30 Amp - first timer soon

[Steve P]

OK, dumb question alert ---->>>>>   I'm fine when I have 50A service and all systems are supported, or when I'm just maintaining basic systems on a 20A outlet during the winter.  My problem is that I've never camped with only 30A service where I need "all" systems.  I know I probably have to set the Magnum remote panel in the center of the coach to 30A, but even before that, I'm unsure of what to do.  So I have a 30A male to 50A female short converter cord (2 ft).  I guess I plug that first, then I can plug my Progressive 50A power monitor into that, and then plug my 50A service cord from the coach into the Progressive?  After that, set the Magnum panel to 30A?  After that, I find myself down a mental cul de sac...  do I just have to be careful not to run both AC/heatpump's, or any equipment that produces a combined total of 24A (80% of 30A)?  And the Magnum panel display will tell me?  At what point will the breaker(s) trip if at all?  Also, If I run propane for heat (which only uses 12V, and fewer amps than the heat pump), does that save power?  Then, I ponder what the draw is for lighting and whether or not the charger kicks in to charge the house batteries.  Needless to say, I'm totally unsure of what to expect and what to do to manage power.  I'm sure there is a tutorial somewhere on YouTube, so if anyone can point me to that, it would be great.

BTW, I have no solar.

Thanks everyone,

Steve P

[jacwjames]

First question.

Do you have any type of Electrical Management System EMS?  On mine I have a small display that shows what type of power feed, 50 or 30 amp, the if on 30 maps will show that actual amps used.  The EMS will also shed certain circuits, in my case AC1, AC2, Washer/Dryer, and Water Heater!.

If you don't have an EMS you will have to manually control consumption.   Meaning probably 1 AC, Water heater on LP, Furnace if needed.  Without knowing the characteristics of how much power is consumed by appliance it's hard to say what you can use.   What does your microwave use, what do the entertainment centers use, refrigerator.  If you have a clamp type amp meter you might check the power at each breaker while running the appliances.  Make a cheat sheet and try to limit your consumption. 

My Progressive is hard wired and has a display showing amps used, I decided to install a second display in the coach so I can see my consumption. 

[Tom Cherry]

46 minutes ago, Steve P said:

OK, dumb question alert ---->>>>>   I'm fine when I have 50A service and all systems are supported, or when I'm just maintaining basic systems on a 20A outlet during the winter.  My problem is that I've never camped with only 30A service where I need "all" systems.  I know I probably have to set the Magnum remote panel in the center of the coach to 30A, but even before that, I'm unsure of what to do.  So I have a 30A male to 50A female short converter cord (2 ft).  I guess I plug that first, then I can plug my Progressive 50A power monitor into that, and then plug my 50A service cord from the coach into the Progressive?  After that, set the Magnum panel to 30A?  After that, I find myself down a mental cul de sac...  do I just have to be careful not to run both AC/heatpump's, or any equipment that produces a combined total of 24A (80% of 30A)?  And the Magnum panel display will tell me?  At what point will the breaker(s) trip if at all?  Also, If I run propane for heat (which only uses 12V, and fewer amps than the heat pump), does that save power?  Then, I ponder what the draw is for lighting and whether or not the charger kicks in to charge the house batteries.  Needless to say, I'm totally unsure of what to expect and what to do to manage power.  I'm sure there is a tutorial somewhere on YouTube, so if anyone can point me to that, it would be great.

BTW, I have no solar.

Thanks everyone,

Steve P

First THINGS First.  Your Magnum remote should ALWAYS be set to 30 Amps.  That is because it is “FED” with a 30 Amp breaker in the main panel.  So. Push SHORE and set it on 30.  It stays there regardless of the pedestal or whatever.

I  think you also need to read up and make sure your Magnum is set up properly.  So….this is what you need. From the SETUP….run through them.  Not necessarily in the order they will come up…

Search - kill or turn it off or disable.  It will shut off sensitive electronics needlessly,  you are FINE with it off.

Low Battery Cut Off.  Use 11.9.  

Low AC cutoff or protection, high as it will go…100 VAC is the max…memory

Flooded Cells, UNLESS you have AGM or something different

Amp Hours is 450.  You should have a bank of 4 batteries…..they will be 220 to 225….so that is two sets in parallel with two each in series,  The two in series gives 220….but you add in the second pair or the parallel and you have 450.

I suggest you use 70 or 80% charge rate.  Your inverter has some age on it.  I keep mine at 80.  It runs cooler.  Some might differ…but I do NOT recommend 100%.

I think that is the basics….the other are contrast and I never changed that nor the “power save” or when the monitor goes to sleep,

The 50 to 30, which will go to the pedestal.  Than the Surge Protector .  Than the 50 shore.  Have all three hooked up.  Turn OFF the 30A breaker.  Plug in and turn breaker on.

You PROBABLY have the Intellitec EMS.  It will display 30 AMP.  If not, push the button so it does.  THAT will handle your load shedding.  Don’t even think about washing machine….unless you only have ONE HVAC on.

If you have a Gas Refer….set it to PROPANE.  Turn OFF the icemaker.  Do NOT run the Microwave with EITHER HVAC on. Set your Water Heater to Propane.  Do NOT use any UNNEEDED or alternate 120 VAC.

You CAN reduce your AC Load after the House batteries are charged.  Turning it down to 20% will limit the current draw on the AC aside.  Just remember to turn it back up.  Just make sure the batteries are charged up before you leave.  A SNEAKY tip.  When you drive home or to another CG, use a Jumper Cable between the Positive on the House and Chassis.  THAT will charge the house as you drive.  BE CAREFUL.  Zip tie the jumper cable handles so they are firmly clamped and also don’t vibrate OFF and cause an issue.  You may have to be creative in routing the cable and THEN hook up each end.  I have done that in a pinch. 

By cutting down the charging rate…you MIGHT be able to run BOTH AC’s.  The other option is to carry a small table top recirculating fan.  I have one for days when the Sun is beaming down and my two AC’s can barely keep up.

Run your furnace.  The HP’s will not like being cycled ON and OFF frequently due to load shedding.

Thats about it 

BTW.  If your electric bikes need charging, use the PEDESTAL 120 VAC.  If they take DC and you have alligator clips, you use the house bank.  If  you plug in their charger to the MH, you steal valuable current from the 30 amp service.  Some enterprising folks have carried an extension cord and plugged their refrigerator into the Pedestal 120 VAC outlet.

I gave REAL consideration to putting a 120 VAC “Chinese” plug on the AC line inside the rear HVAC box.  Then would have run a 12 Gage extension cord from the pedestal…..assuming it was a 20 Amp and NOT a 15 amp.  Then hook up the REAR AC to the Pedestal….really “unique”….and make SURE that the Pedestal is rated at 20 Amps….
 

 

 

[Steve P]

Yes,  I have the EMS directly below the Magnum panel in the middle of the coach, pictured below.  It doesn't show any amp's in the load meter.  I also don't know what equipment the top 2 power status lights represent.  And does the EMS restore power to equipment, presumably in the reverse order?  I don't have a user manual for the EMS.

[Steve P]

@Tom Cherry Am I understanding correctly that even when I'm connected to 50A that the EMS should be set to 30A?  If so, what is the point of having a 50A option on the EMS?

THANK YOU for the detailed explanations of what to set up and what to do!   I'll get busy and convert it all to a checklist.  

Thanks - Steve P

[MurrayD]

You are way over thinking this. When you plug in to 30A your Intellitec will automatically recognize it, and indicate so (it doesn’t show current use when plugged into 50A). As you use power the Intellitec will show current being used and what isn’t powered based on available current. The Front AC light will likely go out on the panel and automatically prevent it from starting. While you’re using power for the microwave for example the Washer/dryer light will go out and prevent that being used. Experiment with your power use to see what you are currently using, based on readout on Intellitec. If necessary switch water heater and furnace to propane. The only breaker that may trip during this process is your pedestal breaker, simply go outside and reset it.

[Steve P]

30 minutes ago, MurrayD said:

You are way over thinking this. When you plug in to 30A your Intellitec will automatically recognize it, and indicate so (it doesn’t show current use when plugged into 50A). As you use power the Intellitec will show current being used and what isn’t powered based on available current. The Front AC light will likely go out on the panel and automatically prevent it from starting. While you’re using power for the microwave for example the Washer/dryer light will go out and prevent that being used. Experiment with your power use to see what you are currently using, based on readout on Intellitec. If necessary switch water heater and furnace to propane. The only breaker that may trip during this process is your pedestal breaker, simply go outside and reset it.

@MurrayD I'm an accomplished over thinker, do its a relief to know that I've done sho ohn this topic.  I'm checking the pedestal here tomorrow to see if I can plug into 30A and "practice".  Thanks! 

[jacwjames]

Check the main breaker panel, mine has the model of the EMS listed.  From there do an internet search for a manual. 

Probably wise to "practice" on a 30 amp power supply, figure out which load is shed first.   If you don't like the order you can easily change by swapping the order on the EMS control board.  Each of the breakers for the appliance that are shed are wired through the board. 

Usually one of the AC's is a priority load.

[Tom Cherry]

10 hours ago, Steve P said:

@Tom Cherry Am I understanding correctly that even when I'm connected to 50A that the EMS should be set to 30A?  If so, what is the point of having a 50A option on the EMS?

THANK YOU for the detailed explanations of what to set up and what to do!   I'll get busy and convert it all to a checklist.  

Thanks - Steve P

YES.  The rationale is that when you set your charging rate, it will then modulate the percentage of the load or charging to the charger and allow the rest of the load to be distributed to the House.

NOT TO OVERWHELM you…..but, here’s the reason and the number.

You, as well as most of us, have a 30 amp breaker bringing in power to the inverter.  Your internal receptacles and microwave are fed THROUGH the inverter.  You have to have a reasonable facsimile of a set of batteries hooked up and they are capable of being or receiving a charge for the inverter to work.  Folks have disconnected their house batteries and the said..LOST ALL INTERNAL POWER.  There is an Automatic Transfer Switch inside the inverter.  This ATS is controlled by “sensing or seeing a 12 VDC a set of batteries.  THEN, if you are plugged into a shore line, it sees or senses 120 VAC.  THEN, the ATS feeds a full 30 amps, your RATED CB incoming power on the Main AC panel.  

Here is the deal… 30 amps of AC will give you about 3,600 WATTS of power for the Internal AC outlets.  That is the same as having TWO 15 Amp (like at home) AC dedicated circuits.  That means you can run a microwave on one circuit and still have 2,000 watts or so for the other.  

NOW….when you are on battery power and “INVERTING”, you have, I assume, a 2,000 watt inverter.  That is ALL the AC capacity you have.  So, when you have AC, the inverter knows what it is “circuit protected” for and how to balance and allocate power.  So, a lower charging rate can be used to draw less amps,

NOW….your EMS is in the circuit for Load Shedding.  It runs the ENTIRE house….and it don’t know or care about the Inverter.  Turn on an AC, that has a startup of maybe 18 amps…..and then is running at 13 - 15 amps….then you only have enough amps (30 minus 15 for AC) to run the rest of the MH.  When the inverter is pulling max amps for charging that is upwards of 100 DC Amps @ say 14 VDC.  That is 1,400 watts or about 12 AC amps.  Bingos….your one AC and a fully loaded, 100% charge rate Bulk Charging Inverter is eating up 27 amps out of 30.  There ain’t much left.  Your microwave draws maybe 13 so so, so turn it on and bingo…the EMS sheds.

What you MAY not realize is that a 50 Amp 4 wire service is TWO incoming lines, each capable of supplying 50 amps…or a total of 100 amps.  So, in reality, you have a FULL 100 amps (divided by line 1 and line 2) of available power.  BUT a 30 Amp is a SINGLE LINE.  It only has 3 pins..  one HOT, one Neutral and Ground.  The 50 has Hot 1 and Hot 2 and Neutral and ground.

SO, a 30 amp service only gives you 30% of the watts or power or AC amps that a 50 amp pedestal does.  Some mistakenly think it is 60% or 30 divided by 50.  NOPE…it is 30 divided by 100 (total of Line 1 and Line 2).

If this is a bit “Greek”….read my first post and this one again.  It took me some time to digest all this and I have an electrical background.

Now you know…

 

[Bill R]

@Steve P  As a "one year" newbie, I had to struggle to understand ALL of the different electrical systems in my coach.  So I definitely feel our pain in getting a handle on all of this.

The key for me was to understand the differences in all of the systems as well as how they interact with each other.  For example, you have an Intellitec EMS (Energy Management System) which is what you have as a picture.  You also may have another EMS (Electrical Management System) that monitors the shore power.  And you have a Magnum Inverter/Charger with a Remote unit in the coach above the EMS.  The Magnum Remote is what I believe Tom is referring to that should be set to 30A in the settings.  There are many other systems too.

All that said, what I did to help understand all these systems, and you may have already, was to download all the manuals for all of these systems and read them carefully and multiple times.  They will inform you a lot on your systems.  You can either find them in the download section of this forum, or they are easily available on the internet.  Afterwards you can begin to learn also about the ATS (automatic transfer switch), Run Panels, etc.  These are VERY involved systems and having a basic understanding of what they all do and interact will go a long ways.  It did for me.  All the best.

[Steve P]

I think my head just exploded.  I am re- reading all posts and trying to digest...  I will have to re-read manuals too. Then practice.  Thanks Tom, Bill, Jim and Murray.  

[Tom Cherry]

At one time, I considered setting up a “head exploding crisis line” for new MH owners, with a sub line for “owned many RV & MH, but this Monaco is a MONSTER..”

Breathe deeply.  The redundancy and the interactions of the electrical systems on a Monaco have resulted, thankfully, in no “serious self inflicted body damage”, but they have also resulted in quick and high $$ loss transactions and folks exploring different hobbies and pursuits.

SERIOUSLY.  Do NOT feel like you are the only person that might not know the “stuff” that I and others posted.  BUT….you DID ask the question….and obviously want to know how to do it right and get the maximum enjoyment from your Monaco.

I hate to think how many times I have had to sit down and draw up a schematic or say…..now what happened.  If it makes you feel any better, I had a very interesting and “OMG….what happened” experience just this last Saturday.

SO….read it again.  No one has told you YET, but they will, to get a Digital Voltmeter and go to YouTube and learn how to use it.

The Monaco Manual is a great reference.  But there is no “top line”, that I have found “MH Electrical” made easy.  

I have threatened to make a PPT and put in what I posted….

You now should or Will understand more….and when something happens like….I AIN’T GO NO LIGHTS or POWER….at least you can figure it out or start to make sense of it.  You DID want to know.  No offense to anyone, but we get numerous posts where a slide will not go in and the CG manager needs a person to leave OR getting hooked up for a weeks stay and enjoyment and NO power or intermittent issues.  

You’ll be fine…. Or call….1-800-I HATE MY MH crisis line….LOL😂

[cbr046]

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

No one has told you YET, but they will, to get a Digital Voltmeter and go to YouTube and learn how to use it.

I'm sure there's some good basic videos out there.  Or just poke around with it. 

Just remember to never put a DVM in "ohms" mode then connect the leads across a voltage.  "Ohms" is strictly to measure how much resistance a component (wire, bulb, heating element, motor windings, etc) might have and is always measured with the component being disconnected.  Doing it with voltage applied could wreck the meter.  A bulb might appear to be short circuited (0 ohms) but gets resistance as the filament heats up . . . . except you can't measure resistance with power applied. 

Also, never measure across a voltage in "Amps" mode.  It won't ruin the meter but there'll be an internal fuse inside the DVM that will need replacing.  If you exceed the capacity of the meter it will also blow that internal fuse.  DVMs only measure DC amps and typically 10A max.  To measure AC amps you'll need a clamp-on type meter (the jaws open up and encircle the wire to be measured). 

Lastly, measuring 12V is pretty safe (you can grab - and + on a 12V battery and feel nothing) but pay attention around 120V aka "house voltage".  If you're uncomfortable with 120V connect one side at a time keeping the other hand in a safe place (like in your pocket) and not holding anything with the free hand, or turn power off, connect the DVM, then turn power back on.  With time you'll get more comfortable, just don't get complacent. 

Soon you'll be spitting out Ohm's Law, Kirchoff's Law, calculating phase currents, giving lectures on the difference between Delta and Y circuits and all sorts of stuff (just kidding).

- bob

[Steve P]

Thanks gentlemen.  I've come a long way in 30 months of owning this beast, but much is left to learn.  My electrical testing skills are st an intermediate level on a good day.  In this case, troubleshooting is not the problem.  A few operations clarifications are in order. 

First, my EMS has no AGS button, and I don't see LBCO and several related functions.   These are the ones on my Setup menu: Adj Search Watts, Adj Battery AHr, and Adj Batt Type.  

Second, unless I have to press the Inverter button to get menu items such as Charge Rate or VAC Dropout or Adjust Contrast, that's it except for the Shore button for Amp selection, and the Tech button with 4 unrelated sub-menus. 

I think this means that my EMS will switch to 30 Amps when I'm plugged into the 30A pedestal.  Will I have to monitor battery voltage manually with a voltmeter?  Or will the charger charge the house just like always and keep the batteries topped off?  The charger would of course continued for power with the other equipment, but I assume it gets first priority (i.e. it's the last thing subject to load shedding), correct?

Thanks, 

Steve

[jacwjames]

Not sure on your Magnum but I have AGS via my Trace Inverter panel.

The EMS will recognize the type of power you have, 50 amp, 30/20 amp, Generator.   There is a button on the load meter where you can switch it to 20 amp supply.  This would limit your total power draw to 20 amp so probably no AC if you press the button.

I don't have to do anything with my Trace inverter when hooked to shore power unless I want to change the charge amps.  Other then that the systems are simply plug and play.

Edited December 6, 2022 by jacwjames

[Tom Cherry]

OK....from the TOP.  Here is the manual you should have.  I THINK this one is close to your Manual....

https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/sites/default/files/MagArchive/64-0003-Rev-G-ME-RC_Web (1).pdf

Start around Page 29 and read HOW to use the buttons and the rotary selector. The settings that I listed are done from the SETUP button.  I gave you the EXACT setting or parameters to use.  Sort of like we used to say in the OLDEN days....programming a VCR.

There are about 8 or 9 parameters.  IF your remote is OLDER, then read HOW TO USE THE KNOBS AND BUTTONS in the first one and then here are the instructions for your older with the settings.  They will be the same.  Magnum keeps adding features each year....but your ORIGINAL remote is the basic.

https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/sites/default/files/64-0003 Rev 2 (ME-RC).pdf

It is really not practical to do a One-On-One instruction online.  If you read the manual and then understand the setup or how to do it, I have given you the basic settings....as I remember from my older Magnum.

YES....you have NOTHING to do with the EMS, except to make sure it has the 30 Amp light on....if 20, toggle it to 30.  It does the REST and it does NOT chit chat or talk to the Magnum.

If you run into a problem, then that is best handled off line as to HOW to use the remote and program.  PM me or some of the individuals and you will need phone help,.

The BEST phone help is to call Magnum direct....they have great folks and they do it quickly and answer questions.  That is how the bulk of us learned.

Good Luck.

 

 

Frank's File Magnum Energy Owners Manual 64-0007 Rev A (MS Series) (3).pdf

[Steve P]

On 12/5/2022 at 9:52 PM, Tom Cherry said:

First THINGS First.  Your Magnum remote should ALWAYS be set to 30 Amps.  That is because it is “FED” with a 30 Amp breaker in the main panel.  So. Push SHORE and set it on 30.  It stays there regardless of the pedestal or whatever.  SP - my panel has a 50A breaker.

I  think you also need to read up and make sure your Magnum is set up properly.  So….this is what you need. From the SETUP….run through them.  Not necessarily in the order they will come up…

Search - kill or turn it off or disable.  It will shut off sensitive electronics needlessly,  you are FINE with it off.  SP- mine was at 5 watts

Low Battery Cut Off.  Use 11.9.  SP- l have no such setting on my Magnum

Low AC cutoff or protection, high as it will go…100 VAC is the max…memory  SP- no such setting

Flooded Cells, UNLESS you have AGM or something different. SP- currently Flooded although they look sealed like AGM

Amp Hours is 450.  You should have a bank of 4 batteries…..they will be 220 to 225….so that is two sets in parallel with two each in series,  The two in series gives 220….but you add in the second pair or the parallel and you have 450.  SP-set to 400, then menu jumps to 600

I suggest you use 70 or 80% charge rate.  Your inverter has some age on it.  I keep mine at 80.  It runs cooler.  Some might differ…but I do NOT recommend 100%.  SP- no such setting

I think that is the basics….the other are contrast and I never changed that nor the “power save” or when the monitor goes to sleep,

The 50 to 30, which will go to the pedestal.  Than the Surge Protector .  Than the 50 shore.  Have all three hooked up.  Turn OFF the 30A breaker.  Plug in and turn breaker on.  SP- good on this

You PROBABLY have the Intellitec EMS.  It will display 30 AMP.  If not, push the button so it does.  THAT will handle your load shedding.  Don’t even think about washing machine….unless you only have ONE HVAC on.  SP- understood

If you have a Gas Refer….set it to PROPANE.  Turn OFF the icemaker.  Do NOT run the Microwave with EITHER HVAC on. Set your Water Heater to Propane.  Do NOT use any UNNEEDED or alternate 120 VAC. SP- understood

You CAN reduce your AC Load after the House batteries are charged.  Turning it down to 20% will limit the current draw on the AC aside.  Just remember to turn it back up.  Just make sure the batteries are charged up before you leave.  A SNEAKY tip.  When you drive home or to another CG, use a Jumper Cable between the Positive on the House and Chassis.  THAT will charge the house as you drive.  BE CAREFUL.  Zip tie the jumper cable handles so they are firmly clamped and also don’t vibrate OFF and cause an issue.  You may have to be creative in routing the cable and THEN hook up each end.  I have done that in a pinch. SP- wil postpone doing anything in this paragraph (walk before I run)

By cutting down the charging rate…you MIGHT be able to run BOTH AC’s.  The other option is to carry a small table top recirculating fan.  I have one for days when the Sun is beaming down and my two AC’s can barely keep up. SP- again, postpone

Run your furnace.  The HP’s will not like being cycled ON and OFF frequently due to load shedding. SP- will do

Thats about it 

BTW.  If your electric bikes need charging, use the PEDESTAL 120 VAC.  If they take DC and you have alligator clips, you use the house bank.  If  you plug in their charger to the MH, you steal valuable current from the 30 amp service.  Some enterprising folks have carried an extension cord and plugged their refrigerator into the Pedestal 120 VAC outlet.  SP- clever, duly, will do 

I gave REAL consideration to putting a 120 VAC “Chinese” plug on the AC line inside the rear HVAC box.  Then would have run a 12 Gage extension cord from the pedestal…..assuming it was a 20 Amp and NOT a 15 amp.  Then hook up the REAR AC to the Pedestal….really “unique”….and make SURE that the Pedestal is rated at 20 Amps….  SP- think I'll pass 
 

 

 

Questions/comments inline

 

[Tom Cherry]

10 hours ago, Steve P said:

Questions/comments inline

 

Not exactly sure what your question/answers in-line means.  This is your Intellitec 50Amp panel that is controlled but the EMS system.  It does not cross talk or interact with the Magnum.  The 30 amp breaker is what you have and why you ALWAYS set the Shore to 30 when you are hooked up to a 50 amp, 30 amp or Generator.

NOW….more head exploding factoids.  If you use a lower rated source, like a 15 or 20 amp NON GFCI receptacle, then use the SHORE button and TEMPORARILY a set the amperage to whatever the amp rating of the receptacle is.  You HAVE to KNOW what that receptacle is rated at.

NOW…to make it easy.  The Photo is a GFCI (note the test and reset buttons).  Magnum has it is very difficult, and myself and many others can attest to that, to make a GFCI an outlet supply 120 VAC 15 or 20 Amp work.  You may have to set the incoming amps to as low as 5…. So..it is typically NOT worth the trouble.

NOW….let’s deal the the picture.  Look at the outlet on the left….and the arrow.  That “T Slot” identifies ANY 120VAC outlet as a 20 AMP outlet.  The one of the RIGHT a has no T slot.  Therefor it is a 15 Amp outlet.  So, look at the type of outlet that you are going to use with the 120 vac adapter.  Then set the shore to that rating.

NOW….a word of caution.  Many garages or homes have a single GFCI a circuit breaker in the main panel for a garage or outside outlet….so a plain NON GFCI outlet in your garage or outside is OR should be protected in the main panel.  So, if your MH trips a GFCI controlled outlet, NOTHING is wrong.  I tried for an hour to reduce the current setting on two different GFCI outlets and never got power.  

[Steve P]

Tom - if you expand the response I sent, there are my questions/comments embedded throughout it.  Each one is preceded by "SP-"

Thanks for all your input. I'll sort this out eventually with some further insight. 

One other thing -- I'm still having some difficulty understanding what the purpose is of having a Shore 50A setting.  The EMS defaults to this when I plug into a 50A service pedestal.  Why would I want to start shedding load at 30 amps?

Thanks, 

Steve P

[jacwjames]

My EMS senses when I'm hooked to a 50 amp source and/or generator and don't have to do anything but it will show this on the display as to source type.  When hooked to the 50 amp the load meter will not show anything.  When generator is running it will show amps, it uses a sense wire to know it is getting power from the generator, in my case it is the blue wire from the hour meter.  This wire goes through the inverter wiring, to the BIRD location, my rear generator start button and then to the EMS board. 

On a 30 or 20 amp power source the EMS will recognize this, you can choose between 30 or 20 amp.  This is when the EMS will start shedding power. 

[Steve P]

Jim - I don't know the wiring, but the behavior you described sounds very much like mine.

[Tom Cherry]

11 hours ago, Steve P said:

Tom - if you expand the response I sent, there are my questions/comments embedded throughout it.  Each one is preceded by "SP-"

Thanks for all your input. I'll sort this out eventually with some further insight. 

One other thing -- I'm still having some difficulty understanding what the purpose is of having a Shore 50A setting.  The EMS defaults to this when I plug into a 50A service pedestal.  Why would I want to start shedding load at 30 amps?

Thanks, 

Steve P

Yes, I missed the SP “COMMENTS”.  I did read this again.  So here goes….

Search watts should be OFF. That drives folks crazy as it will some devices to shut down and needlessly reboot.  Magnum agrees.  Having it OFF causes no issues.

Remote had 50 Amp setting.  The remote will work for a larger Magnum.  So, it is a feature that is there for other models.  Magnum also makes other voltage (battery size) inverters.  It will work for them.  This is a “quasi” universal remote.  Fortunate, the Remote does a “handshake” with the inverter and at least knows if it is 12, 24 or maybe 36….maybe a plain 6 VDC…..but you don’t have to set that

You set, PER, the manual, the Amperage of the inverter’s upstream protection…which is 30 amps….UNLESS you are using a lower amperage source like a 15 amp receptacle.

Turning down the charging rate for max 30 amp usage addresses one of your earlier questions and also keeps you from constantly banging on and off the AC’s.  If you are running both AC’s and the rear gets shedded, REPEATEDLY.  STOP.  Turn off the blinking thing.  The EMS has a wiring goof that Intellitec told Monaco about….but Monaco never corrected it.  All you are doing when one AC (or in HP an odd) sheds is shortening the life of the AC as well as the actual EMS printed circuit board.  I could cause a nuclear holocaust in your head if I tried to explain.  So either take that at face value or keep shedding an AC and then get to replace the EMS module as a bonus for continuing to abuse the system.  That’s a fact of life.

As I said, I don’t know what specific settings your remote has.  All I can say is that the LBCO and Low AC has been on most Magnums.  Make sure you scroll slowly through the settings.  It is easy to jump.  EDIT.  I reviewed the older manual I sent you.  It DOES  have the Low Battery Cuf Off and Low AC drop out settings.

Battery amp hours.  Use the 400.  The newer remotes have more options with smaller ranges.

that’s it….

 

 

[Dick Roberts]

I'm  in the process of buying my first MH, a 99 Diplomat 38A. I know it has electrical issues, and after reading this thread I have very serious doubts about my sanity. DamnItMan, I just wanted to go camping. 🙂

 

[Tom Cherry]

12 minutes ago, Dick Roberts said:

I'm  in the process of buying my first MH, a 99 Diplomat 38A. I know it has electrical issues, and after reading this thread I have very serious doubts about my sanity. DamnItMan, I just wanted to go camping. 🙂

 

A very WISE former member once used this analogy when someone was very distraught about something regarding his MH.  It was a simple 5 step procedure to bleed off the power brake vacuum reservoir so he would be able to use a common braking device.  They went back and forth…finally, the skirmish ended…. “If you are perplexed by reading the instructions and following the directions for installing your auxiliary braking system….perhaps you should reconsider your choice of hobbies”.  

NOW…don’t take that in any offensive manner.  We all had to start and learn.  But, owning a MH does require a higher level of electrical skills and the ability to trouble shoot and use a VOM.  I would suggest you reread the posts.  If a 30 amp adapter is used, then there are some very minor steps required in the setup of the inverter.  Once you understand that there is a difference between a 50 amp and a 30 amp service….then you are on your way.  A 50 amp service is actually TWO lines or sides.  It will deliver 100 (50 + 50) amps.  A 30 amp service is only ONE Line or side….so it will deliver 30 amps and all the AC’s and such require or were designed for 50 amp pedestals.  If you manage or use the devices correctly and limit the current flow to 30 amps, no problem.

The only other advice is that someone saying “minor electrical issues” needs to be defined and one should have a quote or estimate to totally repair.  There are checklists and also dealers that will do inspections and you have a good idea of the cost and complexity.  Remember, a MH has an electrical Chassis (starts the engine and controls all the things similar to a car) system.  It also has a “House” system.  There are actually TWO house systems….a 12 Volt DC and a 120 Volt AC system.  

The majority of our posts, I dare say, are for electrical issues….so starting with a functional system if you are not well versed in electrical trouble shooting would be my advice.   

COME ON IN….the water is fine….  Welcome aboard….we all learn here….and all the members are great and share and help out…

[cbr046]

9 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

There are actually TWO house systems….a 12 Volt DC and a 120 Volt AC system.  

One could actually say THREE systems - 12VDC for chassis (engine, etc), 12VDC for coach (lights, exhaust fans, 120VAC inverter) and 120VAC for coach (air conditioning, microwave (realistically), charging house batteries).  I'm not including the engine block heater as a fourth system as it's simply a plug to an element.  Refrigerators can run on 12VDC or 120VAC, unless replaced by "residential" type fridge and hot water heaters run on 12VDC controlling propane and / or 120VAC heating element .  Furnaces run on 12VDC controlling propane.  The roof AC's double as heat pumps.  And then there's aqua hot systems . . . .

I'm stopping there.  The more I think of it the more complex it gets!  KISS!

- bob