1nolaguy Posted January 26, 2023 Share Posted January 26, 2023 Hi Folks. We have a 2005 Safari Cheetah 40dst. In that year, and a few either side of it, Monaco made this layout under several brands but all with the 40DST model. Although there may be differences in engine or chassis it is my understanding the basic "box" or "house" units were the same except for styling. I am hoping the electrical wiring layout was the same and that perhaps someone in the group might have a schematic. I looked in the down loads section and could not identify one. I have one for a 2004 Safari Night but that does not give me a house diagram. I also have a collection of diagrams for diesel Holiday Ramblers in this age range but they are all focused the chassis and fuse systems not the house layout. Lastly I have the ones for 2005 Safari Simba but not my size or floor plan. If anybody has a 2005 40DST floor plan electrical schematic they are willing to share please let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterskier_1 Posted January 26, 2023 Share Posted January 26, 2023 Which equivalent Monaco model coach do you have? 40DST iis a floor plan, not a model. _Rick N. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted January 26, 2023 Author Share Posted January 26, 2023 I have a 2005 Safari Cheetah 40DST. As a example the 2005 HR Endeavor 40 DST is almost identical as is the 2005 Monaco Diplomat 40DST. The 2005 Monaco Santiam 40 is very similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterskier_1 Posted January 26, 2023 Share Posted January 26, 2023 I have copy of 2005 Knight, and 2006 Diplomat and 2006 Endeavour if either of those will help. -Rick N. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Hutto Posted January 27, 2023 Share Posted January 27, 2023 Here is a link to the 2006 Diplomat schematics in our files section. I’ve used it many times for my Diplomat 40DST. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted January 27, 2023 Author Share Posted January 27, 2023 2 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said: Here is a link to the 2006 Diplomat schematics in our files section. I’ve used it many times for my Diplomat 40DST. Thanks Scotty. I think this may work for me. I will print out next week and take to where the coach is in storage. It amazed me how many outlets and connections are on the single 20 amp circuit from the original inverter. DO you by chance have one for the 12v system? Waterskier_1 I already have the 2006 Diplomat from Scotty but would appreciate the Endevor and the 2005 Knight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Hutto Posted January 27, 2023 Share Posted January 27, 2023 This *should* have both the 120v and 12v systems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted January 27, 2023 Author Share Posted January 27, 2023 Waterskier_1 I already have the 2006 Diplomat from Scotty but would appreciate the Endevor and the 2005 Knight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven P Posted January 31, 2023 Share Posted January 31, 2023 On 1/26/2023 at 6:48 PM, Scotty Hutto said: Here is a link to the 2006 Diplomat schematics in our files section. I’ve used it many times for my Diplomat 40DST. Unsure if it's my phone or what, but I cannot open these files. Says restricted? Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank McElroy Posted February 6, 2023 Share Posted February 6, 2023 On 1/30/2023 at 8:35 PM, Steven P said: Unsure if it's my phone or what, but I cannot open these files. Says restricted? Any ideas? You need to be logged in to view files. If you are viewing the site as a guest, you will not be able to open files. On 1/26/2023 at 10:31 PM, 1nolaguy said: Thanks Scotty. I think this may work for me. I will print out next week and take to where the coach is in storage. It amazed me how many outlets and connections are on the single 20 amp circuit from the original inverter. DO you by chance have one for the 12v system? Waterskier_1 I already have the 2006 Diplomat from Scotty but would appreciate the Endevor and the 2005 Knight. The link will have two files to download. One for the 12 volt system and another for the 120 volt system. Download both sets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterskier_1 Posted February 6, 2023 Share Posted February 6, 2023 On 1/27/2023 at 7:33 AM, 1nolaguy said: Waterskier_1 I already have the 2006 Diplomat from Scotty but would appreciate the Endevor and the 2005 Knight. I am attaching the 2006 Endeavor 120 VAC Wiring Diagram. I believe it is the same as for Dip but doesn't give the detail you are looking for. 2006 HR Endeavor 120V AC Schematic.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted February 6, 2023 Author Share Posted February 6, 2023 Thanks all. A lot of these will be helpful, especially the Diplomat link posted by Steven P, which seems most similar to mine. BTW can anyone one tell me what a BOC Junction box is? I am guessing "Back of Coach" but that covers quite some area. Also, is it located under the coach or somewhere inside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted February 6, 2023 Share Posted February 6, 2023 24 minutes ago, 1nolaguy said: Thanks all. A lot of these will be helpful, especially the Diplomat link posted by Steven P, which seems most similar to mine. BTW can anyone one tell me what a BOC Junction box is? I am guessing "Back of Coach" but that covers quite some area. Also, is it located under the coach or somewhere inside? No real IDEA....but, TRUST ME ON THIS....if this drawing is correct....then you are in for a HEAP OF TROUBLE. Don't know how familiar you are with GFCI, but this is the STRANGEST wiring diagram that I have seen on a Monaco MH. So....follow along. The 20 Amp output comes from the Inverter and it runs to J-Box 1 (B)...then through J-Box 2 (B) to the microwave. That is OK... BUT....look at the 15 Amp output. From J-Box 7(B)...it goes to (the wire on the RIGHT SIDE) to J-Box 3 (B)...and then it wanders..... The GOOD NEWS....is that as it exits on the LEFT SIDE....your Icemaker outlet for the Refrigerator is NEXT. WHY....many had the GFCI next...and the icemakers were notorious for false tripping from an icemaker. You HOME has a dedicated circuit for the Refrigerator....and NO GFCI (same as the Microwave... OK....keep trucking....the Icemaker goes to the GFCI....That's FINE....But then it gets spooky.... The next one is a Bathroom. COOL....that is required. BUT....then the J-Box 8(A). NOW remember that everything on this is the LOAD SIDE of the GFCI. And a BUNCH of the receptacles do NOT need nor SHOULD they be on a LOAD PROTECTED GFCI Line... BOC and F Dresser....NOPE....bad news... Now keep going....the Dinette and Computer PROBABLY do NOT (Assuming they are 5 feet away from a faucet or water source) need to be on the LOAD SIDE. NOT GOOD. NOW follow the line from around 4:00 or the lower LEFT CORNER.... It goes to J-Box 6(B). There is a MISTAKE in the drawing. This line should have one of the OPEN loops on it. I shows it as an INTERSECTION. Can't be....ad then the circuit from the 15A and 20A would be backfeeding or connected together. OBVIOUS Drafting error not picked up. IT HAPPENS....trust me....I have missed these in checking and also when I drew prints and others checked. SO...this is a PLAIN line going down to the J-Box 6(B).... NOW....you have the MAJOR WIRING ERROR.....There is a DOWNSTREAM GFRCI being fed from the LOAD SIDE of an UPSTREAM GFCI. This is NOT GOOD and TOTALLY AGAINST CODE... Don't know why you needed this or if you have a problem....but if Monaco wired it like it shows...YOU DO HAVE A MAJOR ISSUE....to correct it.... and this is simple and any electrician can do it... On the Lav GFCI right after the ICEMAKER....move the LOAD (Bottom wires of the GFCI MARKED LOAD to the LINE. OK....that now creates another problem...BUT that outlet (Lavatory) will trip if there is a fault....so you STILL PROTECTED... On the Bathroom Receptacle....which is the NEXT device....remove the PLAIN receptacle. Install a Eaton Wiring Devices or Leviton or Hubbell 15 A GFCI there. These are the ONLY brands rated and tested for INVERTERS....YES....a common one will drive you crazy. The incoming will be from the LINE SIDE of the upper one. You put BOTH SETS OF WIRES ON THE LINE. That GFCI will trip is there is a fault....but the LINE or leaving wire still has power. There are NO MORE "AT RISK - NEAR WATER" outlets. When it gets to J-Box 6 (B), there is a GFCI already there to protect that outlet and the next one. I advise, strongly, that you trace the circuits....and IF they are wired per the print....make the above changes to keep from having all sort of issues....while still maintaining GFCI protection where needed. Good Luck....Just GOT curious about your WHERE is the BOC and started chasing circuits and the NEC Violation of two GFCI's being daisy chained jumped out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted February 6, 2023 Author Share Posted February 6, 2023 I agree the schematic may have errors. my plan is not to follow this blindly but to use it as a guide and hopefully save some time in the tracing process. Frankly. I find the electrical system in at least this Monaco questionable. I wonder if it was laid out by a licensed electrician. ALL of the 120 vac outlets (except the AC, Norcold fridge and the bedroom TV) as all on two circuits through the inverter. From that one circuit appears to feed the back bath GFCI >Bed TV > Wall outlet over dresser > Half Bath outlet > Microwave. The other circuit goes to the ice maker > and ALL the curb AND street side outlets. Personally I think this is a terrible design. My plan is to take the 30 amp out from the Inverter (3000w) and feed a sub panel from which I would have 4 circuits to serve the various outlets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted February 7, 2023 Share Posted February 7, 2023 15 hours ago, 1nolaguy said: I agree the schematic may have errors. my plan is not to follow this blindly but to use it as a guide and hopefully save some time in the tracing process. Frankly. I find the electrical system in at least this Monaco questionable. I wonder if it was laid out by a licensed electrician. ALL of the 120 vac outlets (except the AC, Norcold fridge and the bedroom TV) as all on two circuits through the inverter. From that one circuit appears to feed the back bath GFCI >Bed TV > Wall outlet over dresser > Half Bath outlet > Microwave. The other circuit goes to the ice maker > and ALL the curb AND street side outlets. Personally I think this is a terrible design. My plan is to take the 30 amp out from the Inverter (3000w) and feed a sub panel from which I would have 4 circuits to serve the various outlets. When members make comments or recommendations, it is difficult, many times, to ascertain the experience or skill set of the individual that has the issue or is asking the question. Therefore, with the usual disclaimer, we have to keep it somewhat elementary and then give the rationale for the comments. In your case, not following your posts or understanding the issue, I felt it was necessary to make you aware of the GFCI issues and why the print would not be acceptable using NEC or UL code practices. Your comment about adding a sub panel might make sense. Couple items for "review". Pull some of the 2006 -2008 Dynasty prints and you will find a good example of how to do this. That also indicates that you have some electrical experience or skills that many don't have, but some learn as they deal with issues. My "Critique", and I have roughed in houses and helped licensed electricians upgrade older homes....as well as being the Director of Maintenance and having 15 or so electrician working for my Supervisors....and helped do some major plant upgrades.....is this. If there is NOT any issues with the MH, then I don't know what would actually be gained by doing that. There are two things that I WOULD do that are a piece of cake compared to trying to install a subpanel.... Swap the OUTPUTS of the Inverter. The Microwave will be OK on a 15 A line. Odds are....the wiring is 12-2/G throughout. Replace the Bathroom receptacle with a 20 A or in reality, 15 A GFCI (see the brands). Monaco used 20 A GFCI's....based on the "load rating". In your case, the Lavatory GFCI and the Bathroom GFCI do (will) not have any downstream load....so the terminals will carry the current and 12-2/G is rated for 20 Amps. This is the way that Monaco has done every MH that I have helped folks with from the late 90's on. Your Inverter PROBABLY has an internal ATS (like the Magnums) that will provide 30 Amps or 3600 Watts of power....but can only invert 2000 watts. The Magnums had, for diversity, TWO 20 Amp outputs.... But in reality, the output was the same as yours.....as they also only had 30 Amps in. Then your MH would be similar to literally THOUSANDS of Monacos.....and for all practical purposes, the SAME as mine. I have TWO 20 Amp outputs, but one is for the dedicated Microwave....so, If it was only 15A, it would easily power the Sharp... Mine is the Sharp R-1874F and it has a FLA of 13.2 Amps. SO....15 Amps will do fine....and then the other 20 Amps will be just like every other Monaco... My comments and advise....your MH....but the above is a proven system and the only issues folks usually have is overloading the circuits...which you are aware of is a NO-NO.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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