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Intellitec 10am low side latching controller?”


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Does anyone know if a malfunctioning Intellitec 10amp latching controller would cause my fluorescent lights to flicker when the water pump is running? The condition sometimes causes the Intellitec board to trip and shut down the system momentarily. 

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Are the lights flickering or just dimming for a few moments as the pump pressurizes?

In any case, it is unlikely the module is at fault. It is a basic dumb-latching relay. 

However, voltage dropping for the time the pump is building pressure could cause some strange symptoms. 

The module simply applies a heavy voltage/current wire to the motor. IF the connections are weak it could cause some issues. Exercise the plugs on the module by pulling them off and on a few times, being sure they are snug when done. 

Then chase the heavy wires to where they begin. Possibly in the battery compartment inside a plastic housing. Loose or dirty connections in there could cause a host of quirks or ghosts. Of course, clean battery terminals and grounds are a must.

When an electric motor or relay/solenoid energizes there can be a large pulse of power surge through the wires. The batteries are the filters in vehicle 12 volt systems. 

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First of all, I am not a electrical wise person.  When I first bought my 2002 Diplomat when turning on my florescent lights the digital readout on my EMS panel would go crazy, blinking/flashing.  I took my coach to Monaco repair shop in Coburg warranty repairs. Techs there couldn't find the problem so I looked up the EMS manufacture and sent them an email.  They replied very rapidly saying that they would send me a wiring harness which I stopped at a Monaco Dealer in Phoenix installed.  Problem solved.  My point is go the the manufacturing company and ask them!  

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I had a fluorescent light ballast start to go and it affected several inteeitec circuits in the rear of my coach. Only had the problems when that light was on.. Converted it to led and no more issues. This prompted me to replace them all. Problems in one circuit can cause other issues.

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14 hours ago, Ted Carbonaro said:

Does anyone know if a malfunctioning Intellitec 10amp latching controller would cause my fluorescent lights to flicker when the water pump is running? The condition sometimes causes the Intellitec board to trip and shut down the system momentarily. 

5C8F3E3F-4ED9-43AC-BA9E-A8A8EC0D7C5A.jpeg

CB38D3B0-BD94-406A-B5EA-0E5F4CD668F0.jpeg

OK....here is what I think.  I did download your manual.  ASSUME that you have prints in the REAR of your manual.  The system you have is a real HYBRID.  SO....I gotta ask a few questions.  The prints from the manual show an INTELLITEC lighting system.  That will be THREE big black modules and you can turn on the lights from many places as well as dim them.  If you do NOT have the Multiplex system.....then you have a conventional system.  NOW this is where the issue lies.  The Owner's manual shows a large fuse box.  That Fuse Box or Panel would NOT be used with the Multiplex....

SO....here is what I THINK the problem is.  You have a bad connection between the main power to the Fuse Distribution Panel and some, MAYBE a Circuit Breaker.  If you have the THREE big Intellitec Modules, then you have a similar problem.....

The FIRST fix or thought is that the Salesman Solenoid has bad contacts.  Therefore, when you have a high resistance connection and you put a load (like the 20 amp pump circuit), you actually pull down or reduce the voltage....that causes the amperage to go up.....compounding it.

My FIRST suggestion would be to BYPASS the Salesman's Solenoid.  There are many posts here on that.  If you do NOT get the full 80 amps through this solenoid, then what is happening is that the Pump is drawing a large (normal) current load.  Then the voltage drops.  BINGO, the Fluorescent Light Fixture ballasts will start to flicker.  We have had some cases where the ballasts were so bad that they would not come on....but did NOT blow a fuse.  The test for that was to turn off (the slide switches on the fixture) all and see if the Pump flickers anything else.  Then turn ON one Fluorescent fixture (obviously all the Fluorescent light switches MUST BE ON).  Then as you add a load, they eventually will flicker or maybe even not work.

You can BYPASS the Salesman's solenoid by moving one of the large cables (RED) from one side and putting both on one terminal.  Not enough SLACK?  Then the NAPA 781144 Jumper can be added.  That bypasses it.

OK....STILL no joy.  Then, you have to do some digging.  There is a Circuit Breaker(s) (or maybe a large ANL style Fuse) that powers the Intellitec Modules as well as the House Distribution fuse panel. There have been issues with the circuit breaker connections being loose.  If you have the 3 modules, then the panel they are mounted on or near them will have to be removed.  There is a large RED cable going to it.  On the OTHER end of the cable is a circuit breaker.  They vary in size.  The connection of them comes loose.

If you have a single panel fuse box, then you need to locate where it is being fed from and find a circuit breaker or a fuse.

Bottom line, there is PROBABLY a loose connection and the issue is NOT in the Pump Relay but the fact that it draws a lot of current, so the lights are flickering.

I wish I could be more specific, but having a good connection and proper power (amperage) to the Modules or the Fuse Panel....or BOTH. is imperative.  My Camelot has 4 CB.  The heaviest is for the fuse panel. BUT, since my pump and all the lights are on the Intellitec Modules, there are three more....and a Fifth if there were a rear electric toilet.

Start with the Salesman's switch....then work downstream.... 

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Thanks for all the support! I will start with checking all connections. I may have a ballast issue as well. My 4 bulb kitchen fluorescent light is only lighting the two outside builds even after replacing all four bulbs. 
Always something to troubleshoot and repair! 

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