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Tail lights remain on


Dave F

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My ice maker failed to shut off so my entire floor flooded.  Water was running out of the fridge for nearly 6 days.  I pulled the rig (2004 Monaco Knight 34ft) to a downhill for it to drain, put in fans, and dried the floor as best I could.  Shortly after, maybe 6 hrs, I noticed that the tail lights remained on.  I could only shut them off by using the master battery shut off switch.  I can't solve the problem.  Please help:  If anyone has DWG#38061520, I think that shows tail light wiring diagram.

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I have a 2004 Monaco Knight and I have the wiring diagram books, which are helpful but really hard to use as the schematics don't tell you where anything is...and all the wires are white with little black markings on them to identify which wire is which.  I know from when I had to add a brake controller for a 7 wire plug to tow a trailer, the brake light control (on/off) is on the control board in the bay under the drivers side window.  I'm pretty sure it was a relay that controls the lights, I think the brake switch was a pressure switch on the master cylinder.  The odd thing compared to most vehicles (as I remember) its a normally closed circuit (12V on) and when you push on the pedal the circuit opens (12V off).  To get the brake controller to work I had to find the wire that came off the output of the relay so when the brake lights went on it activated the brake controller to engage the brakes.  So, with that said, your problem is probably on that board in the bay...and if you're lucky it may just dry out and go back to normal, or you may have a blown fuse.  If you still have problems I could probably send you a picture of that page.  Good Luck!

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Dave, as suggested get to the front run box if you have one. I had liquid go beneath the drivers panel and run down onto the transmission ECU. 

A visual there is important to start. 

This is a 2005 Ambassador set of diagrams and it might help. Open any fuse boxes below the large one in the drivers side compartment. If you see anything that eludes to brakes such as a relay, pull it out temporarily just to help isolate things, after you have used a test light to check each end of the little fuses first of course. Can't say why a blown fuse could cause an issue but all things are possible. 

You can get some sneaky paths with circuits backfeeding.

 

Ambassador wire diagrams 2005.pdf

Edited by myrontruex
adding file
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I KNOW I'll get a LOT of flak for this.  BUT, NASA developed a Water Displacement formula.  It took them 40 Revisions to get it right and stick with it.  It was eventually marketed by a company that called it WD-40 as in WATER DISPLACEMENT.  If you find a component or a switch that might have moisture or is "sticking", I (PERSONALLY....not all agree) use WD40 to clean out any residual water (heat works well....but you gotta be careful).  Then, I sometimes hit it with a quick shot of ELECTRCONIC (NOT electrical) cleaner and that flushes out all the "Kerosene" based residual of WD40.

Just my old shade tree experience....which I learned that Silicone is a NO-NO....and had to keep spraying a steering wheel lock ignition switch on a 70 Impala to get it to start....WD40 saved me...

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Once all of my employees had a can of WD40 and a roll of Scotch 33 at home we could keep a can and a roll in the shop and service vans. Bought the tape by the case of course but WD 40 seemed to evaporate and we were an Electronics repair facility. 

 

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