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Day/Night Blinds or DAY & NIGHT SHADES


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4 hours ago, Keamyinc said:

Everything is in excellent condition.

Not trying to be snarky, but if EVERYTHING was in excellent condition, you wouldn't be having this problem. That said, your blinds have lost their tension. Look behind the valance and you'll see cords attached to a small disk on each side of the blind. Unscrew the disks, re wrap the cords with a little more tension and try it out. If they still fall or drop, add another wrap or two around the disks and try it until you have the tension that's suitable to you. Don't over-tighten or you'll lose the tension more quickly and have to do it all over again.....Dennis

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Hi Dennis, thanks for the advise. I had confused topics when I made the comment about everything was in excellent condition as I had two separate conversations on the go. Thanks for pointing this out as I was confused myself. We are new rvers as of this week so as I have already found out I have sooooo much to learn.

 

Don

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8 minutes ago, Keamyinc said:

Hi Dennis, thanks for the advise. I had confused topics when I made the comment about everything was in excellent condition as I had two separate conversations on the go. Thanks for pointing this out as I was confused myself. We are new rvers as of this week so as I have already found out I have sooooo much to learn.

 

Don

It's a learning curve, Don. We've all been there. I learn new things every day and I've been doing this a loooong time....Dennis

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Tightening up the cord sounds like it will solve your problem.  The little plastic thimbles that the cord wraps around get brittle and I had a couple that cracked.  I did find them at several on line RV stores.   There are also kits to re-string the entire blind  if those strings ever break on you.

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For what it is worth, on my 2006 Windsor, it is a continuing issue.  I think over time everyone of those plastic spools will break.  Has anyone found a better spool that could be used, like metal or better plastic, that could be drilled or modified to use.   The other issue with us is the fold if you are not careful.  Does the MCD have this issue.   Lastly, WindsorBill, do you recall the online store where you found the spools?

Rich Cutler '06 Windsor

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I quit purchasing the plastic spools made for the shades. I decided to purchase sewing machine bobbins. Plus they have metal ones that you can buy which will never break.

Edited by Dr4Film
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Rich: The MCD shades are roll-up style and not the pleated ones. They have an auto device that enables you to just release and let go and they will roll-up slowly. You can get them in either Shade / Black-out / Shade with Black-out. If you are somewhat handy they are also fairly easy to install yourself. We have the Shade with Black-out on ours and glad we switched. Let me know if you would like me to take a couple of photos so you can see what I am talking about.

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28 minutes ago, jrtrades1 said:

For what it is worth, on my 2006 Windsor, it is a continuing issue.  I think over time everyone of those plastic spools will break.  Has anyone found a better spool that could be used, like metal or better plastic, that could be drilled or modified to use.   The other issue with us is the fold if you are not careful.  Does the MCD have this issue.   Lastly, WindsorBill, do you recall the online store where you found the spools?

Rich Cutler '06 Windsor

Cord Retainers

Dennis

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46 minutes ago, jrtrades1 said:

For what it is worth, on my 2006 Windsor, it is a continuing issue.  I think over time everyone of those plastic spools will break.  Has anyone found a better spool that could be used, like metal or better plastic, that could be drilled or modified to use.   The other issue with us is the fold if you are not careful.  Does the MCD have this issue.   Lastly, WindsorBill, do you recall the online store where you found the spools?

Rich Cutler '06 Windsor

Sorry, no I don't recall.  It may have been NW Supply in Bend Oregon.  It's been a few years.

We're changing out all the blinds to the roll up version. No strings and a very clean look, IMO.   We're already changed out the cockpit/windshield area.  I went with AutoMotion, but there are others such as MCD.  Now getting ready to change out the rest of the coach.    Once that's done, I'll have the old ones that I'd be happy to give you.  May be a few months, however.

Edited by windsorbill06
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

This is an update, as well as....GROAN....., the need to FIX a broken or malfunctioning shade.  I had searched here and the key word SHADE is not in the title.  NOT a criticism, but I will get that corrected so that SHADE is searchable.  

We have had the plastic hubs or cord retainer break in the past.  Usually, I would catch it and replace it.  Here is sort of the Takeaways that I have learned....and this is specific to our Camelot....but I think it might help others.

  • Our Camelot has the shades attached with "screws".  I have looked at the DiCor video, which is great.  I have also ordered and read the United Shade repair kit.  United Shade 650000 Pleated Shade Repair Kit , White.  This is the kit featured in the video. There are probably a LOT more and maybe better videos and repair kits out there, but this was the quick and most convenient.  I LEARNED A LOT....
  • UNFORTUNATELY, the bean counters prevailed....at least on the Camelot.  The CLIPS are not there, so getting the shade out is a real PITA.  One side fell down.  IF I had been MORE knowledgeable....and I HOPE THIS HELPS FOLKS OUT....then I would have been more diligent in finding the errant end.  If you look at the video there is not a clear explanation....so let me offer this.  The strings are ALL connected, whether they are 2 or 4 and whether they are Day or Night or Day/Night.  I have OFTEN WONDERED how they worked. http://www.unitedshade.com/images/shared/uploads/files/Shade Re-Stringing Instructions.pdf
  • The above instructions are what is on their website, but the kit has a MUCH MORE DETAILED method as to actually how to RESTRING and also set the CRITICAL RETRACTED CORD distance or length.  IF you read the above, it makes sense. 
  • WHAT I GOT and I THINK is important.  If you replace a retainer or spool, and Richard Smith's note about using metal is GREAT, then bear this in mind.  If you have to cut off a portion of the cord (I did once as the knot slipped and was frayed), you MUST do the same to the OTHER SIDE.  Put another way....I am going to replace BOTH spools on the broken one.  THE SHADE STRINGING IS OK. BUT, the two cords are NOT installed properly.  The United kit has the ORIGINAL....a spool with two holes.  What needs to be done is that the KNOT is wrapped around the HUB or the center section. Mine are just tied off on the flange or side of the spool.  SO, I will replace each spool.  I will tie the two ends together.  I will then then do another "WRAP" so that the KNOT is on TOP.  That will shorten the strings....maybe 1/2" or so.....THIS IS CRITICAL.....DO THIS ON BOTH SIDES....
  • NOW....when you start to screw back in the spool, you will probably put TOO much tension on the strings.  Since you shortened the strings by say, 1/2". MOVE or attach the spool about 1/2" HIGHER.  The shade's spools MUST BE ATTACHED AT THE SAME HEIGHT (Distance DOWN) from the top of the valence....otherwise, they will be CROOKED.  I did NOT (silly me) realized that the Spools are the STOPS....so no matter how much tension or lack of tension, the ends of the shades are going to stop at the spool.  THUS, when I replaced one spool and cut off a smidge, that shade is NOT crooked.  I will correct that.  It is IMPORTANT TO KNOW THIS....and it is NOT very clear...at least to me.....

OK....that is the basics of what I learned.  The task of restringing is really quite simple.  There is also a link in the posts about how to clean the PLASTIC ONES....not the paper ones.  That MAY be a future job....but NOT NOW.  OK....HERE IS REAL PROBLEM WITH THE SHADES....THANKS MONACO!!

  • My Camelot shades have either two or three screws right through the SHADE TOP RAIL.  There are NO clips to "pry off".  CHEAP.  And the risk of nicking the shade cord is higher.  BUT, that is MINOR compared to getting the blankety-blank things DOWN....
  • The entire VALANCE must come down.  HERE is what I LEARNED.  There are THREE (long ones) screws in the top portion of the valance.  What I finally did was open a window and move the screen out of the way and look up.  The OEM way that Monaco put my valances up were to put the screws on the OUTSIDE or the back side of the valance header.  You retract the shade or partially.  Stick your head OUT the window...  Use a flashlight and shine up into the corner.  On the OUTSIDE (the BODY SIDE or the back of the shade rail....if you are looking from the inside), you should see the corner.  If it is a long shade (4 string), then one in the center...which you can see from your "perched" position.  I used a flexible shaft with a #2 Square Bit driver and a drill.  A long screwdriver might work. I will use a straight 8" 1/4" socket extension and socket and bit when I reinstall.  The amount of hand torque that was required was almost past my limits....
  • I pulled out the one from the open window....for practice.  Then the center.  At that time, I had my technique and I pulled down the one of the fixed side.  THEN, with my DW holding, I pulled the two screws off the bottom "double washer" 90 deg bracket....BINGO, the Valance is down.
  • THAT IS WHEN I LUCKED OUT and saw the double knotted cord on the end. Had I been KNOWLEDGEABLE, I would have fished that out and NOT have had to pull down the valance.
  • SIDE NOTE....  I had ONE valance that is totally different....and I KNOW WHY.  I had a shop install my res refer. They popped out a living room window.  BINGO, they thought that Monaco was FULL OF IT.  They put the valance back in, but "MODIFIED" the install.....
  • This is what they did.  AND some of it doesn't make sense...but it works.  They put a spacer and lowered the shade about 3/4" from the top of the valence.  You can feel the gap.  WHY...haven't a clue....but it is the ONLY ONE that way in the entire MH...and the ONLY window with a shade ever removed.
  • They MUST have moved the shade a bit, towards the outside....maybe they put in wood block spacers.  BUT, the three screws on the valence header are on the INSIDE...not the back or the outside.  THEN IT GETS TOTALLY confusing.  I THINK THIS IS HOW THEY DID IT....
  • There are 2 screws on each end of the valence header that are HORIZONTAL.  These secure the side rails or the wooden sides going down. I THINK they pulled off the side rails or wood for access.  THEN, they pulled off the top piece.  
  • THEN, they moved the shade back or towards the outside....and spaced it and remounted it. THEN They screwed in the three screws or moved them from the outside to the inside....but THEN.....they added BRACKETS.
  • They put in THREE of the Double Washer Brackets.  These are up and under and out of sight.  I looks like they kept the middle piece OFF....and then put on the side pieces... THEN they used the double washer brackets and secured the horizontal piece (outer trim) to the TOP....using the double washer brackets.  HAVE NO IDEA....but that is how it done....

Bottom line, like MOST things (have you ever greased the internal or the upper U-Joint on the steering column....and NOT taken off the sides....just left them screwed into the firewall and pulled the 4 screws that are easy to get to).....This takes a bit of persistence and a bit of "contortionism", but it IS doable.  I am 77 and got it down and will bet it back up...a BIT EASIER, I HOPE....

Have fun....

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  • Tom Cherry changed the title to Day/Night Blinds or DAY & NIGHT SHADES

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