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Hot water works but heat doesn't


Go to solution Solved by nvrtoofast,

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Posted

Hey all,

 

The furnace kicks on to run hot water for the shower or the sink but it doesn't kick on for heat. I checked all minors elements, fuses etc, but would like some input on where to start tracking this down. the system worked all last winter but started acting up near the end of winter and now that the need has arisen I'm back to working on it.  I'm working on a 2006 Monaco Camelot.

 

Thank you in advance for any input.

Posted
5 minutes ago, nvrtoofast said:

Hey all,

 

The furnace kicks on to run hot water for the shower or the sink but it doesn't kick on for heat. I checked all minors elements, fuses etc, but would like some input on where to start tracking this down. the system worked all last winter but started acting up near the end of winter and now that the need has arisen I'm back to working on it.  I'm working on a 2006 Monaco Camelot.

 

Thank you in advance for any input.

There is one piece of information that we need.  Do you have an AquaHot or a HydroHot system where you get heat and hot water from the same boiler style unit?

IF SO....then what brand is it.  A picture of the unit and the control panel is needed.  

If you have the Aquahot, there are multiple pumps in it....

Go to this TOPIC.  I put a generic description of how most most.....maybe about the third post into it.

there is a lot of info there.  Your Hot Water is actually being supplied by the water pressure, whether on board pump or city water. 

BUT, everything else has pumps.  Typically ONE for the front and one for the rear.  You need to identify which system you have and then read some.

Without knowing what brand and model of the "system", folks have a hard time helping.  The other post goes into a lot of detail that is also beneficial in trouble shooting.....

 

Posted

Very helpful Tom. I will take a look at the unit and the posts.

 

Posted

As Tom mentioned what type of hydronic system you have,aqua-hot,oasis,etc.how many heat zones do you have in your coach?,your heat has zone pumps that circulate the heated solution to the radiators in the coach,each zone has its own pump,and one for engine heat if you have that option.Now there should be a main fuse panel by your unit or attached to it that has minnie fuses accompanied with little led lights the will let you know if the fuse is blown,maybe  just a tired fuse which is an easy fix if it keeps blowing the fuse it’s your zone pump.I have an oasis system that replaced the aqua-hot,the zone pumps are $300.00+,don’t try using a cheap 12v pump (I know tried going that route they don’t hold up to the hot water). Now I don’t know where your unit is located but on my 2003 HR Imperial.I had to access it from my basement,the distribution center that houses the zone pumps is a separate box that’s separate from main heating unit.Look around on your heating unit to see if there is a toll free number to call,I know Oasis has one and they will walk you through any problem,yes you get to talk to a real tech and they are very patient and it’s as though they are looking over shoulder.Hey lots of luck ,getting to know just some of the workings of your motor home,it’s an unending learning process.Hope this gives you somewhere to start.

Posted
34 minutes ago, Poppa G said:

As Tom mentioned what type of hydronic system you have,aqua-hot,oasis,etc.how many heat zones do you have in your coach?,your heat has zone pumps that circulate the heated solution to the radiators in the coach,each zone has its own pump,and one for engine heat if you have that option.Now there should be a main fuse panel by your unit or attached to it that has minnie fuses accompanied with little led lights the will let you know if the fuse is blown,maybe  just a tired fuse which is an easy fix if it keeps blowing the fuse it’s your zone pump.I have an oasis system that replaced the aqua-hot,the zone pumps are $300.00+,don’t try using a cheap 12v pump (I know tried going that route they don’t hold up to the hot water). Now I don’t know where your unit is located but on my 2003 HR Imperial.I had to access it from my basement,the distribution center that houses the zone pumps is a separate box that’s separate from main heating unit.Look around on your heating unit to see if there is a toll free number to call,I know Oasis has one and they will walk you through any problem,yes you get to talk to a real tech and they are very patient and it’s as though they are looking over shoulder.Hey lots of luck ,getting to know just some of the workings of your motor home,it’s an unending learning process.Hope this gives you somewhere to start.

Good post.  The one thing that I did not say nor was here.  There are, on SOME systems, pumps with Check Valves in them.  AH, I THINK, changed designs and finally, on the newer ones, have metal check valves.  Look at the 450 D (E?) book.  I THINK that those pumps are just PURE pumps.  Bottom line, if you have built in check vavles, you can TAP (not using a 2 pound sledge hammer) with a large screwdriver handle and free up the check valves.  They WILL, based on past posts, get stuck.  So, that is why folks recommend using the system for heat occassionally and not letting it just SIT around.

Good Luck....

Posted

Hey Tom good catch,also I suggest to to freshen up the hydronic fluid,can be acquired through Amazon(red or Yellow),depends on what your system is charged with.

Posted
1 hour ago, Poppa G said:

Hey Tom good catch,also I suggest to to freshen up the hydronic fluid,can be acquired through Amazon(red or Yellow),depends on what your system is charged with.

Not something I'd want to jump to without testing the existing fluid first!

There is a theory that too high a percentage of boiler fluid to distilled water, is what causes the zone valves to stick, which is possibly the OP's problem. 

Posted
21 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Good post.  The one thing that I did not say nor was here.  There are, on SOME systems, pumps with Check Valves in them.  AH, I THINK, changed designs and finally, on the newer ones, have metal check valves.  Look at the 450 D (E?) book.  I THINK that those pumps are just PURE pumps.  Bottom line, if you have built in check vavles, you can TAP (not using a 2 pound sledge hammer) with a large screwdriver handle and free up the check valves.  They WILL, based on past posts, get stuck.  So, that is why folks recommend using the system for heat occassionally and not letting it just SIT around.

Good Luck....

Tom; Have you ever owned a coach with a AQ or HH system?

Posted
22 hours ago, Paul A. said:

Tom; Have you ever owned a coach with a AQ or HH system?

Yes, 

going on 13 years.  Camelot has the 450 (D?) system.  Plus 13 years of daily reading posts for the older systems AH going back to the Ethylene glycol systems and the other brands.  

Is there some specific problem that I can help you with?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Merry Christmas all!

I've been a bit slammed the past few weeks and am just now circling back to my heater issue. I confirmed the hot water heater is a Hydro-Hot unit. I dusted off the RV and filled up the Diesel. Getting ready for a New years trip.

So this showed that the zone heaters work as the engine heats up and heats the zones. The diesel furnace seemed to be working today also. Not 100% sure on this as the engine heat keeps the zones running for a bit.

With it being intermittent up till now. I think the problem lies in one of the pumps.

Still not sure though and am open to input on how to chase it down.

  • Solution
Posted

Closed. This problem was from a bad thermostat. Replaced the thermostat and it's good to go. I've got new problems but what else is new.   The manual above is highly useful.

  • Like 1
Posted

Not a fan of the Dometic  Thermostats. They aren't easy to read either. I replaced it with a MicroAire unit. Like it so far. Haven't connected it to my phone yet though.

 

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