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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily Newsletter for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/40-monacoers-daily-newsletter/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 
Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index


Slide seals
Ivan K
Slide seals
Martinvz
Help reading schematics
Paul A.
2009 Monaco Cayman RR4 Sway Bar
JDCrow
2009 Monaco Cayman RR4 Sway Bar
Bob Keating
2009 Monaco Cayman RR4 Sway Bar
Tom Cherry
2009 Monaco Cayman RR4 Sway Bar
JDCrow
Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
tomevansfl
2009 Monaco Cayman RR4 Sway Bar
Ray Davis
Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
Tom Cherry
Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
Tom Cherry
Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
Dick Roberts
Mirror arms rechromed
throgmartin
2009 Monaco Cayman RR4 Sway Bar
JDCrow
Slide seals
Dawn Best
2009 Monaco Cayman RR4 Sway Bar
Bob Keating
Slide seals
Mark Holt
Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
jacwjames
Slide seals
Dawn Best
Weep Hole Covers
Dawn Best
Freedom awning adjustment.
Ron Shantos
Freedom awning adjustment.
Tom Cherry
Freedom awning adjustment.
bigbhb
Help reading schematics
Bruce S
Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
CAT Stephen
2002 Signature Alternator Replacement
Tom Cherry
Camco Water Heater Rinser is Perfect
Ray Davis
Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
jacwjames
Help reading schematics
veraken
Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
Tom Cherry
Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
Deepseated
Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
Tom Cherry
2002 Signature Alternator Replacement
hitechpete
Aqua Hot water temp low
hitechpete

Recent Posts


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
TomV48
14 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

point of clarification.  IF you have the dreaded SHEPHERD Steering Box (Sector), that is the FIRST THING you do.  Adding the Watts Link is a great fix for the wandering and such.  However, the sequence is SWAP STEERING BOXES TO TRW.  THEN install the Watts.

Yes, the Koni's will improve the ride....yes the RIDE.  But they do little if anything for the wandering and steering wheel play and getting jacked around when a truck passes you. 

Been THERE....DONE THAT....

Hi again Tom Cherry,

If I can't get Mike Hughes to swap my steering box in his shop, do we have any good recommendations on here for a reliable shop to do it for me.     I'm in SoCal. Haven't spoken to anyone near  here who makes me feel good about it and that I can cost justify.   I have been looking at a couple options around Coberg, OR.

Your wealth of knowledge is invaluable.

Thanks. Tom Pratt 


Slide seals
Ivan K

When we got the coach, the seals were feeling hard so I used Thetford seal conditioner. It made them softer and after running out of the spray can,  I only use 303 for UV protection. They are original and functioning fine after all those years.


Slide seals
Martinvz

The other product to use is Aerospace 303. Spray the liquid on liberally and wipe off.

use it on the tires and all rubber and plastic surfaces. It has a u/v inhibitor and prevents deterioration.


Help reading schematics
Paul A.

These folks are very good at what you are describing. Give them a call.  https://www.rvcams.com/


2009 Monaco Cayman RR4 Sway Bar
JDCrow
17 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK....history for Sway Bars.  Wayne Wells (several know him here) was a hitch and designer and prototyper for Roadmaster.  I have been dealing with him since 2012..  I talked to Source Engineering and ordered the sway bars for my Camelot.  They were DROP SHIPPED from Roadmaster.  Roadmaster made them and they were exclusively sold by Source.  They gave me Wayne's cell and all my dealing on installation went through him.  Source Engineering MAY have done some installs....but I think that several members actually got them put on at the Roadmaster "Hitch Installation" shop.

The Sway Bars will NOT correct the tail wagging and do what the Watts does.  Myself and at least one other...perhaps more....went down that path.  I installed the HD Source Bilstein shocks up front and the standard Source Bilsteins on the rear. NOW, Bilstein makes the SHOCKS.  Source Engineering paid for the Development work and testing for the custom tuned valving.  So, Bilstein will NOT sell them to anyone.  Source owns the intellectual property rights to them...  Bilstein makes them and ships to Source and Source stocks and sells them....NO BODY ELSE.

OK....when I did that I also opted for the Sway bars...Front and Rear.  Drop shipped from Roadmaster.  Wayne goofed and shipped the wrong one.  He took care of that and airfreighted me the correct one.

THAT is the History.  Wayne's FIL (dad?) had a Monaco MH.  Wayne experimented and then fabricated sway bars at Roadmaster.  They WORKED.  So Roadmaster and Wayne approached Monaco with them as a standard or an option.  Scott (Source) was involved.  Monaco passed on them.  When Scott and Jim were RIF'ed by Monaco, they opened Source.  The rest is history....and they became the exclusive and ONLY distributor for the Sway Bars.

NOW.....update....Wayne has LEFT Roadmaster.  SO, maybe there is some product info and savvy there....??  Maybe NOT.  I am really surprised, and a bit miffed, that Source did not return a call.  

BUT, if they lost their tech support there...maybe they decided to give up the exclusive distributorship rights to the sway bar....and Roadmaster is now marketing them.

Interesting.....

I goofed, I saw sway bar, and thought he meant trailing arm. I think trailing arm on the R4 for some reason. 
 

Sorry guys.

 

I have the source sway bars on my coach. They are a nice product. 


2009 Monaco Cayman RR4 Sway Bar
Bob Keating

Thanks to everyone that responded!

It appears that the Roadmaster 1209-145 is a bolt on kit with no welding. They did not have a price on the part, so I am assuming it is sold through a dealer network.

I will make some calls tomorrow.

Thanks again to everyone!


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
96 EVO
5 minutes ago, WayneC said:

 

I am skiddish like a cat when it comes to crawling underneath the rid, 

 

LOL.... Try crawling under there with an air powered grease gun, the 'H' frame about an inch above your chest, and the portable electric air compressor fires up 😮!

I almost sh** myself 😂!!

 


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
cbr046
4 minutes ago, WayneC said:

I am skiddish like a cat when it comes to crawling underneath the rid,firm ground and jack stands in the area where I am going to be,have to remember that there is no room for any of us under the coach if the air was ever dumped from the system,I will bring it to the truck shop if I am unsure. 

I would be comfortable with sticking a wooden block next to each air bag with jacks extended. 

- bob


2009 Monaco Cayman RR4 Sway Bar
Tom Cherry
19 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

That comes up as a sway bar? 
 

OK....history for Sway Bars.  Wayne Wells (several know him here) was a hitch and designer and prototyper for Roadmaster.  I have been dealing with him since 2012..  I talked to Source Engineering and ordered the sway bars for my Camelot.  They were DROP SHIPPED from Roadmaster.  Roadmaster made them and they were exclusively sold by Source.  They gave me Wayne's cell and all my dealing on installation went through him.  Source Engineering MAY have done some installs....but I think that several members actually got them put on at the Roadmaster "Hitch Installation" shop.

The Sway Bars will NOT correct the tail wagging and do what the Watts does.  Myself and at least one other...perhaps more....went down that path.  I installed the HD Source Bilstein shocks up front and the standard Source Bilsteins on the rear. NOW, Bilstein makes the SHOCKS.  Source Engineering paid for the Development work and testing for the custom tuned valving.  So, Bilstein will NOT sell them to anyone.  Source owns the intellectual property rights to them...  Bilstein makes them and ships to Source and Source stocks and sells them....NO BODY ELSE.

OK....when I did that I also opted for the Sway bars...Front and Rear.  Drop shipped from Roadmaster.  Wayne goofed and shipped the wrong one.  He took care of that and airfreighted me the correct one.

THAT is the History.  Wayne's FIL (dad?) had a Monaco MH.  Wayne experimented and then fabricated sway bars at Roadmaster.  They WORKED.  So Roadmaster and Wayne approached Monaco with them as a standard or an option.  Scott (Source) was involved.  Monaco passed on them.  When Scott and Jim were RIF'ed by Monaco, they opened Source.  The rest is history....and they became the exclusive and ONLY distributor for the Sway Bars.

NOW.....update....Wayne has LEFT Roadmaster.  SO, maybe there is some product info and savvy there....??  Maybe NOT.  I am really surprised, and a bit miffed, that Source did not return a call.  

BUT, if they lost their tech support there...maybe they decided to give up the exclusive distributorship rights to the sway bar....and Roadmaster is now marketing them.

Interesting.....


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
WayneC

We should talk about safety, Air ride and air brakes.

I am skiddish like a cat when it comes to crawling underneath the rid,firm ground and jack stands in the area where I am going to be,have to remember that there is no room for any of us under the coach if the air was ever dumped from the system,I will bring it to the truck shop if I am unsure. 

Airbrakes, if the button is pushed in and or brake seems to be dragging, set of good quality wheel chocks.

Wayne

1999 Signature ceaser 

 


2009 Monaco Cayman RR4 Sway Bar
JDCrow
20 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

That comes up as a sway bar? 
 


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
tomevansfl

Congratulations and welcome from the land of Mickey Mouse!


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
Ivan K

Being about the same vintage, my hydraulic slide switch is hidden in a cabinet above entry door, if you haven't looked there yet.


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
Tom Cherry
4 minutes ago, Dick Roberts said:

And that is why I love this site. So many good responses. Thanks to all y'all. I haven't checked but I must already have the TRW box, as I have almost NO play in my steering. No rolling, no wagging, just a big sail. When I was getting blown onto the rumble strips, the MH just slid over like it was on ice, so I'm hoping it's a result of bad tires. I started anticipating the wind from the big rigs as they approached and was able to keep it between the lines as they passed by the time I reached I-75 and home. I haven't checked for any other steering add-ons so I don't know about the Watts or shocks. I'll check tomorrow. Today was reg and title work, done, wipers done, and found a fuel cap first try at my local no name auto parts shop. I was amazed that in my little farm town of Bell FL, I was able to find both. Then I spent an hour looking for the slide switch. I know it has one, because I have a slide. But after searching inside and out, no switch found. My other failed attempt involved my awning. Can't get it to unlock and extend. I did find the sticking point, I think. It won't unlock. The lock mechanism on the struts is loose now, but the little gizmo lock on the awning itself is stuck, and I didn't have a big enough hammer to break it free. Tomorrow I'll try PB Blaster and the like to see if I can get it free. All my gauges are working and readable, except the tranny temp. After I get in touch with an Alison shop, I will look into the unit that monitors the systems in one screen. 

Wayne, here in FL they discontinued vehicle inspections years ago. Sadly. So you can buy or sell junk vehicles and put them right on the road. My tires are 2016, and have plenty of tread, but starting to check and probably hard with little traction. When I was getting blown of the road, there was no pressure on the steering wheel, it just slid across the pavement like it was on ice. New tires will correct that, I hope. 

Biggest concern for me tomorrow is unsticking the awning lock, and finding the switch for the slide. Any thoughts?

Thanks, 

https://www.monacocoach.com/service-and-repairs/

You sound like you do NOT have an Owner's Manual.  UNFORTUNATELY, the Monaco Online manuals begin in year 2000.  BUT, i would download the one for you rig and start reading it.  you can compare the pictures for the various components, switches, gages, etc.  THEN see how close.

If a member has a manual, in the past many would ask for a copy and of course, pick up the cost for scanning/copying at a local office supply house.  You might also, assuming you do NOT have a manual, try ebay.

OK....TRW or Shepherd.  That is the question.  The answer is easy.  It is in here but here is the easy way...

https://mrsteeringspecialist.com/product/ross-trw-pitman-steering-arm-box-448164/

https://mrsteeringspecialist.com/product/sheppard-pitman-steering-arm-box-m100-2596284/

Look at the pictures.  Notice on the TRW that there is a clamp or bolt that goes through the arm on the end.  But on the Shepherd, it just is driven on (splines engaged).  There will be an external device on the shaft of the Shepherd gear box that locks or holds the pitman arm on.  But the TRW uses the clamp or the bolt through it.  Crawl under and use your flashlight.  If you see the clamp or the bolt on the end of the arm....TRW.  Bolt or device that locks the arm onto the shaft - Shepherd.

NOW....back to the MANUAL.  If you do NOT have the manual, you really need to download the 2000.  At the end, there is a lubrication chart showing all the fittings.  ODDS ARE, you have TWO fittings on the steering linkage.  There is fitting UNDER the MH above the steering box.  Whilst under there looking at the arm, shine the light up and look or even feel around.  That one often escapes folks.  Then, assuming you have the tilt and telescoping steering column, you take the clamshell cover off (the one below the steering wheel).  There will be a fitting inside it.  Use a hand powered gun on it.

The usual drill for a NEW owner...and you said, I THINK, that you have some maintenance records....GO THROUGH THEM.  Look for the following

Chassis Lubrication, oil and filter change, fuel filters change, air filter change, front axle bearing packing, rear differential oil change.  Then look for the Genny service records for oil, air, fuel....  also look for dates when the coolant on the engine and generator was serviced.  The manual has the intervals....and you can also download a manual for the genny.


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
Tom Cherry
1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

Monaco actually installed their own sending units for the transmission temp, oil pressure, and engine temp and these provide the signals for the dash gauges.  So if your transmission is showing high on the dash it is different then what the ECM is seeing.  The sending unit for the tranny temp is mounted in an aluminum block on the hose going to the cooler, you can see if you get low and look at the transmission pan. 

The part number for my tranny temp sending unit is attached, it may be different then yours but gives you an idea what it looks like.

 

 

1 Transmission Oil Sending Unit.pdf 60.27 kB · 7 downloads

Be advised that a faulty gage can be because the original instrument cluster has issues with one particular gage.  Depending on what system (ACTI, Medallion or Faria...there may be others), there is a multipin connector that goes into a "central gage" or perhaps one of the main clusters. Then that cluster is like the "data collection center".  It sends out the signals to may other gages located in the dash.  So, a faulty Tranny Gage may be a bad sensor or it might be a bad gage.  You need to determine the brand or manufacturer of the gage cluster and see if you can get prints.  The prints will tell you which wire or input on the multipin (may be two) is the INPUT or the signal from the sensor.  Then you test that.  No signal....bingo....bad sensor.  Good signal....OPPS....the central unit has an issue or that gage has an issue.

If you watch the gages when your turn on the key, you may see them move.  If the suspect gage has NO movement (assuming they all do), then that may be the gage.

There are many topic (threads if you will) about getting older gages repaired.  The type of gage varies all over the map and the way it "moves" also.  Some are magnetic, some are stepper motor.  Some are direct reading (like an analog voltage meter) and the list goes on.  The folks that rebuild or repair the gages are like "watchmakers" in that they disassemble and do their magic.

Many folks have opted for letting a defective gage just "sit there" and then purchasing an aftermarket gage and mounting it.

So, there is not one good answer.  In the future, you might want to do some searches for gages and then look for topics that are specific for your year and model.  Takes a little work, but you benefit from what is in the site...

 


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
Dick Roberts

And that is why I love this site. So many good responses. Thanks to all y'all. I haven't checked but I must already have the TRW box, as I have almost NO play in my steering. No rolling, no wagging, just a big sail. When I was getting blown onto the rumble strips, the MH just slid over like it was on ice, so I'm hoping it's a result of bad tires. I started anticipating the wind from the big rigs as they approached and was able to keep it between the lines as they passed by the time I reached I-75 and home. I haven't checked for any other steering add-ons so I don't know about the Watts or shocks. I'll check tomorrow. Today was reg and title work, done, wipers done, and found a fuel cap first try at my local no name auto parts shop. I was amazed that in my little farm town of Bell FL, I was able to find both. Then I spent an hour looking for the slide switch. I know it has one, because I have a slide. But after searching inside and out, no switch found. My other failed attempt involved my awning. Can't get it to unlock and extend. I did find the sticking point, I think. It won't unlock. The lock mechanism on the struts is loose now, but the little gizmo lock on the awning itself is stuck, and I didn't have a big enough hammer to break it free. Tomorrow I'll try PB Blaster and the like to see if I can get it free. All my gauges are working and readable, except the tranny temp. After I get in touch with an Alison shop, I will look into the unit that monitors the systems in one screen. 

Wayne, here in FL they discontinued vehicle inspections years ago. Sadly. So you can buy or sell junk vehicles and put them right on the road. My tires are 2016, and have plenty of tread, but starting to check and probably hard with little traction. When I was getting blown of the road, there was no pressure on the steering wheel, it just slid across the pavement like it was on ice. New tires will correct that, I hope. 

Biggest concern for me tomorrow is unsticking the awning lock, and finding the switch for the slide. Any thoughts?

Thanks, 


Mirror arms rechromed
throgmartin
On 1/12/2023 at 12:44 PM, Paul A. said:

Reliable Plating in Milwaukee, Wi. is an OEM for HD. If it's convenient, you may want to consider them for plating needs. 

Paul:

As you know, I am passionate about supporting companies who support all of us. Some companies go out of their way to support Monaco brand owners. I will gladly pay a little more and support a company that has supported me or our Monaco group. My company has been dedicated to supporting Monaco owners since its first day of operation. I have traveled the country clocking over 80,000 miles giving seminars, working with coach owners and have conducted over 2,000 free inspections. I truly appreciate it when one of our members supports my small company.

In the case of you suggesting Reliable Plating, I felt it was a slap in the face to a man who lives and breathes Monaco and lending support, especially to this group. Dave Pratt, owner of Spacecoast Plating also owns this forum. He writes checks monthly out of his own pocket to keep this forum going. He works tirelessly putting together the Annual Monocoers Gathering. He has assisted in building one of the best Monaco technical files section in the country. Since Dave is a very dear and personal friend I know he spends countless hours on the phone consulting to owners on their coach problems..........For free. Him and I have taken calls at all hours of the day and night and even on holidays to help a stranded Monaco owner.

On Facebook and here you have a habit of touting and mentioning businesses that have never held a seminar, supported Monaco owners or spent a dime traveling to a Monaco rally to lend support. In this case I felt it was a huge slap in the face to Dave for mentioning a competitor on a forum that he owns. Dave and I both give a great deal of our time to Monaco owners and you recommending competitors who could care less about Monaco, HR, Safari and Beaver owners and who never jump on Facebook or this Forum to answer technical questions or assist an owner with a problem is a real kick in the ass.

In regards to our mirror's, not one individual in the plating industry knows more about the problems with our mirrors then Dave Pratt. While Reliable may be an HD - OEM supplier, it doesn't make them experts on our mirrors. The mirror's we run on our coaches have an inherent problem with flaking and rusting and Dave knows the reason why and his plating process corrects this issue.

 


2009 Monaco Cayman RR4 Sway Bar
JDCrow

Try his email

 

jim@sourcerv.com


Slide seals
Dawn Best

Thank you any particular brand and how often would you apply it?


2009 Monaco Cayman RR4 Sway Bar
Bob Keating

Does anyone know if the sway bar kit is still available for this chassis? My call to Source went unanswered, and Supersteer did not show one.

Thanks,


Slide seals
Mark Holt

Silicon spray. It does not attract and hold dust and debris. Insure it is 100% silicon


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
jacwjames

Monaco actually installed their own sending units for the transmission temp, oil pressure, and engine temp and these provide the signals for the dash gauges.  So if your transmission is showing high on the dash it is different then what the ECM is seeing.  The sending unit for the tranny temp is mounted in an aluminum block on the hose going to the cooler, you can see if you get low and look at the transmission pan. 

The part number for my tranny temp sending unit is attached, it may be different then yours but gives you an idea what it looks like.

 

 

1 Transmission Oil Sending Unit.pdf


Slide seals
Dawn Best

Newbie here I am getting g conflicting information is it advisable to lubricate the slide seals if it is, how to do it, what to use d how often?


Weep Hole Covers
Dawn Best

Newbie here can someone tell me what weep holes covers do and I I need them, all mine are missing I would need 10 sets in my 2003 Windsor.  Thank you

 


Freedom awning adjustment.
Ron Shantos

Brian, below is a picture of the endcap and where the tabs are located to remove it. Hope this helps.

Ron

 image.thumb.png.e639b0d5c4097fc1301257751c79d802.png


Freedom awning adjustment.
Tom Cherry
2 hours ago, bigbhb said:

Need to adjust ohd awning.The fabric goes out to far, causing arm to extend to far and lock,then cannot retract awning

Can't find manual to get end cap off,don't want to break it. serial # is on rail behind cap.

not sure if this model has adjustment on it,others when you extend them you can see the 2 adjustment arrows.

2006 monaco holiday rambler.

any help would help thank you

 

 

@throgmartin

Chris Throgmartin is a member and our resident expert of awnings and toppers.  He started out making Toppers and was a great source for many of us.  He has expanded his business and has an RV repair shop in Brooksville, FL.  His techs are specialists in awnings and toppers. 

However, Google is your friend and source.  Here is the manual with all the poop...

https://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/052978-021-Freedom-Installation-Manual.pdf

Good Luck.  Read it and then if you need help, contact Chris.... 


Freedom awning adjustment.
bigbhb

Need to adjust ohd awning.The fabric goes out to far, causing arm to extend to far and lock,then cannot retract awning

Can't find manual to get end cap off,don't want to break it. serial # is on rail behind cap.

not sure if this model has adjustment on it,others when you extend them you can see the 2 adjustment arrows.

2006 monaco holiday rambler.

any help would help thank you

 

 


Help reading schematics
Bruce S

I scanned my copy of this drawing but as was yours there is too much small print to come out all that clearly.  Hope this attachment helps somewhat - especially if you can blow it up on your pc.

03 Signature Bus Tap_Joystick dwg.pdf


2005 Scepter Step Cover won't extend or retract
Tom Cherry
1 hour ago, daveyjo said:

I am pretty sure it is pneumatic.  The coach, a 2005, was actually built in 2004 according to a sticker inside the coach.

To paraphrase the age old phrase....PRETTY SURE only counts in Hand Grenades and Horseshoes.

If you read Pete's post then you need to do some exploring and verify.  The 2005 year was the transition to where the Scepter/Camelot "Design" originated.  The Windsor's were badged as them, but the 2004 Scepter/Camelot/Windsor was totally different.  They DID have the Mac Valve and the air cylinder.

The type should be pretty easy to determine.  The air cylinder was much quieter.  The Dayton Motor made noise.  NOT objectional, but you were aware of a "Power Window motor" working.  Technically, it was NOT a Power Window motor but a larger DC motor in the left rear.  The 2009 Camelots and maybe lower were SUPPOSED to be upgraded to a TWO POWER WINDOW system....but that fell by the wayside.

The AIR Cylinder ones, I THINK....and you can ask some of the folks were straight IN and OUT.  Now, to confuse things....so were the later UPPER end Dynasty and above.  BUT, they had a set of stops or plastic supports on each side of the step well.  When the cover extended all the way, the frame rested on these two brackets....which commonly broke and are scarce and may have some folks 3D Printing them.

My System....the Dayton Single Motor is definitely MOTORIZED.  I can NOT tell you with 100% what yours is.  BUT, MOST of the Dayton's had a TWO PHASE action.  The cover came out.....and then at the very end, the entire assembly RAISED UP.  Conversely, in retraction, the first action was to LOWER and then start to retract.

You need to verify WHICH type you have....then start to trouble shoot.  The "Sound" you hear perfectly describes a Dayton motor being slightly "locked" or balky.  It is more of a CLUNK or a BUMP....and not the precise CLICK of a solenoid coil.

If you extend the generator and look on the firewall on the CURB side and have someone cycle the step, there should be a valve there and that should make a decided CLINK and you can put your hand on it and feel the coil cycle.  It will have air lines going to it.

No VALVE (maybe Pete can post a picture) then you have the Dayton System.

Figure out for CERTAIN which one you have and then start to trouble shoot or fix.  Otherwise, take it to a tech and tell him that the step cover don't work and let him fix it.

OK....the SEARCH is your friend.  I am NOT saying that your system is the same....but odds are...since this post was for a 2005 Windsor that was actually a 2005 Scepter/Camelot with Windsor badges, my hunch is that you have the electric....just because it was built in 2004 is NOT sufficient to say it has air....

Read this post.  Then, go outside and locate your MAC Valve with the air hoses.  NO VALVE....then you have what your sales brochure and owner's manual calls for....ALL ELECTRIC STEP WELL COVER... Your first comment about the noise was the dead giveaway as you hear that INSIDE...coming from right under the floor where the step retracts into....

BUT...I could be wrong and will not wager on it....

 


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
CAT Stephen

Congratulations Dick,

 

Welcome to motorhome ownership!  A motorhome is just like a BOAT (Break Out Another Thousand) 😄  But, I would not trade the motorhome experience for anything!!

To help you with the issues discovered:

  • Fuel Cap
    • The best place to buy a fuel cap is to visit an Autozone or Advanced Auto as they have many fuel caps in stock.  Bring your existing fuel cap into the store and start comparing until you find the matching fuel cap then buy a spare just in case.  Make sure to bring your motorhome so that you can test the new fuel cap in the parking lot so avoid many trips back and forth.
  • Transmission Temperature Gage
    • Allison Transmission puts their data stream on the J1708 Canbus or the J1939 Canbus, depending on how your motorhome is equipped
      • Using your Engine Make and Model, call your local engine dealer and have them look up the canbus type for you.  It will be either the J1708 canbus or the J1939 canbus)
      • Select a Canbus to Bluetooth adapter from Bluefirellc.com and view page 7 to determine which engine canbus interface is required on page 7 
      • Purchase a Canbus to Bluetooth adapter from Bluefirellc.com using the outcome of the getting started guide on page 7
      • After receiving your canbus adapter and loading the Bluefire software on your iPhone or Android, check to see if your transmission temperature is being transmitted on the canbus while the engine is running:
        • If you see Transmission temperature data on the Canbus, then your dashboard transmission temperature gage is defective (95% probability) or your wiring to your dashboard transmission temperature gage is defective (5% probability)
        • If you don't see Transmission temperature data on the Canbus, then your transmission temperature sensor is defective.

If you prefer not to troubleshoot your transmission temperature sensor via DIY, you can have your transmission temperature sensor checked by an Allison Transmission authorized service center.  Be prepared to spend ~$200+ to have an Allison Transmission authorized service center diagnose this issue for you.  

You probably have an Allison MD3060 transmission.  I believe this transmission will require a TranSynd fluid change to replace the transmission temperature sender if the temperature sender is defective.  If that is the case, the TranSynd fluid and filter change will cost ~$600-$800 to have an Allison Transmission authorized service center do this fluid change for you.  You also have a transmission retarder, so the TranSynd fluid will need to be replaced every ~15000 to ~20000 miles, depending on your duty cycle as specified by Allison Transmission.  

You should proceed to replace the transmission fluid and filters in any case as soon as possible except in the case that you have service documentation from the prior owner where you definitively know when the transmission fluid and filters were last changed.  Keep in mind that replacing or overhauling an Allison Transmission in a motorhome can cost between ~$10000-$20000, so don't skimp on Allison transmission maintenance. 

 

 


2002 Signature Alternator Replacement
Tom Cherry
18 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

Something i have seen over the years is the opting to ALWAYS wanting to go new rather than rebuild, i suspect this comes from the idea we always want New, that New is always “better” and i will concede there are times it is. However when i took my alternator off while i was replacing my water pump, hoses and alike i had my alternator “rebuilt” knock on wood its working great. Now the reason im posting is not to share a story to compeate with the new vs rebuilt instead its about the loss of the trade, when i was searcing for a shop to do the work, many had been shuttered due to lack of avaiable parts, and or qualified personell. Finally found one located in a schetchy part of town 70 miles away, the owner had a story of his own that bent towards the influx of Chinese parts an componits that was making good solid repairs difficult. Folks i get the idea that we all just want to be on our merry way an to not be bothered by Messy things like breakdowns or people problems, but im here to say that our common man is worth whatever it takes to invest in them. As a tradsman who watched happen replace rather than rebuild, the impact it has had on the industry has been tremendous, that everyone needs to decide for themselves which dirrection they should head. But for me i will choose to rebuild first, in hopes it gives some type of support to the people who make a living doing so. Remember Mechanics were originally there to repair… not to simply replace!

Just another idea worth thinking about when making your decision😎

Short version of the REBUILD and NOT REPLACE WITH ANYTHING ELSE BUT LEECE-NEVILLE.  We were not as electronically blessed in the early years (say 2009) as we are now with members.  There were many tales of where "Charley Shade Tree" said it would work and then several thousand miles and four states later.  DISASTER.

So, the consensus, and also frequently parroted by the Moderators, was to REBUILD.  Then the inevitable....the rebuilds were sub standard and/or the parts were NOT OEM equivalent.  That continued for many years, as Chuck commented. 

BUT, with more folks here and a great wealth of individuals with electrical and electronic savvy, we have actually morphed and improved.  Old habits die hard....but now, after folks find shops or themselves are technically competent.....replacement with a NON LEECE NEVILLE, per Van's details is more common.  BUT, it is a sound practice for a quality shop to rebuild....totally....and put in OEM LN parts.  That works....and may be the best....but we do have alternatives now.

 


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
6Wheels

Now what?  Dig deep into those pockets!😇

 


Camco Water Heater Rinser is Perfect
saflyer
11 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Good question, so I took a look and it says it is,  below is a quote from them.  I bet you can buy one a Harbor Freight or at many other stores however the one I have doesn't have a light in it.  The light shining down inside the tank while you fish seems like a possible game changer.   I have a really good LED flashlight but in cases like yours it will blind me, a case of too bright.

EASY TO USE-save yourself the headache and reach a flexible pick-up tool up to 36 inches into cramped, tight, or dark spaces

I don't blame you.  It would probably be ok, but who knows what the Chinese may put in the plastic.  Remember the sheetrock a few yrs back.

Missed that. But still wondering if it will be like the dog with a 3 foot long stick in its mouth trying to go through a 2 foot wide door?


Camco Water Heater Rinser is Perfect
Ray Davis
1 minute ago, saflyer said:

They don’t indicate if it’s flexible. Is it?

Good question, so I took a look and it says it is,  below is a quote from them.  I bet you can buy one a Harbor Freight or at many other stores however the one I have doesn't have a light in it.  The light shining down inside the tank while you fish seems like a possible game changer.   I have a really good LED flashlight but in cases like yours it will blind me, a case of too bright.

EASY TO USE-save yourself the headache and reach a flexible pick-up tool up to 36 inches into cramped, tight, or dark spaces

4 minutes ago, saflyer said:

still don’t like leaving it in there, though.

I don't blame you.  It would probably be ok, but who knows what the Chinese may put in the plastic.  Remember the sheetrock a few yrs back.


Camco Water Heater Rinser is Perfect
saflyer
18 minutes ago, lusgi said:

Just leave it?

That’s the advice of Camco. They say the melting temperature of the nozzle is 230-250°. I located it using my borescope. I might be able to hook it with a coat hangar or claw tool. But once I get it to the drain orienting it to remove will be difficult.

I still don’t like leaving it in there, though.


Can a MH reverse with toad in an "emergency"?
Scotty Hutto

Just one solitary data point, but I don’t do it… anymore. 

No pictures, but… circa 2013, 2002 Holiday Rambler Vacationer 34’ with a 2005 Honda Pilot toad. I was a newbie and got in a bind trying to make a u-turn… only needed to back up about a foot.  Bent my tow bar. Fortunately, Roadmaster was able to rebuild it with new arms and I used it 4 more years, but it was a $400 lesson. 🤦🏻‍♂️ After that, I unhook no matter what. (And I’m sure I’ll have another unavoidable situation at some point, but I try really hard not to put myself in a position to ever need to back up with the toad attached, as I’m sure we all do.)


2002 Signature Alternator Replacement
Rikadoo

Something i have seen over the years is the opting to ALWAYS wanting to go new rather than rebuild, i suspect this comes from the idea we always want New, that New is always “better” and i will concede there are times it is. However when i took my alternator off while i was replacing my water pump, hoses and alike i had my alternator “rebuilt” knock on wood its working great. Now the reason im posting is not to share a story to compeate with the new vs rebuilt instead its about the loss of the trade, when i was searcing for a shop to do the work, many had been shuttered due to lack of avaiable parts, and or qualified personell. Finally found one located in a schetchy part of town 70 miles away, the owner had a story of his own that bent towards the influx of Chinese parts an componits that was making good solid repairs difficult. Folks i get the idea that we all just want to be on our merry way an to not be bothered by Messy things like breakdowns or people problems, but im here to say that our common man is worth whatever it takes to invest in them. As a tradsman who watched happen replace rather than rebuild, the impact it has had on the industry has been tremendous, that everyone needs to decide for themselves which dirrection they should head. But for me i will choose to rebuild first, in hopes it gives some type of support to the people who make a living doing so. Remember Mechanics were originally there to repair… not to simply replace!

Just another idea worth thinking about when making your decision😎


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
cbr046

The County DMV's can't keep track of everyone else's county tax and be expected to transfer said tax to home county so yeah . . . . you need to register in your home county.  But a State DMV can do all that.  Same in GA. 

If you think your Dip blows all over the road try driving an old Ford F53 based motorhome.  We went from Ford to Roadmaster (Monaco family) and was in pure heaven.  Our Endeavor (Holiday Rambler sister to the Diplomat) is worlds above the old gasser.  And yes, ours has the Shepherd steering box (no Watts link). 

One of Cummins' weak links is the CAPS fuel pump on your 98 ISC motor.  It PULLS fuel from the tank to the motor that strains the pump.  There's a lift pump that runs for 30 sec to aid in starting but that's it.  Oh, and the lift pump, located about a foot above the starter, has been known to stop working and even leak (thanks to our gov't mandated ULSD fuel).  Once they leak they also suck air into the CAPS pump.  Very bad.  Several of us have installed an aftermarket fuel pump to supply the CAPS pump with positive pressure while the engine is running.  Just Google FASS in any of the RV forums.  $700 is a much better investment than $4,000. 

My gauges are also wonky, except for the low "get fuel NOW" fuel light which is pretty accurate.  On my drool list is the VmSpec monitoring system.  All the gauges on one glass display, AND they're dependable and accurate.  You'll find your chassis tank gauges are also inaccurate but, except for the black tank, not nearly as critical. 

Depend on the great straight shooting advice on this forum. 

Enjoy your new adventure.

- bob


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
Twomed

Best part about motorhome over the boat you can go farther quicker...even better they don't sink!  Welcome aboard. 😊


Air brake system for flat towing. I have air line to the back wondering what brake system might work?
Scotty Hutto

Just chiming in late… I use the M&G system (with break-away air reservoir) and it works well. Accidentally tested the break-away system a couple of months back and it works well too! 🤣 The other option I considered was the Roadmaster Brakemaster. You can’t go wrong with either.  In my case I have one (brand new) toad that I planned to keep a very long time, and liked the permanent installation of the M&G. If I had envisioned a new toad, or multiple toads, that would have pushed me towards the Brakemaster. YMMV.

Also have the Roadmaster NightHawk.  Bought it because a) it looked cool, and b) I was at the FMCA rally in 2018 and Roadmaster gave me a healthy discount for trading in my old (2006) Roadmaster tow bar. What I’ve found is that the lighted bar is very useful when towing at night. I can see the front of my toad in my rear camera, and it’s saved my shins countless times 🤪


Camco Water Heater Rinser is Perfect
lusgi

Just leave it?


Camco Water Heater Rinser is Perfect
saflyer
20 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

They don’t indicate if it’s flexible. Is it?


2005 Scepter Step Cover won't extend or retract
daveyjo
12 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

You have the single motor (Dayton).  There are several topic that discuss this,  ODDS ARE…. You need to get under it and tighten the screws and lube the lead screw. BUT….to do it easily, you need to get it out.  Once it gets into a funk, here is what has worked for me and others.

FIRST….HOLD the switch in the EXTEND position for a few seconds,  As it ages or the mechanism gets dry or the glides get loose, it takes more torque to move  Riding down the highway, the vibration will actually make it work better as the “mechanism” is flexing and is looser.  If that works, then you have to remember NOT to bump it and panic (TRUST ME…this is the voice of experience…LOL)

NEXT…no joy in the above.  Push it IN..as hard as you can…don’t hit it with a sledge, but get it seated in the IN position.  SOMETIMES it can be bumped and then lock up.  NOW try the above.  OK….NO JOY, then do the opposite.  Hold down the EXTEND switch and gently but firmly PULL it out.  You MIGHT actually sort of grab and jerk it.  You are trying to break the mechanism loose.  Don’t beat it to death, but help it,  

NOW….once it is OUT or even partially out….leave it that way.  THEN, when you are able, fully extend it (weather permitting…..I spent a LOT of time in MN and Duluth), then get your LED flashlight and look up under it and tighten every screw on the mechanism and the glides and lube (some like a Teflon spray…just don’t spray the motor) or use a Garage Door lube on the lewd screw.  Do NOT overdo it.

NOW, from NOW ON, caution anyone to HOLD down the switch so it cycles and never, ever again….BUMP IT.

Worked for me (and tech didn’t charge me a bundle) and tested it for 30 days,  DW bumped it and panicked.  I got it moving and changed her technique and it runs perfectly.  NOT like new….it is older….so you treat it was a little respect.

Good Luck…
 

I am pretty sure it is pneumatic.  The coach, a 2005, was actually built in 2004 according to a sticker inside the coach.


2005 Scepter Step Cover won't extend or retract
hitechpete

Thanks for the explanation of Bump Tom.

My 2000 Diplomat had a similar issue; I could never get the step cover to reliably move out and always suspected the pneumatic valve fitted to the outside of the front firewall. I also had issues with various gauges not displaying correct information re engine temp, fuel level, speed etc, as a last ditch attempt at a fix I installed an additional ground wire behind the speedometer, low and behold all the issues went away and the step cover began to work reliably!


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
jacwjames

If you like tinkering/fixing/ repairing/learning you will enjoy the rig.  But owning an RV similar to what you purchased is not for the faint of heart, get ready to spend some money BUT if you an avid DYI'er you can save a lot of money.   You've joined a good group to help you on your journey 

When I bought my coach in Florida I had to drive it back 800 miles to E TN, flew down with a small carry on and drove it back with no tools, just took a leap of faith and I got lucky.   First thing I did was take it to the nearest Cummins shop, I knew the manager and he took care of me, I asked for a complete inspection and health report and it came back with flying colors.  This gave me a base line going forward.  He also downloaded the ECM onto a disc and gave me a paper copy, good thing to do if you ever have it in a shop.

My dash gauges are pretty much useless.  Fuel gauge was never accurate, there is a calibration you can try but it didn't help mine much.  My oil pressure gauge showed oil pressure pegged when I first bought the coach, had Cummins check it and they said that the sensor was installed in the wrong port, they moved it but the gauge still reads wrong.  The rest of the gauges are barely visible when driving  So after have it a couple years I finally decided to get a Silverleaf VMSpc monitoring system (there are other options), you can display any of the stats that the ECM monitors and set up a display screed to your liking.  This gives me real time information.  It also has a fuel tank monitor, you put in your tank capacity and based on ECM fuel consumption you get a very accurate tank monitor, mine is usually within 1% of actual when I fill up the tank. 

So, just keep asking questions, lots of knowledgeable people here to help.


Help reading schematics
veraken

Here is a copy of the wiring for a 2003 Dynasty but alot of the diagrams show that they are also for a Sig.  Hope it helps

https://www.irv2.com/forums/downloads.php?do=file&id=300

 


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
Tom Cherry
7 hours ago, TomV48 said:

Take a look at MonacoWatts.com.  I had a terrifying first trip like the white knuckle drive you spoke of.   Not sure I had even put my "big blue" SafeTPlus on yet.  It was just our first step.

A watts link on the front all but eliminated the roll feeling.  And the rear  cross braces between the back trailing arms and no more tail wag.  If you are lucky you will have a trw steering gear and you can adjust some of the slop out of that.  Sadly we have a Shepard M-100 with a ton of slop and no adjusting screw.  But hey. If this is your first DP like ours was for me, you've got world's to learn.     

BTW although we have spent some  money but 22,000 miles so far we are in love with ours.   After the exhaust manifold leak, if we have any money left, I am ogling those big fat Gold Koni shocks and dreaming about swopping out the M100 steering gear for a TRW.  $$$$

 

point of clarification.  IF you have the dreaded SHEPHERD Steering Box (Sector), that is the FIRST THING you do.  Adding the Watts Link is a great fix for the wandering and such.  However, the sequence is SWAP STEERING BOXES TO TRW.  THEN install the Watts.

Yes, the Koni's will improve the ride....yes the RIDE.  But they do little if anything for the wandering and steering wheel play and getting jacked around when a truck passes you. 

Been THERE....DONE THAT....


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
Deepseated

Welcome, sounds like you are off to a great start. I would encourage you to poke around on this site, the manuals section is l well stocked.


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
Tom Cherry
9 hours ago, Dick Roberts said:

I drove my new MH home today. 99 Diplomat 38A DP. Most nerve wracking 200 miles I've driven since my first solo trip in a car from FL to MI when I was 17. Picked it up in Winter Springs near Orlando. Less than 10 miles to the toll roads, didn't really get used to air brakes, turning, accelerating, and steering. By the time I got to the second turnpike, my hands had unclenched a little and feeling had returned to my fingers. By the time I got to the FL Turnpike I had figured out how to set the cruise control. Even with that big blue steering stabilizer I found myself getting blown onto the rumble strips by every big rig that passed me. Knowing I couldn't rely on the fuel gauge, where the needle was at the red bars which I think means 'start looking for a fuel stop', I stopped at the Okahumpka Service Plaza and added 50 gals to my 100 gal tank. I figured it give me about 3/4 tank. It filed it to the neck. DamnItMan! That's when I discovered this MH has a fuel door on both sides of the coach. And that the one on the passenger side is missing the cap. I know this because after fueling, I drove to the parking side and got out to go inside the store to grab some lunch, and when I came out the door, the smell of diesel was really strong. Looked right as I exited and notice diesel running down the side of the coach. Open door, and no cap. Stuffed a rag in the neck for a temp fix. Stopped at multiple truck stops on I 75, but couldn't find a cap. On my list for tomorrow along with a visit to the DMV. Side note, did y'all know that a new FL regulation/law/f*ck you joe citizen, or what ever they call it took affect the beginning of 2023? If you register your vehicle at a County Tax Collector/DMV office, it must be the office in your home county. If it's strictly a State DMV, you're fine. But if it's a County building, gotta be home. Closest State office was 219 miles South of where we were. So seller signed all the paperwork and I drove home on his tag. 

The MH seems to be in fairly good shape, engine wise. Plenty of power on the highway. But seems really sluggish from a dead stop. I noticed the transmission temp gage wasn't working. I'm guessing if they went to the trouble to put a tranny temp gage in it must be important to know what temp the tranny is running. Anybody have experience with that repair? 

When I first looked at this MH, the house batteries were dead and the generator wouldn't start, and there was no shore power available. So I couldn't check any of the systems other than the motor fired right up. I was hoping to talk the seller down on price because of that, and the fact it needs new tires. Just my luck, the genny started today, but I still got him to drop the price a little. 

Tomorrow I'll start checking out the various systems onboard and fluids, belts and hoses. Our full time RV life is becoming a reality. We can't wait.

Welcome,

I could not help but give you a piece of advice that a buddy gave me.  He had a 40 footer sail boat and lived with he and his wife, they took early retirement, for several years until I lured him back and he was a valued consultant....and they gave up the nautical life to be in port near their parents who needed care.  He was very good at repairs.

He said that owning a motor home or a off shore sail boat gave you the opportunity to make repairs in more exotic climes than what your classic car would do when it died in your garage.  YES....get the Tranny Temp sensor working....it should, after maybe 25 miles be close to the engine temperature....


2005 Scepter Step Cover won't extend or retract
Tom Cherry
55 minutes ago, hitechpete said:

What does “Bump” mean?

BUMP = When you push the button (either way) and hold it for a second or so and you hear the sound of the "Motor", but it does not let off and you panic.  In other words, You need to hold it down and let the motor work.  

BTW, I looked, just to verify, at the 2005 Scepter Sales Brochure and it says ALL ELECTRIC STEPWELL COVER.  Some of the earlier ones had air cylinders.  The ALL ELECTRIC have (typically through the 2010's...which were for the Camelot and Scepter and below) a SINGLE Dayton motor and lead screw that reverses. The noise that the OP described is the mechanism being "cantankerous" and sort of locked up.  There are also TWO relays, typically in the front run bay.  One for IN and one for OUT.  They rarely fail, but if you reverse them and the cover moves....REPLACE BOTH.

NOW....your 2000 Diplomat, per the Sales Brochure (Online still with Monaco) lists YOUR STEP WELL COVER AS AIR OPERATED.  Therefore you do not have the Dayton motor. PROBABLY a relay to operate the valve, but I don't have a clue, so you need to look at your prints and understand the circuit.  MEMORY says that the MAC (the valve that moves it back and forth) sometimes failed. 

That means that my instructions to the OP for his 2005 Scepter do not pertain to your MH...

Thanks for asking and allowing me to clear that up 


2002 Signature Alternator Replacement
hitechpete
14 hours ago, jjroxus said:

Very Good Info Guys! Thanks!

Tom, thank you for all the work you put into the site...Much appreciated.  I haven't read Vanwill's article yet.  I will look into it tonight.

If I can put in a Delco,  get it lined up and use the old LN pulley without having to re-engineer the mounting system, that would be great.  It's not going to be a fun job and place to work in for sure... I think I am pretty much committed to a new alternator one way or the other since the foot on the LN is cracked.

All The Best,

JJ

I had my faulty LN alternator replaced with a Delco back in 2013, I believe that the original pulley was reused without issue. My only note would be that in order to turn on charging when first starting the engine, I had to raise the engine revs slightly, which wasn’t an issue for me. The same alternator is still working in 2023.


Aqua Hot water temp low
hitechpete
On 1/14/2023 at 11:04 PM, Corkman said:

Thanks for the info Frank. I didn't find it, but which way do I turn it to increase the hot water temp?

image.thumb.jpeg.a864931372bd0be93a0e06142008a2fb.jpegIf you look at the above image, you can see a small red triangle, and on the left of the knob the number 4, while to the right, number 1 is just visible. I the attached photo the tempering valve is set at 3 (curtesy of Aquahot).


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
Dr4Film

Dick R,

You have come to the very BEST place on the Internet for HELP and information. Just remember that there is no STUPID question so when in doubt just ask. Once you get used to the forum and how it operates you can use the search function to read about many problems and solutions that have been covered previously. I would also strongly suggest downloading the Monacoers Parts List to your local device so it will be handy when you don't have a good Internet connection.

You won't find any snarky remarks here like you will in other forums and if there are they are dealt with quickly. We are here to learn and help our members so we can enjoy our Monaco coaches for many years to come.

There is also a yearly Gathering held at Lazy Days every February which is a "must do" especially for newbies. The 2023 one will be February 14th through the 19th. You can read about it here. 

 


2005 Scepter Step Cover won't extend or retract
hitechpete
10 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

You have the single motor (Dayton).  There are several topic that discuss this,  ODDS ARE…. You need to get under it and tighten the screws and lube the lead screw. BUT….to do it easily, you need to get it out.  Once it gets into a funk, here is what has worked for me and others.

FIRST….HOLD the switch in the EXTEND position for a few seconds,  As it ages or the mechanism gets dry or the glides get loose, it takes more torque to move  Riding down the highway, the vibration will actually make it work better as the “mechanism” is flexing and is looser.  If that works, then you have to remember NOT to bump it and panic (TRUST ME…this is the voice of experience…LOL)

NEXT…no joy in the above.  Push it IN..as hard as you can…don’t hit it with a sledge, but get it seated in the IN position.  SOMETIMES it can be bumped and then lock up.  NOW try the above.  OK….NO JOY, then do the opposite.  Hold down the EXTEND switch and gently but firmly PULL it out.  You MIGHT actually sort of grab and jerk it.  You are trying to break the mechanism loose.  Don’t beat it to death, but help it,  

NOW….once it is OUT or even partially out….leave it that way.  THEN, when you are able, fully extend it (weather permitting…..I spent a LOT of time in MN and Duluth), then get your LED flashlight and look up under it and tighten every screw on the mechanism and the glides and lube (some like a Teflon spray…just don’t spray the motor) or use a Garage Door lube on the lewd screw.  Do NOT overdo it.

NOW, from NOW ON, caution anyone to HOLD down the switch so it cycles and never, ever again….BUMP IT.

Worked for me (and tech didn’t charge me a bundle) and tested it for 30 days,  DW bumped it and panicked.  I got it moving and changed her technique and it runs perfectly.  NOT like new….it is older….so you treat it was a little respect.

Good Luck…
 

What does “Bump” mean?


Sold my boat, Bought an RV. Now what?
WayneC

Welcome

You won't need to find another hobby for a while, it will make you laugh and then cry. All good.

Owners manual,read it from cover to cover over and over again.there is an online Motor coach course you can take,if your interested send me your personal email and I can forward you the link with a preview. There are a number of air brake courses as well,In Canada mandatory to have an air brake certification to drive any air brake equipment on public roads,(Canadian citizens)

I am curious how the seller could sell the coach without a fuel cap,tires ,does the coach not need to be certified before it goes out onto public roads ?

Wayne 

1999 Signature ceaser 

 



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