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aux air compressor for air leveling


grizzly
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I moved my Pressure Switch and installed it on top of the aux compressor tank with a T and pressure gauge.  Just another option.  I can check pressure of the level system, plus I think it provides a better system pressure control.  You can see the one way check in between the gauge and hose going to the aux compressor.

 

  

 

Aux Compressor Tank.jpg

Edited by Bill R
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Thanks Frank for the report. Very good. My compressor has the check valve coming out of the head of the compressor. None on the tanks. I am going to replace it. What is also different on mine is the off of the tee on the compressor after the check valve , one side goes to the pressure switch, which I will probably switch out also and the other side does not go to my front tanks. It goes into the frame and looks like it goes back to my rear tanks. Still have to investigate that. It is strange how mine seems to leak air when it gets cold. Maybe something is shrinking and then leaking. Also the Valid Company tech suggested that my compressor might just be wearing out because I think it is the original and he said that if moisture gets into it through the air filter it will wear out. That will be my last resort. Not easy to get to.  LOL. Thanks to everyone for all the good info and diagrams

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53 minutes ago, grizzly said:

Thanks Frank for the report. Very good. My compressor has the check valve coming out of the head of the compressor. None on the tanks. I am going to replace it. What is also different on mine is the off of the tee on the compressor after the check valve , one side goes to the pressure switch, which I will probably switch out also and the other side does not go to my front tanks. It goes into the frame and looks like it goes back to my rear tanks. Still have to investigate that. It is strange how mine seems to leak air when it gets cold. Maybe something is shrinking and then leaking. Also the Valid Company tech suggested that my compressor might just be wearing out because I think it is the original and he said that if moisture gets into it through the air filter it will wear out. That will be my last resort. Not easy to get to.  LOL. Thanks to everyone for all the good info and diagrams

The “cold” leak is typical..  most likely something as simple as a fitting.  Yes….when “something” gets colder and shrinks, it leaks more.

your system is different from mine.  I have a single tank upfront.  I lose both ends….but the MH stays level.

Keep soaping…..

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Got another question. I went under to tighten fittings on the t coming off the compressor and the 2 lines that come out can't be tightened. They look like they are push in fittings. They are plastic lines. Is that normal? If so how to you loosen or tighten them?And also the tee swivels also. No way to tighten it also.

Edited by grizzly
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Plastic lines and push in fitting are normal. If the leak is around the line, push it in, hold the outer ring with an open wrench and pull the line. Cut the deformed line end with a blade at 90 degree angle, clean and push back in. Many times this stops the leak, just make sure you have enough line to go into the fitting straight. If still leaks, best to replace the fitting but in a pinch, there is an oring that could be replaced too. Some replace with compression fittings, you got options.

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24 minutes ago, grizzly said:

Got another question. I went under to tighten fittings on the t coming off the compressor and the 2 lines that come out can't be tightened. They look like they are push in fittings. They are plastic lines. Is that normal? If so how to you loosen or tighten them?And also the tee swivels also. No way to tighten it also.

George,

you never have confirmed what brand and type pump you have. There are TWO, maybe more.  When you first posted this the comments were the same….gotta KNOW what you got.

Frank and I have a Valid PowerGear leveling system and a Valid supplied pump.  Look at his pictures.  If yours is not like that, then using his comments and then not being able to follow the steps is causing a lot of confusion.

We have many folks here that have installed different pumps for both the Valid and HWH leveling.  But, they understood which they had….how it worked….and what to purchase and how to plumb.

After an offline conversation with Frank, I finally understood that the 2009 Monaco Camelot owner that said Monaco goofed and did it wrong was totally OFF BASE. He had an internal compressor valving issue like Frank explained.  
 

It appears that he did a poor job of explaining to Valid or misinterpreted their comments and suggestions.  Adding an external valve did do a little, but the internal check valves (reeds or switches) needed to be replaced.  All he did was put on a check valve, but his compressor was compromised and very inefficient.

Back to basics….and maybe you said this….but I and others might have missed it.  What brand of pump do you have and is it the original OEM one….

Then you will get some good help.

thanks

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55 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Plastic lines and push in fitting are normal. If the leak is around the line, push it in, hold the outer ring with an open wrench and pull the line. Cut the deformed line end with a blade at 90 degree angle, clean and push back in. Many times this stops the leak, just make sure you have enough line to go into the fitting straight. If still leaks, best to replace the fitting but in a pinch, there is an oring that could be replaced too. Some replace with compression fittings, you got options.

Just an additional point in case you are not aware Grizzly. Be sure to dump all of your air before trying to remove any line and never get under the coach while the suspension is energized with air. 

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It is a Valid system and pump

So when you say hold the outer ring you mean keep it from being pushed in? So you are holding it out or do you hold that outer ring in while you pull the line out? Haven't really worked with these types of fittings only compression fittings. Thanks for the info guys.

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29 minutes ago, grizzly said:

It is a Valid system and pump

So when you say hold the outer ring you mean keep it from being pushed in? So you are holding it out or do you hold that outer ring in while you pull the line out? Haven't really worked with these types of fittings only compression fittings. Thanks for the info guys.

Pull your owners manual.  There is a nice and complete section explaining how they work and how to remove.  If you have the Valid pump, then, I’d pull it and read Frank’s comments and go from there.

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32 minutes ago, grizzly said:

It is a Valid system and pump

So when you say hold the outer ring you mean keep it from being pushed in? So you are holding it out or do you hold that outer ring in while you pull the line out? Haven't really worked with these types of fittings only compression fittings. Thanks for the info guys.

Push in on the outer ring and then pull on the hole while keeping pressure on the ring. Make sure the groove behind the ring is relatively clean so the outer ring can move in towards the fitting without obstruction. As mentioned, once you have the line out cut off about 1/4” and reinsert it. This will stop most fitting leaks. 

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33 minutes ago, grizzly said:

It is a Valid system and pump

So when you say hold the outer ring you mean keep it from being pushed in? So you are holding it out or do you hold that outer ring in while you pull the line out? Haven't really worked with these types of fittings only compression fittings. Thanks for the info guys.

To be effective in helping, please post a picture of the compressor as it is mounted on your coach.  If it is just a compressor motor and no air dryer associated with it, please look above the drive axle on the driver's side next to the frame rail for a small air tank like that one in the picture I posted a while back. 

Once we see a picture of exactly what compressor system you have we can provide better guidance.

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Guest Ray Davis
3 hours ago, Ivan K said:

there is an oring that could be replaced too.

Ivan,  are you saying the little o ring in the fitting can be replaced?   Not that I want to, but how can you do that?

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44 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

To be effective in helping, please post a picture of the compressor as it is mounted on your coach.  If it is just a compressor motor and no air dryer associated with it, please look above the drive axle on the driver's side next to the frame rail for a small air tank like that one in the picture I posted a while back. 

Once we see a picture of exactly what compressor system you have we can provide better guidance.

You think they installed a better compressor on the Signature, than they gave us?

Mine is the same compressor you have. No water separator, just a little screw-on foam air filter.

Edited by 96 EVO
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21 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Ivan,  are you saying the little o ring in the fitting can be replaced?   Not that I want to, but how can you do that?

Ray, yes, I have done it instead of waiting for a new one, with the line out of it, the ring with its 'fingers' can be pulled out with some effort and then you'd see an oring that seals the line that would go through it when inserted.

Just found this video for demonstration if you wanted to get an idea

 

Edited by Ivan K
Added a video link
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6 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

You think they installed a better compressor on the Signature, than they gave us?

Mine is the same compressor you have. No water separator, just a little screw-on foam air filter.

2007 was a transition year.  He said his compressor is mounted ahead of the drive axle like the older HWH system with an air dryer.  He also mention that he has an external check valve on the compressor. Until we see exactly the compressor he has we can't effectively help him.

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Guest Ray Davis
6 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Ray, yes, I have done it instead of waiting for a new one, with the line out of it, the ring with its 'fingers' can be pulled out with some effort and then you'd see an oring that seals the line that would go through it when inserted.

Thanks Ivan,  even an old geezer can learn.  Occasionally that is.  Might come in handy someday.

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9 minutes ago, grizzly said:

My compressor is mounted behind the front axle

Ok, thanks for the clarification.  Look at my previous post and clean the check valve inside your compressor head.  You also have a small air tank above the drive axle on the DS.  You actually have a power gear valid system.

BTW, details on how to remove and install airlines with pictures are in your owners manual.

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45 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

Ok, thanks for the clarification.  Look at my previous post and clean the check valve inside your compressor head.  You also have a small air tank above the drive axle on the DS.  You actually have a power gear valid system.

BTW, details on how to remove and install airlines with pictures are in your owners manual.

Frank, you changed no gaskets or 'O' rings?

Just cleaned things up and reinstalled?

Edited by 96 EVO
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6 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Frank, you changed no gaskets or 'O' rings?

Just cleaned things up and reinstalled?

Actually mine was still working just fine.   But I did wipe out the dirt.  I opened mine up just to see how they did the internal check valve.

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6 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Frank, you changed no gaskets or 'O' rings?

Just cleaned things up and reinstalled?

I don't believe I ever said it was by the rear drive axle. I did state the airline looks like it goes into frame and goes to bank air tank. Always have know it was in the front behind the axle. Sorry if I stated that. And yes it is a power gear valid system which I also thought I stated somewhere. No manual came with coach on that unfortunately

 

35 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Little round screw on air filter on the intake?

No a line plastic line coming off the compressor and then run up to by main air tank with a filter. I am thinking it was put there to keep it out of the moisture from road and junk.

13 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Frank, you changed no gaskets or 'O' rings?

Just cleaned things up and reinstalled?

I have a check valve on the output of the compressor before it goes into a tee. So there is also an internal check valve also?

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4 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

Actually mine was still working just fine.   But I did wipe out the dirt.  I opened mine up just to see how they did the internal check valve.

Cool!

I'm going to do the same when it warms up a bit.

After seeing yours, I'm 99% sure that's where my leak-by issues come from.

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