Air brake system for flat towing. I have air line to the back wondering what brake system might work?

[rustykramermetalfab]

I have a 2006 Dynasty. Previous owner passed but flat towed something. Coach had old Blue ox tow bar included.  I am just not sure what brake system he installed on the towed vehicle. The blue air line shown is plumbed from what must be an air distribution/regulator of some type just in front of the drive axel. (It is a little confusing to see the connection since he looped excess blue air hose.)  I tested the system with an air pressure gauge connected to the air outlet on the rear of the coach and when I press the brake pedal it builds air pressure to the gauge. 
I have been searching the records I have, but unable to find any evidence of what brand or type of braking system was on the towed vehicle.  I called Air Force one and they advise their braking system must be plumbed with the provided tank they use. I do not see a tank anywhere, just the air line attached as shown. Can anyone advise what type or brand of braking system might have been used based on the air line set up shown?  Thanks for any help. 

[willbo777]

I have a M&G braking system that uses that fitting on the back of our rig.

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, willbo777 said:

I have a M&G braking system that uses that fitting on the back of our rig.

EDIT…….  I just read your comment about pulling a 32’ Race Car Trailer.  If your trailer has air brakes….then it will work.  If not, then I don’t see any practical way to modify it.  An electric brake trailer or a travel trailer or horse trailer needs a “modulated” source of 12 VDC so you can adjust the pulse or the voltage to get it in sync with the towing vehicles braking.  The air line is strictly on or off and the two braking systems, AirForceOne and M&G are set up for a 100+PSI input.  The M&G is made to be “regulated” to a specific vehicle and that weight is known.  the AirForceOne is universal with an actuator cylinder that “PROBABLY” has an inline regulator to adjust for different weight ranges.

NOW…in 2000, Monaco did NOT include a dedicated line for the brake controller’s signal or actuating voltage to the electric brakes. There are SUPPOSEDLY some spare wires in the harness…but they are hard to find and another same year Dynasty owner will have to help you.  My “bet”, you have electric brakes on the trailer….so you install a conventional Trailer Brake Control unit and run a wire.  There are some topics or threads here on finding the right brake switch for the controller’s brake pedal wire.

OK…..end of edit…..now to the Air Brake Controller explanation of what you have…..  wish I had been more observant first….

AirforceOne and M&G are the two systems, there may be others, that use the MH air for braking.  If there is an additional component used, then it is probably an AirForceOne.  Google the AirforceOne website.  They have another component, that they feel better protects the braking system should the line fail.  

I chose the M&G and just put in a “T” per their instructions.  I have used the M&G for the last 6 years and logged over 30K on it,  I love it.  No offense to the AirForceOne, but you have to hook up an air cylinder inside the TOAD.  I like simplicity.  The M&G bolts on between the power brake canister and the Master cylinder.  I purchased one of their factory trade ins which they refurbished and guarantee.

Not all vehicles will work with the M&G abased on the layout of the engine compartment and the available spacing.  One word of caution; as you did not include your TOAD info.  If you have an “electric brake system and want to use the air line, you need to determine if the electric brake module, which is part of the ABS system Is “live” as in it has fulltime 12 VDC so that when the brake pedal is pushed, presumably from some type of actuator inside the drivers area, does the electric brakes come on or are you brute force pushing the non power assisted master cylinder.  Hummers did that as well as some other brands.  these systems require some unique modifications or understanding to function properly.  For example, my previous H3 Hummer was made for maybe 6 years.  But in the last 3 years, maybe 2007 and on, the ABS Electric system was “cold” so you had to provide a 12 VDC source to the ABS system….and that also required a diode in the the system as the 12 from the US Gear system would blow the ABS fuse.  Properly installed, it  worked great….but it blew away a lot of folks until they actually read up on it.  So, many of the cylinder operated systems would not work.  If your tow vehicle has an electric brake and you choose air, you will need to go with the AirForceOne.  If you need the electric (power assisted) system to have power, then you will need an air operated solenoid that “closes” a switch.  The. You provide 12 VDC power and when the air comes on, you have an auxiliary 12VDC to the electric brake module.

MY ONLY OTHER ADVICE.  Disconnect the air line.  Cut off one end and then get a piece of 3/8” RUBBER air line.  Use it as a piece of “conduit” and run the small plastic air line inside it.  That gives you some protection for the line.  I did not feel comfortable with a single thin wall piece of PVC line being exposed to road debris or potential chafing or abrading.

Good Luck….keep us posted on what you do.
 

 

 

[jacwjames]

What are you trying to tow?  

My coach had about the same connections when I bought it.  I tow a Jeep GC and decided to go with the Roadmaster Brakemaster 9160.   Once installed it is fairly easy to install/remove the air cylinder that pushes the brake pedal to stop the Jeep.  This system isn't for everyone but works for me.

[Ray Davis]

Edit  Tom is right, 32 ft trailer is hidden down in your signature.  So if you plan to pull a toad sometimes and a trailer at other times  you will need 2 brake controlers.  My coach has a trailer brake controler installed by the PO.  I have never used it though. 

I like the M&G brake as well, but yrs ago the toad we had at that time didn't have sufficent room for it to fit so I bought a Roadmaster Brakemaster.     It is super simple and I can use it on 2 different toads, however it does require me to attache the cylinder to the brake pedal, takes about a minute.     It should connect right up to your air connection on your coach.  The cylinder on the right is an air resivour to activate the brake in case of a toad   break away.

 

 

 

Edited January 1 by Ray Davis

[rustykramermetalfab]

Thanks for the info so far. I should have given more details and stated I plan to flat tow a 2015 GMC Yukon. The Yukon has the disconnect on the dash knob that controls 2WD 4WD H L etc.   The Yukon has nothing installed so I will need to install a base plate and buy a tow bar. The Blue ox is pretty old and no parts are available to freshen it up. I Like the new nighthawk Road-master as far as a tow bar goes.    E trailer recommended the Blue ox base plate for the Yukon.  

My Trailer is just an electric brake set up and I used a Teconsha P3 controller on my 2000 Dynasty that I will install in the 2006 for the trailer.  

 

I have looked only at the Air Force system so I will check out M&G also. 

Thank you for the input if you have any further suggestions based on my added details please post.

 

 

[Frank Bergamo]

M&G for me also. Great braking system! After initial install, very simple and quick to hook/unhook toad. Highly recommend!

[Bill R]

I installed the Roadmaster that Ray posted.   So far very happy.  RoadMaster has great videos on doing the installation.   Also very competitive pricing.   Many options out there. All the best.  

[Tom Cherry]

4 hours ago, rustykramermetalfab said:

Thanks for the info so far. I should have given more details and stated I plan to flat tow a 2015 GMC Yukon. The Yukon has the disconnect on the dash knob that controls 2WD 4WD H L etc.   The Yukon has nothing installed so I will need to install a base plate and buy a tow bar. The Blue ox is pretty old and no parts are available to freshen it up. I Like the new nighthawk Road-master as far as a tow bar goes.    E trailer recommended the Blue ox base plate for the Yukon.  

My Trailer is just an electric brake set up and I used a Teconsha P3 controller on my 2000 Dynasty that I will install in the 2006 for the trailer.  

 

I have looked only at the Air Force system so I will check out M&G also. 

Thank you for the input if you have any further suggestions based on my added details please post.

 

 

OK…I will then be more specific.  I would go with the M&G.  They have a PN for your Yukon.  But the breakaway switch package also.  Rerun the airline and put it in the protective air hose jacket for safety.  That is what I installed myself and love it.  The regulation of the MH air supply is great.  I have way more stopping power with the heavier Yukon than I did with the USCGear Universal Tow Brake on my lighter H3 Hummer or on my 98 Explorer that I first installed it on.

As to towing, I doubt the Blue Oz is weight rated.  My choice would be Roadmaster.  If you pull the bill of materials and look at the size and amount of the hardware, the Roadmaster always, from a design and engineering standpoint, is more robust than the Blue OX….as far as the fastening of the baseplates to the vehicle.  I am on  my third…..and each time, I did a side by side and always stayed with Roadmaster. 

I know one of the former designers of the Roadmaster tow bars and he recommended the Sterling All Terrain for my Yukon.  It would be the one that I recommend for you.  The Yukon will be on the lower end of the rating. I upgraded as my old one was good for maybe 6K but I went up to the 8K Sterling….this is from memory but your Yukon needs a Sterling.  It is easily attached and has a quick release feature so pulling it off for breaking down the rig is much easier than the Roadmaster I had before, the Falcon II.

That rig has served me well…  I did drill out the hitch pins and put pad locks on all 6 of them,  I also recommend a “Hitch Tightener” for attaching and stabilizing the tow bar’s drawbar to your receiver hitch.  Amazon has one that is around $15 and gets rave reviews.  If you look at eTrailer’s site….the Sterling has 99 ratings…..and all are 5 star.  It is a great design and the construction and workmanship are superb.

That’s my advice..and I would don again 

 

[Ray Davis]

One thing I forgot to mention about the Roadmaster Brakemaster is that Camping World sells them so you can drop in there and look at the unit.

Also you would be able to buy parts etc there if ever needed. 

I doubt there is a vehicle made that this unit cannot be installed on.

[Scotty Hutto]

Just chiming in late… I use the M&G system (with break-away air reservoir) and it works well. Accidentally tested the break-away system a couple of months back and it works well too! 🤣 The other option I considered was the Roadmaster Brakemaster. You can’t go wrong with either.  In my case I have one (brand new) toad that I planned to keep a very long time, and liked the permanent installation of the M&G. If I had envisioned a new toad, or multiple toads, that would have pushed me towards the Brakemaster. YMMV.

Also have the Roadmaster NightHawk.  Bought it because a) it looked cool, and b) I was at the FMCA rally in 2018 and Roadmaster gave me a healthy discount for trading in my old (2006) Roadmaster tow bar. What I’ve found is that the lighted bar is very useful when towing at night. I can see the front of my toad in my rear camera, and it’s saved my shins countless times 🤪

[rustykramermetalfab]

On 1/18/2023 at 8:53 AM, Scotty Hutto said:

Just chiming in late… I use the M&G system (with break-away air reservoir) and it works well. Accidentally tested the break-away system a couple of months back and it works well too! 🤣 The other option I considered was the Roadmaster Brakemaster. You can’t go wrong with either.  In my case I have one (brand new) toad that I planned to keep a very long time, and liked the permanent installation of the M&G. If I had envisioned a new toad, or multiple toads, that would have pushed me towards the Brakemaster. YMMV.

Also have the Roadmaster NightHawk.  Bought it because a) it looked cool, and b) I was at the FMCA rally in 2018 and Roadmaster gave me a healthy discount for trading in my old (2006) Roadmaster tow bar. What I’ve found is that the lighted bar is very useful when towing at night. I can see the front of my toad in my rear camera, and it’s saved my shins countless times 🤪

Thanks Scotty, I will check into the roadmaster brake also seems like it is a good set up. I am on hold just a bit looking at Jeep Grand Cherokee and might get the set up to tow that instead of the Yukon.  I will report back with what I go with.  Thanks to all. 

[Tom Cherry]

4 hours ago, rustykramermetalfab said:

Thanks Scotty, I will check into the roadmaster brake also seems like it is a good set up. I am on hold just a bit looking at Jeep Grand Cherokee and might get the set up to tow that instead of the Yukon.  I will report back with what I go with.  Thanks to all. 

Whatever you get, if the M&G will fit….I vote for that.  Third braking system.  First portable Brake Buddy…wireless….which did NOT work.  Second US GEAR Tow Brake (discontinued but I loved it).  Third is M&G.  Only reason for swapping was that the Yukon’s floor pan and passenger’s foot area was NOT compatible with the US Gear Solenoid…

I would not have anything else now but the M&G….love it..easy to use and it does MAKE a difference….works great.

[96 EVO]

On 1/18/2023 at 6:53 AM, Scotty Hutto said:

Just chiming in late… I use the M&G system (with break-away air reservoir) and it works well. Accidentally tested the break-away system a couple of months back and it works well too! 🤣  

Probably a good idea!

I think most of us just assume it will work if ever needed!

[Scotty Hutto]

3 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Probably a good idea!

I think most of us just assume it will work if ever needed!

Just a little more info...  I was hooking up, but needed to back the toad up a little...  had already hooked up air and break-away. backed up too far, the coiled wire was hung uon the tow bar, and it pulled the pin!  the brakes locked up tight and scared the stuffing out of me!!!  I thought I had hit something, but it was just the brakes.  I was quite relieved to find the break-away pin pulled!

[Ivylog]

I built my own using a 1.5” air cylinder I had… no regulation of air pressure needed once you bleed the boost off by pressing the pedal a couple of times. Biggest expense was the airlines and fittings for coach and toad.

Sorry, can’t find a picture and it’s 600 miles away.