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Posted

Hello, I'm new to the site and to RV life.

I'm in the process of buying a 99 Diplomat 38A DP. I went and looked at it last week. The first thing the owner showed me was a 3 week old repair bill, from reputable dealer, for several thousand dollars. I don't remember details, my impression was a general check and service after sitting. At that time, everything worked. 3 weeks later when I get there, the house batteries are dead and the generator won't start. Shore power not available. The chassis batteries appeared fine, and the coach started with no issues. The owner was supposed to get the house batteries charged before I return to complete the buy this coming Tuesday. Spoke with him yesterday, and he hasn't and won't charge them. He's afraid he'll hook something wrong and cause damage.\

I've been researching this and other forum sites to glean as much info as I can on this issue. There does not appear to be a simple yes or no answer to my question. I know, it's taking me a while to get to the question.

Do all y'all think driving the MH a 100 miles would allow the alternator to trickle charge the house batteries enough to crank the generator which would then fully charge the house batteries? Or jump the gen off a 12v car battery? 

I'd prefer to get the gen started before I buy it. Without the gen, or house batteries, or shore power, nothing works. I can't check any of the systems. Of course, y'all didn't need me to state the obvious. I think the cause of the bat drain was a new gizmo they installed at that 3 week ago service. Seems the speedometer needle has fallen off of the shaft it should be on, and is lying in the bottom of the dial. The service center installed a electronic speedo that uses heads up tech to display speed on the windshield. Connects via USB cable that runs under the dash somewhere. While standing by the door, I noticed it was making a slight noise. I pulled the usb cable and the noise stopped. I'm guessing (hoping) the owner left it on when he returned from the service trip and that drained the house batteries after running for 3 weeks.

Sorry for the long post. I tend to ramble some/most times.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

 

MonacoBatteries.jpg

MonacoGenerator.jpg

Guest Ray Davis
Posted

The coach has a boost switch that should allow you to start the generator from the chassis batteries.  In picture #1  you have the solenoid that connects the chassis batteries to the house batteries.  It's the round device on the wall approximately between the batteries.  Boost systems don't always work, so you may have to use jumper cables.  I would start the engine, jumper the 2 battery banks together, let it run for 30 minutes to charge house batteries, and then try to start the gen.

I have a question about pict #2.   It sure looks to me like the front cover is off of the gen, is that correct?  If so why.

Finally,  unless he is giving it away I would not buy until you hear the gen run and check out all the systems.  The seller may be trying to unload his problems on you.                                                            

Posted

I agree.  I wouldn't want to buy without knowing what works and what doesn't.  No place to plug in nearby?  Is there a park you can offer to pay for 1 night and hook up, even stay in if desired?  Without further knowledge of what works and what doesn't,  if you really want it, I'd come off the price a lot.  Be prepared for new house batteries no matter what as they sound shot to me. Is there a battery boost button by the drivers seat?  W the engine running, you can press and hold for a minute and try the genny and repeat til it cranks, assuming it works.  Also, I may be wrong, but the wiring from the coach to the chassis batteries looks wrong to me...but that one may be different.  A lot of unknowns here.  Maybe you pay for a RV shop to go through it.  I did that, saved me $15k. 

Posted

X3, if the seller is not willing to correct the house battery situation so you can start the generator and test all the systems WALK/RUN away. 

The If the generator cover was off and not available then chances are you will have lots of problems with generator with all the dirt and moisture that gets thrown up while driving. 

So new batteries are ~$600 but if any of the major appliances don't work you could be in for more $$$$.  New AC's ~+$1500, I bought 2 last year for ~$2700 but I checked recently and the price as gone up substantially if you can find them. 

Check date codes on tires, age out at 7 years so if they older then that they will have to be replaced, ~+$4000 depending on brand. 

Lots of other stuff that adds up to $$$$ if you can't test it. 

The Monacoers group is a great resource, keep asking questions.

Posted

One could say…..run….instead of walking away.

my concerns….as well as comments.

mssing front panel of Generator.  How long has it been gone?  How uncharted dust and water and debris has been “sucked” up into the Generator?  I cannot imagine any reputable shop not reinstalling it.  If that cover has been missing and many thousand miles were put on it, then I personally would say no..

One can speculate on “no problem” or vice versa, “OMG”.  The generator was designed as an enclosed cabinet with its own water cooled radiator cooling system.  That front cover was to prevent unwanted air and liquids inside to prevent damage to the engine and the electronics.  It also protects a critical control board that is the “heart” or think, ECM, for the engine.  This is NOT a $750 8Kw Generac generator from Lowe’s, Home Depot.  At the least, should you decide RO purchase, I would want it inspected by a certified ONAN (which is owned by Cummins) shop.  All Cummins Coach Care facilities are qualified to repair them.  Part of the inspection would be to load test the unit.  Most likely, before the “it’s OK” they will also assess the condition and PROBABLY require or recommend the 1,000 or so service.  That includes coolant change, drive belt, coolant temperature sensor replacement, thermostat and gasket replacement. There is a section in the manual, I think on this.  The parts I named off are the ones that many of us carry and are replaced.  In addition, replace the front cover.

OK….NOW TO YOUR ORIGINAL QUESTION.

Unless some upgrade was done, the house batteries were designed to be charged from the inverter charger.  The chassis batteries were not configured to be charged when the house batteries are charging….such as when you are on shore power.  There was PROBABLY a device that allowed for FULLY CHARGING the house batteries when driving. It is, in NO WAY, a trickle (3 amps) charger.  The alternator put out full amps, like it does to the Chassis batteries…so figure upwards of 100 Amps when fully “discharged”.  Driving the MH or running the generator or being plugged into 50 or 30 Amp service for 3 - 4 hours will achieve a 90% State of Charge.

Newer Monaco’s have a Bi-Directional Charging system so when you drive or run the generator (or do both when driving and running the overhead house AC units) or are plugged into 50 or 30 Amp service, both banks are going charged.  There is a $300 device that many have installed themselves is a simple and foolproof way to get BIRD charging and also replaces the original Battery Boost Solenoid.

SO….yes, dead batteries are NOT uncommon if a MH has weak House Batteries after 3 weeks.  

The owner’s lack of knowledge and his reluctance to “touch it” does not give me a warm and fuzzy feeling and he is a bit skittish to touch something that he HOPES has been fixed.  Odds are, the house batteries are weak…

Posted

Thanks for all the replies. 

I think I should clarify who this 'owner' is. He inherited this coach from a friend who died recently. He is not an 'RV guy", his words, and has no desire to become one. Hence the sale. He took it to a reputable repair shop in central FL and had it checked/serviced 3 weeks ago. The bill was several thousand dollars. I saw the bill, I just forgot to bring it home with me. I do have repair bills dating back to New Warranty work performed through the life of the MH. According to the current repair bill, ALL systems tested/checked out OK. No issues found that were not repaired. 

RD, the boost switch you refer to is by drivers seat? Does that activate the solenoid to connect the two battery banks? If the boost works, is that better/safer than jumping the two banks, or just easier?  Unfortunately he's not giving it away, but the price is $10,000 less than the next cheapest Diplomat, same year and configuration with similar mileage. Both MH are over the JD Power?NADA value. I don't know about the gen cover, I didn't realize it should have one. I'm guessing the current owner had no clue also.  

SP, I can't go to where shore power is available to check as previous owner (not current owner) ran over shore power cable and plug end is crushed. I can fix that when I get it home. The house batteries have a 2021 date, so I'm hoping they simply got drained from a device left on that shouldn't have been. And the battery shut-offs weren't shut off. I know how expensive those batteries are, I just replaced 6 of them in my golf cart. (DamnItMan, I hate when my brain functions at idle speed. I can bring my golf cart batteries with me and swap them out if I can't get it jumped or boosted. Right?) I agree the battery wiring looks like a cluster, but it also looks original. ie, dirt/dust on connections don't look disturbed. Also, he just had it serviced, and all systems were good. 

I've jump started many vehicles in the past, but never a multi battery bank. In the picture I've hi-lited where I think I would connect cables to jump system. Does it look correct to anyone?

Thanks again for the help and responses. 

 

InkedInkedMonacoBatteries_LI_B.jpg

Posted
1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

X3, if the seller is not willing to correct the house battery situation so you can start the generator and test all the systems WALK/RUN away. 

The If the generator cover was off and not available then chances are you will have lots of problems with generator with all the dirt and moisture that gets thrown up while driving. 

So new batteries are ~$600 but if any of the major appliances don't work you could be in for more $$$$.  New AC's ~+$1500, I bought 2 last year for ~$2700 but I checked recently and the price as gone up substantially if you can find them. 

Check date codes on tires, age out at 7 years so if they older then that they will have to be replaced, ~+$4000 depending on brand. 

Lots of other stuff that adds up to $$$$ if you can't test it. 

The Monacoers group is a great resource, keep asking questions.

Thanks, the tires are one of my bargaining points, 7 years old and showing signs of weathering cracking. I know how expensive AC's are, I have the repair bill from Aug of 2013 when the front AC was replaced. About $1400. New washer/dryer installed this year, never used. Current owner is 3rd owner, but has never used the MH. Previous two owners kept all repair bills, dating from first warranty repair with 9,000 miles, to latest repair with 113,700 miles. Almost $25,000 in repairs. To me, it seems both owners took good care of this MH. 

Thanks

Posted

Sounds like previous 2 owners maintained the rig to some extent.  118K miles is about right for that age coach if it was used.  Still lots of life left in the engine provided it was taken care of. 

Only suggestion I'd make is to have a engine & transmission oil analysis done, I've used JG Lubrication for mine, I buy 3 kits at a time and use a large syringe and tube to pull oil, cost about ~$80 for 3 kits and once the sample is sent in you should have results in ~4-5 days.   They will provide comments on condition of oil and if there are any concerns.  Well worth the cost/effort.  https://jglubricantservices.com/online_store.html

Tom Cherry mentioned replacing the booster solenoid,

A lot of people have replaced this solenoid with a Bluesea ML-ACR, which is an automatic latching relay and will charge both banks of batteries when it senses a charging source and with the remote switch can also be used to boost the batteries for starting.  Pretty simple install and a good option if you have a problem with your current system.  It would mount where your current solenoid is.

Mine was a little different and I replaced 3 components with this one for ~$175.

 

Blue Sea ML-ARC.jpg

Guest Ray Davis
Posted (edited)

Yes that's the solenoid activated by the boost sw by the driver.  It should clunk when activated, not sure if you'll hear it tho from up front.  Even if it clunks it may not be making contact inside, they are known to malfunction.

Bringing your own batteries is not a bad idea however I'm sure you know they are heavy and messy.  First take a good picture of the coach batteries and cables.  They look so simple initually but can quickly become a mystery after everything is disconnected.

I would press the seller to find the cover to the generater.  I feel it would be a mistake to use the moho without it, ok you could drive it home etc.  Generators are very expensive and that cover will be very difficult if not impossible for you to find.  Operating the coach without the cover will eventually compromise the gen.  Hopefully that has not already happened.

Edited by Ray Davis
Posted
1 hour ago, Dick Roberts said:

Thanks for all the replies. 

I think I should clarify who this 'owner' is. He inherited this coach from a friend who died recently. He is not an 'RV guy", his words, and has no desire to become one. Hence the sale. He took it to a reputable repair shop in central FL and had it checked/serviced 3 weeks ago. The bill was several thousand dollars. I saw the bill, I just forgot to bring it home with me. I do have repair bills dating back to New Warranty work performed through the life of the MH. According to the current repair bill, ALL systems tested/checked out OK. No issues found that were not repaired. 

RD, the boost switch you refer to is by drivers seat? Does that activate the solenoid to connect the two battery banks? If the boost works, is that better/safer than jumping the two banks, or just easier?  Unfortunately he's not giving it away, but the price is $10,000 less than the next cheapest Diplomat, same year and configuration with similar mileage. Both MH are over the JD Power?NADA value. I don't know about the gen cover, I didn't realize it should have one. I'm guessing the current owner had no clue also.  

SP, I can't go to where shore power is available to check as previous owner (not current owner) ran over shore power cable and plug end is crushed. I can fix that when I get it home. The house batteries have a 2021 date, so I'm hoping they simply got drained from a device left on that shouldn't have been. And the battery shut-offs weren't shut off. I know how expensive those batteries are, I just replaced 6 of them in my golf cart. (DamnItMan, I hate when my brain functions at idle speed. I can bring my golf cart batteries with me and swap them out if I can't get it jumped or boosted. Right?) I agree the battery wiring looks like a cluster, but it also looks original. ie, dirt/dust on connections don't look disturbed. Also, he just had it serviced, and all systems were good. 

I've jump started many vehicles in the past, but never a multi battery bank. In the picture I've hi-lited where I think I would connect cables to jump system. Does it look correct to anyone?

Thanks again for the help and responses. 

 

InkedInkedMonacoBatteries_LI_B.jpg

Yes…BUT…

DON’T Know your level of MH and dual battery systems.  The boost switch will be on the console typically to the drivers left or on the left side of the dash.  It will be labeled.

NOW….THE RUB.  Monaco was not consistent.  If you buy this, you need to know the following

The boost was primarily there for starting the Engine when you had PARTIALLY discharged Chassis batteries.  Never designed for dead as a door nail chassis batteries.  The boost solenoid has to have power so the monetary contact switch, when held on, would energize the solenoid and connect both batteries.  Opps, you have dead or almost dead house….no powe to the solenoid as the house batteries ain’t gonna crank or assist the chassis.  

SOLUTION.  RECHARGE, presumably, the house….then after a surface charge, the boost switch works.  

YOUR SOLUTION…start the engine.  Put a single jumper cable from each POSITIVE on the House and Chassis.  Now…start the generator.  Remove the jumper….turn off engine.  The generator will charge the batteries.  That will take about 4 hours….to be safe. They still will only be 90/95% charged or 90/95% STATE OF CHARGE.

MORE EDUCATION.  When new, the batteries, measured across the 2 in series (they are 6 VDC) will be 12.73.  So after they are fully charged, you put a little load on them for a few minutes…then disconnect the center jumper, which isolates them.  A new battery will measure 6.37 VDC.  

I attached a photo.  If the voltage measured by a quality VOM is lower, then you can tell how good they are.  Once they will not charge back up to only 6.05 VDC, they are basically worthless or are at 50%….so it is time to junk and replace.

BOTTOM LINE.  Have him run the generator and you either measure the voltage or pull them and take to a battery shop and let them measure and load test.  If not, then pull the 4 and find a battery shop that will recharge and test and tell you what condition.  

folks that don’t understand batteries and abuse them and don’t check the electrolyte level have killed quality batteries in a year.

This is your call and your deal.  Better to know what is going on.  The easiest is for the owner to take the MH back to the inspecting dealer…have him replace the power cord, recharge and test the batteries….

NOW A PERTINENT POINT.  IF THE POWER CORD WAS DAMAGED AND THE DEALER NEVER PLUGGED IT IN….HOW CAN HE CERTIFY THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM?

Something is amiss if a dealer inspected and tested all systems but could not plug in the power cord.  Yes….if they ran the Generator….but they never tested the Automatic Transfer Switch.  I don’t understand the all is well, but a busted shore plug.

BTW….you need to identify and find the automatic transfer switch.  If it is an IOTA 50 R, it was recalled and is a fire and electrical safety issue and needs to be replaced prior to ANY USE.  

Just giving you input and info as requested….

Either get adjustments on the price or carry to another dealer and pay for his inspection or have the seller fix the cord and give you a report on batteries or walk…or buy and HOPE.

GOOD LUCK

 

18FA7B6A-3EA6-47B8-84D7-AD0F05B3B066.jpeg

Posted

There's a lot of good information here already. Looking at the generator picture and overall care of the electrical systems, run away. I owned a 99 Diplomat 38A bought new until last week when I traded it in on a slightly newer and in way worse shape Signature. The generator had just had a full Cummins service and ran like new and overall the coach is in great shape with Banks powerpack and new tires as well. If you have an interest, it is at Tom's Camperland in Tuscon. I'm happy to privately share their cost.

A few hints:

  • Jump the house batteries from engine batteries as above with engine running. The battery boost does not help; it goes the other way supplying house battery power to engine batteries.
  • Once house batteries have a bit of a charge, use a desulfating charger at least twice a year with batteries disconnected from coach. I have been able to get 10 years plus of battery life out of batteries on my many vehicles and even recover 15 year old batteries. That little desulfating gizmo has saved me literally thousands over the years. 
  • On my coach I installed solar panels. One feeding the engine batteries and two feeding the house batteries. Amazing. Always fully charged. 

Good luck!

Posted
3 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Yes that's the solenoid activated by the boost sw by the driver.  It should clunk when activated, not sure if you'll hear it tho from up front.  Even if it clunks it may not be making contact inside, they are known to malfunction.

Bringing your own batteries is not a bad idea however I'm sure you know they are heavy and messy.  First take a good picture of the coach batteries and cables.  They look so simple initually but can quickly become a mystery after everything is disconnected.

I would press the seller to find the cover to the generater.  I feel it would be a mistake to use the moho without it, ok you could drive it home etc.  Generators are very expensive and that cover will be very difficult if not impossible for you to find.  Operating the coach without the cover will eventually compromise the gen.  Hopefully that has not already happened.

Yeah, I'm way to familiar with heavy messy batteries. Just recently changed them and the cables in my golf cart. I'm going to abandon that fix until I get it home if they don't charge on the 160 mile drive home. I'm pretty sure the owner doesn't realize the gen cover is missing but I'll ask. And I'll find or make one if he doesn't.

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Yes…BUT…

DON’T Know your level of MH and dual battery systems.  The boost switch will be on the console typically to the drivers left or on the left side of the dash.  It will be labeled.

NOW….THE RUB.  Monaco was not consistent.  If you buy this, you need to know the following

The boost was primarily there for starting the Engine when you had PARTIALLY discharged Chassis batteries.  Never designed for dead as a door nail chassis batteries.  The boost solenoid has to have power so the monetary contact switch, when held on, would energize the solenoid and connect both batteries.  Opps, you have dead or almost dead house….no powe to the solenoid as the house batteries ain’t gonna crank or assist the chassis.  

SOLUTION.  RECHARGE, presumably, the house….then after a surface charge, the boost switch works.  

YOUR SOLUTION…start the engine.  Put a single jumper cable from each POSITIVE on the House and Chassis.  Now…start the generator.  Remove the jumper….turn off engine.  The generator will charge the batteries.  That will take about 4 hours….to be safe. They still will only be 90/95% charged or 90/95% STATE OF CHARGE.

MORE EDUCATION.  When new, the batteries, measured across the 2 in series (they are 6 VDC) will be 12.73.  So after they are fully charged, you put a little load on them for a few minutes…then disconnect the center jumper, which isolates them.  A new battery will measure 6.37 VDC.  

I attached a photo.  If the voltage measured by a quality VOM is lower, then you can tell how good they are.  Once they will not charge back up to only 6.05 VDC, they are basically worthless or are at 50%….so it is time to junk and replace.

BOTTOM LINE.  Have him run the generator and you either measure the voltage or pull them and take to a battery shop and let them measure and load test.  If not, then pull the 4 and find a battery shop that will recharge and test and tell you what condition.  

folks that don’t understand batteries and abuse them and don’t check the electrolyte level have killed quality batteries in a year.

This is your call and your deal.  Better to know what is going on.  The easiest is for the owner to take the MH back to the inspecting dealer…have him replace the power cord, recharge and test the batteries….

NOW A PERTINENT POINT.  IF THE POWER CORD WAS DAMAGED AND THE DEALER NEVER PLUGGED IT IN….HOW CAN HE CERTIFY THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM?

Something is amiss if a dealer inspected and tested all systems but could not plug in the power cord.  Yes….if they ran the Generator….but they never tested the Automatic Transfer Switch.  I don’t understand the all is well, but a busted shore plug.

BTW….you need to identify and find the automatic transfer switch.  If it is an IOTA 50 R, it was recalled and is a fire and electrical safety issue and needs to be replaced prior to ANY USE.  

Just giving you input and info as requested….

Either get adjustments on the price or carry to another dealer and pay for his inspection or have the seller fix the cord and give you a report on batteries or walk…or buy and HOPE.

GOOD LUCK

 

18FA7B6A-3EA6-47B8-84D7-AD0F05B3B066.jpeg

 

In the mid 90's I bought an early 70's Class C, powered by a big block Ford. I rebuilt the top end and the Holly and rewired the rear lights. Markers, tail, stop, reverse. (Finished that job at 2 AM the morning we were scheduled to leave at 5 AM) It had a duel battery system. Generator wouldn't run due to blown safety relays that were no longer available. The house battery caught fire driving down though E CO from NE. I stopped, yanked the cables off, put out the fire, and continued on home to FL with no more issues.

Sold that MH without doing any more work on it. That is the total of my experience with MH's and duel battery setups. I have, however, worked on and repaired a variety of gas vehicles, including complete rebuilds on V8's and multiple motorcycles. I consider myself to be a fair to mediumly competent shade tree wrench. The work ahead doesn't scare me, but the $$$ certainly does.

But I've convinced myself the battery drain was caused by battery switches not turned off and one or more DC circuits left energized. I had a brand new battery in my van die completely in 2 days due to a dome light being left on. My golf cart had 12 year old Trojans that held a charge for a weeks use, and they died completely over night because the key switch was left on overnight. My thought (hope, prayer) is if the rest of the system is working, then the alternator should recharge the house bank on the 160 mile drive home. I could be looking through rose colored glasses, but I could also be right.

And with the issues present, I have a lot of negotiating room. The price is already low, compared to other Diplomats of this year. And with my (new) knowledge of what could be wrong, I feel I can negotiate an even lower price. If not, I will certainly walk away, losing nothing but some time and 2 tanks of gas.

Thanks for all the great info.

Edited by Dick Roberts
Posted
1 hour ago, Dick Roberts said:

 

In the mid 90's I bought an early 70's Class C, powered by a big block Ford. I rebuilt the top end and the Holly and rewired the rear lights. Markers, tail, stop, reverse. (Finished that job at 2 AM the morning we were scheduled to leave at 5 AM) It had a duel battery system. Generator wouldn't run due to blown safety relays that were no longer available. The house battery caught fire driving down though E CO from NE. I stopped, yanked the cables off, put out the fire, and continued on home to FL with no more issues.

Sold that MH without doing any more work on it. That is the total of my experience with MH's and duel battery setups. I have, however, worked on and repaired a variety of gas vehicles, including complete rebuilds on V8's and multiple motorcycles. I consider myself to be a fair to mediumly competent shade tree wrench. The work ahead doesn't scare me, but the $$$ certainly does.

But I've convinced myself the battery drain was caused by battery switches not turned off and one or more DC circuits left energized. I had a brand new battery in my van die completely in 2 days due to a dome light being left on. My golf cart had 12 year old Trojans that held a charge for a weeks use, and they died completely over night because the key switch was left on overnight. My thought (hope, prayer) is if the rest of the system is working, then the alternator should recharge the house bank on the 160 mile drive home. I could be looking through rose colored glasses, but I could also be right.

And with the issues present, I have a lot of negotiating room. The price is already low, compared to other Diplomats of this year. And with my (new) knowledge of what could be wrong, I feel I can negotiate an even lower price. If not, I will certainly walk away, losing nothing but some time and 2 tanks of gas.

Thanks for all the great info.

AMEN....Sounds like a plan to me.  I just realized that a post I did several hours earlier and did not get SUBMITTED due to a pressing task as my DW had thought we were significantly underfunded for the month and had not added in several critical deposit.....  LOL....you got out ranked.

Read it at your leisure as I understand your situation better.  Good Luck and Welcome aboard.  Always good to have a new member that is not exactly a NEWBIE member.  Al least you know going in what the deal is...

Keep us posted if you buy or when you find another one...

  • Like 1
Posted

One question is, where is it located.  Maybe a nearby member could spare some time if able to look with you?

Posted

I suggest that if you decide to drive this MH with the dead chassis batteries that you leave the generator running in order to charge them (if it starts of course) or you may be looking to replace your engine alternator as well since the amperage draw will severely tax it.  I haven't priced an alternator for a while but you may be looking at $2K for a rebuilt one (not counting any labour).

My wife and I purchased our 03 Signature about 6 yrs ago and during our inspection we noticed numerous items that either needed attention or replacement.  I used a checklist for the inspection.  This knowledge was hard earned from our previous coach as well as my work history as a troubleshooter in the power industry so we priced our offer accordingly with the seller explaining the cost of his unintentional neglect.  Our coach today is pretty much trouble free.  Good luck.

Posted

@Bruce S I believe the OPs chassis batteries are not the issue.  House batteries are dead and genny won't run. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I was able to negotiate the price down a little, not as much as I'd hoped. First thing I did when I got there was try to start the genny. It clicked like a typical bad battery in a car. I started the MH and let it run for about 5 minutes, and tried again. The genny started right up. About half the DC and AC circuits were working. I bought it and drove it home. House batteries still not charged enough to crank genny. Moved on to issues I could fix. Had new tires installed along with a tire monitor system. Found out that the male end of a 50 amp cord is 25 bucks and available at my local hardware store. The female plug of the 50 amp cord was $89 and change, and I had to drive 60 miles to get it. I brought in my brother by phone to help. He's a retired elec/hvac master wrench. He helped me verify the connections in the new transfer switch. We verified the genny was supplying 120 vac on both legs and that it was being sent to the main breaker panel in the MH. Checked all the breakers, but still didn't have full power inside. The remote panel for the Freedom 15 inv/chg was dead. The house batteries still weren't charging to full capacity, driving or genny. Then I came across a post on here where there was mention of the communication line sometimes causing an issue with inv. Mine plugs into the inv inside underneath everything, so all I could do was jiggle it, but I could here the noise from the inv change when I jiggled. So I kept jiggling until the noise stopped, then I went inside and the remote panel was light and active. It showed the charge state of the house batteries, very low, they showed 10.5 volts. 30 minutes later they were up to 11.0. Still had only one bar on the icon and a red led. I drove twenty miles up the road to the nearest truck stop and filled up. Checked the batteries again when I got home and they were up to 12.2 and the second icon, 2 bars, had an amber led lite. Electrical issues are being eliminated one by one. Only have front ac. Outlet for front tv has no power. Outside outlet for fridge only has 36 vac. But the heater works 🙂 and the water pump. Tested only. Haven't sanitized the water system yet so haven't tested all plumbing Washer/dryer has power to it, I'll test it when water tanks flushed. Hot water heater works. The slide works but the service guy at CW who tested it didn't check the top before extending it. The molding strip along the top of the MH somehow got stuck to the top of the slide or to the awning and the strip got pulled loose from front to back. Big gaping hole. Makes me sick to look at it when I think about how much they charged me to damage my new MH. 

The MH seems to have developed an air leak, or rather what use to be a slow air leak has turned into a fast air leak. Sounds like it might be one of the rear air bags. I hope that's where it's leaking, I have four brand new ones in one of the storage bays, still in the shipping box. Only a couple of nuts and an airline. Should be a piece of cake, right? I only have two weeks left to get this ready for a permanent road trip. Wow, a permanent road trip! I can't believe we're really doing this.

  • Like 1
Posted

If you're looking or things to do with your new-to-you motorhome, I'd suggest

  • Changing the genny start power line to the chassis batteries; I wish I'd done that a lot sooner
  • Removing the solid-state isolator and battery boost solenoid and replacing with a DC-DC charger (for charging house batteries from the alternator) and Amp-l-start (charge chassis batteries from inverter/charger). With those items you can then install a regular heavy truck alternator like a 28si, and also be prepped for lithium batteries. If genny starts from chassis batteries, battery boost isn't really needed. A set of jumper cables can also function as emergency battery boost.

Doing those things cleans up your electrical charging systems and removes 25-year-old sources of headaches.

Posted (edited)
29 minutes ago, jimc99999 said:

If you're looking or things to do with your new-to-you motorhome, I'd suggest

  • Changing the genny start power line to the chassis batteries; I wish I'd done that a lot sooner
  •  

I did that, but, I have a 2008 coach with a B.I.R.D.

So, my chassis batteries are getting re-charged on gen power, shore power, or alternator power.

If I wasn't putting a charge back into the chassis bank with the generator, I probably would have left the way it came! 

Edited by 96 EVO
Posted
31 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

I did that, but, I have a 2008 coach with a B.I.R.D.

So, my chassis batteries are getting re-charged on gen power, shore power, or alternator power.

If I wasn't putting a charge back into the chassis bank with the generator, I probably would have left the way it came! 

My chassis batteries also get charged on generator or shore power via the inverter/charger, and the alternator can charge the house batteries. I replaced the solid-state isolator with a ML-ACR from BlueSea. But I now think a DC-DC charger and Amp-L-Start would be a better setup. If you change house batteries to lithiums and you want to charge them from the alternator, you still should have a DC-DC charger. And with the DC-DC charger, the only thing you really need to keep the chassis batteries topped off while the motor isn't running is the Amp-L-Start. 

Posted

@Dick Robertscongrats!  Sounds like you've got a great start.  W your upcoming permanent road trip,  I'd focus on making it road safe, changing all fluids in engine and genny for a new baseline, fixing that air leak, etc..  other stuff you can work on later. Good chance those batteries are shot so best to test them once fully charged, etc..  I had an air leak I could hear, came from front tank air fittings, but my brake test passed well.  I replaced the fittings and that fixed that.  I have always had a slow leak but that doesn't bother me. 

Posted
17 minutes ago, Steven P said:

@Dick Robertscongrats!  Sounds like you've got a great start.  W your upcoming permanent road trip,  I'd focus on making it road safe, changing all fluids in engine and genny for a new baseline, fixing that air leak, etc..  other stuff you can work on later. Good chance those batteries are shot so best to test them once fully charged, etc..  I had an air leak I could hear, came from front tank air fittings, but my brake test passed well.  I replaced the fittings and that fixed that.  I have always had a slow leak but that doesn't bother me. 

I'll be working on the air leak today. I'm thinking I should take it to a cummins shop for LOF. I watched a video on that, on a semi not a DP, and I don't think I want to mess with 10 gals of old diesel oil. Not sure where my closest truck service shop is yet.

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