's simply a temperature controlled switch.  Be sure to check the current draw on your baseboard heater.  This one has a 22A limit. 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cadet-Single-pole-22-Amp-Line-Voltage-120-240-volt-Mechanical-Electric-Baseboard-Heater-Mounted-Thermostat-in-White-BTF1W/202247920

Of course, if you're not comfortable with deviating from the original design don't do it.

- bob

Edited by cbr046
switched URL for 2-wire version
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20 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

One option is to install a baseboard thermostat in series with the main voltage line in your heater.  I used something similar to control a 120V / 1500W portable heater in a cargo trailer for years.  Voltage could be 12V or 120V as it's simply a temperature controlled switch.  Be sure to check the current draw on your baseboard heater.  This one has a 22A limit. 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cadet-Single-pole-22-Amp-Line-Voltage-120-240-volt-Mechanical-Electric-Baseboard-Heater-Mounted-Thermostat-in-White-BTF1W/202247920

Of course, if you're not comfortable with deviating from the original design don't do it.

- bob

The Capillary tube OEM is a line voltage, but is not the "line".  It is only the thermostat switch contacts. The Capillary Tube, per a friend with an O8 Dynasty is located in a "remote" area of the bay....almost on the other side.  Not IDEAL, but this is Monaco.

The range on this one is a little too tight for my thinking....but that is a matter of opinion.  For whatever reason, Monaco went with a 186 DF max.  However, the Capillary tube ones are extremely accurate and pre or factory calibrated.....thus the 50 DF Monaco print call our would be very accurate and the Differential band would be tight.  BUT, it depends on WHERE the Bulb sensor is located.  I think he needs one that is from ZERO or so up to 50.  So the unit will turn OFF at a 35 - 40 set point.  BUT, that is my best guess.  The AH will pump out a lot of heat.....but I don't know how big his bay is.  My service bay is half the size....as the propane tank takes up the other half.  The Dynasty's bay maybe the equivalent of full length.....based on a 2008 owner's comments. 

The OTHER and most common option is to use the CHEAP hanging Snap Disk Thermostat that Monaco used on the Camelots.  It feeds or triggers the Thermostat signal on the Cargo Electric heater.  It would work also for the Aquahot.  I have TWO of these in mine.  One is wall mounted for the AH and the other is just hanging down in side the bay. I finally chased down the callout on the print.  The cheap Snap Disk is a 40 DF ON and a 55 DF OFF.  If I were going to do a lot of winter camping, I would pop in the Intermatic as it has a much narrower band and is close to the design specs (or the real specs that an Engineer would use) for the original OEM one.  That is WAY too wide.

Thus, as I think mine is wired.....assuming that Monaco cheated and used the same Snap switch, it is dealer's choice as to WHICH one comes on.  The one glassed or mounted to the floor or sidewall (varies by whoever did the install) of the hanging one.  So, ONE would stay on and the other might never come on. 

The specs indicated that Monaco, IMHO, did not put a lot of thought into the control points....

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Given the good advice from several people including Tom Cherry, I went with a Dayton model #6EDY7 Line Voltage Thermostat to replace my White Rogers #E2 Type2B61-186 Thermostat. Thanks for a great bunch of people that are willing to share their knowledge to help their fellow traveler.

Woody O

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3 hours ago, rambler07 said:

Here is what I used Black Horse racing 12 Volt adjustable thermostat. $11.99 +shipping. Long capillary  tube.

got it from  ebay

Greg

Nice and cheap. I am considering it in the 12V switch circuit for electric element in Aqua Hot, so it heats up before the fan kicks in if I was away. That has been enough where we are.

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6 hours ago, Woody O said:

Given the good advice from several people including Tom Cherry, I went with a Dayton model #6EDY7 Line Voltage Thermostat to replace my White Rogers #E2 Type2B61-186 Thermostat. Thanks for a great bunch of people that are willing to share their knowledge to help their fellow traveler.

Woody O

Good choice.  I used a Dayton "Wall Thermostat", which was Line Voltage, in my son's Condo (he owns it).  Put it in in 2004.....still working FINE today and it is switching a heavy load blower (within the rated capacity of course).

This will work GREAT.  NOW....the ONLY thing I might add, and this was input from Frank....who never uses his AH as he does not winter camp....is that the bulb is mounted on the OPPOSITE side from where the actual plumbing is.  Not REALLY smart.  The Bulb should be in the vicinity of the item(s) you are going to protect.  SO, consider mounting in a more logical and effective location.  Common Sense....no engineering calculations needed....Monaco never did....LOL

OK....Next up.  This one will probably last forever.  BUT, if you put the box on an isolation mount (sheet of rubber....Amazon sells), then the vibration will be eliminated.  You COULD use a rubber grommet or such to mount it.  I DOUBT that it will vibrate much.  Just leave a few loops or coils in the capillary tube and don't put it in a strain or under tension.

Good Luck.  Pictures are expected...

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