Windshield wipers

[Rowdyrick]

I rarely use my wipers but lately I have had to because of the heavy rains and strong winds the problem is it keeps blowing the 15 amp mini fuse when the wipers are working hard fighting the wind and rain has anyone else had this problem? I think the 15 amp fuse is to small I just ordered a resettable fuse but was think I should try a 20 amp first any thoughts 

thanks 

Oh it’s a 2009 Monoco Knight 

[Tom Cherry]

10 minutes ago, Rowdyrick said:

I rarely use my wipers but lately I have had to because of the heavy rains and strong winds the problem is it keeps blowing the 15 amp mini fuse when the wipers are working hard fighting the wind and rain has anyone else had this problem? I think the 15 amp fuse is to small I just ordered a resettable fuse but was think I should try a 20 amp first any thoughts 

thanks 

Oh it’s a 2009 Monoco Knight 

Comments from many posts and “info”.  If you have the AM motor and the 32” blades, you may be experiencing the same issues that others have had….and often lead to breaking the arms.  One of AM’s competitors says that the longer blade arms are a failure point and either buy theirs or drop to 28”.  I did that long ago and there is, on mine, no functionality issues, unless DW wants to take a picture of something in the rain…LOL.

If you have 32” blades, you might try a good quality name 28” brand set (Bosch looks stronger….but they change often).  Try them.  The other thing is to clean the windshield with something like the RainEX wiper solution as that reduces the surface tension, therefore the load on the motor.

Past that, check the original fuse specs and your prints.  If it calls for 15 A, then you need to start trouble shooting. Start the engine and  measure the voltage (dry) in the driveway.  If you have a high resistance connection and are getting low voltage as it cycles, that kicks up the amps and bingo you blow the fuse.  I can’t tell you how low is low, but your alternator is putting out 13.9 VDC for the Chassis wiring.  Maybe half a volt or lower and you have a wiring/connection problem.  You can compare to other upfront devices, under load.

If the voltage is OK, then odds are….you have a motor/gearbox issue.  AM Industries was a prime supplier of wiper motor, arms, links, etc in 2009.  I KNOW.  So they would be your best bet if you have a mechanical failure,  google and call them after you find the real issue.  Throwing a bigger fuse is not the way to go…..

[Rowdyrick]

Oh it’s a 2009 Monoco Knight 

I checked Voltage everything looks good all connections are dry with  no corrosion I do have 32” blades and it seems when the wipers drag is when it blows I usually use rain X but have not in a long time so I will be applying it when I get it home I did have wiper arm issues also both arms broke where the spring attaches on the back side seems like the pins were to weak my new ones are a lot better thanks for the help and I am going to buy some 28” blades 32 inch are hard to find and are pricey 

Oh it’s a 2009 Monoco Knight 

do you have an email or a contact for AM industries can’t seem to find them or a website 

[jacwjames]

My original 32" wiper blades would lift off the windshield in high winds.  So I went with the 28" blades and that pretty much solved that problem.  It did not impact my view as the area that is currently cleaned with the wiper is big enough for me to see what I need to see.  28" blades are readily available and easier to source. 

[Rowdyrick]

Oh it’s a 2009 Monoco Knight 

Ordering a set of 28s now Thanks for the advice 

9 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

My original 32" wiper blades would lift off the windshield in high winds.  So I went with the 28" blades and that pretty much solved that problem.  It did not impact my view as the area that is currently cleaned with the wiper is big enough for me to see what I need to see.  28" blades are readily available and easier to source. 

Thanks 

[tmw188]

32 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

My original 32" wiper blades would lift off the windshield in high winds.  So I went with the 28" blades and that pretty much solved that problem.  It did not impact my view as the area that is currently cleaned with the wiper is big enough for me to see what I need to see.  28" blades are readily available and easier to source. 

Ah yes! I was and can still start a new thread but want comment on this. Mine while driving at highway speeds actually travel too far on high especially and slam against the drivers side rubber seal at the top with a loud slapping noise. When not driving it does not travel as far. Do you think a 28” might solve that? It actually has caused the nut to work it’s way loose at the arm while driving down the highway. 
Looking online NAPA truck blades, any other good source?

Edited January 15, 2023 by tmw188

[Tom Cherry]

11 minutes ago, Rowdyrick said:

Oh it’s a 2009 Monoco Knight 

Ordering a set of 28s now Thanks for the advice 

Thanks 

Based on your additional information, if you put on “stronger” arms, as recommended by one of AM’s competitors (Diesel Equipment - Greensboro, NC) and that had more “strength” as well as additional spring tension ….bingo.

28” works for me and I don’t want to spend big bucks on the monsters….I WOULD recommend trying a split tubular cover for storage unless you have a  barn.  It used to visit the Anco factory and talked to the product engineers.  There was a voluntary program that 95% of the US manufacturers….as well as their imported components complied with.  The Anco folks said by removing some of the “high volatile” stabilizers in the rubber formulation just about halved the life….and as the 1990 Clean Air Act kicked in, most folks went to formulas that were trying to restore the UV deterioration issues, but in effect…it got worse.

I used to give my kids and relatives new blades every Christmas.  Still do, but I don’t have my connections,  I know that the same brand and model blade will last for years on my Vette…driven at least weekly but garaged.  My wife’s ATS will go two years….my daughter, if she leaves it out as well as when in school will get a year.

Bottom line.  Fresh blades, protected, on a MH will pull less amps and clean better.

Good Luck.

[Rowdyrick]

2 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Based on your additional information, if you put on “stronger” arms, as recommended by one of AM’s competitors (Diesel Equipment - Greensboro, NC) and that had more “strength” as well as additional spring tension ….bingo.

28” works for me and I don’t want to spend big bucks on the monsters….I WOULD recommend trying a split tubular cover for storage unless you have a  barn.  It used to visit the Anco factory and talked to the product engineers.  There was a voluntary program that 95% of the US manufacturers….as well as their imported components complied with.  The Anco folks said by removing some of the “high volatile” stabilizers in the rubber formulation just about halved the life….and as the 1990 Clean Air Act kicked in, most folks went to formulas that were trying to restore the UV deterioration issues, but in effect…it got worse.

I used to give my kids and relatives new blades every Christmas.  Still do, but I don’t have my connections,  I know that the same brand and model blade will last for years on my Vette…driven at least weekly but garaged.  My wife’s ATS will go two years….my daughter, if she leaves it out as well as when in school will get a year.

Bottom line.  Fresh blades, protected, on a MH will pull less amps and clean better.

Good Luck.

The new wiper arms I got from Monoco but it blew the fuse with weaker ones I believe it’s a dragging issue so I think with doing a Rain x treatment and 28’s should help I do keep my blades covered when I am not using the MH thanks again 

[Tom Cherry]

17 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

Ah yes! I was and can still start a new thread but want comment on this. Mine while driving at highway speeds actually travel too far on high especially and slam against the drivers side rubber seal at the top with a loud slapping noise. When not driving it does not travel as far. Do you think a 28” might solve that? It actually has caused the nut to work it’s way loose at the arm while driving down the highway. 
Looking online NAPA truck blades, any other good source?

Please use this thread instead of starting a new one.  Yea to tightening and keeping the arm on properly.  Otherwise the soft die cast metal will fail snd you need a new arm.  Yes…the motion will cause issues.

Follow the suggestions.  I rarely see any difference when I order new ones every year and no one seems to last better.  But, you never know….just make sure the J hook fits and locks, if that is how yours is mounted. There were manufacturing issue and bad drawings and some of the AM hooks were incorrect, but most of the plastic hardware will lock in.

[tmw188]

Thanks Tom, yes I didn’t feel I really needed to start another thread with this being so closely related. I need to stop the slapping that goes on with the current 32” while running on high. Works fine and returns to the correct resting place when off. 

Edited January 15, 2023 by tmw188

[Rowdyrick]

30 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Please use this thread instead of starting a new one.  Yea to tightening and keeping the arm on properly.  Otherwise the soft die cast metal will fail snd you need a new arm.  Yes…the motion will cause issues.

Follow the suggestions.  I rarely see any difference when I order new ones every year and no one seems to last better.  But, you never know….just make sure the J hook fits and locks, if that is how yours is mounted. There were manufacturing issue and bad drawings and some of the AM hooks were incorrect, but most of the plastic hardware will lock in.

Here is another Bizarre story I had my passenger side slide topper fabric replaced both of them in August and coming home in January my front slide topper slide right of the brackets driving down the highway I had to stop and cut the slide topper off the coach luckily no damage but I think they forgot to tighten it back down after they replaced the material. They had to remove the complete roller assembly because the old material was inside of it so it’s back at the same shop I wonder if he is going to charge me again ever hear of that ? 

[Tom Cherry]

14 minutes ago, Rowdyrick said:

Here is another Bizarre story I had my passenger side slide topper fabric replaced both of them in August and coming home in January my front slide topper slide right of the brackets driving down the highway I had to stop and cut the slide topper off the coach luckily no damage but I think they forgot to tighten it back down after they replaced the material. They had to remove the complete roller assembly because the old material was inside of it so it’s back at the same shop I wonder if he is going to charge me again ever hear of that ? 

PM @throgmartin.  He is our resident topper expert.  He started out sewing them and now has a shop that installs and does a lot of slide and other work.  Chris is a   Straight shooter.  PM him.

[throgmartin]

13 hours ago, Rowdyrick said:

Here is another Bizarre story I had my passenger side slide topper fabric replaced both of them in August and coming home in January my front slide topper slide right of the brackets driving down the highway I had to stop and cut the slide topper off the coach luckily no damage but I think they forgot to tighten it back down after they replaced the material. They had to remove the complete roller assembly because the old material was inside of it so it’s back at the same shop I wonder if he is going to charge me again ever hear of that ? 

I wish I had a dollar for every customer who said " I can get my toppers installed cheaper elsewhere. Any tech can change a topper ". The truth of the matter is, changing toppers on a Carefree assembly requires knowledge that many techs do not have. I have been hired and brought in to train technicians in several service centers and was at one time a technical resource for the Carefree factory.

There are inherent issues with Carefree assemblies and each model has its own set of problems that need to be inspected, checked and certain parts of the assembly modified to prevent future problems. I see by your post you have a 2009 Monaco. This means you have the Carefree SOK III model assembly. Starting in 2007/08 these assemblies started developing problems with the end caps loosening up. The other problem was roller tube end play. Just so you know the right end cap has a small tab which holds the tension on the spring. When this end cap starts loosening, the end cap tilts out at the top and the spring unwinds. When this happens while driving the fabric unfurls from the wind and it rips the roller tube out of the assembly. Either the roller tube and fabric ends up on the roof or smashes along the side of the coach. The roller tube end play also causes this issue as it will move back and forth between the end caps finally knocking one of the end caps off. ( Sidenote - If you have a topper that violently rips the roller tube off the coach, chances are it popped a belt line directly above the topper. The beltlines need to be checked in this area ).

This is where an experienced technician comes into play when changing a topper. You simply do not just swap fabric. You pull the right hand end caps off and inspect the spring hold down tab. Once assembled you also check for end play on the roller tube and install bushings if needed. You check the left side axle for wear as these have a bad habit of wearing out. You also check the mounting brackets of the assembly to be sure they are tight. And finally you install the end cap bolts using blue loctite. Out of the dozens of technicians I have trained over the years, none of them knew these issues existed. They just swapped the fabric.

The full wall assemblies have their problem areas and need closer attention then the standard SOK III's. They have some weak spots in them that need to be checked. I have had numerous customers lose their full wall assemblies out on freeways. The older style Omega assemblies also have their issues and need intervention when replacing fabric.   

[lake49068]

Back to the wipers!  Had ongoing issue with wipers stopping (thermal overload built into motor?).  Replaced motor and problem reoccured and found that there was binding of the shaft coming out through the cowl.  The round spring clip behind the wiper arm was too tight and the shaft seemed to be binding, too.  Pryed the spring clip out a bit to provide a little clearance and gave the shaft a shot of silicone lube.  No problems since and give the shaft and behind cowl linkages a shot of silicone lube periodically just in case.  And agree that 28" blades has got to help, too.

[Rowdyrick]

2 hours ago, lake49068 said:

Back to the wipers!  Had ongoing issue with wipers stopping (thermal overload built into motor?).  Replaced motor and problem reoccured and found that there was binding of the shaft coming out through the cowl.  The round spring clip behind the wiper arm was too tight and the shaft seemed to be binding, too.  Pryed the spring clip out a bit to provide a little clearance and gave the shaft a shot of silicone lube.  No problems since and give the shaft and behind cowl linkages a shot of silicone lube periodically just in case.  And agree that 28" blades has got to help, too.

Thanks I will lube it up also 

[Rowdyrick]

3 hours ago, throgmartin said:

I wish I had a dollar for every customer who said " I can get my toppers installed cheaper elsewhere. Any tech can change a topper ". The truth of the matter is, changing toppers on a Carefree assembly requires knowledge that many techs do not have. I have been hired and brought in to train technicians in several service centers and was at one time a technical resource for the Carefree factory.

There are inherent issues with Carefree assemblies and each model has its own set of problems that need to be inspected, checked and certain parts of the assembly modified to prevent future problems. I see by your post you have a 2009 Monaco. This means you have the Carefree SOK III model assembly. Starting in 2007/08 these assemblies started developing problems with the end caps loosening up. The other problem was roller tube end play. Just so you know the right end cap has a small tab which holds the tension on the spring. When this end cap starts loosening, the end cap tilts out at the top and the spring unwinds. When this happens while driving the fabric unfurls from the wind and it rips the roller tube out of the assembly. Either the roller tube and fabric ends up on the roof or smashes along the side of the coach. The roller tube end play also causes this issue as it will move back and forth between the end caps finally knocking one of the end caps off. ( Sidenote - If you have a topper that violently rips the roller tube off the coach, chances are it popped a belt line directly above the topper. The beltlines need to be checked in this area ).

This is where an experienced technician comes into play when changing a topper. You simply do not just swap fabric. You pull the right hand end caps off and inspect the spring hold down tab. Once assembled you also check for end play on the roller tube and install bushings if needed. You check the left side axle for wear as these have a bad habit of wearing out. You also check the mounting brackets of the assembly to be sure they are tight. And finally you install the end cap bolts using blue loctite. Out of the dozens of technicians I have trained over the years, none of them knew these issues existed. They just swapped the fabric.

The full wall assemblies have their problem areas and need closer attention then the standard SOK III's. They have some weak spots in them that need to be checked. I have had numerous customers lose their full wall assemblies out on freeways. The older style Omega assemblies also have their issues and need intervention when replacing fabric.   

Thanks for the info The person or company that replaced it has been in business for 57 years I hope they have been trained but as we all know he may have had an employee do it so I am going to ask these questions. On his business he says he is a carefree authorized repair center but who knows. I think the blue Loc tight is the key I don’t believe they tightened it because the hold down bolts are barely through the bracket I mean like a 1/16th of an inch the back is through about 1/4 inch. I am going to the shop tomorrow and ask questions 

Thanks