Jump to content

Exhaust Manifold


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, BradHend said:

I think I just view #6 differently than proper.  It’s on the end of the large piece.  So, #1 then. 

Brad - I actually had it reversed.  You had it correct, large end has cylinders 3-6, small end 1-2, joint of the two sections between 2 & 3.  Looked up some diagrams and watched a video.  At least I straightened myself out.  No help to you though.  All the best on getting your very unique exhaust manifold.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Understand all of us want to pay a fair price for a product. 
 

sometimes we get in a pinch, like your manifold. Small mom and Pop shops are still out there that charge reasonable rates for their work. Several shops will still do custom work at fair prices. 
 

contact WILES WELDING and Machine, Paris TN  731-642-2777  

They are the best cast iron welding outfit I know of. They specialize in big rig driveshaft building, cast iron welding, machining and fabrication. 
 

Tell them your delima and ask for Mr Wiles, don't know if he is still active in the shop but they have a great reputation and have been in the business for over 40 years. Suggest sending them your manifold for repair. They have built custom parts for diesel pulling tractors and many other projects. 
 

thx

 

Tim

2000 Ralph Lauren Country Club edition Dynasty 

2019 Ram limited toad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Understand all of us want to pay a fair price for a product. 
 

sometimes we get in a pinch, like your manifold. Small mom and Pop shops are still out there that charge reasonable rates for their work. Several shops will still do custom work at fair prices. 
 

contact WILES WELDING and Machine, Paris TN  731-642-2777  

They are the best cast iron welding outfit I know of. They specialize in big rig driveshaft building, cast iron welding, machining and fabrication. 
 

Tell them your delima and ask for Mr Wiles, don't know if he is still active in the shop but they have a great reputation and have been in the business for over 40 years. Suggest sending them your manifold for repair. They have built custom parts for diesel pulling tractors and many other projects. 
 

ALSO CONTACT 4 states truck.com. In Joplin Missouri 

855-220-8608 and give them the Cummins part number if you have it. They have a similar 

(from the picture shown) part on their website. Maybe they can help. Listed price not including shipping to Canada ---US dollars $249.88  positive prices will vary as well as delivery time but sometimes it is what it is  

 

thx

 

Tim

2000 Ralph Lauren Country Club edition Dynasty 

2019 Ram limited toad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, BradHend said:

I’ve talked to at least 4 tuning shops, all claim they aren’t able to due to the year of my engine.  ‘07 and up no problem. 

If your engine date falls between 2004 (2004.5 as it is often called) and 2007, it would use an "in cylinder EGR. That is accomplished mainly by exhaust valve timing to keep small portion of exhaust gases in the cylinder, without external parts. So yeah there is no delete kit and changing it would be quite a bit involed. Have you tried Non RV junk yards? These 5.9s were used in tons of early dodge trucks before 6.7 came in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cummins quickserve states my engine was built 2004-09-16. I have also heard conflicting stories from many experts that my engines EGR system is in cylinder and the only way to delete is to change the cam, but I think the manifold and the valve attached to it speaks for itself…I had one shop owner get verbally upset with me claiming my 5.9 doesn’t even have an EGR and it was never an option.  It’s been pretty fun dealing with this manifold.  
I just can’t believe or understand why my setup is so “unique”.

8792B1A3-3DC3-46CB-BA6A-A36FA584928E.png

Edited by BradHend
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unique is right, some motorhome/industrial specialty version? So the block off could be added past the cooler that you wouldn't need anymore but ECM could be the next problem if no one knows how to modify it. As mentioned by others, I would look for someone to add some metal and milling to the warped flange or at least fabricate and fit a spacer in the meantime. Wish you good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Ray Davis

FWIW when I had a Cat engine which has a one piece manifold I took it to a friend that had a horizontal belt sander with a long bed and we trued it up that way, worked great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Just got off the phone with Cummins.  I can’t tell you all how happy I am to say that the “Emergency Part Order” worked, and it is now waiting for pickup at the Mississauga Location in Ontario.  This has been a long time coming, folks.  What a relief!!  The other section of the two-piece manifold, the bolts, the gaskets etc. are all in stock and ready to ship, just need to put the order in.  Literally got back today from our Christmas holiday in Florida - I called and stopped in to probably over 30 salvage yards and parts places that showed up all along the I-75 from Michigan to Florida, nobody had this part.  Quite a nice surprise on the home voicemail when I got home 🤗.  If only this happened a little sooner, I could have stuck to the plan and taken the Coach to the Disney Park we had booked for over a year.  Next year it is. 😉

Edited by BradHend
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

We have developed an exhaust gasket leak in our 82000 mile, 2005 8.3 Cummins.  I use a pretty large well respected independent shop.  They informed me that there is a very slim chance that a gasket alone will solve the problem.  They also say that milling the header is pretty much not possible.

Anybody got a thought as to the likely credibility of those two remarks?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Although my engine is an ISL, I was able to mill my manifold straight on my Bridgeport with a simple fly cutter. I actually did two and got them flat enough that I couldn’t get a .002 feeler gauge between my mill table and the flanges. I think any reasonable machine shot could do this.

0D998EF5-32BC-4A88-BD09-23BA45EB2A6D.jpeg

102B9B2D-E115-4FE8-BD3A-FC37CC5A676A.jpeg

C986302D-8A8D-4F11-98FF-71913F8CEDC0.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will take that to mean maybe we call BS on cant be milled

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, RNMCBR said:

Although my engine is an ISL, I was able to mill my manifold straight on my Bridgeport with a simple fly cutter. I actually did two and got them flat enough that I couldn’t get a .002 feeler gauge between my mill table and the flanges. I think any reasonable machine shot could do this.

0D998EF5-32BC-4A88-BD09-23BA45EB2A6D.jpeg

102B9B2D-E115-4FE8-BD3A-FC37CC5A676A.jpeg

C986302D-8A8D-4F11-98FF-71913F8CEDC0.jpeg

I agree. You can see the setup is pretty simple. I just took a little fiddling with an indicator to get it oriented horizontal to the mill table. An experienced machinist could do this in a few minutes.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a Ford Class C with the 460.  This was a 1997 model purchased new and within ~9 months the passenger side manifold cracked and replaced under warranty by Ford, it took ~4 months because they had a manufacturing issue with the manifold and had lots of failures, none in stock anywhere in USA.  I asked for an extension of warranty because of time in the shop but was denied.  I then lost the drivers side ~3 months of getting the RV back and replaced with after market myself>>>Ford refused to do it even with the amount of time the rig was in the shop the first time and also knowing they had a manufacturing problem.   

The passenger side manifold which was replaced under warranty then warped, out of warranty so I decided to just have it machined.  Luckily I had contacts at my former employer who had access to a huge machine shop with a large milling machine.  The shop foreman was very good and a car builder so he set the manifold up and machined it flat.  I reinstalled and all was good, I sold the Class C to my mechanics father who still has it. 

So yes a good machine shop with competent machinists can true up a warped manifold. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Ray Davis
12 hours ago, TomV48 said:

They also say that milling the header is pretty much not possible.

I think they're saying they don't want to mess with doing that.     Chances are they can't do it themselves.  

I'm a hobby machinest and really appreciate the job Roy did above.  However as I stated in a post above precision is not that important on these manifolds.  They get red hot, expand, & contract so a precision machineing is not precision for long.  I ground mine on a belt sander with a steel flat bed, worked great 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

I think they're saying they don't want to mess with doing that.     Chances are they can't do it themselves.  

I'm a hobby machinest and really appreciate the job Roy did above.  However as I stated in a post above precision is not that important on these manifolds.  They get red hot, expand, & contract so a precision machineing is not precision for long.  I ground mine on a belt sander with a steel flat bed, worked great 

I agree.  A couple thousandths off won't matter.  Once bolted to the head it will conform.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Been reading more.  Looks like it was a $1500-$2000 job five or eight years ago and as we all know cost of everything has been skyrocketing 30 to 50%

At current shop rates (nah, at 75 I'm not going to begin a career as a diesel mechanic) between cost to "mill" plus the safety/risk of going new, it seems legit that they quote a new manifold.  It's a big well equipped shop with typically half dozen engines opened up and out on blocks so I'm guessing if a replacement can't be gotten, they can mill or at least "dress" the surface. 

They leave open that a new gasket may be all needed , but said they don't want me to count on it. But new parts are probably a safer bet for their warranty for their work.  

Read good suggestions re: removing the bed stuff and maybe application of penetrant on bolts.  Got to think how that would work and still get it to the shop.

Plus now im gonna be opening it up from the top to re-access degree of leak.

Thanks for the feedback 

Edited by TomV48
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, TomV48 said:

Been reading more.  Looks like it was a $1500-$2000 job five or eight years ago and as we all know cost of everything has been skyrocketing 30 to 50%

At current shop rates (nah, at 75 I'm not going to begin a career as a diesel mechanic) between cost to "mill" plus the safety/risk of going new, it seems legit that they quote a new manifold.  It's a big well equipped shop with typically half dozen engines opened up and out on blocks so I'm guessing if a replacement can't be gotten, they can mill or at least "dress" the surface. 

They leave open that a new gasket may be all needed , but said they don't want me to count on it. But new parts are probably a safer bet for their warranty for their work.  

Read good suggestions re: removing the bed stuff and maybe application of penetrant on bolts.  Got to think how that would work and still get it to the shop.

Plus now im gonna be opening it up from the top to re-access degree of leak.

Thanks for the feedback 

Start spraying the bolts with PB Blaster or similar every day until you take it in.
Anything that helps get those bolts out intact will save the shop time, and you money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:

Start spraying the bolts with PB Blaster or similar every day until you take it in.
Anything that helps get those bolts out intact will save the shop time, and you money.

Thanks. That was what I am contemplating.  Worried that if the penetrant burns I could be making a fire hazard or a big mess.  Have to take it about 20 highway miles to the shop. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, TomV48 said:

Thanks. That was what I am contemplating.  Worried that if the penetrant burns I could be making a fire hazard or a big mess.  Have to take it about 20 highway miles to the shop. 

I'm not sure if PB Blaster is flammable, but the small amount of penetrant that doesn't run off will evaporate before becoming a fire hazard.  You'll get some smoke as it burns off, but it shouldn't get to the point of actually flaring up.
The heat will also help the PB Blaster to loosen the bolts on the drive over.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...