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Kongsberg Chassis Control Multiplexing


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If anyone here is having issues or knows of anyone having issues with their 08, 09, 10 Monacos with the Kongsburg Chassis Control Multiplexing system please reach out to me. You can contact me on here, or via email at BWickett1617@yahoo.com.

I am working on a permanant fix. I don't have a ton of details yet so this is more of a who needs it so to speak.

Thanks,

Brett

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On BEHALF of the vast array of Staff we have, Monacoers HEARTILY endorses this effort.  Keep us updated from time to time and if a new thread pops up, will make sure this topic gets posted there.

THANKS & Good Luck.

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1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

On BEHALF of the vast array of Staff we have, Monacoers HEARTILY endorses this effort.  Keep us updated from time to time and if a new thread pops up, will make sure this topic gets posted there.

THANKS & Good Luck.

Thanks Tom, I don't know the outcome I will find just yet but there will be an outcome. If this works out it will not be just a good idea type fix as it could get expensive. BUT for those like me with a completely dead CCM system it could be the fix we need. I don't want to discuss any of the deatails yet a I do not have anything in stone. I am not on a goose chase however...lol

I took a lightening strike in April which took out both of my CCM's, my ECU and at least one dash switch module which left all dash switches dead. At the end of the day this has been a very long process born out of need as all I have is a very expensive Park Model left of my 09 Signature. 

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Bob, you have a Kongsberg chassis multiplex system.  To confirm look in the FRB.  You'll see a single large circuit board and a CCM module below it.  A conventional chassis system will have over a dozen small circuit boards and a SmartWheel module in the FRB.

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1 hour ago, LakeBob said:

Yes, that is what I have.  It's become a source of significant frustration for me as well.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You have a second CCM in the overhead of the first bay. What type of issues are you having?

 

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50 minutes ago, Brett63 said:

You have a second CCM in the overhead of the first bay. What type of issues are you having?

 

Brett, my primary issues are with the Eaton switches in the cockpit of the coach.  I've lost the overhead cockpit lights, porch light, door handle lights, stepwell lights, docking lights, and bay lights.  The overhead fan switch is not working.  I've also lost power to the video display for the cameras, and the radio circuit.  My high beam light is on all the time, the right headlight is working intermittently, and the instruments lights are non-functioning.  Several switch's still function, step cover, gen start, batt jump, windshield shade, power window. 

Frank McElroy has been very helpful, trying to trouble shoot my issues. I've pulled all the master switches and the slaves and worked the connections, without positive results. 

I have located and checked the fuses in the second CCM.  I found one 30 Amp fuse blown, #12, labeled Trailer Bat. Replaced fuse, repowered coach, fuse did not blow.  No effect on the other dash, cockpit power issues.  

Very interested in what you're working on, so sorry for your situation, these are great coaches, sad that we have this Achilles heel. 

Please keep me in the loop, be glad to help as needed. 

 

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19 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Post #9 has a source for the CADET software for the Kongsberg system.  

CADET Software For Monaco Multiplex Chassis - iRV2 Forums

That source does not work any longer There are no CADET softwares out there to be gotten any longer.

 

11 hours ago, LakeBob said:

Brett, my primary issues are with the Eaton switches in the cockpit of the coach.  I've lost the overhead cockpit lights, porch light, door handle lights, stepwell lights, docking lights, and bay lights.  The overhead fan switch is not working.  I've also lost power to the video display for the cameras, and the radio circuit.  My high beam light is on all the time, the right headlight is working intermittently, and the instruments lights are non-functioning.  Several switch's still function, step cover, gen start, batt jump, windshield shade, power window. 

Frank McElroy has been very helpful, trying to trouble shoot my issues. I've pulled all the master switches and the slaves and worked the connections, without positive results. 

I have located and checked the fuses in the second CCM.  I found one 30 Amp fuse blown, #12, labeled Trailer Bat. Replaced fuse, repowered coach, fuse did not blow.  No effect on the other dash, cockpit power issues.  

Very interested in what you're working on, so sorry for your situation, these are great coaches, sad that we have this Achilles heel. 

Please keep me in the loop, be glad to help as needed. 

 

Very odd on yours as the way the dash switch pods are interconnected if one pod goes out it takes the remainder of the others out. it's like the old Christmastree lights. So for you to have some working and some not is rather rare. Your two masters are the pod with the gen start and the pod that controls the mirrors. Unfortnately there are no switch pods that will work with the CCM's we have and no CCM's that will work with our coaches or our switch pods. It is kind of an all or nothing fix. I have been in contact with MM several times and they are not close to repairs or replacements yet per their words. I have turned the page on them and am working in a completely different direction, probably will not be cheap, but when you are sitting like I am with a coach that does not work from the floor down I am out of options really. I can't sell my coach, can't drive it, can't trade it. Fortunately the house side all works great. Again, I am NOT working on a fix for a broken component as there are none. I am working on a permanant repair for a completely broken coach, or a coach you don't want to mess with the Kongsburg system in. Hopefully I will know more in the next week or so. Thanksgiving put a halt to things. 

BTW, all power has to be removed from the coach before you unplug or plug in any of the switch pods or you take a very good change in buring something out. The switch pods are extreemely fragile in the system. I have both of my CCM's and all of my switch pods boxed up sitting in the floor as they just returned from an Electronics shop deemed unrepairable.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/25/2022 at 11:35 AM, Brett63 said:

That source does not work any longer There are no CADET softwares out there to be gotten any longer.

 

Very odd on yours as the way the dash switch pods are interconnected if one pod goes out it takes the remainder of the others out. it's like the old Christmastree lights. So for you to have some working and some not is rather rare. Your two masters are the pod with the gen start and the pod that controls the mirrors. Unfortnately there are no switch pods that will work with the CCM's we have and no CCM's that will work with our coaches or our switch pods. It is kind of an all or nothing fix. I have been in contact with MM several times and they are not close to repairs or replacements yet per their words. I have turned the page on them and am working in a completely different direction, probably will not be cheap, but when you are sitting like I am with a coach that does not work from the floor down I am out of options really. I can't sell my coach, can't drive it, can't trade it. Fortunately the house side all works great. Again, I am NOT working on a fix for a broken component as there are none. I am working on a permanant repair for a completely broken coach, or a coach you don't want to mess with the Kongsburg system in. Hopefully I will know more in the next week or so. Thanksgiving put a halt to things. 

BTW, all power has to be removed from the coach before you unplug or plug in any of the switch pods or you take a very good change in buring something out. The switch pods are extreemely fragile in the system. I have both of my CCM's and all of my switch pods boxed up sitting in the floor as they just returned from an Electronics shop deemed unrepairable.

Yes, appears I have an odd situation.  With my limited understanding of the system, I think I must have a power issue, where the power may not be getting to the relays that are sending the power to each component when singled from the cpu.  I've been trying to study the wiring diagrams, however my time has been limited as we are on the road for the winter.  

Yes, I'm aware that I need to remove all power before unplugging or plugging in a switch, I treat them like gold. 

Have you contacted REV in Coburg OR?   A poster on IRV2 said they were able to solve a CPU/Eaton switch issue a couple years ago.  

Please keep me posted on your progress. 

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On 12/6/2022 at 8:37 PM, LakeBob said:

Yes, appears I have an odd situation.  With my limited understanding of the system, I think I must have a power issue, where the power may not be getting to the relays that are sending the power to each component when singled from the cpu.  I've been trying to study the wiring diagrams, however my time has been limited as we are on the road for the winter.  

Yes, I'm aware that I need to remove all power before unplugging or plugging in a switch, I treat them like gold. 

Have you contacted REV in Coburg OR?   A poster on IRV2 said they were able to solve a CPU/Eaton switch issue a couple years ago.  

Please keep me posted on your progress. 

Yes I have contacted them a few different times. There is nothing they can do. They have zero parts and aside from the very basic they cannot fix any issues.

 

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  • 1 year later...

My wife and I bought a 2009 Monaco Dynasty from a dealer in September of 2023.  We're full-timers and experienced RVers.  Though I researched various motorhomes prior to the purchase, I didn’t know about the potential pitfalls of the Kongsburg system until after we bought ours.  We definitely have the Kongsburg system in ours.  
 

So, if you already own a coach with such a system, what are the best practices to follow to prevent problems.  For example, we keep all seals and caulking maintained to ensure that is no water intrusion—especially in the compartment containing the CCM module.  But what else?  For example, are temperature extremes bad for the Kongsburg system?  We’re in 15 degree lows on some nights in North Carolina but can easily change our travel schedule to avoid such low temperatures.  Just trying to get some straight advice for those of us “stuck” with the Kongsburg.
 

[Sorry if this is the wrong spot to post this message.  Tried to find an existing thread.]

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My best advice is to read all 12 pages in this long saga on how a Kongsberg chassis multiplex system works and how it was repaired. 

Pay attention to my posts.  I describe the importance of always removing power before unplugging dash switch modules, never letting batteries go dead, putting in the 5 volt supply to fix smart wheel issues and adding extra voltage protection relays to the front run bay (FRB). 

Failed obsolete dash switch modules can now be repaired.

 

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Will do, Frank.  I’ve read but will re-read again.  I didn’t see anything in the past posts that mention to steer clear of temperature extremes.  But please let us know otherwise.  
 

(Also, we did complete the 5-volt power supply fix for the smart wheel.  Appreciate this group and all the helpful posts.)

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5 minutes ago, alandsue2dogs2 said:

Will do, Frank.  I’ve read but will re-read again.  I didn’t see anything in the past posts that mention to steer clear of temperature extremes.  But please let us know otherwise.  
 

(Also, we did complete the 5-volt power supply fix for the smart wheel.  Appreciate this group and all the helpful posts.)

Temperature extremes are not an issue unless you let the house batteries run dead.

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Same as you, we didn't know anything about the CCM system before our purchase.  We have a 40' Bishop IV with a unique floor plan.  We love our Dynasty.   With Frank's mentoring and many others' experience, suggestions, and recommendations; I added circuit breakers to the battery cables in the FRB.  And, I installed the 5V transformer to stop the weird problems we were having with the smartwheel.  It's not very difficult.  I think it took a couple hours, after I got all the required parts.  You do need to make sure all the power to the house and chassis battery cables is shut off.  The attached photos show the result of my install.

2023-12-22  (10).JPG

2023-12-22  (14).JPG

Edited by Tom Whitlow
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Thank you, Tom . . . Very nice of you to include those pictures.  Now that we’ve taken the plunge, we definitely want to protect our investment and will avail ourselves of all of the knowledge available in this forum, including the projects best suited for those of us with the Kongsburg set-up.  Much appreciated!

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Hi Tom that looks good I’d bought the trips to do my bishop but yours look like better parts is it tripped and fused can you give me part details and we’re to get them from please I’m in the uk so will have to send to US for them any help would be truly appreciated 

thanks Stephen D 

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2 hours ago, Stephen D said:

Hi Tom that looks good I’d bought the trips to do my bishop but yours look like better parts is it tripped and fused can you give me part details and we’re to get them from please I’m in the uk so will have to send to US for them any help would be truly appreciated 

thanks Stephen D 

There are lots of documents and discussions regarding both of these.  There is a thorough write-up, with photos, by Tal G and Frank Mcelroy.  Frank has also described how to add the 12V to 5V transformer.  Another member included detailed photos of this process.  I'm unskilled, unknowledgeable, and untrained; but following the detailed instructions provided by others on this site, I did it with no problems.

The two breakers I used are

Mechanical Products 174-S0-060-2 Surface Mount Circuit Breaker, Manual Reset, 1/4" Stud 40A

Mechanical Products 174-S0-080-2 Surface Mount Circuit Breaker, Manual Reset, 1/4" Stud, 60A

To connect the new breakers to the House and Chassis battery terminals on the PCB, I used 60A (Chassis) and 40A (House) Littlefuse MEGA Fuses (bent to 90 degree angle) because there wasn't enough room on my configuration to squeeze in short large terminated battery cables.  This made the install very easy.  I found these at my local Advance Auto store.  Any NAPA dealer should have them.  I think now maybe I should have upped these fuses so that the resettable breakers would pop before the fuse.  I carry a couple extra fuses in the coach now. 

The 12V to 5V transformer can be found on Amazon with a search.  I used a 10A model.  Note there's a 1A fuse on both of the power wires.  These can also be found on Amazon.  Good luck over there in the mother country. 

 

2023-12-22  (14).JPG

2023-12-10.JPG

2023-12-22  (2).JPG

Chassis Multiplex.pdf

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59 minutes ago, Tom Whitlow said:

There are lots of documents and discussions regarding both of these.  There is a thorough write-up, with photos, by Tal G and Frank Mcelroy.  Frank has also described how to add the 12V to 5V transformer.  Another member included detailed photos of this process.  I'm unskilled, unknowledgeable, and untrained; but following the detailed instructions provided by others on this site, I did it with no problems.

The two breakers I used are

Mechanical Products 174-S0-060-2 Surface Mount Circuit Breaker, Manual Reset, 1/4" Stud 40A

Mechanical Products 174-S0-080-2 Surface Mount Circuit Breaker, Manual Reset, 1/4" Stud, 60A

To connect the new breakers to the House and Chassis battery terminals on the PCB, I used 60A (Chassis) and 40A (House) Littlefuse MEGA Fuses (bent to 90 degree angle) because there wasn't enough room on my configuration to squeeze in short large terminated battery cables.  This made the install very easy.  I found these at my local Advance Auto store.  Any NAPA dealer should have them.  I think now maybe I should have upped these fuses so that the resettable breakers would pop before the fuse.  I carry a couple extra fuses in the coach now. 

The 12V to 5V transformer can be found on Amazon with a search.  I used a 10A model.  Note there's a 1A fuse on both of the power wires.  These can also be found on Amazon.  Good luck over there in the mother country. 

 

2023-12-22  (14).JPG

2023-12-10.JPG

2023-12-22  (2).JPG

Chassis Multiplex.pdf 3.33 MB · 3 downloads

Thank you Tom for a great informative post.

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Thanks tom I already had the breakers as recommended by frank and was wondering about fuses like what you have  done at a 90 because of the tight space but did not know weather  to do that or a solid connector bent at a 90 as some people say that some breakers are not accurate enough and some say fuses Are to sensitive and like you I new nothing about this kongsburg system problem when I bought my bishop IV in late 2010 we just need to do everything we can to protect our coaches that we can your pictures are also a  help thanks again ps dose anyone know of anyone who can copy the cadet software for resale as no one has it in the UK

Stephen D

thanks again f

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31 minutes ago, Stephen D said:

Thanks tom I already had the breakers as recommended by frank and was wondering about fuses like what you have  done at a 90 because of the tight space but did not know weather  to do that or a solid connector bent at a 90 as some people say that some breakers are not accurate enough and some say fuses Are to sensitive and like you I new nothing about this kongsburg system problem when I bought my bishop IV in late 2010 we just need to do everything we can to protect our coaches that we can your pictures are also a  help thanks again ps dose anyone know of anyone who can copy the cadet software for resale as no one has it in the UK

Stephen D

thanks again f

Actually the Cadet software is not very useful.  It basically does the same functions as working dash switch modules and not much more.  Even if you had the software you would need a specific license code to Monaco corp that is specific to your computer and interface module.  Kongsberg no longer gives out those license codes.

Since I'm able to read digital output codes from the dash switch modules and repair them, the Cadet software would be a no benefit other than to prove you had a failed switch module.  With the dimmer on full brightness, if you don't see the switch rocker text lighting up, you would already know that module doesn't work.

The good news is that these obsolete dash switch modules can now be repaired.

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