Bay Heater Repair

[klcdenver]

For those of you needing your bay heater repaired below is the info for the company that took over the older bay heaters. I sent one there about 3-4 years ago. They replaced the heating elements. It came back looking like a new one and cost was $25.00.

 Family Safety Products

2879 Remico St SW

Grandville, MI 49418

616-530-6540

 

[Tom Cherry]

7 minutes ago, klcdenver said:

For those of you needing your bay heater repaired below is the info for the company that took over the older bay heaters. I sent one there about 3-4 years ago. They replaced the heating elements. It came back looking like a new one and cost was $25.00.

 Family Safety Products

2879 Remico St SW

Grandville, MI 49418

616-530-6540

 

If all they did was replace the ONE SHOT or module that failed, then you will probably get at least one cycle out of it.  This is a long standing issue.  

https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=Heater&quick=1&type=downloads_file

Frank McElroy and I spent a lot of time working on this.  The heaters were modified due to a safety hazard and their legal counsel insisted on a fail safe.  But, it was never tested…..just speced out and put into production.  I spent a long time on the phone with the lady in charge of testing and repairs.  She is “the quality control” department.  She said they never had any issues with the old units,  Also, that when the new ones come in….the only ones that break….all she does is put in a new fuse or one shot module and tests them….and ships them out.

Here is the real fix for it.  It is recommended that you test and cycle the unit several times.  Depending on the repaired new heater could jeopardize your protection.  

Your model year probably has the newer unit.  You can tear it apart and if there is a “device” on one of the leads…..see our pictures as to where we installed the correct “thermal fuse”, then you have one of newer and “safer” units.  The older ones had the heating element wired directly.  If yours has a “crimped” on component….bingo the faulty fuse,

Hope this makes sense…..

BTW, we offered to share the tests and findings,,,,.,but the owners were not interested…..  the company was “minority owned” per the quality control and was going through some financial difficulties and had trimmed staff.  The only technical person, the designer, was laid off…

[cbr046]

For those DYI'ers . . . . I took a different approach, split the heating element bank of 5 elements into 2 banks and installed TWO "one shots" (the 184C / 20A thermal / electrical fuse).  Well, one of the fuses blew anyway.  It could have been:

1.)  The vice gripped crimp might not have been that great and resistance in the crimp generated heat which worked it's way to the fuse.  I tried to crimp the edges to draw the crimp down against the wires but, like John Steinbeck the best laid plans of mice and men oft go awry. ~or~

2.)  The fuse was too close to the output of the heater allowing heated air to blow too close to the fuse. 

I replaced the fuse (no Tom, I still haven't bought a ultra heavy duty crimper), repositioned the fuse away from heat and put a bit of heat shrink around the fuse.  I've tested it but not overnight.  Time will tell, and soon!  Looking at temps in the 20's later this week. 

 

12 hours ago, klcdenver said:

For those of you needing your bay heater repaired below is the info for the company that took over the older bay heaters. I sent one there about 3-4 years ago. They replaced the heating elements. It came back looking like a new one and cost was $25.00.

 Family Safety Products

2879 Remico St SW

Grandville, MI 49418

616-530-6540

 

But this resource is GREAT!  Thanks @klcdenver

- bob

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, cbr046 said:

For those DYI'ers . . . . I took a different approach, split the heating element bank of 5 elements into 2 banks and installed TWO "one shots" (the 184C / 20A thermal / electrical fuse).  Well, one of the fuses blew anyway.  It could have been:

1.)  The vice gripped crimp might not have been that great and resistance in the crimp generated heat which worked it's way to the fuse.  I tried to crimp the edges to draw the crimp down against the wires but, like John Steinbeck the best laid plans of mice and men oft go awry. ~or~

2.)  The fuse was too close to the output of the heater allowing heated air to blow too close to the fuse. 

I replaced the fuse (no Tom, I still haven't bought a ultra heavy duty crimper), repositioned the fuse away from heat and put a bit of heat shrink around the fuse.  I've tested it but not overnight.  Time will tell, and soon!  Looking at temps in the 20's later this week. 

 

But this resource is GREAT!  Thanks @klcdenver

- bob

hey....whatever works.  Frank said that the ratchetting crimper (his was hydraulic) was a must.  I used a mechanical ratcheting crimper and mine works.  I actually have it as a backup as I run the AH and that comes on quicker.

[jfasano88]

On 12/14/2022 at 9:09 PM, Tom Cherry said:

If all they did was replace the ONE SHOT or module that failed, then you will probably get at least one cycle out of it.  This is a long standing issue.  

https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=Heater&quick=1&type=downloads_file

Frank McElroy and I spent a lot of time working on this.  The heaters were modified due to a safety hazard and their legal counsel insisted on a fail safe.  But, it was never tested…..just speced out and put into production.  I spent a long time on the phone with the lady in charge of testing and repairs.  She is “the quality control” department.  She said they never had any issues with the old units,  Also, that when the new ones come in….the only ones that break….all she does is put in a new fuse or one shot module and tests them….and ships them out.

Here is the real fix for it.  It is recommended that you test and cycle the unit several times.  Depending on the repaired new heater could jeopardize your protection.  

Your model year probably has the newer unit.  You can tear it apart and if there is a “device” on one of the leads…..see our pictures as to where we installed the correct “thermal fuse”, then you have one of newer and “safer” units.  The older ones had the heating element wired directly.  If yours has a “crimped” on component….bingo the faulty fuse,

Hope this makes sense…..

BTW, we offered to share the tests and findings,,,,.,but the owners were not interested…..  the company was “minority owned” per the quality control and was going through some financial difficulties and had trimmed staff.  The only technical person, the designer, was laid off…